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What level of bad is this...?

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What level of bad is this...?

Old 02-04-21, 08:56 PM
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jdawginsc 
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What level of bad is this...?

So, I got this pile of stuff locally...not sure why it intrigued me...it wasn’t that great a deal.... anyhow,

...what level of confidence would you have in building this frame into something useful? I am sure at some level I know it would be silly to ride this thing...



A bit scruffy...is this carbon or the alloy?

How did this inner fork get rug burn?

More rub burn...did someone use 48s or something?

Scruffy fork

Head tube...cool looking. Might be the only functional part...not. Cool cable route though...

Dramatic down view of the stays...

Looks like carbon fiber
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Old 02-04-21, 10:32 PM
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Trek's bonded carbon models seem to linger on CL locally. I don't think building it would be silly at all, if you don't have concerns about the fork. The 2100 was the 'entry' level bonded frame, with a 2200 and 2300 rounding out the line up. I once had half an inclination to grab one with the green lugs and stays to use for fixed/single speed, until I realized that this bike was built with vertical dropouts.

I've seen griping about harsh rides, due to the vibration dampening carbon being used in the exact wrong places to do any dampening, but I have no experience with it myself.

It should make a fine rider with a 7 or 8 speed wheelset, if you have the parts.

According to vintage trek, this could be a 1993 2100, and was equipped with Shimano 105.

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Old 02-04-21, 10:35 PM
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Also, these pictures remind me of when my kids were toddlers and they wanted to show me something small, so they'd shove it up my nose to show me.
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Old 02-04-21, 10:43 PM
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I wouldn't trust that fork. Bit too much tire rub. Clean the frame and check for delamination between the carbon and the aluminum joints. I thought I saw some at the top of the seat tube. Also check closely around that headtube where the housing goes in. If the frame looks good, replace the fork and ride to failure. Don't forget to post whole-bike pictures!
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Old 02-04-21, 10:48 PM
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One of the strongest, best-built bonded carbon frames ever made. Joint failures on bonded Treks are almost unheard of. Good score. As long as there's no actual damage, build it up and ride it 'till it dies.

--Shannon

PS: The clear-coat bubbly - flakey thing is quite common on these. It's not a problem, just ugly. But, then, they're kinda ugly bikes anyway, so who cares... they ride nice.
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Old 02-04-21, 11:00 PM
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IIRC the 2100s (and their cousins in the Giant Cadex and Specialized Allez Epic) were popular enough that we'd probably hear about it if they had a spate of bonding failures.
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Old 02-04-21, 11:31 PM
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Those photos give me a headache.
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Old 02-05-21, 12:01 AM
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Yeah, I had a Trek 2100 and I want to find another one that's actually my size to see if it's a as good as I remembered.

At 19 lbs, it was the lightest bike I ever owned. I'm sure I could get that down a bit, with parts I've accumulated since then.

Those photos remind me of the one time I took acid. It didn't go that well.
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Old 02-05-21, 08:15 AM
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Yeah, the fork and scruffy delamination are what give me pause. I was going to paint the carbon bits, possibly replace the fork and build it up as a fixie/1Xsomething for part of my student bike give away program with upright bars. Wondering if it would be safe.
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Old 02-05-21, 08:30 AM
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Trainer (indoor) bike
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Old 02-05-21, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Yeah, the fork and scruffy delamination are what give me pause. I was going to paint the carbon bits, possibly replace the fork and build it up as a fixie/1Xsomething for part of my student bike give away program with upright bars. Wondering if it would be safe.
1x, maybe. Fixed? Not unless you like expensive solutions or hacks like the magic ratio. Painting? The clear coat, bare carbon tubes are kind of the point for this series. Moving from drop bars would mean more outlay for DT shifter boss cable stops. (Does anyone use flat bars and DT shifters?)

The fork is the biggest concern. If you use a straight edge or a flexible ruler, how deep are the rub marks?
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Old 02-05-21, 11:04 AM
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My answer would be biased, for I have an instinctive mistrust of carbon.
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Old 02-05-21, 12:10 PM
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looks fine to me, both the fork and other bits. If it were a personal ride, I'd swap the fork to 1" carbon for a smoother ride. If you're going to turn it into a singlespeed and flip it, leave the fork as-is. Overall I wouldn't put a lot of effort into it, as I don't have a high opinion of the ride quality of early carbon-tubed, lugged bikes.
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Old 02-05-21, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Catnap View Post
looks fine to me, both the fork and other bits. If it were a personal ride, I'd swap the fork to 1" carbon for a smoother ride. If you're going to turn it into a singlespeed and flip it, leave the fork as-is. Overall I wouldn't put a lot of effort into it, as I don't have a high opinion of the ride quality of early carbon-tubed, lugged bikes.
I've been amassing cheap bikes to give away to students at my school, high poverty, inner city, as incentives/rewards for doing their best.

just picked up another...
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Old 02-05-21, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Reynolds View Post
My answer would be biased, for I have an instinctive mistrust of carbon.
i have none myself but if the consensus was that they are pretty safe for a student I’d build one up as a prize for them.
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Old 02-05-21, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam View Post
1x, maybe. Fixed? Not unless you like expensive solutions or hacks like the magic ratio. Painting? The clear coat, bare carbon tubes are kind of the point for this series. Moving from drop bars would mean more outlay for DT shifter boss cable stops. (Does anyone use flat bars and DT shifters?)

The fork is the biggest concern. If you use a straight edge or a flexible ruler, how deep are the rub marks?
I’ll have to check that...
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