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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7

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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7

Old 05-29-21, 03:05 PM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
i ordered it! Arrives tomorrow! Thanks for the info...
You're welcome.
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Old 05-29-21, 03:20 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
So in a stroke of luck, I seem to have found two 700c Gatorskins among the cluster of stuff I bought from Dominos pizza for $75 (5 Pure fix fixie frames, 10 aero flip flop wheels, 14 tires, 5 racks for pizza and handlebars, stems, etc)...

What is the valuation from the crowd for the wheels and any saddle I might use?
I think you should count the entire $75 and build as many bikes for this challenge as you need to to get the average cost down.
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Old 05-29-21, 03:24 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I think you should count the entire $75 and build as many bikes for this challenge as you need to to get the average cost down.
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Old 05-29-21, 04:21 PM
  #354  
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I decided that the Claridge, to be a proper “English” bike, needed a set of mudguards. Plus, I have a large pile of discarded fenders in my basement, most taken from previous flips. These SKS models cleaned up well but needed some reshaping with the heat gun. They’re also far too skinny to use on something in the regular herd, so perfect for this build. Next step: 100k of riding.

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Old 05-29-21, 04:50 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post

Interesting Look pedals, have no idea what cleats they take...using the white saddle and those pedals would allow some leeway with cables, bar tape and brake hoods (which I got a super deal on if they fit...)

and then the pedal choices...
I have (had?) a set of those pedals. Mine are violet color. I think the model is "Nevada." Cleats are unique to these and scarce- NOS only.
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Old 05-29-21, 05:08 PM
  #356  
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Did a very short Strava / Vetta calibration ride to see if my tire diameter measurement was accurate. Rode up the street to a large parking lot, then rode around slowly, waiting for the tenth of a mile to click over. I guess I measured pretty accurately, as Strava changed to the next tenth of a mile, and almost simultaneously the Vetta flipped to the next tenth. So I feel like I am back on track for accurate mileage record keeping with just the Vetta.
Today's ride of a mere 1.5 miles / 2.4km puts me over the half way mark for the challenge!
Cumulative: 31.7 miles / 51km.



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Old 05-29-21, 05:18 PM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by Insidious C. View Post
I have (had?) a set of those pedals. Mine are violet color. I think the model is "Nevada." Cleats are unique to these and scarce- NOS only.
okay...so much for those...they would have matched nicely...

Hopefully the Campy-look cleats work with the other beater Look pedals I have in the ďnever thought Iíd useĒ bin...
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Old 05-30-21, 04:46 AM
  #358  
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Green Super Course cost roundup:

So far, other than grease and black tape, Iím looking at:
- 32 tooth Freewheel $8 (actual cost)
- 53/39 Crankset (cotterless)($5 drive side Campy and $5 left side Tourney) $10
- Rear and Front derailleurs est. $10 total, donated from Fuji but no better than the derailleurs in the $5 box)
- Bottom bracket (square taper) - $5 (bb in $5 box would have worked, but Iíd already greased and installed bb from Fuji donor). Matched the original chain-line well enough for shifting.
- Seat est. $5 based on better seats Iíve bought for $5 from ďSaversĒ store or Goodwill. o Update: yesterday afternoon I scored a free saddle, and a very nice one. I was buying tire levers at the LBS, they had the seat in a spare parts box and said ďno chargeĒ. Iíll still assign $5.

- Total cost of parts: $38

Total: $83, gives me $17 left in case I get a flat tire or want to do more stuff to the bike. For example...

Iím surprised how much I dislike the too short stem on the broken front shifter. I could just swap with Fuji shifters I guess. But then I'd have to redo the shift cables, and I'm tired of re-doing work. I am still thinking about those mismatched wheels (probably just wishful thinking since I would have to get a wheel essentially free, and, again, I don't feel like regreasing or reininstalling axles). And despite having installed two lock-nuts on the steerer, I have some bearing play in the front fork after only 8k. Iíll retighten, it might be from removing and reinstalling the lower bearing race for cleaning.
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Old 05-31-21, 10:17 AM
  #359  
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... soooo close ....

So I got up early today and went to work out in the shop. On closer examination I found I had the right length axle in a Shimano hub scavenged from the LBS discard pile several years back. I pulled the Sanshin's axle and swapped around cones and fished out the right length of spacers from the box o' scavenged hub parts and dialed it all in. Then I fitted a 14-28 6-speed Shimano freewheel from last year's free donor bike. Perfect.

Next came tires - a well-used set of Pasela 32s to replace the impossible to work with 23 Gatorskins. I’m assigning a value of $10 to those, and a value of $1 for the used brake shoes I fitted to the rear caliper.

I had to tighten up the front shifter cable considerably from where it had bedded in overnight, and I did a little tweaking and was rewarded with good, smooth shifting. I squirted Tri-Flow into the non-rebuildable pedals and mounted those and took it out to photograph.

It needs a different front inner tube, and ideally clips and straps but here it is as is stands now -



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Old 05-31-21, 03:20 PM
  #360  
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... and BUILT!

I found some more time today, along with another (patched!) inner tube that actually holds AIR. What a concept. Once the front wheel was sorted out, I pinched the rear tire and worried it was losing air - but maybe not. It's still holding, so I'll keep my fingers crossed! I rolled out without even firing up Strava to test it out, immediately noting I needed to straighten the bars, hearing things rub, and realizing the pedals that came with the bike have bent spindles. Ugh.

Back to the shop, where the spoke wrench came to my aid. It took a few tries, but I got both wheels straight enough, though the rear has a little hop to it. Not enough to bother me that much, though. I fine tuned the brakes and eventually got them to where I think they'll stay centered - fingers crossed. I pulled the Cheap McNasty pedals and retrieved a set of well-worn MKS Sylvan track pedals with Christophe clips and old ALE straps and did some calculations. The pedals were $19.95 new c.2009, the straps were less than $10 about the same time, and the clips came from the partial box of Christophes I bought c.2000 for $5, so - $35, divided by 12 years, equals $2.91. Getting close to the edge of what can be spent!

$60 for the Cannondale (trade, based on actual outlay for bikes traded in)
$20 labor fee to remove horrifically stuck seatpost
$10 for well-used tires
$1 for well-used rear brake pads
$2.91 for very well-used pedals, clips & straps
$0 for bottle cage, 130 mm rear axle, Shimano bar-end shifters, shift boss cable stops and shift cables and housings (scavenged goods)

$93.91 so far

But what's a post without pix?



Drive side

Surprisingly comfortable "cockpit"

Non-drive side, long and lean

Rack mounts

Don't think that's a standard head tube emblem!

From the little taste of up and down the street in front of the house I managed today in the course of making adjustments, I think I'm really going to like this bike. The 32 mm Paselas help that, of course. Hopefully tomorrow I can start getting my 100 km!

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Old 05-31-21, 04:17 PM
  #361  
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Is that a centerpull stop? Were there cantilever bosses at one time?
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Old 05-31-21, 04:27 PM
  #362  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Is that a centerpull stop? Were there cantilever bosses at one time?
The 1986 Cannondale catalog shows what looks like this combination center pull/cantilever stop and rack mount on everything that wasn't marketed as a road racing bike. There are no signs of cantilever bosses on this frame. The Dia-Compe GX500N sidepulls are one of the few parts on this bike that I think are original.
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Old 05-31-21, 05:59 PM
  #363  
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I have started my 2nd clunker this year it is a older 10 speed Columbia. There is a auto body shop down the road from me that closed down 5 years ago, the owner passed away last year and the family is cleaning the place up now. I stopped and asked if there were any old bike there they had 3 to get rid of, the Columbia was the best of the 3, I am not sure what the other 2 are. I think the tan one may be a 26 inch Schwinn at least the tires and wheels are, I have no idea on the ladies bike. the tan bike and ladies bike were already on the scrap metal trailer, they gave me all 3 bikes free. I have cleaned up the Columbia lubed the cables and derailers and patched the front tube. I swapped bars and stem with the tan bike because the have a lot less rust. I found a former owners last name and drivers license engraved into the stem. So far my only cost is a patch for there front tube. I have had the bike out for a few short rides and am at 35 miles, I am going to stop at 100 km on this one.









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Old 06-01-21, 06:54 AM
  #364  
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Better than I expected!

Work and life schedules and cycling - and most especially Clunker Challenge cycling - don't always play well together. So I rose earlier than I find ideal and got out on the bike this morning around 6:00 a.m. It's truly freaky to ride a bike in South Carolina on June 1 and be grateful for tights, wool arm warmers and full-fingered gloves! Because I've been slack and watching my mid-section spread much of this year, I settled for 11.8 km before breakfast, riding hamster-on-a-wheel laps around the neighborhood. All of the due diligence tweaking yesterday paid off, as the only time I stopped was to pull in long enough to switch to the aforementioned gloves. The bike ran smoothly and well, with Strava recording what may be my fastest time yet down the sharp little incline near the church end of the street. My only mechanical quibbles are (1) I may want to raise my saddle perhaps as much as 1 cm, maybe, and (2) I will lubricate the actual bar end shifters themselves, possibly loosening up the pivot screws to make sure they're not binding. Only 88.2 km to go!
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Old 06-01-21, 07:02 AM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
Work and life schedules and cycling - and most especially Clunker Challenge cycling - don't always play well together. So I rose earlier than I find ideal and got out on the bike this morning around 6:00 a.m. It's truly freaky to ride a bike in South Carolina on June 1 and be grateful for tights, wool arm warmers and full-fingered gloves! Because I've been slack and watching my mid-section spread much of this year, I settled for 11.8 km before breakfast, riding hamster-on-a-wheel laps around the neighborhood. All of the due diligence tweaking yesterday paid off, as the only time I stopped was to pull in long enough to switch to the aforementioned gloves. The bike ran smoothly and well, with Strava recording what may be my fastest time yet down the sharp little incline near the church end of the street. My only mechanical quibbles are (1) I may want to raise my saddle perhaps as much as 1 cm, maybe, and (2) I will lubricate the actual bar end shifters themselves, possibly loosening up the pivot screws to make sure they're not binding. Only 88.2 km to go!
We were talking (teachers here early) about how we got a bit of a small cold bump here in SC...feels good to me. I think I might do the same tomorrow (though it'll be 5:00 not 6:00)
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Old 06-01-21, 07:02 AM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by Oldsledz View Post
I don't think I've EVER seen a Columbia with Simplex derailleurs and Weinmann sidepulls before! Cool alloy high-flange hubs, too! I'm used to seeing the stamped steel sidepull calipers, stamped steel hubs and Shimano Eagle derailleurs on BMA/6 type bikes - though my father briefly owned a 26 x 1 3/8-in tire, Huret Allvit-equipped Western Flyer courtesy the Western Auto store ...
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Old 06-01-21, 08:43 AM
  #367  
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With the build complete minus the front derailleur, the test ride was ready. First though the pump umbrella and the cable clamp guides to go along with the geometry leads to an awkward position of hand when carrying, so I have to be careful with my "trick wrist".

The first impression, even though the saddle is jacked the bike gives a feeling of upright, compared to bikes of the middle late 80's, that's good. I attribute that to fork clearance, a high and short stem. My PR10-L has very steep angles seat tube of 74'-75' and a steeper headtube. With those angles and a 23"/58.5mm toptube I slammed the very very soft saddle all the way back on the rails.

So on the bike I feel upright, like the Lion yoga position, with the sharp angle of the headtube I expected the Peugeot to be twitchy. I was wrong, don't get me wrong it steers very quick but the wheel base tames the savage beast. It feels like riding a dart, this thing rides straight, so I try the hands free. I release my grip, to my pleasure there is no dive to a side, I didn't have to get funky with my balance to maintain.

I'm two blocks into the ride, my first shift with a plastic Simplex rear derailleur in 35+ years. Yippie! It shifts, that was the same feeling I had back then (that bike was a Falcon). I proceed to take the first hill, it has big gears , and coast on down. I shift to higher gear, my new chain from the KHS is working very well with the Suntour Perfect 14-30 freewheel.

The brakes get their first test, the front is spongy, the back works great! The back brakes screams get outa way, a, a real attention getter. I get to the second hill, about 3 miles in the test, I shift to gear #2 and climb a medium grade hill, things are great! Then came the rain, all is well, it passes. I continue to a very scenic road. I have no front derailleur so I do a suicide shift, hand shift to the big ring. I get to the area where open up my speed and I noticed the front end getting squirrelly, yep first ride, first flat. I end up walking home 2 miles of an 8 mile spin.

ah dang!

Details






My pedals are a Green Manilisha

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Old 06-01-21, 09:34 AM
  #368  
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I say the 2 miles counts toward the goal...

Suicide shift...good thing no burrs on the chain...


Originally Posted by Mr. 66 View Post

With the build complete minus the front derailleur, the test ride was ready. First though the pump umbrella and the cable clamp guides to go along with the geometry leads to an awkward position of hand when carrying, so I have to be careful with my "trick wrist".

The first impression, even though the saddle is jacked the bike gives a feeling of upright, compared to bikes of the middle late 80's, that's good. I attribute that to fork clearance, a high and short stem. My PR10-L has very steep angles seat tube of 74'-75' and a steeper headtube. With those angles and a 23"/58.5mm toptube I slammed the very very soft saddle all the way back on the rails.

So on the bike I feel upright, like the Lion yoga position, with the sharp angle of the headtube I expected the Peugeot to be twitchy. I was wrong, don't get me wrong it steers very quick but the wheel base tames the savage beast. It feels like riding a dart, this thing rides straight, so I try the hands free. I release my grip, to my pleasure there is no dive to a side, I didn't have to get funky with my balance to maintain.

I'm two blocks into the ride, my first shift with a plastic Simplex rear derailleur in 35+ years. Yippie! It shifts, that was the same feeling I had back then (that bike was a Falcon). I proceed to take the first hill, it has big gears , and coast on down. I shift to higher gear, my new chain from the KHS is working very well with the Suntour Perfect 14-30 freewheel.

The brakes get their first test, the front is spongy, the back works great! The back brakes screams get outa way, a, a real attention getter. I get to the second hill, about 3 miles in the test, I shift to gear #2 and climb a medium grade hill, things are great! Then came the rain, all is well, it passes. I continue to a very scenic road. I have no front derailleur so I do a suicide shift, hand shift to the big ring. I get to the area where open up my speed and I noticed the front end getting squirrelly, yep first ride, first flat. I end up walking home 2 miles of an 8 mile spin.

ah dang!

Details






My pedals are a Green Manilisha
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Old 06-01-21, 09:58 AM
  #369  
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Trying to remember my Dancing Chain - wasn't the classical trick to carry a short metal rod with a hooked end in your jersey pocket? Use to hook to help shift up, just use it like a metal finger for downshifts?

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Old 06-01-21, 10:10 AM
  #370  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
Trying to remember my Dancing Chain - wasnít the classical trick to carry a short metal rod with a hooked end in your jersey pocket? Use to hook to help shift up, just use it like a metal finger for downshifts?
Metal tire lever...? The full extent of my past stupidity was hands on tires if I thought I picked up glass, and pull on the cables for a shift, and one time to unstick a brake...
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Old 06-01-21, 10:13 AM
  #371  
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Metal tire lever might actually work - a more sharply bent hook might work better for chain pickup, unless one gets skillful with the little hooky-slot meant to lock into a spoke... I may experiment with that some time just out of cussedness.

Or we can look expectantly at Mr 66 ...
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Old 06-01-21, 11:52 AM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Health first, Clunker second! Best wishes to Ms. Non-fixie
Originally Posted by tyler_fred View Post
Best wishes to Mrs NF for a speedy recovery.
Originally Posted by hazetguy View Post
I'll be thinking good thoughts for Ms. Non-Fixie. Back pain can really suck.
Thank you, guys, on behalf of mrs non-fixie! And I am sure they helped, as things are really getting better quickly, and the past couple of days the old gal has been back on a bike, albeit for a couple of short-ish rides, and still medicated.

Now I have to get her to ride that crusty France-Sport for at least 100k ...
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Old 06-01-21, 12:32 PM
  #373  
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The past week of the project has been almost exactly like watching paint dry for me. I've done a bit of clean up on the wheels...more rust removal, pulled the axles for degreasing. The bearings had surprisingly good grease. The bike was obviously overhauled shortly before its 10 years of sitting out in the rain.

I've had the chain soaking in EvapoRust for about two weeks. I pulled it out a couple of times this weekend for a good scrubbing with a wire brush. I think it may actually get to the point where it will look decent. As I think I mentioned earlier, it's a modern KMC Z-series chain. It was probably recently installed just before the bike was abandoned to the elements. I don't really think it'll loosen up enough to be useable. Even though it looks mostly rust-free now, there are still a lot of very stiff links. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and now it's soaking in oil. I've already got a new chain waiting to go on, but I kind of want to test the limits of what's possible since I have to give the paint time to dry anyway.

One of the things I wasn't expecting from the second year of COVID-19 is the poor state of the local bike non-profits. Usually you can stop by a pick up things like used tires, sometimes even wheels, for cheap. This weekend one of them was closed completely (they're open one night a week for "curbside service") and the other had only a single 27" tire, and it was new and knobby, but they did have a bin with some old top tube cable guides. I scored one generic Shimano guide, one Dura-Ace, and one Huret for a dollar a piece.

For some reason I was certain that the bike's original wheels took 700c tires, but as I was looking at one of them I saw that the rim tape was labeled with a size.



That seemed like nonsense (or, at least, I wanted it to be), so I grabbed a 700c tire for a test fit. It was too small. Yep, the wheels take 27" tires. I can live with that.

The budget so far is looking like this:

Initial bike investment: $0
Paint: $7.50 (half a can of primer and a can of color)
Decals: $9
Chain: $9
Tires: $32!! (had to order new ones, but I was able to get free shipping)
Dropout screws: $1
Cable guides: $3

So, $61.50 spent so far.

I'm almost certainly going to need a replacement freewheel, as the original part isn't freewheeling despite weeks of repeated assaults with oil and vinegar (the latter of which took off the gold flake when it was done with the rust) and PB Blaster. That'll add another $20 to my budget. I've got a good stock of bulk cables and housing, so I should be able to keep that under $10. I was able to salvage all of the non-consumable components (minus the saddle, which I chronicled earlier), though the arm of the front brake seems to be bent. If I dip into my store of used bar tape, I should be able to finish it off with around $10 to spare. Maybe I'll spend that on new brake pads.
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Old 06-01-21, 01:58 PM
  #374  
non-fixie 
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Well, I got mrs non-fixie to do a trial fit and short ride around the block on the France-Sport. 780m, according to Strava. 99.220m to go.

I am not unhappy. The bike fits, brakes, shifts, and complaints were within acceptable limits. To me anyway. I may have to replace the cheap saddle along the way.

So far I have calculated costs at close to $75, so there is some wiggle room, maybe for a blown tire, or even a very cheap leather saddle.


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Old 06-01-21, 02:07 PM
  #375  
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At least you HaVE a non profit...we donít have any. Well, I am sort of a non-profit with all of the money I laid out for student fixer uppers for the giveaway.

at least this challenge is keeping me from going crazy like I did with some of the kids bikes!

Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
The past week of the project has been almost exactly like watching paint dry for me. I've done a bit of clean up on the wheels...more rust removal, pulled the axles for degreasing. The bearings had surprisingly good grease. The bike was obviously overhauled shortly before its 10 years of sitting out in the rain.

I've had the chain soaking in EvapoRust for about two weeks. I pulled it out a couple of times this weekend for a good scrubbing with a wire brush. I think it may actually get to the point where it will look decent. As I think I mentioned earlier, it's a modern KMC Z-series chain. It was probably recently installed just before the bike was abandoned to the elements. I don't really think it'll loosen up enough to be useable. Even though it looks mostly rust-free now, there are still a lot of very stiff links. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and now it's soaking in oil. I've already got a new chain waiting to go on, but I kind of want to test the limits of what's possible since I have to give the paint time to dry anyway.

One of the things I wasn't expecting from the second year of COVID-19 is the poor state of the local bike non-profits. Usually you can stop by a pick up things like used tires, sometimes even wheels, for cheap. This weekend one of them was closed completely (they're open one night a week for "curbside service") and the other had only a single 27" tire, and it was new and knobby, but they did have a bin with some old top tube cable guides. I scored one generic Shimano guide, one Dura-Ace, and one Huret for a dollar a piece.

For some reason I was certain that the bike's original wheels took 700c tires, but as I was looking at one of them I saw that the rim tape was labeled with a size.



That seemed like nonsense (or, at least, I wanted it to be), so I grabbed a 700c tire for a test fit. It was too small. Yep, the wheels take 27" tires. I can live with that.

The budget so far is looking like this:

Initial bike investment: $0
Paint: $7.50 (half a can of primer and a can of color)
Decals: $9
Chain: $9
Tires: $32!! (had to order new ones, but I was able to get free shipping)
Dropout screws: $1
Cable guides: $3

So, $61.50 spent so far.

I'm almost certainly going to need a replacement freewheel, as the original part isn't freewheeling despite weeks of repeated assaults with oil and vinegar (the latter of which took off the gold flake when it was done with the rust) and PB Blaster. That'll add another $20 to my budget. I've got a good stock of bulk cables and housing, so I should be able to keep that under $10. I was able to salvage all of the non-consumable components (minus the saddle, which I chronicled earlier), though the arm of the front brake seems to be bent. If I dip into my store of used bar tape, I should be able to finish it off with around $10 to spare. Maybe I'll spend that on new brake pads.
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