Official BF Eroica California 2022 Roll Call! Apr. 29-May 1, 2022
#526
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Since I'm only doing the short Piedres Blancas route, I swapped the more modern compact crank for a more OE correct Sugino Mighty crankset with 53/42 rings. Original equipment was probably 151 BCD with a bigger inside ring. Pedals are now OE correct KKT Pro Ace. I can't remember where I got them, but the quills on both sides had severe road rash caused by a previous owner & I hack-sawed the quills off decades ago to make redneck track pedals. With high temps on the 60s on the coast, I may still ditch the water bottle cage on the seat tube and move the pump to clean up the appearance.

I've secured a room in San Simeon for Friday night so I should make it to the Saturday ride from the bike shop. We'll be staying in Cambria at one of the places on Moonstone Beach Drive Saturday and Sunday.

I've secured a room in San Simeon for Friday night so I should make it to the Saturday ride from the bike shop. We'll be staying in Cambria at one of the places on Moonstone Beach Drive Saturday and Sunday.
We are doing the short ride as well. It’s our first Eroica and we didn’t want to do an extended ride on our Wiliers. It should be a great day !
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#527
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Well, the crowd has spoken, so I'll definitely be taking the Carlton Super Python for the lighthouse ride! If anyone around here sees me out there please feel free to say hello. My uncle will be riding the 1972 Raleigh Professional that he restored last year with my assistance, and which I shared at the time. We'll be sticking together I'm sure.
-Gregory
-Gregory

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#528
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Note that this is the forecast for Cambria, which can be quite different from the weather in Paso Robles. As gugie notes, riders headed inland may expect hot temps on Sunday. The forecast I saw for Paso Robles lists a high of 80 degrees with 12 mph winds. I definitely want to try to stay hydrated for that late afternoon push over Cypress during the peak temp time.

#529
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I hope to keep up with you guys so I can hide from that headwind on the way back to Cambria. Maybe team Cinquentas has been lax in their training for this year and I can hang/draft.
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Looks a route change for the Heroic
I just went to download the heroic route and realized they have changed the route. It went from 107 to 97 miles. It looks like we aren't going through Paso Robles now.
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Technical question: tires and tire pressure
I did the Santa Lucia route with a few buddies on modern gravel bikes last July. We all completed with a couple of casualties. Lucky I was unscathed. Mine was a Niner with tubeless Hutchinsons road tires, 700x28. I ran 80psi there about. One of the guys ran conti GT5000 tubeless on carbon zipp. He hit a rock a cracked the wheel so we ended up putting a tube in it so he could finish. The other casualty was a serious wipe out after the cypress climb from another rider who ironically the only rider in the group with knobbies.
This time I’m running Vittoria Zaffiro 700x30 on my 1984 Nishiki Prestige. A friend suggested I should run lower pressure, 70-75 psi. What say you? Also, I have a set of Gatorskin 700x28. Which tire do you think will minimize potential flats?
Thanks
This time I’m running Vittoria Zaffiro 700x30 on my 1984 Nishiki Prestige. A friend suggested I should run lower pressure, 70-75 psi. What say you? Also, I have a set of Gatorskin 700x28. Which tire do you think will minimize potential flats?
Thanks
#532
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I did the Santa Lucia route with a few buddies on modern gravel bikes last July. We all completed with a couple of casualties. Lucky I was unscathed. Mine was a Niner with tubeless Hutchinsons road tires, 700x28. I ran 80psi there about. One of the guys ran conti GT5000 tubeless on carbon zipp. He hit a rock a cracked the wheel so we ended up putting a tube in it so he could finish. The other casualty was a serious wipe out after the cypress climb from another rider who ironically the only rider in the group with knobbies.
This time I’m running Vittoria Zaffiro 700x30 on my 1984 Nishiki Prestige. A friend suggested I should run lower pressure, 70-75 psi. What say you? Also, I have a set of Gatorskin 700x28. Which tire do you think will minimize potential flats?
Thanks
This time I’m running Vittoria Zaffiro 700x30 on my 1984 Nishiki Prestige. A friend suggested I should run lower pressure, 70-75 psi. What say you? Also, I have a set of Gatorskin 700x28. Which tire do you think will minimize potential flats?
Thanks
Rene Herse publishes a tire pressure calculator. It seems like a reasonable tool.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#533
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That is also the long Nova route and they can use the same arrows. If I was a complainer, I’d say they should go back to a 130 mile heroic route. In Italy, they don’t allow old people to do the long route so perhaps they are worried about us old farts in Cambria.
Last edited by Classtime; 04-25-22 at 10:06 AM.
#534
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Santa Rita and Cypress recon
I rode Santa Rita and Cypress on Sunday to see how things looked after some recent light rains we've had along the Central Coast.
Santa Rita: The road is in really fabulous shape and has been tamped down a bit from the recent wetness and regular vehicular traffic. There are just a few drainage channels running across the road, but these are shallow and easily avoidable. It's riding like fast hard pack DG right now.
Cypress: The approach to Cypress after Halter Ranch Winery is Klau Mine Road. This road is in really bad shape (it usually is) with lots of broken pavement and potholes. You need to pick your way through here with care otherwise it can be a bone-jarring experience. The Cypress climb is in good shape. The lower section that runs along the creek is still a bit damp and you need to pick your way through some small rocks on occasion, Otherwise, the condition on the climb looks the same as it did in 2019.
Cypress Descent: This is where care is needed -- I have not seen the descent to Santa Rosa Creek Rd. ever look this bad. For whatever reason the lower sections of the descent (and the steepest) are really torn up until you get the pavement of Santa Rosa Creek Rd. Take it really careful here! I was on a gravel bike with 40mm tires and hydraulic brakes and I thought it was sketchy on that bike.
Have a great ride everyone!

Santa Rita Rd.
Santa Rita: The road is in really fabulous shape and has been tamped down a bit from the recent wetness and regular vehicular traffic. There are just a few drainage channels running across the road, but these are shallow and easily avoidable. It's riding like fast hard pack DG right now.
Cypress: The approach to Cypress after Halter Ranch Winery is Klau Mine Road. This road is in really bad shape (it usually is) with lots of broken pavement and potholes. You need to pick your way through here with care otherwise it can be a bone-jarring experience. The Cypress climb is in good shape. The lower section that runs along the creek is still a bit damp and you need to pick your way through some small rocks on occasion, Otherwise, the condition on the climb looks the same as it did in 2019.
Cypress Descent: This is where care is needed -- I have not seen the descent to Santa Rosa Creek Rd. ever look this bad. For whatever reason the lower sections of the descent (and the steepest) are really torn up until you get the pavement of Santa Rosa Creek Rd. Take it really careful here! I was on a gravel bike with 40mm tires and hydraulic brakes and I thought it was sketchy on that bike.
Have a great ride everyone!

Santa Rita Rd.
Last edited by keithdunlop; 04-25-22 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Typo
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#535
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Thanks for the scouting report!
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#536
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keithdunlop What a great and dramatic photo. Thanks for the road report.
#537
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Never make changes right before an event.
Last weekend I swapped a modern compact crank for a period-correct Sugino Mighty on my Nishiki Pro. I took it out on a 40 mile ride and all was well. Yesterday I went out again, and after a while I started hearing a creaking noise from the drivetrain. I looked down and the left crank arm is loose, and when I stopped, the bolt was gone. Bad, for sure, but worse if it had come off. I was stopped at the entrance to a gravel quarry & found a smooth baseball sized river rock, picked up a piece of cardboard from roadside trash (thanks, local rednecks) to use as a cushion, and tapped the crank arm in place. I one-legged it 8 miles back to the second-closest LBS (my favorite), got a new bolt, and used their shop wrench to tighten it. About 2 miles from home it had loosened again and I one-legged it home.
I've been riding and servicing square taper cranks since 1975, including a couple of years during college working at the LBS, have never used a torque wrench on a vintage bike and never had a crank come loose like this. I understand the science of why it's nearly always the left arm that loosens, but the torque wrench in my elbow that says "that's about right" has served me well up to now.
This crankset is one of the most-used square taper ones I own and I'm sure it was removed and reinstalled several times to service the bottom bracket or move to a different bike, but has been unused for about 20 years. The crank arm doesn't appear to be galled or deformed. I have a micrometer/click-type torque wrench that I use for my modern bike and other things. Park Tool says torque the crank bolt to 300-450 in-lbs. I've reinstalled the crank and torqued both sides to the Park Tool spec, and that's noticeably more than my seat-of-the pants torque value. Lesson learned, I guess.
Now I'm concerned about taking the Nishiki to to Cambria, even for the short Piedras Blancas route I'm planning to ride, so I'm going to take a ride on it today and check the left arm every few miles. Any doubts and I'll change to another bike that would only need pedals changed.
gugie , I hope nothing like this never happened on your Super Course!
Last weekend I swapped a modern compact crank for a period-correct Sugino Mighty on my Nishiki Pro. I took it out on a 40 mile ride and all was well. Yesterday I went out again, and after a while I started hearing a creaking noise from the drivetrain. I looked down and the left crank arm is loose, and when I stopped, the bolt was gone. Bad, for sure, but worse if it had come off. I was stopped at the entrance to a gravel quarry & found a smooth baseball sized river rock, picked up a piece of cardboard from roadside trash (thanks, local rednecks) to use as a cushion, and tapped the crank arm in place. I one-legged it 8 miles back to the second-closest LBS (my favorite), got a new bolt, and used their shop wrench to tighten it. About 2 miles from home it had loosened again and I one-legged it home.
I've been riding and servicing square taper cranks since 1975, including a couple of years during college working at the LBS, have never used a torque wrench on a vintage bike and never had a crank come loose like this. I understand the science of why it's nearly always the left arm that loosens, but the torque wrench in my elbow that says "that's about right" has served me well up to now.
This crankset is one of the most-used square taper ones I own and I'm sure it was removed and reinstalled several times to service the bottom bracket or move to a different bike, but has been unused for about 20 years. The crank arm doesn't appear to be galled or deformed. I have a micrometer/click-type torque wrench that I use for my modern bike and other things. Park Tool says torque the crank bolt to 300-450 in-lbs. I've reinstalled the crank and torqued both sides to the Park Tool spec, and that's noticeably more than my seat-of-the pants torque value. Lesson learned, I guess.
Now I'm concerned about taking the Nishiki to to Cambria, even for the short Piedras Blancas route I'm planning to ride, so I'm going to take a ride on it today and check the left arm every few miles. Any doubts and I'll change to another bike that would only need pedals changed.
gugie , I hope nothing like this never happened on your Super Course!
#538
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Never make changes right before an event.
Last weekend I swapped a modern compact crank for a period-correct Sugino Mighty on my Nishiki Pro. I took it out on a 40 mile ride and all was well. Yesterday I went out again, and after a while I started hearing a creaking noise from the drivetrain. I looked down and the left crank arm is loose, and when I stopped, the bolt was gone. Bad, for sure, but worse if it had come off. I was stopped at the entrance to a gravel quarry & found a smooth baseball sized river rock, picked up a piece of cardboard from roadside trash (thanks, local rednecks) to use as a cushion, and tapped the crank arm in place. I one-legged it 8 miles back to the second-closest LBS (my favorite), got a new bolt, and used their shop wrench to tighten it. About 2 miles from home it had loosened again and I one-legged it home.
I've been riding and servicing square taper cranks since 1975, including a couple of years during college working at the LBS, have never used a torque wrench on a vintage bike and never had a crank come loose like this. I understand the science of why it's nearly always the left arm that loosens, but the torque wrench in my elbow that says "that's about right" has served me well up to now.
This crankset is one of the most-used square taper ones I own and I'm sure it was removed and reinstalled several times to service the bottom bracket or move to a different bike, but has been unused for about 20 years. The crank arm doesn't appear to be galled or deformed. I have a micrometer/click-type torque wrench that I use for my modern bike and other things. Park Tool says torque the crank bolt to 300-450 in-lbs. I've reinstalled the crank and torqued both sides to the Park Tool spec, and that's noticeably more than my seat-of-the pants torque value. Lesson learned, I guess.
Now I'm concerned about taking the Nishiki to to Cambria, even for the short Piedras Blancas route I'm planning to ride, so I'm going to take a ride on it today and check the left arm every few miles. Any doubts and I'll change to another bike that would only need pedals changed.
gugie , I hope nothing like this never happened on your Super Course!
Last weekend I swapped a modern compact crank for a period-correct Sugino Mighty on my Nishiki Pro. I took it out on a 40 mile ride and all was well. Yesterday I went out again, and after a while I started hearing a creaking noise from the drivetrain. I looked down and the left crank arm is loose, and when I stopped, the bolt was gone. Bad, for sure, but worse if it had come off. I was stopped at the entrance to a gravel quarry & found a smooth baseball sized river rock, picked up a piece of cardboard from roadside trash (thanks, local rednecks) to use as a cushion, and tapped the crank arm in place. I one-legged it 8 miles back to the second-closest LBS (my favorite), got a new bolt, and used their shop wrench to tighten it. About 2 miles from home it had loosened again and I one-legged it home.
I've been riding and servicing square taper cranks since 1975, including a couple of years during college working at the LBS, have never used a torque wrench on a vintage bike and never had a crank come loose like this. I understand the science of why it's nearly always the left arm that loosens, but the torque wrench in my elbow that says "that's about right" has served me well up to now.
This crankset is one of the most-used square taper ones I own and I'm sure it was removed and reinstalled several times to service the bottom bracket or move to a different bike, but has been unused for about 20 years. The crank arm doesn't appear to be galled or deformed. I have a micrometer/click-type torque wrench that I use for my modern bike and other things. Park Tool says torque the crank bolt to 300-450 in-lbs. I've reinstalled the crank and torqued both sides to the Park Tool spec, and that's noticeably more than my seat-of-the pants torque value. Lesson learned, I guess.
Now I'm concerned about taking the Nishiki to to Cambria, even for the short Piedras Blancas route I'm planning to ride, so I'm going to take a ride on it today and check the left arm every few miles. Any doubts and I'll change to another bike that would only need pedals changed.
gugie , I hope nothing like this never happened on your Super Course!

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#539
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SpaghettiLegs, please take note
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Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#540
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gugie , I hope nothing like this never happened on your Super Course!

__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#541
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Straightblock, Use hex head crank arm bolts so any multitool will give you peice of mind. A 14mm socket wrench is a bit bulky.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#542
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From the Eroica site: "We want people to rediscover the beauty of fatigue and the taste of accomplishment: the heroic cycling of Bartali and Coppi and the sacrifice that seeks out our physical boundaries where thirst, hunger, and exhaustion are felt with all their strength."
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#543
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I had to google Type III fun.
"What does Type 3 Fun mean?
Explained: Type III fun is never fun while you're doing it, you often feel your life is threatened, certain doom is usually at hand, and half the time it ends in a harrowing rescue. Afterwards, you swear to never attempt anything similar ever again."
"What does Type 3 Fun mean?
Explained: Type III fun is never fun while you're doing it, you often feel your life is threatened, certain doom is usually at hand, and half the time it ends in a harrowing rescue. Afterwards, you swear to never attempt anything similar ever again."
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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#544
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After long flights and drives, then putting our bikes back together, I'd like to go for a short ride to get the kinks out of my body and bike. In 2018 and 2019 myself and several others did just that. From Velo Cambria to Sebastian's in San Simeon it's 9 miles, 18 round trip.

18 miles round trip, 700 feet of gentle rolling hill climbing. Optional lunch at Sebastian's in San Simeon.
Proposing an 11am start from Velo Cambria, gets us back in time to register, sniff around the booths before and after the ride, and do the 3 S's before dinner.
Great time to meet other BFer's!

18 miles round trip, 700 feet of gentle rolling hill climbing. Optional lunch at Sebastian's in San Simeon.
Proposing an 11am start from Velo Cambria, gets us back in time to register, sniff around the booths before and after the ride, and do the 3 S's before dinner.
Great time to meet other BFer's!

So is this ride still on? Even though I'll be doing the Peidros Blancas ride on Sunday (maybe even extending to Ragged Point if I'm feeling the love), I think a warm-up Saturday jaunt to San Simeon with a bunch of C&Vers sounds like a very fine idea. So unless someone calls off the dogs, I plan to be at Velo Cambria on Saturday by 10:45 or so. I'm looking forward to a great weekend that I was afraid I was going to have to miss.
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#545
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I only switch out cranks when there is an entire bike attached.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
#546
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It looks like I'm a "go" for this weekend.
Color me pleased and a bit surprised.
So is this ride still on? Even though I'll be doing the Peidros Blancas ride on Sunday (maybe even extending to Ragged Point if I'm feeling the love), I think a warm-up Saturday jaunt to San Simeon with a bunch of C&Vers sounds like a very fine idea. So unless someone calls off the dogs, I plan to be at Velo Cambria on Saturday by 10:45 or so. I'm looking forward to a great weekend that I was afraid I was going to have to miss.

So is this ride still on? Even though I'll be doing the Peidros Blancas ride on Sunday (maybe even extending to Ragged Point if I'm feeling the love), I think a warm-up Saturday jaunt to San Simeon with a bunch of C&Vers sounds like a very fine idea. So unless someone calls off the dogs, I plan to be at Velo Cambria on Saturday by 10:45 or so. I'm looking forward to a great weekend that I was afraid I was going to have to miss.
Saturday 11am start still on.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#547
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I had to google Type III fun.
"What does Type 3 Fun mean?
Explained: Type III fun is never fun while you're doing it, you often feel your life is threatened, certain doom is usually at hand, and half the time it ends in a harrowing rescue. Afterwards, you swear to never attempt anything similar ever again."
"What does Type 3 Fun mean?
Explained: Type III fun is never fun while you're doing it, you often feel your life is threatened, certain doom is usually at hand, and half the time it ends in a harrowing rescue. Afterwards, you swear to never attempt anything similar ever again."
This year, I haven't done anything longer than 55 miles and on the 55 mile ride I took a bailout option to avoid some of the planned climbing. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do at Eroica. My plan is to ride to the top of Santa Rita and then evaluate my physical condition before either continuing on to Cypress or turning around and heading back to Cambria. Even in the best shape I've ever been in I'd be walking large portions of Cypress, so unless I feel like there's a danger of serious overuse injury to my joints I'll probably try that.
One of the lessons I've learned from cyclocross racing (which is the gold standard for Type II fun) is that if you wait until you're fit enough to do something you'll never do it, but if you do things even knowing you aren't nearly fit enough it's often fun anyway. As philosophies go, I guess that's kind of a weird mix of Rule 5 and Hakuna Matata.
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#548
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#549
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 175
Bikes: 1988 Bottecchia Professional (for Eroica), 2011 Ridley Noah ISP (retired), 2020 Soma Fog Cutter (daily commuter), 2021 Ridley Kanzo Adventure (gravel), 2022 Tideace Aero (main road bike).
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This year, I haven't done anything longer than 55 miles and on the 55 mile ride I took a bailout option to avoid some of the planned climbing. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do at Eroica. My plan is to ride to the top of Santa Rita and then evaluate my physical condition before either continuing on to Cypress or turning around and heading back to Cambria. Even in the best shape I've ever been in I'd be walking large portions of Cypress, so unless I feel like there's a danger of serious overuse injury to my joints
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DT is optional. 
I know many like to run without dust caps and I get it but they are a safety item in this capacity and could have kept you from having to go caveman on it.
We can go on ad nauseum about it but the delete option was for the mechanics at the races where they were checking or working on them daily or more often.

I know many like to run without dust caps and I get it but they are a safety item in this capacity and could have kept you from having to go caveman on it.
We can go on ad nauseum about it but the delete option was for the mechanics at the races where they were checking or working on them daily or more often.