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Complete Disassembly of Suntour Derailleurs

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Complete Disassembly of Suntour Derailleurs

Old 03-26-21, 09:26 AM
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Complete Disassembly of Suntour Derailleurs

I have a Suntour Superbe (original, not SSP) group that I am planning to send out to be custom anodized gold. After speaking with the ano shop, I understand that I have to disassemble everything so that I am only anodizing aluminum parts. Any steel will be damaged by the ano process.

After looking closely at the front and rear derailleurs, I see their pivot pins are all steel, as are the internal springs. The pivots don't screw in place, so I'm not clear on how to remove them. Do I need to use a hammer and a tiny punch? Any tricks to this that I'm not aware of?

I have a lot of experience disassembling derailleurs, but primarily older Shimano and Simplex, and not to the degree where i've literally removed every ferrous part. I also don't think I've had to punch out pins before. So, this is new territory for me but not way out there. Anyone's with experience, your advice and tips would be appreciated.
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Old 03-26-21, 10:11 AM
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I am looking at a Superbe Pro RD right now and I also looked at an Accushift 3040 and a Suntour V-GT.

None of the pins involved with the parallelogram linkage looked to be removable as there is no place to punch them to. I will say that there are these slight indentations around each linkage pin and perhaps Suntour had some type of proprietary tool that reaches in, grabs the pinion, and pulls it out. Looks to me though that even with the proper tool, that would be incredibly difficult.
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Old 03-26-21, 10:17 AM
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nothing is impossible, but many tasks require outrageous effort.
if one has a mill and a lathe, those are the tools that come to mind in addition to a good quantity of tool furniture to get the job done.
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Old 03-26-21, 10:32 AM
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I've pondered that question myself. It was related to the parallelogram spring getting weak, and wondering how to remove the roll pins to get the thing apart.
Presumably a punch could be used to remove the roll pins where both ends are accessible, but some are only accessible from one end. I can't imagine how they can be extracted like that.

Steve in Peoria
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Old 03-26-21, 04:42 PM
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I think the indentations I see on the Superbe Pro RD near where the roll pins are inserted are a clue. They must have had some kink of circlip plier tool that allows grabbing the roll pin and pulling it out of the joint. I cannot see any other reason for these indentations to be there.
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Old 03-28-21, 05:56 PM
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I have a Suntour Cyclone RD that started to underperform which turned out to be due to a broken parallelogram spring. On initial examination of the mechanism, I despaired of a reasonable disassembly and spring replacement scenario. I would love to be convinced otherwise.
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Old 03-28-21, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gkamieneski View Post
I think the indentations I see on the Superbe Pro RD near where the roll pins are inserted are a clue. They must have had some kink of circlip plier tool that allows grabbing the roll pin and pulling it out of the joint. I cannot see any other reason for these indentations to be there.
The units I examined do not use roll pins, but solid pins, probably with a knurling at the exterior end. The marks seen I am pretty sure are from the pin setting press, that probably upsets the surrounding aluminum as a bit of insurance and limit the insertion. The way I see it, drill them hollow and use a tap to engage and extract, or drill a smaller hole at the closed end and tap them out with a suitable drift. one of the pins looks quite a challenge to map ans the upper body covers it very effectively.

It of course can be done given enough equipment.
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Old 03-28-21, 06:48 PM
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OP, I would reconsider the gold anodizing before I would drill into the closed ends of the parallelogram. It would be awful to find out that once you disassembled the linkages, that there was yet another ferrous part you couldn't get to. Maybe you will want to find a full schematic. Just my $.02
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Old 03-28-21, 07:53 PM
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https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_iTKbhvyAci...rbe+pro+rd.jpg
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Old 03-30-21, 07:26 PM
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Thank you all for your input. Immediate decision was not to move forward with the anodizing because I was able to acquire an original gold Suntour group. That's a story for a whole different thread. In an attempt to make this not totally a waste of time, I did do a close inspection of the Superbe RD and FD I have. All of the pivot pins appear to have a "T" shape head on one end and a smaller, indented bit on the opposite.

From velobase. T Shape:


Indented Side:


After looking at this, I believe it's possible to knock these pins out cleanly with an appropriately-sized punch and a vise to hold the part. However, that's going to remain my untested opinion for now since I don't want to take the chance of being wrong and wrecking a component when I don't need to.

If I ever decide to test this, I'll post the results here. If anyone else has or does, let us know.
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Old 03-31-21, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Catnap View Post

After looking at this, I believe it's possible to knock these pins out cleanly with an appropriately-sized punch and a vise to hold the part.
I don't think so, unless you remove the upset lip of the rivet. With careful mounting in a mill this could be done, but of course all your rivets are then too short.

If you do not remove the lip when you attempt to punch the rivet out the lip will not go through the hole without either it or the wall deforming. As it is steel with the (presumably steel) punch behind it and the wall is aluminium it means that even if you are successful the hole will be bigger and all your rivets will then be too small.
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Old 03-31-21, 10:10 AM
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I think you are right. When looking closely at the rivets, I couldn't tell whether there was a lip on the non "T" side. If there is, then your explanation makes sense and they're not removeable.

One thing that occurred to me that might indicate if this is possible at all is whether or not Suntour sold replacement front derailleur cages, or replacement parallelogram parts for the bodies of either the FDs or the RDs. If these parts aren't replaceable, then I'd assume they wouldn't have spares for sale.
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