Strongest chain whip?
 

I've got a recalcitrant free wheel I'm trying to spin the cogs off of. My basic flat Park chain whip is bending under load. Part of the problem is that the top 2 cogs seem to be welded together.
They both turn just a bit either way when a whip is on the smallest cog. I haven't found a good way to use 2 whips on adjacent cogs, and I'm still dealing with tool flex. The Park SR-2.3 looks like it would be a little stiffer, and I could use a cheater bar for a little more subtle use of force. Is this as good as it gets for chain whips? Thanks, Woody

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...22993aaae4.jpg

[MENTION=469351]bark_eater[/MENTION] - you may want to describe which FW you are working with. There is a possibility the disassembly is different than you expect. pastorbobnlnh is a great source of information on this topic too.

I have broken chain whips trying to disassemble freewheels. I'm not surprised!
The stronger option is a freewheel cog remover tool, with pins, like this:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c45acb875.jpg

The chain whip will be under less stress if you use it on the bigger cogs, and then the tool with the pins on the smaller cogs, where you have less leverage.

I don't understand exactly what you are doing; sorry.
EDIT: I did some research and understand better! Please ignore my previous comments and carry on!

Its a Shimano 600. I assume the cogs screw off counter clockwise. I need to get my vice more solidly mounted as well.

Can I assume that the freewheel is still mounted on a wheel?

Whenever I've tried to separate cogs on a "free-standing" freewheel, the whips always try to flex, bend and break.

As for separating two smallest cogs, the first thing is to tighten the #2 cog tight enough onto the body so that the smallest cog can be twisted free without the #2 cog itself spinning free.


One trick for removing stubborn threaded cogs is to re-position the whip rotationally after each effort. This induces the cog(s) to flex cyclicly into an oval shape, which is enough to assist with getting the stuck threading to break free.
It works about the same as trying to get a headset top nut tight enough without making a reflector bracket/washer rotate out of alignment during tightening. One can use one hand's palm to hold the bracket from spinning and hold the front wheel steady between the knees, while the other hand turns the wrench. The nut actually "works" tighter with each application of modest torque if the wrench is simply put onto different opposing flats with each go.

Free wheel is off the wheel, but I'm using a Var freewheel vice in my bench vice. My bench and main vice mounting needs some shoring up, but the chain whip is the weakest link right now.

Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Freeze It, etc. application, if you haven't already. I know, it is already covered in grease/chain lube.

Stick it in the freezer overnight or pack it in dry ice.

I will also recommend, knowing that you have a freewheel vise, that you use the vise on the smallest cog and then put the chain whip on the largest. This lessens the load on the whip.

As for the two smallest cogs turning in unison, one could be screwed to the other. This is especially common for cogs smaller than 14t. This is often the hardest thing to take apart, but if you really need to, you can deal with it on its own after it's off the rest of the freewheel.