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Suntour Superbe long reach brakes?

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Suntour Superbe long reach brakes?

Old 03-12-21, 06:44 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by pcb View Post
4. Sorry, I haven't used the BDop/Aican shoe droppers, can't help with feedback there.
I don't know who Aican is, but our BDop Offset Holders are our design. We own the tooling.

FYI - if you can't find another solution, our design adds 7mmm of reach and come in Silver or Black.
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Old 03-12-21, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina View Post
I don't know who Aican is, but our BDop Offset Holders are our design. We own the tooling.

FYI - if you can't find another solution, our design adds 7mmm of reach and come in Silver or Black.
Thanks for checking in Bob. Looks like that's the option the owner wants to go with,
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Old 03-13-21, 09:11 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by sovende View Post
Exactly the concept that I was seeing in my mind . They do seem a bit spendy tho !
They are.

The problem is that they are actually expensive for us to make due to how many machining steps are involved. Also, when we make them, we need to make A LOT so it is a considerable investment, each time. The price is a reflection of those factors.

That was part of the reason we decided to offer the pads as an inexpensive add-on. As a package, we hoped that it would be a better overall value. We only did that this year so time will tell.
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Old 03-14-21, 10:46 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina View Post
They are.

The problem is that they are actually expensive for us to make due to how many machining steps are involved. Also, when we make them, we need to make A LOT so it is a considerable investment, each time. The price is a reflection of those factors.

That was part of the reason we decided to offer the pads as an inexpensive add-on. As a package, we hoped that it would be a better overall value. We only did that this year so time will tell.
I'm not saying that you are wrong about the pricing, just that it is more that I'd be willing to pay to fix the situation presented by the OP if it was for a bike that I was going to keep and ride. I agree that specialty items DO require extra time, effort and expense to design and manufacture. As a business venture, the bottom line is ALWAYS a consideration. I'm sure that demand for a product is a major concern too! For an item with known demand, a manufacturer can take advantage of "economy of scale" and get a lower "per each" cost. I'm guessing that the demand for brake reach extenders is quite variable and impossible to predict. I applaud you for even taking the time to design and the effort to actually make your product. Please don't take offense that I thought that your product was "spendy". I should have said "a bit spendy for me" .
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Old 03-14-21, 02:15 PM
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+1 for bdop offset holders and pads. I've used them on a few bikes and am very happy.

These are quite a bit cheaper though, but don't look to be as robust -which I kinda think you want in this application?
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32994515574.html
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Old 03-19-21, 01:28 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina View Post
I don't know who Aican is, but our BDop Offset Holders are our design. We own the tooling.

FYI - if you can't find another solution, our design adds 7mmm of reach and come in Silver or Black.
Well, the Bdop pads arrived today. Talk about rapid sevice.
Anyway, they actually provide enough drop to use the 700c wheels that were originally planned for this build, so I think the owner will be pleased about that.
I had to file flats on a 6mm washer to fit in the recess where the tire guide previously mounted.



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Old 03-19-21, 01:41 PM
  #57  
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This looks like a very nice solution to your dilemma of not having a brake with a long enough reach. It looks better and provides more upper clearance than a drop bolt. I'm happy for this subject thread because I did not know that BDop extension brake pad holders existed. I can see how I will like to use them with better brakes than when the Tektro 559 or 359 were what I thought was my best side pull brake option.
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Old 03-19-21, 03:24 PM
  #58  
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I was going to suggest Sheldon's dropped-bolt approach, mainly because it can restore the pads closer to the tops of the slots and thus increase braking leverage quite significantly.

It's a good option for where a short-arm caliper might be already at hand, and the installation might look great if some aesthetic consideration is applied to making the hardware, (plates and bolt head).
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Old 03-20-21, 02:09 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by doug fattic View Post
this looks like a very nice solution to your dilemma of not having a brake with a long enough reach. It looks better and provides more upper clearance than a drop bolt. I'm happy for this subject thread because i did not know that bdop extension brake pad holders existed. I can see how i will like to use them with better brakes than when the tektro 559 or 359 were what i thought was my best side pull brake option.
+1
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Old 03-24-21, 02:34 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Doug Fattic View Post
I'm going to agree with Germany_chris and suggest filing the slot a bit longer. Of course I am a frame builder that knows how to file with the big variety of files on my pegboard. If done right, it won't hurt the brakes and the slot extension will be hidden under the brake blocks. There were very few decent side pull brakes that had a reach longer than 57mm. Find a 6" American pattern round file that should be about the same diameter as the brake shoe slot. Put the file through both slots so it is always in the right position. You are probably not filing both slots at the same time but rather putting downward force on one slot while the other slot keeps the file in the right position. You might ever so slightly put a little side pressure to make sure the width is enough. If you work carefully it will turn out fine.
That looks like a very detailed explanation, and I am embarking on exactly this, I think, on a Superbe (frame originally had Campy... Suntour is shorter? Who knew?) I was contemplating trying a dremel, I have a selection to grinding stones and "burrs", everything seems to load up so much when filing/grinding aluminum... and one slip might make a real mess of it.

This means going to the dreaded Home Depot I've been trying to stay out of for 12 months, and their inventory "control" means that usually half the pegboard hooks are empty but unsure I get get the correct diameter via online. Likely smart to take the digital micrometer to HD with me. All for a couple of millimeters.

EDIT: Well, the micrometer says the slot is 1/4". HD has one in stock 1/4" x 6" locally, and/or Amazon has one that's 1/4" round x 8", but "chainsaw" in description. Not sure what the distinction is there.
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Old 03-25-21, 10:43 AM
  #61  
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Well, I think I got away with it.

No idea what an American Pattern file is, and I was frustrated when the 1/4"x6" round file that was supposed to be in stock at HD was not there (I am a retired Purchasing and Inventory Control professional, so this drives me crazy). I did find a three-piece set of files and the round one looked OK, when I compared it to a 1/4-20 bolt on the next aisle. Once home, the micrometer said 15/64", perhaps a "nominal" 1/4"? The diameter for the bolt for the brake pad is also 15/64".

So I sat the caliper down near the edge of a work surface, as vertical as I could, and started filing and checking progress often. Oddly, I found myself cutting faster on the caliper arm furthest from me, not the closest -- so I reversed the caliper often (does Park make a caliper vise? ) Eventually, I cut the "meat" at the bottom of the caliper arm below the slot from originally 5mm to about 1.8mm on both sides. Also, checked to make sure the guide, when in the groove in the back of each arm, left the bolt hole centered int he slot and so the bolt went all the way to the bottom of the now-elongated slot.

Hey, for my application, it is enough, the pad sits enough below the rim/tire meeting point that I am comfortable, if not quite with the pads centered on the braking surface. I did not resort to undercutting the threads on the bolt to gain a whisker more, but if needed I'll certainly do it. Moreover, as this is a rear brake and not taxed quite the same as the front, I thought about cutting into the pad itself, making it thinner top-to-bottom which reduces contact area but might give more clearance. Kool-Stops on the way, let's see what happens. I doubt this solution applies if the needed movement is much greater -- looking at the OP's photo, not certain how many mm that needed to move.

Just in case, bookmarked those alternative pad holders but wanted to keep the brakes semi-original.

Originally Posted by Doug Fattic View Post
I'm going to agree with Germany_chris and suggest filing the slot a bit longer. Of course I am a frame builder that knows how to file with the big variety of files on my pegboard. If done right, it won't hurt the brakes and the slot extension will be hidden under the brake blocks. There were very few decent side pull brakes that had a reach longer than 57mm. Find a 6" American pattern round file that should be about the same diameter as the brake shoe slot. Put the file through both slots so it is always in the right position. You are probably not filing both slots at the same time but rather putting downward force on one slot while the other slot keeps the file in the right position. You might ever so slightly put a little side pressure to make sure the width is enough. If you work carefully it will turn out fine.
Originally Posted by tiger1964 View Post
That looks like a very detailed explanation, and I am embarking on exactly this, I think, on a Superbe (frame originally had Campy... Suntour is shorter? Who knew?) I was contemplating trying a dremel, I have a selection to grinding stones and "burrs", everything seems to load up so much when filing/grinding aluminum... and one slip might make a real mess of it. This means going to the dreaded Home Depot I've been trying to stay out of for 12 months, and their inventory "control" means that usually half the pegboard hooks are empty but unsure I get get the correct diameter via online. Likely smart to take the digital micrometer to HD with me. All for a couple of millimeters. EDIT: Well, the micrometer says the slot is 1/4". HD has one in stock 1/4" x 6" locally, and/or Amazon has one that's 1/4" round x 8", but "chainsaw" in description. Not sure what the distinction is there.
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Old 04-09-21, 08:29 PM
  #62  
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Well, the rest of the pieces needed to complete the build finally arrived , so I thought I would wrap this up by showing it. It is almost 100% Superbe components, with a couple of minor exceptions which I will show below.
The first of course is the Bdop pad holders.
The owner decided to go with the 27" wheels after all, because he just likes the nice Wolber rims. Who can blame him? However, the drop pads were still necessary to make the brakes reach.
Sometimes, to keep the group pure, concessions must be made. To fit the JIS headset to an ISO frame and fork, the crown race was knurled and the cups bonded in the headtube with loctite 680. Not the first time I've done this, and have not had issues.


The top of the pad holders were pretty close to the tires, so as someone suggested earlier, I put a bit of a bevel on them.








The Superbe hoods were dried out and cracked, but these Campy hoods fit perfectly.



Just couldn't manage to keep the build Shimano free. They supplied the downtube cable stop/guide.

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Old 04-18-21, 05:48 AM
  #63  
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One more quick update just to show the finished bike with decals attached. The owner did that part himself and sent me these photos.


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Old 04-18-21, 11:00 PM
  #64  
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Great solution, good looking Roberts!
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Old 04-19-21, 06:06 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
One more quick update just to show the finished bike with decals attached. The owner did that part himself and sent me these photos.
I like how you color-matched the brake pads to the cable housing and bar tape!
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Old 04-19-21, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tiger1964 View Post
I like how you color-matched the brake pads to the cable housing and bar tape!
Not to mention the toe straps, saddle, and the blue patch on the Schwalbe label. Although the saddle is not quite a match.
Oh yeah, and the valve caps.

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