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Raleigh Connoisseur
Hi All
I ride Raleighs for may years now. I bought this Coinnesseur many moons ago. AG 4/1982 3 speed https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...84a965e0c6.png It was shiny of burgundy and gold. In need of small tlc. So, it got a small make over to fit my purpose, And it did. Well. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b9eae58db4.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b09e44c5b.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...174658e85c.png That until recently. Its colour faded, its crank lost some bearings [i presume], and last its dropouts got wider. Just envious of its other sibling, the Superbe. And now it in need of a fix. Cannot explain how the dropout got wider from 12mm to 17mm+ But the wheel is getting off.. " Let me out, let me out".. The question is how do i get them into place without creating more damage? I thought of using a tube/pipe but the space between the dropouts is small. Any thoughts? Thanks https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...97d039f3a2.png Cannot make the pic smaller . |
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Originally Posted by juvela
(Post 22179616)
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IN REAR DROPOUT When a rear derailleur is shifted past the inner- most gear and caught by the rear wheel, it can dam- age the axle slot in the right-rear dropout by spread- ing it open. This damage can look very severe and still be re- pairable. Even if cracks are evident before or after, re- pair reliability is not an issue, because the stressed and cracked area does not normally experience any signifi- cant load during riding. The rule of thumb when dealing with this prob- lem is to tell the customer that the frame should be considered a loss, but there is a simple repair that can be attempted that is quite effective as long as the drop- out does not break in two during the repair. There are two tricks to the repair. First, the drop- out must be sandwiched firmly between two surfaces so that it does not collapse sideways while being pushed back. A dropout-alignment tool supplies the necessary support. Second, the hole for the derailleur mounting bolt must be filled to prevent it from collapsing while force is applied to the dropout through the derailleur hanger. The repair is done when the width of the slots in both dropouts are equal. Normal dropout align- ment and derailleur-hanger alignment should be done afterwards. HHmm, dont know what to do with that, but thanks |
I would cautiously apply channelock pliers to close the gap, as per [MENTION=319010]Narhay[/MENTION] in other thread. Clamp the dropout gently (sandwich) to prevent any skewing. Perhaps put a spare axle in the slot as gauge. Just make sure to not mis-align the drops in other directions. Check the width or spread on the rear dropouts with the OLD of the hub to make sure its a good fit.
This should be any easy repair. |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 22180069)
I would cautiously apply channelock pliers to close the gap, as per [MENTION=319010]Narhay[/MENTION] in other thread. Clamp the dropout gently (sandwich) to prevent any skewing. Perhaps put a spare axle in the slot as gauge. Just make sure to not mis-align the drops in other directions. Check the width or spread on the rear dropouts with the OLD of the hub to make sure its a good fit.
This should be any easy repair. Presumed thoughts that steal could not be bend that easily. Thanks . |
Originally Posted by onyerleft
(Post 22180134)
I suggest you take it to a bike shop. We see stuff like this at the bike kitchen where I volunteer, and we're better able to fix it properly than 99% of our customers.
If I dont know how, I just ask. I learn and I can do it myself if the problem reoccur. It's been working that way from the beginning. Hopefully till the end. Far more satisfying. But thanks. |
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