SirMike1983 

Does anyone have a copy of overhaul instructions for the MKS 3000S or 3000R pedals? These are the traditional rubber block type pedals. I suspect the dust cap is pry-off, but I don't want to force it. The cap does not want to unscrew. I figure they're normal cup and cone with loose bearings underneath, but the cap is pretty stubborn. I have a set that could use some better grease.

RustyJames 

Once you undo the nuts I would think the cap lifts off?

For reference…

RustyJames 

I don’t know if your pedals are different but a few wrench turns and VOILA!

SirMike1983 

Rusty - thanks a lot for those. I'll try pulling the whole end plate then. I had been monkeying about with it, trying to see if it was a dust cap that would come off, but it's the whole plate it seems.

RustyJames 

Yup, that should work for you!

I need to lube the bearings in mine. So far, all the new MKS pedals I’ve purchased were woefully lacking lube. I’ve heard this is “a thing”.

SirMike1983 

I've been riding my 3000S pair on my Schwinn 3-speed stock and they've been pretty good so far. They didn't seem tight or dry out of the box. But I'd like to do a status check, and while I'm in there I may as well put in some new grease.

SirMike1983 

Your photo of the pedals was really helpful. I opened up and re-greased two sets of MKS 3000S pedals over the weekend. One set was unused (call it the "control set") and the other had one season of use (the "variable" set, as it were). Both had what I would call "adequate" amounts of grease from the factory. It was not as much as I would have used, but it was OK. The used pedals had a little wear on them, but nothing unusual for one season of use. All bearings and surfaces were still good. The grease was a clear-amber type color and somewhat of a sticky grease rather than a slick grease. It reminded me a little of the old school brown axle grease, but not quite as thick. I re-greased with Lucas green grease, which gave the pedals a freer spin. Getting the cone tension correct was a fiddly job because the lock washer they provide is kind of flimsy when you're tightening down the lock nut. I used an old, large flat-bladed screwdriver as a wedge to hold the cone in place while tightening lock nut. Your photo of the whole end plate coming off was helpful getting me started. I used it, along with a couple of my own photos, on my webpage to post basic instructions for 3000S/3000R rebuilds.

Now I just wish I could buy one or two more sets of 3000S (the non-reflector version) in the 1/2 spindle size.

ThermionicScott 

I just bought a set of MKS BM-7 pedals for my wife's bike, and thought they sounded a bit "dry" when turning them in my hands. After getting a dustcap off, I realized quickly that I don't have all the right wrenches to do a proper rebuild, so I just pushed in more grease from both ends. That made them a bit quieter and smoother, so I hope that does the job until I figure out what tools I need!

RustyJames 

I think I used a wrench on the crank side to hold the spindle and a box end wrench to free the lock nut. I probably used a socket to spin the outside cone out. I can’t remember sizes but if you need those specifics PM me.

RustyJames 

I think I found mine on the ‘bay. Some use but good enough for me!

ThermionicScott 

Yeah, loosening the locknut wasn't going to be a problem, and I almost did. Then I realized I didn't have a good plan to adjust the cones once it was all apart, so I hit "pause" on that. Your idea of using a flat-blade screwdriver to hold the cone in place while tightening the locknut sounds promising. What is the correct tool, like an 11mm cone wrench that is also offset to fit down in there?

RustyJames 

I’ll tear one down in the next few days so I can offer specifics. If you don’t hear from me, PM would be best. I have known to be sidelined easily. SQUIRREL!!

ThermionicScott 

That would be great. I'm the same way.