Rust Help: 3RENSHO
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Rust Help: 3RENSHO
Hi guys,
As you can see, rust has formed in an area of the bottom bracket where paint is sometimes missed or thinnest. The previous owner didn't address the issue, but I need to---carefully and correctly.
Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks!
As you can see, rust has formed in an area of the bottom bracket where paint is sometimes missed or thinnest. The previous owner didn't address the issue, but I need to---carefully and correctly.
- A Dremel tool, which I do not own, seems like it'd be difficult to get in there without ruining the adjacent paint.
- I was thinking of taping off the area best I can, then either Evapo-rust or Rust-oleum to treat the rusted crease. The former has appeal because it says it doesn't affect the paint. However, the affected area needs to be soaked with it. The latter is a spray, turns the surface black, and acts as a primer as well. Has anyone had success with these products or would suggest alternatives?
- I still need a lacquer touch up paint. With some mixing I hope (fingers crossed) for a close match.
Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks!
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here's how i would tackle it - to avoid mechanical methods that would struggle with access:
1. degrease thoroughly
2. Naval Jelly by brush (or Oxalic acid soak), until back to bare metal - this is your Evapo Rust step
3. Rust Converter applied *very* specifically, to halt further corrosion - this is your Rustoleum product, but it messes paint so apply with stylus of some sort
4. Touch-up colour to make it less noticeable
1. degrease thoroughly
2. Naval Jelly by brush (or Oxalic acid soak), until back to bare metal - this is your Evapo Rust step
3. Rust Converter applied *very* specifically, to halt further corrosion - this is your Rustoleum product, but it messes paint so apply with stylus of some sort
4. Touch-up colour to make it less noticeable
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OA is your friend herel Gets rid of the rust without paint damage.
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Nice bike...I would use evapo rust/OA as others have mentioned. if you are not disassembling the BB try building a small dam with kids clay to keep the liquid where you want it.
I use POR-15 clear because it flows better than anything I have found so you could use a thin straw to draw the solution into and simply place it on one end and release...gravity will do the rest. It flows like water no brushing, but it is pricey.
Best, Ben
Cures like a ceramic coating....hard as nails
I use POR-15 clear because it flows better than anything I have found so you could use a thin straw to draw the solution into and simply place it on one end and release...gravity will do the rest. It flows like water no brushing, but it is pricey.
Best, Ben
Cures like a ceramic coating....hard as nails
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Tape the area off carefully, no one but yourself will ever notice if the paint shade is off just a bit. Heck, I had to look twice to see the rusted area.
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You might actually be able to find a nail polish (lacquer) in that shade, you'll be surprised what's available in "pearl" and even metallic colors these days. But you'll want to shop in person with something like a fork in hand to make the 1:1 comparison in same light. At a shop with a huge range of nail polish...and expect to get "some looks". I'd agree with most of the advice already shared but OA is down low on my list of acid rust removers "paint friendly" or not. I would force some cotton wadding into the cleaned crease and eye-dropper in something like Rust Mort (Phosphoric acid blend) and let it alone until rust is fully neutralized. You could probably do same with Evapo-rust which I prefer just slightly over OA but find it works very slowly. YMMV
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Does evaporust still come as a gel? Seems like that would be a good choice here.
Edit: From a google search just now:
Edit: From a google search just now:
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Barkeepers friend. If you do a search you should find a few threads
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a truly economical choice (you can get a big carton of this at Home Despot for under $3) and since it's a "cleanser" you can mix a paste that will "sort of" stay in place. But active ingredient is (diluted) OA.
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In my limited experience, the gel is disappointing. It tends to dry out (and stop working) before it gets the job done. If you kind find a way to keep the gel moist (I have not had a chance to experiment with how to do that), it might work better.
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As long as it is paint safe....I would submerge that entire bottom bracket area in the liquid version of Evapo Rust, then touch up the paint.
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I would be leery of the wrap with gel sticking to or hurting the paint, I use the gel and continue to wet it with fresh gel throughout the process.
The paint on this looks pretty good so I would proceed with caution at any rate.
The paint on this looks pretty good so I would proceed with caution at any rate.
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@DCilliams
A good auto body paint supplier can match the paint for this, some will do touch up amount or a can of spray.
My last one was a spray can for $38 so a bit spendy but parts store touch up is $17-$20 that you still have to mix to match so....
I would try the gel for the rust and reapply to keep it wet, still time consuming but should get you most of the way there, then if you have to dig in for the last of it may be easier to finish with it mostly done already.
A good auto body paint supplier can match the paint for this, some will do touch up amount or a can of spray.
My last one was a spray can for $38 so a bit spendy but parts store touch up is $17-$20 that you still have to mix to match so....
I would try the gel for the rust and reapply to keep it wet, still time consuming but should get you most of the way there, then if you have to dig in for the last of it may be easier to finish with it mostly done already.
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If it were mine:
1. Pull the crank and bottom bracket.
2. Fill a plastic tub with oxalic acid (sold as wood bleach - I buy Savorgram brand at Ace Hardware. Mix about 1-1.5 tbs. per gallon).
3. soak just the bottom bracket area up to affected area (generally about 24 hours, but check on it periodically)
3. Neutralize with baking soda.
4. Clean and dry.
5. Lightly sand edges of de-rusted area so touch up blends in with original pain smoothly. Some edges may flake off where the rust penetrated under the paint.
6. Touch up paint with brush, wet sand, touch up, and repeat until area is matched.
That's such a nice frame I might invest in a small bottle of automotive touch up paint. Most auto paint stores will match paint and then supply you with a spray can or small bottle of liquid. I find the liquid bottles dry out, but the can you can use the aerosol cans to spray into a container and then use with a brush.
1. Pull the crank and bottom bracket.
2. Fill a plastic tub with oxalic acid (sold as wood bleach - I buy Savorgram brand at Ace Hardware. Mix about 1-1.5 tbs. per gallon).
3. soak just the bottom bracket area up to affected area (generally about 24 hours, but check on it periodically)
3. Neutralize with baking soda.
4. Clean and dry.
5. Lightly sand edges of de-rusted area so touch up blends in with original pain smoothly. Some edges may flake off where the rust penetrated under the paint.
6. Touch up paint with brush, wet sand, touch up, and repeat until area is matched.
That's such a nice frame I might invest in a small bottle of automotive touch up paint. Most auto paint stores will match paint and then supply you with a spray can or small bottle of liquid. I find the liquid bottles dry out, but the can you can use the aerosol cans to spray into a container and then use with a brush.
Last edited by gaucho777; 01-22-21 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Tube corrected to tub; edited for clarification on spray can vs. bottle
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@DCilliams
A good auto body paint supplier can match the paint for this, some will do touch up amount or a can of spray.
My last one was a spray can for $38 so a bit spendy but parts store touch up is $17-$20 that you still have to mix to match so....
I would try the gel for the rust and reapply to keep it wet, still time consuming but should get you most of the way there, then if you have to dig in for the last of it may be easier to finish with it mostly done already.
A good auto body paint supplier can match the paint for this, some will do touch up amount or a can of spray.
My last one was a spray can for $38 so a bit spendy but parts store touch up is $17-$20 that you still have to mix to match so....
I would try the gel for the rust and reapply to keep it wet, still time consuming but should get you most of the way there, then if you have to dig in for the last of it may be easier to finish with it mostly done already.
Otherwise I would follow @gaucho777's procedure.
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That location is essentially hidden. I'm guessing not one of us would notice it unless the OP pointed it out. If this were a show bike, sure, match exact, otherwise close enough would be close enough, IMHO.
Otherwise I would follow @gaucho777's procedure.
Otherwise I would follow @gaucho777's procedure.
@gaucho777 also advocate's the auto touchup paint match in his last sentence as well so.....
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Have used it when stripping paint on bikes, not for rust removal. Concept is the same, just be cautious in application of the OA or other chemical.
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Wow, that's in a tough spot to get at. Two items come to mind, both of which I've bought at hobby shops for my wife's electric train layout:
(A) applicators that look like Q-Tips, except the ends are much firmer and come to a point. You could target the exact spot with whatever anti-rust product is chosen, perhaps.
(B) needle oiler. Same thing on targeting.
(A) applicators that look like Q-Tips, except the ends are much firmer and come to a point. You could target the exact spot with whatever anti-rust product is chosen, perhaps.
(B) needle oiler. Same thing on targeting.
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Yes! (pics here)
And to the OP DCilliams : As a religious user and evangelist of Evaporust, I think an OA soak is your best course of action here. Naval jelly would be my 2nd pick and the fastest possible option, but trying to get the jelly out of that tight spot and neutralize it may prove challenging. Be careful if you topcoat with POR-15, Rust Bullet or similar products. That stuff sticks to skin bigtime, like superglue. Tape any areas you don't want it to get on.
And to the OP DCilliams : As a religious user and evangelist of Evaporust, I think an OA soak is your best course of action here. Naval jelly would be my 2nd pick and the fastest possible option, but trying to get the jelly out of that tight spot and neutralize it may prove challenging. Be careful if you topcoat with POR-15, Rust Bullet or similar products. That stuff sticks to skin bigtime, like superglue. Tape any areas you don't want it to get on.
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Last edited by francophile; 01-22-21 at 02:10 PM.
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Guys - thank you for the great feedback. Work has been crazy otherwise I would have had some follow-up questions. I'll absorb these recommendations. I live in Washington, DC so i'll see if they're any good auto body paint suppliers that could match the paint. To start, I may try building a little dam with clay and put evapo rust in there with a medicine dropper. I definitely want to get this right.
gaucho777 What do you mean "neutralize with baking soda"? Is this a step necessary with evapo-rust as well? merziac Here's a quick pic of the bike in question
gaucho777 What do you mean "neutralize with baking soda"? Is this a step necessary with evapo-rust as well? merziac Here's a quick pic of the bike in question
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francophile I just saw your Pinarello thread. Why do you recommend OA over evapo in this situation? Is it because that area is so difficult to access? Btw - did the evaporust have any affect on the paint? I know the bottle says it doesn't but wasn't sure how true that was.
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To me that is the holy grail model color for a 3rensho! Beautiful.
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