Would you trust Sunlite brake bolts?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,291
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,204 Times
in
700 Posts
Would you trust Sunlite brake bolts?
I just got a deal on a nice set of Cyclone single pivot brake calipers, but they are recessed, and I want to use them on a frame that needs nutted mount. Drilling the frame is not an option. However, I know Sunlite sells these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNLITE-F-4....c100891.m5206
I’ve used items like Sunlite tubes and bearings, cable endcaps and whatnot, but not something as critical as a brake mounting bolt before. It seems like they are a big enough operation that they would not put out a substandard product. Do others agree, and would you swap these in for your own brakes? I may also go to the coop to find a donor set, but want to see what folks think.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNLITE-F-4....c100891.m5206
I’ve used items like Sunlite tubes and bearings, cable endcaps and whatnot, but not something as critical as a brake mounting bolt before. It seems like they are a big enough operation that they would not put out a substandard product. Do others agree, and would you swap these in for your own brakes? I may also go to the coop to find a donor set, but want to see what folks think.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,315
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3447 Post(s)
Liked 2,786 Times
in
1,967 Posts
Nah, front to rear, use a coupling nut inside the steerer ( might have to trim to fit- they vary )
M6 button head cap screw to stabilize it from the back, use a formed washer perhaps
if you work out the dimensions well it is actually stronger than the typical thru bolt.
M6 button head cap screw to stabilize it from the back, use a formed washer perhaps
if you work out the dimensions well it is actually stronger than the typical thru bolt.
#3
Pedal to the medal
Nah, front to rear, use a coupling nut inside the steerer ( might have to trim to fit- they vary )
M6 button head cap screw to stabilize it from the back, use a formed washer perhaps
if you work out the dimensions well it is actually stronger than the typical thru bolt.
M6 button head cap screw to stabilize it from the back, use a formed washer perhaps
if you work out the dimensions well it is actually stronger than the typical thru bolt.
Last edited by romperrr; 04-05-21 at 12:39 AM. Reason: spelling
#4
Pedal to the medal
They wouldn't be my first choice, I'd try the coop route before resorting to these
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,869
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1093 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,295 Times
in
765 Posts
Nah, front to rear, use a coupling nut inside the steerer ( might have to trim to fit- they vary )
M6 button head cap screw to stabilize it from the back, use a formed washer perhaps
if you work out the dimensions well it is actually stronger than the typical thru bolt.
M6 button head cap screw to stabilize it from the back, use a formed washer perhaps
if you work out the dimensions well it is actually stronger than the typical thru bolt.
A small bit cut from an old stem, squared up and drilled will do.
#6
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,637
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2594 Post(s)
Liked 1,670 Times
in
924 Posts
What's the worst that could happen?
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,445
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1623 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 805 Times
in
522 Posts
Only chain whip that ever asploded on me while I was taking off a freewheel, was a brand new one made by Sunlite.....
Bought it because I was cheap....
Whether that means their other stuff is junk, I'm not sure. But I'm sure, since then, Sunlite will not be my first choice for most tools or parts for my bikes.
Bought it because I was cheap....
Whether that means their other stuff is junk, I'm not sure. But I'm sure, since then, Sunlite will not be my first choice for most tools or parts for my bikes.
__________________
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,291
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,204 Times
in
700 Posts
Appreciate everyone's perspective. As it happens, I have an old DC 500 brake set that I could have sworn I had given away a long time ago, and I think the pivot bolts should work for a transfer. I'll steer clear of Sunlite for this purpose.
#9
Senior Member
I'm all for not wanting to use it for bike snobbery reasons, but as far as actual safety goes, I'm sure its fine.
Likes For degan:
#10
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,167
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1552 Post(s)
Liked 1,268 Times
in
843 Posts
If in doubt about product safety, buy from a company with US assets.
This assures that the company is liable for dangerous products they sell, and thus they are likely to carry insurance which pressures them to have safety-related quality-control and testing data, all for asset protection.
This assures that the company is liable for dangerous products they sell, and thus they are likely to carry insurance which pressures them to have safety-related quality-control and testing data, all for asset protection.
Last edited by dddd; 04-05-21 at 05:09 PM.
Likes For dddd:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,790
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 125 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4731 Post(s)
Liked 3,832 Times
in
2,492 Posts
My thoughts go to what's the worst that could happen? It's just a brake bolt. The rear brake will probably just swing down a little. Might jam the wheel and be hard on the tire. The front should just pop out neatly.
#12
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,487
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2395 Post(s)
Liked 4,337 Times
in
2,070 Posts