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Alright C&V bike sleuths, who can identify this Schwinn?

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Alright C&V bike sleuths, who can identify this Schwinn?

Old 06-01-21, 10:22 AM
  #1  
Miradaman
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Alright C&V bike sleuths, who can identify this Schwinn?

Saw this propped curbside in my neighborhood with a FREE sign attached, so I grabbed it. Was pleasantly surprised to discover that despite the “turkey lever” brakes, cheesy foam bar rap, and ill-advised modifications to the frame finish, there was more to this than I was expecting. Namely a fairly light frame, a 12-speed drivetrain of mixed Shimano 105 and 600 components, and 700c wheels. Got it home, pumped up the tires and it rode quite nicely without adjustment. The frame is my size, so I’m going to put some inexpensive tires on it and ride it. The previous owner apparently took pains to remove all the branding graphics, so I have no idea what this is apart from the Schwinn badge. Any clues, anyone?







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Old 06-01-21, 10:43 AM
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Date code on the head badge?
​​​​​​
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Old 06-01-21, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by FBOATSB View Post
Date code on the head badge?
​​​​​​
I don't see one. And I couldn't find a serial number either. Where I think it was beneath the bottom bracket is now a little patch of rust...
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Old 06-01-21, 11:02 AM
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I'll be the first to say it.

I don't think that's the original headbadge for that frame.
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Old 06-01-21, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dylansbob View Post
I'll be the first to say it.

I don't think that's the original headbadge for that frame.
I myself was assuming this was some sort of Frankenbike and not stock. Safety brakes and foam grips paired with higher-end components seems like an odd combination...
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Old 06-01-21, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
I myself was assuming this was some sort of Frankenbike and not stock. Safety brakes and foam grips paired with higher-end components seems like an odd combination...

Parts can always be swapped (even easier than headbadges). Anything that would have used that headbadge would have been either electro-forged or fillet brazed, not lugged. The simple dropouts with claw indicate a low end frame of the 70s to early 80s. I'm not encylcopedic on that era, but I'd guess an Asia source for the frame itself. Maybe a Giant-made Schwinn, maybe not.
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Old 06-01-21, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Dylansbob View Post
Parts can always be swapped (even easier than headbadges). Anything that would have used that headbadge would have been either electro-forged or fillet brazed, not lugged. The simple dropouts with claw indicate a low end frame of the 70s to early 80s. I'm not encylcopedic on that era, but I'd guess an Asia source for the frame itself. Maybe a Giant-made Schwinn, maybe not.
"Low end" is relative, I guess, but it doesn't seem low low end to me. Maybe low-mid range. It's not too heavy (I'd estimate the bike is 27-28 lb as shown) and has a very nice balanced quality feel to it.
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Old 06-01-21, 11:49 AM
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Another clue to the quality is the the rear dropout doesn't have a derailleur hanger. But instead a claw the fits in.

I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.

For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!

I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
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Old 06-01-21, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by habes78023 View Post
Another clue to the quality is the the rear dropout doesn't have a derailleur hanger. But instead a claw the fits in.

I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.

For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!

I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
Good point. But wasn't it common for older bikes not to have derailleur hangers? My vintage Trek 420 doesn't seem to have one. And I thought older low end road bikes got 27" wheels, not 700c? (Not at all trying to argue here, just trying to expand my knowledge base.)
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Old 06-01-21, 12:39 PM
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Check the pic with the chainring.
Now check the frame decal behind the chainring.
If that decal doesn't say 1020 you can club me like a baby seal.
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Old 06-01-21, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit531 View Post
Check the pic with the chainring.
Now check the frame decal behind the chainring.
If that decal doesn't say 1020 you can club me like a baby seal.
ding ding ding! You are correct. So this confirms that, in fact, this is actually a bottom of the barrel frame, despite my initial impressions?
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Old 06-01-21, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit531 View Post
If that decal doesn't say 1020, you can club me like a baby seal.
Yeah, but are you super cute?

With the 105 headset, nice crankset and rear derailleur, this is the perfect bike to part out. Sell the frame for $10 to somebody who wants to learn how to build one up.
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Old 06-01-21, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
Good point. But wasn't it common for older bikes not to have derailleur hangers? My vintage Trek 420 doesn't seem to have one. And I thought older low end road bikes got 27" wheels, not 700c? (Not at all trying to argue here, just trying to expand my knowledge base.)
Yeah, those things are true,

Sometimes it's hard to succinctly say why we think a bike may not be higher end, but just the quick summation of the parts and other clues lead to conclusions pretty quickly.

I think 700c wheels became more common as you moved to the late 70's and early 80's so you can still have a lower level bike with 700c wheels and there's also the chance that 700c wheels get swapped into a 27" frame. The back brake pads are adjusted near the bottom of the reach, front's don't look quite as bad though. I think 700c is probably right for this frame if I had to guess.

Honestly though, It's probably just a lower level bike, but you did get lucky on the components.
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Old 06-01-21, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
Good point. But wasn't it common for older bikes not to have derailleur hangers? My vintage Trek 420 doesn't seem to have one. And I thought older low end road bikes got 27" wheels, not 700c? (Not at all trying to argue here, just trying to expand my knowledge base.)
This bike is not "that" old.

That headbadge "looks" very original, placement, exact location, great condition, etc. but....

27in. wheels was a wildly moving target, as was the claw so...

Paramount's had 27in wheels well into the 70's.
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Old 06-01-21, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
ding ding ding! You are correct. So this confirms that, in fact, this is actually a bottom of the barrel frame, despite my initial impressions?
Correct.
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Old 06-01-21, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by habes78023 View Post
Another clue to the quality is the the rear dropout doesn't have a derailleur hanger. But instead a claw the fits in.

I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.

For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!

I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
I have a thing for beater misfit bikes, so I'm going to get some tires and ride it. If I do decide to part it out, what's the best way of doing it? Disassembling everything, cleaning and selling separately (rather than as one "parts bike")? What price would the parts command?
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Old 06-01-21, 02:16 PM
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Looks like I stand corrected yet again— have some time on my hands so was just now starting to scrub this thing down a bit. Scoured the grime off the rear rim and there's a badge that reads Araya 27 x 1. Which I didn't even realize was a thing. So not 700c after all...
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Old 06-01-21, 02:19 PM
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Just clean it up and ride it until you find a killer deal on a higher-end frame. Then just swap the parts over, give everything a full overhaul, and you'll be set up. Save that old frame for a demolition derby fixie tall bike lake jumper project.
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Old 06-01-21, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by krakhaus View Post
Just clean it up and ride it until you find a killer deal on a higher-end frame. Then just swap the parts over, give everything a full overhaul, and you'll be set up. Save that old frame for a demolition derby fixie tall bike lake jumper project.
That's not a bad idea. I've been wanting to tackle a "build" of some sort...
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Old 06-01-21, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
Looks like I stand corrected yet again— have some time on my hands so was just now starting to scrub this thing down a bit. Scoured the grime off the rear rim and there's a badge that reads Araya 27 x 1. Which I didn't even realize was a thing. So not 700c after all...
Nice, I agree with others and what you are generally leaning towards. Just clean this one up and ride it. Eventually another bike will come along and you can upgrade as you go.

As for parts pricing, check ebay completed listings. None of the parts are that rare or in exceptional condition, so to me it's not really worth the hassle of selling, but I would definitely keep them in the parts bins for when another ride comes along. Keep in mind that all of the parts translating straight over to another bike might not be completely possible, there's different threading and tubing sizes. Some of us, like myself, say we'd keep the parts and use on another bike because we have small stockpiles of parts and can make complete bikes out of them. If this is your only parts bike, then you could get lucky and just swap a frame, or you might end up spending more time finding those correct parts to make the bike 100% together. Also, some of the fun in the hobby is learning these things and taking bikes that were broken and giving them new life from the parts bin.

Have fun and ride!
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Old 06-01-21, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
I don't see one. And I couldn't find a serial number either. Where I think it was beneath the bottom bracket is now a little patch of rust...
Check the NDS DO for the s/n, there is an early LeTour on efbay that has those DO's but it has a 4130 tubing sticker.
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Old 06-01-21, 06:36 PM
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Compare this made in Japan '81 Le Tour to your frame. Look at the seat stay/seat tube lug. The reason they use a shim for the seat post is because there's a weld seam inside the seat tube. Yours doesn't have the same stem shifter cable stops on the down tube unless they were ground off. Those brake levers would have had matching centerpull callipers. Very similar and equally entry level.

Your bike is a perfect candidate for the Clunker Challenge .
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Old 06-01-21, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Check the NDS DO for the s/n, there is an early LeTour on efbay that has those DO's but it has a 4130 tubing sticker.
Yep, there it is. Though when I googled a Schwinn s/n database it wasnt in there...
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Old 06-02-21, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
Yep, there it is. Though when I googled a Schwinn s/n database it wasnt in there...
Maybe one of the numbers experts will weigh in.

The decoders are not all as straight forward as they may seem.
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Old 06-02-21, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Miradaman View Post
Yep, there it is. Though when I googled a Schwinn s/n database it wasnt in there...
That's because it's an Asian format SN. For that you get to go toT-Mar 's Asian SN sticky. I think it's funny the guy missed his mark the first time and just re stamped it sequentially. If that was a coin it would be worth a small fortune
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