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What do you do on a catch and release bike?

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What do you do on a catch and release bike?

Old 03-03-21, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
Ha! I have to laugh at myself. I'd spend four hours on the paint finish alone. But I like perfection. A lot.
If it's my bike, it's all about dabbing carefully mixed nail polish on tiny scratches with a toothpick. Catch and release, not so much.
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Old 03-03-21, 09:48 PM
  #27  
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I have a similar Peugeot Course with decent crank, wheels and derailleurs but a frameset that is less than impressive. It's kind of a toss up whether or not to keep it complete or part it out. It might be easier to sell as a complete bike and then you don't have any left over parts lingering around. I have already disassembled and cleaned everything on my Course but have not reassembled. I'm thinking about moving the wheels and derailleurs to a Peugeot mixte and then selling the left over crank and frame. I have accumulated plenty of consumables for rebuilds. I consider it an expense but most of my flips can be done for about $25-$50 plus the expense of the bike in question.
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Old 03-04-21, 09:04 AM
  #28  
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I avoid taking the DKO route, most of my flips or C&R get some or all of the following treatment:
.
  • New cables, housings and ends ($8-12 Schwinn kit found on AMZN)
  • Wire brush, slow cook (crock pot) the chain, dry, re-lube
  • Virtually always new brake pads, typically Jagwire's "Basic" cross-cut (40pc card is $33, ~$1.50/caliper)
  • Re-pack: Hubs, BB, headset
  • Ultrasonic clean the mechs and re-lube, degrease crank, ultrasonic the brake calipers
  • Deep clean frame, wheels, freewheel
  • Test/patch tubes if necessary
  • Tune and test ride
  • Optional, depending on condition: Tires, tape, swap seat, either swap or de-gunkify pedals
However, sometimes I skip steps based on what I find. Like, if I pop off the adjustable cup, one of the wheel cones, or the adjustable top race and find the grease is in great shape, I button it back up and adjust it - no point in redoing what's already done. If the tires and tape are un-cracked, un-torn, or clean-able, I'll do what I can to refresh and move on. If the cable housings are in good condition and no signs of rust on the cables, I'm not about to do the extra work, just tune and move on.

Each bike is its own unique story. My goal is to get it in and out the door again with less than $50 in parts. I can usually hit that target by keeping tires I bought previously in bulk when deals pop up for $10/ea or less per tire, plus a sizeable stash of spare parts, good used tires, and other rubber/consumable goods I've acquired over the years, whether new or used.
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Old 03-04-21, 10:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bikemig
By catch and release, I simply mean that I try to sell it for what I paid for it plus the price of parts. I figure catch and release is different than flipping because I'm not trying to make any money on it but just to find a new home for the bike. Nothing wrong with flipping but it's not what I do with a bike like this. I like old Peugeots and I wanted to give it a 2d life.

So no I won't sell a bike with issues and I won't sell a bike I haven't fixed up to be safe to ride. The question I had is how much work people put into bikes when you know it's not a keeper.
I'm going to tenaciously cling to my personal use of the terminology. I have collected plenty of bikes, after having convincing my self that the bike will be easily passed along even if I put no extra energy into. So the present situation is: have caught, could release. This allows me to avoid stress from the sunk cost fallacy.
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Old 03-04-21, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bark_eater
I'm going to tenaciously cling to my personal use of the terminology. I have collected plenty of bikes, after having convincing my self that the bike will be easily passed along even if I put no extra energy into. So the present situation is: have caught, could release. This allows me to avoid stress from the sunk cost fallacy.
I'm not arguing with you over the term, . I actually think your definition is likely closer to how most people think of the term. I was simply explaining what I meant by the term.
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Old 03-04-21, 02:46 PM
  #31  
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Apparently I missed the other recent thread.

For me, I may or may not spend time cleaning the bike depending upon how dirty/greasy it is and what it is. Some bikes I will get down to toothbrush clean, others just get wiped down with a rag.

Basically the bottom line is to get the bike functional and make it safe to ride. Beyond that it all depends upon how much I have into the bike, what the local market is currently like, how desirable or easy to sell the bike is in the local market, and if I won't mind keeping it awhile if it doesn't sell.

Some bikes get posted for sale and then end up getting salvaged for parts if the complete bike doesn't sell.

Some bikes end up as parts bikes and the parts get several other bikes back on the road (often parts go to repair grandkid bikes).

Some bikes do get the full dismantle and clean and re-lube, and new cables and chain, sometimes new derailleur pulleys, new bearings, new tires and tubes, new bar tape. It really depends upon the bike and market value.

This is a hobby for me, not a business, some years I don't sell any bikes, some years I do, and usually I'm either just slowly upgrading my own stable of bikes or working my way towards something I don't currently have or do currently want. The past several years I've been scaling back and reducing the number of bikes I have and reducing redundancy.
And sometimes something comes along and I end up with redundancy again (like happened recently, oops).
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Old 03-04-21, 03:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Do you have a source for cheap or inexpensive 27 inch tires?
Kenda K40 is a vintage-looking gumwall that's usually easy to find, for between $12-15.
Sometimes you can find Duro or CSTs for less than$10, but it's usually for the funny color"fixie" tires
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