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The best fender line awards!

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The best fender line awards!

Old 03-25-21, 01:02 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
This has so much going on. Its not what I would ride, but its super cool to look at that I really like it.
- bright red paint.
- 1x classic style crank with gold chain and Microshift Advent super wide range derailleur and cassette.
- heavily logoed wheels with bladed spokes.
- wooden mini fender.


So much happening! Really neat to look at.
i really am impressed with the paint... rustoleum cherry. it was easy to apply, and nice and bright.
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Old 03-25-21, 01:02 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by lonesomesteve View Post
I humbly submit Frek.

One thing I absolutely love about the old Treks that were build for 27" wheels is that the seatstay bridge tends to be in exactly the right place for fender mounting with 650b x 42mm wheels and tires.

Always liked this one, it pops up on Instagram from time to time. I believe I follow you as well.
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Old 03-25-21, 04:06 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by cocoabeachcrab View Post
i really am impressed with the paint... rustoleum cherry. it was easy to apply, and nice and bright.
Wow, really? Did you spray or brush it on? Clear coat? I'm about to embark on a Rustoleum job, so this is inspiring.
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Old 03-25-21, 04:17 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by noobinsf View Post
Wow, really? Did you spray or brush it on? Clear coat? I'm about to embark on a Rustoleum job, so this is inspiring.
this is going to sound pretty bad, but i ran out of patience to wait for a perfect day... the weird squiggles on the top tube are a reflection from my quickie photo shoot.

this was a one afternoon windy spray paint job with the frame hanging from a tall metal sheppard's crook in the yard with the outside temps only in the 50's with 15- 20 knot gusts with calm pockets of air now and then. i did coats in between wind gusts... 2 coats total and no clearcoat. no runs and nice and shiny. i got lucky!
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Old 03-25-21, 04:31 PM
  #55  
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My meager contribution.

Bought both the tires and fenders from the same CL seller, then just slapped them on the bike and called it good.

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Old 03-25-21, 04:34 PM
  #56  
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Now why did someone go and post this? Must be a picky bunch, and now I will have to get to work on my one bike with fenders. Gorgeous pics and bikes! Wow to all.
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Old 03-25-21, 08:45 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post

In all of the above, the bridges in the rear triangle are in an optimal position, equidistant from the hub. Here's one that's unmodified, the brake bridge limits the position of the fender. Fork crown does the same in the front. A half round file taken to the leading edge can help.


Raleigh Gran(d) Sport(s) That brake bridge bugs me, to be fixed when I have time.
gugie, please say more more about the filing?
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Old 03-25-21, 09:14 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by ascherer View Post
gugie, please say more more about the filing?
Sure thing, and this is something you can do to improve a fenderline on your own.

Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:



As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.

With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.

I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
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Old 03-26-21, 07:15 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by southpawboston View Post
Those fender lines are pretty damn consistent!
Why thank you

Yours as well, I'm particularly impressed with the black Raleigh - close-fitting skinny fenders on skinny tires doesn't leave much room for adjustment!
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Old 03-26-21, 07:17 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by sd5782 View Post
Now why did someone go and post this? Must be a picky bunch, and now I will have to get to work on my one bike with fenders. Gorgeous pics and bikes! Wow to all.
As an added bonus, once you see a bunch of bikes with fenders installed with care and love, every other set you see that are slapped on haphazardly will make you

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Old 03-26-21, 08:08 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by northbend View Post
I always struggle with getting clean fender lines. You guys make it look so easy
Oof! by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
Wait, I have one like that:
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Old 03-26-21, 08:42 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by abshipp View Post
I humbly request a re-submittal.

I remembered that when doing some work on this bike a few weeks ago I spent a decent amount of time reworking the fenders to refine the fit a little bit more.

Also, can anyone spot the little change I made to tweak the riding experience a bit? Hint: It's not the saddle, RD, brake levers, or handlebar tape (although I do love all of those!)

Beautiful ride. Which front rack is that and how do you have those arms attached? I'm looking to put a Velo-Orange rack on a bike I'm building - I found one used at a good price but it's the non-canti verion and this bike has canti-brakes. Trying to figure out if I can make it work before I drive to go pick it up.

Also, never thought bottle cages could be sexy but..which ones are those?
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Old 03-26-21, 09:10 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by partyanimal View Post
Beautiful ride. Which front rack is that and how do you have those arms attached? I'm looking to put a Velo-Orange rack on a bike I'm building - I found one used at a good price but it's the non-canti verion and this bike has canti-brakes. Trying to figure out if I can make it work before I drive to go pick it up.

Also, never thought bottle cages could be sexy but..which ones are those?
Thanks so much

The rack is from Nitto, made specially for a now-closed bike shop called The Granary. It attaches through the fork crown as well as to the cantilever posts just like the Nitto M-12 or Velo Orange Randonneur Canti rack. Great, solid connection and fairly simple to install. I've owned several of the Velo Orange front racks and the tubing can be easily tweaked to the little adjustments you might need to fit your particular bike. Just don't try and go too far, it is tubing so it will crease

If you have cantilever posts, I would recommend picking up a rack that mounts to them for sure. What bike is it?

Bottle cages are Velo Orange "Moderniste" stainless.
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Old 03-26-21, 09:28 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by abshipp View Post
Thanks so much

The rack is from Nitto, made specially for a now-closed bike shop called The Granary. It attaches through the fork crown as well as to the cantilever posts just like the Nitto M-12 or Velo Orange Randonneur Canti rack. Great, solid connection and fairly simple to install. I've owned several of the Velo Orange front racks and the tubing can be easily tweaked to the little adjustments you might need to fit your particular bike. Just don't try and go too far, it is tubing so it will crease

If you have cantilever posts, I would recommend picking up a rack that mounts to them for sure. What bike is it?

Bottle cages are Velo Orange "Moderniste" stainless.
The bike is an 80s Peugeot ladies mountain bike, building it for the wife. Almost impossible to find a frame her size that she's comfortable with. Trying to turn it into a touring bike. I bought a lot of components from VO but unfortunately their racks are all sold out. Might look around a bit more. If the tubing on the regular rack would reach I was going to try and mount it right to the fork with some p-clamps but I'd rather do it the right way. thanks for the info.
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Old 03-26-21, 09:44 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by partyanimal View Post
The bike is an 80s Peugeot ladies mountain bike, building it for the wife. Almost impossible to find a frame her size that she's comfortable with. Trying to turn it into a touring bike. I bought a lot of components from VO but unfortunately their racks are all sold out. Might look around a bit more. If the tubing on the regular rack would reach I was going to try and mount it right to the fork with some p-clamps but I'd rather do it the right way. thanks for the info.
Gotcha. I have maybe a bit of an irrational dislike of P-clamps for rack mounting so I'd either try and hold out for a cantilever version or perhaps go with their "Constructeur" front rack that bolts on to fender/rack eyelets at the fork dropouts. Looks like those are somewhat available but it might interfere with another rack if you wanted to run low-rider panniers on the front.

You can always ask around in the ISO & For Trade sticky thread, too.

Oh, and to keep things on topic, you should totally put fenders on it and post pictures in here
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Old 03-26-21, 09:47 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by abshipp View Post
Gotcha. I have maybe a bit of an irrational dislike of P-clamps for rack mounting so I'd either try and hold out for a cantilever version or perhaps go with their "Constructeur" front rack that bolts on to fender/rack eyelets at the fork dropouts. Looks like those are somewhat available but it might interfere with another rack if you wanted to run low-rider panniers on the front.

You can always ask around in the ISO & For Trade sticky thread, too.

Oh, and to keep things on topic, you should totally put fenders on it and post pictures in here
Already got the VO fender on the front, waiting for the other parts to come in to do the rear. It's my first foray into fenders so not sure it will be picture-worthy but we'll see.
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Old 03-26-21, 10:01 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by partyanimal View Post
Already got the VO fender on the front, waiting for the other parts to come in to do the rear. It's my first foray into fenders so not sure it will be picture-worthy but we'll see.
It's not super difficult, it just takes a lot of time

To get things bang-on you might need to do some localized re-radiusing, there's a great blog post about that here.
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Old 03-26-21, 11:20 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
Sure thing, and this is something you can do to improve a fenderline on your own.

Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:



As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.

With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.

I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
An alternative to filing the front edge of the fork crown to gain a little more clearance under the crown is to dimple the fender where it meets the front of the crown so that the front of the crown won't push down on the fender. You can do this with a simple homemade press made from M5 or M6 threaded rod, a bunch of fender washers, and some M5/M6 nuts. Fasten the press to the daruma bolt hole in the fender, tighten it up so that the fender washers flatten out the fender, and push forward to make that dimple parallel with the crown. Concept illustrated here:


The end product:



And you know when you've dimpled it to the right angle when you fasten the fender at the fork crown and don't fasten it to the stays. It should hang in proper alignment from just the daruma bolt. Notice in this photo the stays are not bolted to the dropout eyelets:
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Old 03-26-21, 11:29 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Wait, I have one like that:
ouch!
was that a stick that did that, or a squirrel with bad timing?

Steve in Peoria (where I live in fear of stupid squirrels)
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Old 03-26-21, 11:32 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by southpawboston View Post
An alternative to filing the front edge of the fork crown to gain a little more clearance under the crown is to dimple the fender where it meets the front of the crown so that the front of the crown won't push down on the fender.
Good knowledge Anton! I can imagine a situation where it might take a bit of fender bending and a bit of fork crown massaging.

Perhaps we can call it the Tutter-Guglielmana Effect. Publish a paper with lots of math that no one understands.
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Old 03-26-21, 02:56 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by steelbikeguy View Post
ouch!
was that a stick that did that, or a squirrel with bad timing?

Steve in Peoria (where I live in fear of stupid squirrels)
Yup, took up a stick while riding on some trails where road bikes were probably not meant to be. I actually bent it back and used it for another year until if failed at the bending crease.
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Old 03-26-21, 06:39 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by gugie;[url=tel:21985486
21985486[/url]]Sure thing, and this is something you can do to improve a fenderline on your own.

Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:



As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.

With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.

I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
Ooooooooooo...
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Old 03-26-21, 06:40 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by southpawboston;[url=tel:21986191
21986191[/url]]An alternative to filing the front edge of the fork crown to gain a little more clearance under the crown is to dimple the fender where it meets the front of the crown so that the front of the crown won't push down on the fender. You can do this with a simple homemade press made from M5 or M6 threaded rod, a bunch of fender washers, and some M5/M6 nuts. Fasten the press to the daruma bolt hole in the fender, tighten it up so that the fender washers flatten out the fender, and push forward to make that dimple parallel with the crown. Concept illustrated here:


The end product:



And you know when you've dimpled it to the right angle when you fasten the fender at the fork crown and don't fasten it to the stays. It should hang in proper alignment from just the daruma bolt. Notice in this photo the stays are not bolted to the dropout eyelets:
Ooooooooooo... again!
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Old 03-26-21, 07:08 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by fender1 View Post
PDW fenders over Compass 32mm




My other bike with fenders:


Beauties. Practical, attractive bikes.
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Old 03-27-21, 09:55 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by lonesomesteve View Post
I humbly submit Frek.

One thing I absolutely love about the old Treks that were build for 27" wheels is that the seatstay bridge tends to be in exactly the right place for fender mounting with 650b x 42mm wheels and tires.

Big inspiration (obviously) for my Trek conversion, courtesy of gugie
1983 Trek 620

1414 Goff Blvd SW
Albuquerque, NM 87105
I've since wired the lighting through the frame, with the taillight tucked under the saddle to allow fenderless travel.
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