Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Find of a lifetime?!?! I could REALLY use help from the experts

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Find of a lifetime?!?! I could REALLY use help from the experts

Old 05-05-21, 07:11 PM
  #51  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 9,818

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 195 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3046 Post(s)
Liked 2,615 Times in 1,707 Posts
@b_dub

That seat stay is of almost no concern unless you plan on hammering on this for hours on end non stop.

A good frame builder should be able to straighten that out very easily.
merziac is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 07:35 PM
  #52  
big chainring 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wilmette, IL
Posts: 7,129
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 690 Post(s)
Liked 489 Times in 253 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post
Does anybody have one eating dust that I could make use of? 😎
George Garner in Northbrook has one I'm sure. If you brought that bike into them they may just repair for no charge. They like seeing the old stuff.
big chainring is offline  
Likes For big chainring:
Old 05-05-21, 07:46 PM
  #53  
Wileyone 
Senior Member
 
Wileyone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: GWN
Posts: 2,514
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1801 Post(s)
Liked 547 Times in 373 Posts
Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...which features are hidden ? Of course, from here, I cannot see them, but it does appear to be a pretty straightforward frame assembly, with lugless fillet brazing a the joints, and there doesn't appear to be much detail in the fork crown or the rear dropouts. Again, I'm tellling you this as a favor, removing PC from an entire frame and fork like that is probably better accomplished by someone with a media blast operation.

The strippers that will work are relatively high in toxicity, and in my own life, I kind of draw the line somewhere before those. But I'm happy you are happy with it.
The joints on the frame look more like they were welded and not fillet braed.
Wileyone is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 08:43 PM
  #54  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 9,818

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 195 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3046 Post(s)
Liked 2,615 Times in 1,707 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post
Does anybody have one eating dust that I could make use of? 😎
I have one and despite thinking I understand something about the way it works, I have had very little luck with it. Pretty sure they quit making it for fairly good reason like screwing frames up so it couldn't fix them in the wrong hands.

I need to revisit when I have time to really think the process through, it seems fairly straightforward but for me not so much, yet.
merziac is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 10:09 PM
  #55  
Johno59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 775

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 308 Post(s)
Liked 278 Times in 151 Posts
If the original badge was metal it would have had tiny rivets securing it to the head tube. If you get a badge just glue it on - forget about the rivets. The color in the numeral seven in the serial # suggests blue was the original color - but it is immaterial now. Don't use those cotter pins again - perhaps the one on the right is ok (ex-Raleigh?) but the LHS one in the foto is cheap modern junk. Get some old pins and file them to suit. Folks on here have plenty of proper American pins.
The bent frame can be cold set by someone who knows what they are doing. Like someone said above - most will do it for nothing on such a vintage. It would take only a few minutes and would leave no marks.
I would suggest a flip-flop hub for the rear wheel. One side fixed and other side free-wheel.
Your bike originally had front rear brakes - suggests it was not a pure track bike so a more street friendly setup would be true in kind. Put brakes on it - no brakes is illegal in most places outside of the US (despite what folks insist otherwise) and your bike originally had front and back.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 05:05 AM
  #56  
pastorbobnlnh 
Freewheel Medic
 
pastorbobnlnh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NH Mountains NW of Concord & Mid-GA Coast!
Posts: 11,977

Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales, & a Lonely '83 Santana Tandem (* Ed.)

Mentioned: 107 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 870 Post(s)
Liked 622 Times in 352 Posts
This is the Superior Badge I hope I can locate and provide.



I also mentioned earlier, that I have the wheels to this Superior which has a SA AW dated '49.



But I completely forget what the front hub is, but I believe it is original. The wheels are the Schwinn odd sized 26 X 1 3/8. 597mm (not 590mm), IIRC. Let me know if these are of interest. I know you mentioned wanting to ride it as a fixie/track, but these wheels would provide an alternative. I passed the brake calipers and levers along to someone a few years back.

__________________
Bob
Dreaming about riding in NH's summertime while enjoying the GA coast for the remainder of the year!

Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com




pastorbobnlnh is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 06:17 AM
  #57  
TugaDude
Senior Member
 
TugaDude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,873
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 406 Post(s)
Liked 368 Times in 267 Posts
As Johno59, said, make sure to put brakes on it. At least a front brake. I ride fixed pretty often and trust me, you'll need a front brake. Some don't use a rear brake on fixed gear bikes, but I always have. Yes, you can slow down by adding back pressure, but a brake still helps.
I do like to ride and see if I can complete my trip without using brakes at all. Many times I've been successful in doing just that. But I would never be without them.
TugaDude is offline  
Likes For TugaDude:
Old 05-06-21, 12:12 PM
  #58  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
This is the Superior Badge I hope I can locate and provide.



I also mentioned earlier, that I have the wheels to this Superior which has a SA AW dated '49.



But I completely forget what the front hub is, but I believe it is original. The wheels are the Schwinn odd sized 26 X 1 3/8. 597mm (not 590mm), IIRC. Let me know if these are of interest. I know you mentioned wanting to ride it as a fixie/track, but these wheels would provide an alternative. I passed the brake calipers and levers along to someone a few years back.

PM sent
__________________
b dub is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 12:17 PM
  #59  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by TugaDude View Post
As Johno59, said, make sure to put brakes on it. At least a front brake. I ride fixed pretty often and trust me, you'll need a front brake. Some don't use a rear brake on fixed gear bikes, but I always have. Yes, you can slow down by adding back pressure, but a brake still helps.
I do like to ride and see if I can complete my trip without using brakes at all. Many times I've been successful in doing just that. But I would never be without them.
Did I ever say I wasnít going to ride with brakes? 😜
In all seriousness I will want to add / install front and rear brakes.
This might be as a 3 speed or fixed.
b dub is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 01:43 PM
  #60  
TugaDude
Senior Member
 
TugaDude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,873
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 406 Post(s)
Liked 368 Times in 267 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post
Did I ever say I wasnít going to ride with brakes? 😜
In all seriousness I will want to add / install front and rear brakes.
This might be as a 3 speed or fixed.
The reason we're making a point about it is that some are tempted to run brakeless. And the initial picture of the bike is showing only a rear brake. If you only use one, putting it on the rear is ill-advised, put it on the front.
Brakeless is for track-only in my opinion, but there are some passionate fixed-gear riders who strongly disagree.

Good luck!
TugaDude is offline  
Old 05-07-21, 07:17 AM
  #61  
pastorbobnlnh 
Freewheel Medic
 
pastorbobnlnh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NH Mountains NW of Concord & Mid-GA Coast!
Posts: 11,977

Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales, & a Lonely '83 Santana Tandem (* Ed.)

Mentioned: 107 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 870 Post(s)
Liked 622 Times in 352 Posts
Update: I was able to swing by the storage unit yesterday on the way home from church. I immediately found the wheelset. The front hub is marked "Schwinn" and appears to be aluminum. However, I couldn't spot the frame. I have another unit and it might be there. I hope to stop there after a funeral service on Saturday.

Mrs. PB and I downsized last fall, and 95% of my bike stuff went into storage rather quickly. So patience will be key in locating the head badge.
__________________
Bob
Dreaming about riding in NH's summertime while enjoying the GA coast for the remainder of the year!

Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com




pastorbobnlnh is offline  
Likes For pastorbobnlnh:
Old 05-07-21, 07:29 AM
  #62  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
Update: I was able to swing by the storage unit yesterday on the way home from church. I immediately found the wheelset. The front hub is marked "Schwinn" and appears to be aluminum. However, I couldn't spot the frame. I have another unit and it might be there. I hope to stop there after a funeral service on Saturday.

Mrs. PB and I downsized last fall, and 95% of my bike stuff went into storage rather quickly. So patience will be key in locating the head badge.
My eye is focussed on the price. If it means I have to wait around for it so be it.

Iím always humbled by the generosity of this community.
__________________
b dub is offline  
Likes For b dub:
Old 05-07-21, 09:21 AM
  #63  
3alarmer 
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Big Tomato
Posts: 20,408

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 292 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23100 Post(s)
Liked 6,443 Times in 4,624 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post

3. Is it safe to ride it with the slightly bent seat stay? (How) should it be corrected? I donít want to risk anything.

...a slight bend in the seat stay, like the one you show there, slightly affects the positioning of the rear dropout on that side.

So it's possible someone did that intentionally, in order to level out the dropouts on a frame that was manufactured originally slightly cattywhumpus in that regard. It's also possible that it's just some damage that happened over the years. You need to at least install a properly dished and trued rear wheel in the drops to see where the rim and tyre run in relation to the centerline of the frame, before you make any decisions about straightening it. Any bending of that stay (which is not difficult to do, given the proper tools) ought to be based on the wheel alignment to the theoretical center plane of the bike, so it will ride well.

No, it's not dangerous to ride it as is, and might in fact be preferable. Can't tell right now in the current state.
3alarmer is offline  
Likes For 3alarmer:
Old 05-07-21, 11:43 AM
  #64  
Johno59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 775

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 308 Post(s)
Liked 278 Times in 151 Posts
If you're a heavy rider it needs to be straightened ASAP.
You don't know how rusted the bike was before they gave it a good solid coat of protective paint.
If you hit a real nasty pot hole it could fold on you.
Get it straightened by some old timer it won't take long - a few minutes.
One thing for sure it will not get better with use and there is every reason it will most likely get worse.
If you don't intend to ride it then it doesn't matter.
There are some very knowledgeable frame builders on this forum. They can give you the real skinny on what to do.

Last edited by Johno59; 05-07-21 at 11:47 AM.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 05-07-21, 01:03 PM
  #65  
3alarmer 
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Big Tomato
Posts: 20,408

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 292 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23100 Post(s)
Liked 6,443 Times in 4,624 Posts
Originally Posted by Johno59 View Post
If you're a heavy rider it needs to be straightened ASAP.
...I'm not sure why you feel this way, but I'm sure you have good intentions. I am a heavy rider. I also have quite a bit of experience working on and aligning old frames.
Not sure what you see in that photo that I do not. Unless there's some kind of crease in that stay that is not visible (in which case straightening becomes more problematic), I'd have no trouble building and riding it...if the rear wheel, as stated above centers in the rear triangle as the frame now sits.
Originally Posted by Johno59 View Post
You don't know how rusted the bike was before they gave it a good solid coat of protective paint.
...if rust is the issue, straightening that stay will not make it any safer. Sorry, but it just won't.

Originally Posted by Johno59 View Post
If you hit a real nasty pot hole it could fold on you.
Get it straightened by some old timer it won't take long - a few minutes.
One thing for sure it will not get better with use and there is every reason it will most likely get worse.
If you don't intend to ride it then it doesn't matter.
There are some very knowledgeable frame builders on this forum. They can give you the real skinny on what to do.
...I am one of these hypothetical "old timers". Once more, sometimes a frame gets built and brazed up in such a way that the rear dropouts are a little off, because the stay lengths are a little bit asymmetrical. This results in a frame that will not allow you to get a level, well centered positioning for a properly dished and true rear wheel. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. One of the ways to remedy that is to put a slight bend in one seat stay (making it a little bit "shorter"..thus raising up that dropout just a smidge. Another way is to file the dropout face to allow that side of the wheel to rise in position in the dropout. But that means the slot is wider, so your wheel attachment is slightly less secure.)

None of these are ideal, and it's quite possible that this frame just got pushed in and bent there over its long lifetime.

But since it is possible this presents this way for a functional reason, it ought to be approached in an analytical fashion, with a proper wheel inserted to give you some idea what's going on as you work on it. There's a related phenomenon that happens with forks, where one leg is a little longer than the other. The best correction (although not the easiest one), is to re-arc one of the fork legs over a form, to make it effectively shorter than it is when arced equally.

Honestly, I'm not making this up.
3alarmer is offline  
Likes For 3alarmer:
Old 05-07-21, 03:23 PM
  #66  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 26,813

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1656 Post(s)
Liked 2,029 Times in 1,153 Posts
It was pushed in and bent. It can be pulled out, as with any other frame that isn't heat treated. Simple as that.

Don't know why this forum has been turning small, straightfoward cold-setting repairs into nightmare fuel as of recent.

-Kurt
__________________







cudak888 is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 02:04 AM
  #67  
Johno59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 775

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 308 Post(s)
Liked 278 Times in 151 Posts
Finding a wheel that is true enough to show up a 1mm discrepancy whilst sitting in a near hundred year old horizontal dropout strikes me as a can of worms. I would have thought a straight edge across the bottom of the dropouts and the BB shell would tell you how true the frame was. Gently hold it against a glass door and see if there is a gap under the bent seat stay dropout, maybe two spirit levels/straight edges. A lathe bed would be better but not as common-place.
I have always assumed the straightness of mild steel connecting the top of the seat tube to the rear axle was critical to the seat staying where it was. So if you bend the seat stay to correct wheel alignment, do you then bend the chain stay as well?
Every days a school day.

Last edited by Johno59; 05-08-21 at 02:28 AM.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 08:43 AM
  #68  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 26,813

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1656 Post(s)
Liked 2,029 Times in 1,153 Posts
Yes, on rare occasions, a frame may be built with the dropouts in the wrong plane to each other. But people file the top of the dropout to fix this, they don't kick in the frame tubing.

At any rate, I don't buy into all the conjecture that the frame was bent on purpose. Poppycock. I've had to straighten three frames ('61 Paramount, '52 Raleigh, 1960's Bottecchia) with damage in the same area, so not only is it common, perhaps there's a pattern that leads to the left side stays being more likely to take a whack.

Even if it was the case, I'd still straighten the tube, check the frame for alignment, cold-set the rear triangle if necessary, and then stuff a pair of these dropout alignment tools into the track ends to make sure they're square with each other.







Then, and ONLY THEN would I install a rear wheel and look for misalignment. My bet is that I'd find absolutely no problem.

Even if it turned out - after re-verifying every last alignment measurement for accuracy - that one dropout really IS lower than another, I'd file the top of the lower dropout.

A happy ending, no matter how one slices it.

-Kurt
__________________







cudak888 is offline  
Likes For cudak888:
Old 05-08-21, 09:08 AM
  #69  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
I have to admit I feel slightly overwhelmed with the options and suggestions offered. Donít get me wrong I really appreciate it though. Iíll have to think about it.

Then again this is not one of my commuter frames that canít be out of commission for too long.

Also itís impossible to verify at this point but according to the previous owner the bike was used for track racing, therefore, damage like this makes total sense.
__________________
b dub is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 09:13 AM
  #70  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 26,813

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1656 Post(s)
Liked 2,029 Times in 1,153 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post
I have to admit I feel slightly overwhelmed with the options and suggestions offered. Donít get me wrong I really appreciate it though. Iíll have to think about it.

Then again this is not one of my commuter frames that canít be out of commission for too long.

Also itís impossible to verify at this point but according to the previous owner the bike was used for track racing, therefore, damage like this makes total sense.
@big chainring said to visit George Garner. Do so. All you have to lose is a few bucks for them to make it right.

-Kurt
__________________







cudak888 is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 09:15 AM
  #71  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
@big chainring said to visit George Garner. Do so. All you have to lose is a few bucks for them to make it right.

-Kurt
The voice of reasoning! Will do.
__________________
b dub is offline  
Likes For b dub:
Old 05-08-21, 09:22 AM
  #72  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 26,813

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1656 Post(s)
Liked 2,029 Times in 1,153 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post
The voice of reasoning! Will do.
Good show. Just be a bit wary if anyone pulls out the Park FFS-1 specifically for the stay straightening instead of the SS-1. The FFS-1 is good for pulling the chainstays left and right, but it isn't the right tool to take an S bend out of a chainstay.

-Kurt
__________________







cudak888 is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 09:24 AM
  #73  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Good show. Just be a bit wary if anyone pulls out the Park FFS-1 specifically for the stay straightening instead of the SS-1. The FFS-1 is good for pulling the chainstays left and right, but it isn't the right tool to take an S bend out of a chainstay.

-Kurt
I called them. Iím going to swing by on Monday and weíll see what happens. Thank you Kurt!
__________________
b dub is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 09:28 AM
  #74  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 26,813

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1656 Post(s)
Liked 2,029 Times in 1,153 Posts
Originally Posted by b dub View Post
I called them. I’m going to swing by on Monday and we’ll see what happens. Thank you Kurt!
Sounds good.

FYI, if they won't touch it or can't do it correctly, and if you're willing to cover the shipping to and back, I'd be more than happy to do the straightening for you. If you feel comfortable with that, of course.

-Kurt
__________________







cudak888 is offline  
Old 05-08-21, 09:31 AM
  #75  
b dub 
CL Addict
Thread Starter
 
b dub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,081

Bikes: '50s Leon Cattrysse - late 50s Raleigh Lenton Sports - 1960/61 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix - '72 Canadian Tire Company Supercycle - '74 Raleigh International - '83 Nishiki Cresta - '84 Centurion Turbo - '86 v. Herwerden (Chesini) - '87 Specialized Sirr

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Sounds good.

FYI, if they won't touch it or can't do it correctly, and if you're willing to cover the shipping to and back, I'd be more than happy to do the straightening for you. If you feel comfortable with that, of course.

-Kurt
Really? Hmmm, thatís a possible option too. TBC.
__________________
b dub is offline  
Likes For b dub:

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.