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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7

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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7

Old 05-20-21, 02:00 PM
  #251  
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I picked this up on the roadside a few days ago. Free bike, imagine that who just leaves a prefect bike with fenders just laying around? Dang they could have sold it for $10, Probably a Carpet Fiber rider.






34 1/2 pounds of KHS GRAN SPORT 10 Speed.

The Black Beauty, made in Taiwan, fresh tires yeah!
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Old 05-20-21, 03:51 PM
  #252  
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If you need to by a new tool to make your project work, is that part of $100 goal?
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Old 05-20-21, 05:22 PM
  #253  
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70's Follis Overhaul: Both wheels spin surprisingly smooth and are pretty true. Once open, front hub only had a little, very dark, sticky grease, but no grit or pitting. Cleaned everything up, add grease, re-assemble. Should be good for a while now. Found an old can of Brasso and cleaned the rim. Cleaned the braking surface and sidewall with some alcohol, took a few pics and quit for the day. Don

Front Axle with Cones, Bearings

Front Hub, No Inscription

All Freshened Up

Nisi Toro Rim
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Old 05-20-21, 07:46 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by ollo_ollo View Post
70's Follis Overhaul: Both wheels spin surprisingly smooth and are pretty true. Once open, front hub only had a little, very dark, sticky grease, but no grit or pitting. Cleaned everything up, add grease, re-assemble. Should be good for a while now. Found an old can of Brasso and cleaned the rim. Cleaned the braking surface and sidewall with some alcohol, took a few pics and quit for the day. Don

Front Axle with Cones, Bearings

Front Hub, No Inscription

All Freshened Up

Nisi Toro Rim
The hub looks like a Maillard high flange hub. I would consider it lucky there's no pitting on the races.
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Old 05-20-21, 09:20 PM
  #255  
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No doubt. Although, of the 10 Frenchies hanging out in my basement, only 1 had some pitting on the rear hub. Meanwhile, as I ride my Clunker along the farm roads of Oregon, pretending we're in the TdF, I'm going to pretend they're Normandy Luxe with the gold foil labels peeled off from age. Don
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Old 05-20-21, 11:58 PM
  #256  
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50 year hubs no problem, 50 year old spokes and rims??

Originally Posted by ollo_ollo View Post
No doubt. Although, of the 10 Frenchies hanging out in my basement, only 1 had some pitting on the rear hub. Meanwhile, as I ride my Clunker along the farm roads of Oregon, pretending we're in the TdF, I'm going to pretend they're Normandy Luxe with the gold foil labels peeled off from age. Don
This Follis is the cream of the crop of this challenge thus far IMHO. Vintage French frame with chrome, simplex bar cons, stronglight crank, racers, definitely not the typical vintage bike boom find. What is the confidence level on 50 year old rims and spokes? I have wheels I built 30 years ago that I still ride, but somehow I have less confidence in the rim and spoke manufacturing from the early 70's.
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Old 05-21-21, 12:05 AM
  #257  
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I removed the badly mangled RD from my clunker to replace with something from the bin. Then it hit me- why not just bend it back? So I chucked it up in the vise and reefed on with some channel lock pliers until it was kinda sorta the right shape again. The claw was hopeless but I found a replacement on the garage floor. I was feeling really proud of myself until I went to reattach the shifter cable and the cinch bolt sheared in half. These all steel Suntour GT's certainly are robust tho and it did a number on the rear wheel. Hopefully I can get it true enough to ride.


Oh, and here's the saddle it came with. A clunker Brooks!
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Old 05-21-21, 12:50 AM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by Insidious C. View Post
I removed the badly mangled RD from my clunker to replace with something from the bin. Then it hit me- why not just bend it back?
Now that is embracing the spirit of the challenge! I don't feel quite as bad about sanding the rust off of my spokes now.
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Old 05-21-21, 07:26 AM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by Insidious C. View Post
I removed the badly mangled RD from my clunker to replace with something from the bin. Then it hit me- why not just bend it back? So I chucked it up in the vise and reefed on with some channel lock pliers until it was kinda sorta the right shape again. The claw was hopeless but I found a replacement on the garage floor.
I've learned how simple it really is to just bend stuff back into shape thanks to several years of participation in this challenge! So far I've bent derailleur claws, stamped dropouts and gaspipe frames. Before the lawyers took over, it used to be routine to bend stuff back into shape, like my old Batavus the time I dropped it and the rear triangle wound up way out of plane - the LBS just shoved it back into alignment, boom!

On the Cannondale front, I've tentatively identified it as a 1986 ST400 that's had a long hard life! The front fork and headset are replacements, it has mismatched front and rear 700C wheels in lieu of the original 36-spoke 27-in units, SR bars and stem instead of the Belleri/Nitto it had when new, Shimano 600 levers and headset with a SunTour front and who knows what rear - basically, the only stock bits left are the brake calipers and perhaps the seatpost.

Yesterday morning in that block of time between when I am dressed and ready and when everyone else wakes up in my household, I attacked the stuck seatpost. I removed the Origin8 saddle that came on the bike and fitted a junk unit and tried to turn the post in the frame through use of the good old yard-long steel pipe. Nope. Then I tried a couple of different crowbars, but again, no dice. This method, btw, worked wonders when I had a stuck seatpost on my Allegro, but that was an alloy Zeus post in a steel frame, and this is a FLUTED SR alloy post in an aluminum frame. I wound up giving up for the morning.

Throughout the day yesterday I pondered it. Perhaps as much as 1/3 of the flutes are in the seat tube, which permitted moisture to get in there and bond things really well, and there's probably a good bit of non-fluted post below that. I'm thinking I may want to try some Corrosion Block to see if that will de-bond the aluminum. The other stuff I already have is great for rust and iron oxide, but I honestly don't think Liquid Wrench or Power Blaster will work with an aluminum-to-aluminum issue. Fortunately, the LBS with the back room that coughed this up has an understanding owner and a big honking bench vise, and the SR seatpost appears to have a top that is an integral casting with the shaft. At some point, Corrosion Block or some other soaking or not, we'll be using that.

With all that in mind, this morning I went out again and started tearing it down. First order of business was the pedals, and it took Liquid Wrench, a long Eldi 15 mm pedal wrench and a 2-lb hammer to break the right pedal free. The left just needed to be sprayed and forcefully unscrewed and all was well. The wheels popped off as they should, and again I was struck by how smooth the Normandy Luxe Competition hub feels, and how much the generic rear needs service. The rear brake caliper was resistant enough that I decided to simply spray both brake center bolts, the stem where it enters the headset, the front derailleur mount screw and the rear derailleur mounting bolt and leave the rest of the bike as-is until later. I took another minute or two to removed the rusted-through T.A. bottle cage from the downtube and discard it - nothing to salvage there!
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Old 05-21-21, 07:59 AM
  #260  
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Had some time this morning to finish up the Claridge for now. Non-original parts are wheelset (w/ really cheap Shimano coaster-brake rear hub), pretty horrible 27" Specialized tires that a friend unloaded on me, crankset (I used the existing spindle by flipped it around), chain, bars, grips. Brake lever is from the BOC. I think the bars and crankset came from @clubman in a trade. The only thing new among those bits are the rear hub and grips.


I took it for a quick spin around the block. Quiet and smooth! Seat isn't exactly comfortable and has a tear on one rear edge, but I don't think I have a cheap substitute that isn't a mattress saddle. Might need to tilt it down a bit, too, before amassing the requisite mileage.
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Old 05-21-21, 08:08 AM
  #261  
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This whole challenge is awesome. Love the barber pole approach on that Claridge. Just the right degree of whimsy for this pursuit.
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Old 05-21-21, 08:32 AM
  #262  
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rustystrings61 I'd be looking to use boiling water and dry ice or canned air to try and cause enough differential expansion between the frame and the post. If you can chill the post, and then heat the seat tube while twisting and or lubricating the post, you might be able to get just enough separation of the interface to break it loose or wick a penetrating lubricant in there. Luckily, aluminum and its commercial alloys have the highest thermal coefficient of expansion of any metal, listed as about .00025 per degree C. Dry ice is around -70 to-80 Celsius, and boiling water is approaching 100 Celsius. Multiplying the change in temperature with the coefficient yields a total change in a single dimensions of about 0.4%. Using 26.2mm as the seatpost diameter, I calculated a maximum difference in dimensions (from -70C to 100C) of slightly more than 0.1mm. That should be more than enough to break the seatpost-seat tube interface.

I know locally, Jeni's Ice Cream sells (or used to sell) dry ice with purchases of ice cream if you asked, so your quart of ice cream wouldn't melt if you weren't going straight home. A quick google search shows that there's lots of places to buy the stuff local to me. If you were able to drop a few pellets of the stuff into the seat post through the BB and wait for frost to show on the seat tube, then pour a kettle of very hot water over the section containing the seat post, I bet you'd hear some pinging and popping as the seat tube expands away from the seatpost!

I say we can offer a Clunker Challenge Scientific Grant if you choose to pursue this important research! By grant, I mean that we'll all agree that the cost of the dry ice (or safe handling equipment) is not included for the purposes of the challenge.

Edited to add: You might not even need the hot water. Simply chilling the aluminum should cause all of the aluminum to shrink towards its respective center, away from the interface. Thankfully, dry ice is cheap, and a pound of the stuff would provide much more than you'd need for the experiment.

Last edited by Unca_Sam; 05-21-21 at 08:43 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 05-21-21, 10:37 AM
  #263  
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The dry ice idea is interesting - but I can't find anyone in town that sells the stuff, and the one store in a neighboring town that does sell it is out and they have no clue when they will get more. I'll keep looking and thinking about this, though - it's an interesting idea and maybe I'll find a source!
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Old 05-21-21, 12:13 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
The dry ice idea is interesting - but I can't find anyone in town that sells the stuff, and the one store in a neighboring town that does sell it is out and they have no clue when they will get more. I'll keep looking and thinking about this, though - it's an interesting idea and maybe I'll find a source!

I was able to break a alloy alloy mind meld using WD40 several times, then working 3/1 oil into spaces where I could.

I like the ice cream idea though.
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Old 05-21-21, 02:50 PM
  #265  
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Weighing in at 9 lbs 5 oz is the the KHS frame fork and headset, pre bottom bracket.

The fork has pitting on the Chrome the headset and bottom bracket pulled easily and cleaned up with good tracks






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Old 05-21-21, 02:59 PM
  #266  
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I will add, the driveside bb is a 37mm cup, I use the Trimo. On the non drive side I used an adjusting pivot hook wrench on both the lock ring and cup.




Last edited by Mr. 66; 05-21-21 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 05-21-21, 03:03 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66 View Post
Weighing in at 9 lbs 5 oz is the the KHS frame fork and headset, pre bottom bracket.
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Old 05-21-21, 04:55 PM
  #268  
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Patience is not my strong suit, which is why I should never attempt to paint a bike. Nevertheless, as I've said earlier, learning new skills is one of the things I like about this challenge. Refreshing your memory, here is my frame after painting.



I brought it in from the garage to hang behind my home office desk because (a) it's warmer in here, (b) it makes me happy, and (c) it gives me a lot of time to look at it and see what needs work. Although I was pretty happy with how it looked above, on closer inspection it had some texture issues.



So, I grabbed some water and some 600 and 800 grit sandpaper and gently caressed the surface. That left it looking terrible (as expected), but I got it feeling decently smooth. I think the appearance of texture here is mostly just the negative image of what I sanded off.



Now you might think the next step is to polish that back to a nice shine. That's what I thought, but I needed to order more polish and it won't be here until Sunday. This where my lack of patience comes in. Instead of just waiting, I decided to put on another coat of paint. What's the worst that could happen? I don't know. The worst that did happen is I introduced some new drips and probably reintroduced the texture problems. I can live with that. I'm really anxious to have something to do, but at the same time I'm putting off cleaning up the wheels. I took the bike out into the light of day to get a better idea of where things stood. All things considered, it's not too bad. There's plenty of work left for me to screw up on this, but if I had to quit now I wouldn't be entirely ashamed of this.

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Old 05-21-21, 05:17 PM
  #269  
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I found a front wheel in the stash, a very nice Weinman on Schwinn approved dlux hub. Not bad the OLD is only big a mm to the fork, spins smoothly gave it a try. To my bother, I find misaligned forks. Off they come and the crown race too. I give them a measure, the non drive side is 1.5mm longer, and off plane about the same.




I'm ok with trying to adjust that should be fine, I clean more and look closer.



its junk, Shazbot! As one from Ork would phrase. This takes the KHS out of the challenge .

Oh well I have fresh 27-1 1/4" tires.
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Old 05-21-21, 05:24 PM
  #270  
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Duct tape..Iím sure itíll be just fine!

Originally Posted by Mr. 66 View Post
I found a front wheel in the stash, a very nice Weinman on Schwinn approved dlux hub. Not bad the OLD is only big a mm to the fork, spins smoothly gave it a try. To my bother, I find misaligned forks. Off they come and the crown race too. I give them a measure, the non drive side is 1.5mm longer, and off plane about the same.




I'm ok with trying to adjust that should be fine, I clean more and look closer.



its junk, Shazbot! As one from Ork would phrase. This takes the KHS out of the challenge .

Oh well I have fresh 27-1 1/4" tires.
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Old 05-21-21, 06:08 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by curbtender View Post
If you need to by a new tool to make your project work, is that part of $100 goal?
No, unless you want to count it.
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Old 05-21-21, 06:40 PM
  #272  
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Three kilometers today on the Rampar as I took it on a post office run, bringing my distance up to 40.8km.

As far as total cost goes, I'm already in for the initial investment of $15. After careish (midway between careful and careless) consideration of jdawg's valuations I figure:
Used pads = $1
Used brake cable = $.25
Used shift cable = $.25
Used Kenda 27" tires = $5
Used inner tubes = $1.50
This bring the grand total up to $23.
My calculations are a pretty even mix of inflation/parts availability in our current market climate, and arbitrary. Give or take.
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Old 05-22-21, 08:49 AM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by BFisher View Post
Three kilometers today on the Rampar as I took it on a post office run, bringing my distance up to 40.8km.

As far as total cost goes, I'm already in for the initial investment of $15. After careish (midway between careful and careless) consideration of jdawg's valuations I figure:
Used pads = $1
Used brake cable = $.25
Used shift cable = $.25
Used Kenda 27" tires = $5
Used inner tubes = $1.50
This bring the grand total up to $23.
My calculations are a pretty even mix of inflation/parts availability in our current market climate, and arbitrary. Give or take.
Honestly, I wouldn't have listened to me either...besides, I am at a standstill building the Nishiki, feeling guilty that it is "too good" for this challenge (though the rust is helping alleviate some concerns about that), or deciding to embrace the "best bike I can build and survive riding under $100."
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Old 05-22-21, 04:06 PM
  #274  
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Busy day today with time stolen to work on the Cannondale. I stripped off the brakes, cables, housings, bars, stem and brake levers as a unit, and they'll probably go back on the same way. Next I pulled the SunTour XCE front derailleur, which may get an Evaporust bath, followed by the no-longer-marked rear derailleur which absolutely needs a good soak. The chain came off without drama, and fortunately so did both cranks. The left is DEFINITELY cracked at the spindle, with the crack running about 3/4 of the way through. I was surprised to discover these are SR and not Sugino cranks, and even more surprised to find I have a left 170 SR crank that is more than close enough for the Clunker Challenge.





I removed the vintage Shimano 600 dt levers, which are not holding at all, and set them aside. I was recently given a bike I had built up for a friend many years ago so that I could build it up for my 13 year old to ride. He's getting his MicroNew brifters transferred over from his current bike, and I will take the lovely Shimano friction bar ends for this bike. I thought I had some plastic housing stops from when I got Eli's brifters, but had to settle for a scruffy set of metal units scavenged off a dead bike. Of course I needed to file them down to fit the mounts on the C'dale's oversized downtube. Is it perfect? No. Is this a clunker? Oh, yes.





I broke out the Meguiar's and a rag and shined it up, removing lots of crud and old grease. Then I got brave and decided to tackle the bottom bracket. The whole project almost got scuttled right there. Some previous owner had done lots of heavy-handed red touch-up work with a spray can. Some of that work was done down near the BB, and some of that red paint had wicked through into the adjustable cup's threads. It was just like a window that's been painted shut. I studied it a while, then got out the low VOC paint stripper and a model paint brush and worked some of the product into the threads. A few minutes later I came back, and because nothing exceeds like excess I sprayed it again with some Liquid Wrench. Still not quite there yet, so I got my daughter's hair dryer and went to work, thinking the aluminum frame would heat and expand faster than the steel adjustable cup. And I was right, and it did, but it still wasn't easy. I finally got it out to find petrified greasy dirt and threads full of pasty anti-seize that had seized. I eventually got it all cleaned out and put back together, but there are enough pits in the spindle to convince me that this bottom bracket is a very temporary thing.




Next was the headset, which was surprisingly easy even with the massive stack of keyed headset washers and the funky Shimano 600 wrench surfaces. For now it's all finger tight - which is how it was when I started, actually! Because the front wheel is very smooth and I don't feel like fixing what ain't broke, what remains at this point is the rear wheel. I may do an axle and spacers swap with a hub I have kicking around in the parts bin, as the bike is spaced about 129 and the rear wheel currently appears to be a 135.

The seatpost is still very, very stuck. For giggles I put it in the not so substantial vise on my workbench and got to watch the vise flex alarmingly. I heated the seat tube up with the hair dryer and tried again, with the same results. Sometime next week I should be receiving a 4 oz pump spray bottle of Corrosion Block, and we'll see if it makes a difference. I still think I'll be carting it all over to the LBS' big bench vise before it's all done. I have considered that if nothing budges this seat post, I may just see if I can fabricate a 2 cm or so spacer to allow me to get the saddle at the required 78 cm from the center of the crank spindle. It would be pretty clunktastic, but I think it would work.

Last edited by rustystrings61; 05-24-21 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 05-22-21, 04:27 PM
  #275  
rustystrings61 
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If you're even considering entering this exercise in misplaced priorities but lack a suitable frame, I may be able to enable ... I mean, help. Sitting in my workshop as I speak are three framesets with varying amounts of hardware associated with them. One is a 58x58 cm Bottechia that takes a 26.4 mm seatpost, frame, fork, headset, cottered BB, Carnielli bars and stem with Shimano aero brake levers shoehorned into Dia Compe hoods. There is also a Gitane Grand Sport 54x54, frame, fork, headset. Finally, in the event the person I have already offered it to doesn't claim it, I have a 25-in Schwinn World Sport, one of the ones with at least some chro-moly in the main tubes and an integral derailleur mount, which is frame, fork, headset, seatpost, binder bolt, bars, stem, brake levers, stem shifters and Shimano light action derailleurs. All I would want is shipping on these from 29649 to your zip code.

Last edited by rustystrings61; 05-27-21 at 09:47 AM.
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