Classtime 

1988 Sirrus came to me complete but unrideable. After some effort, I’ve been riding it with 7400 hubs and 6 speed FW with out issues.

I just rebuilt and installed the original rear wheel to discover the cassette is very far inboard. So much so that I fear losing the low gear limit screw on my original 105 RD. Was this 1050 hub also used for 8 speed?



Very cool 13-23 cassette. But look at that limit screw.

dddd

Oh, it's a cassette hub. But someone has definitely added spacers to the driveside for some reason.

That one fat spacer should be on the left side.
And then the wheel should be re-dished to center the rim between the dropouts, which altogether will make for a much better-supported rim and a stronger axle.

Normally, using modern 7-8s chain, I try to keep the driveside spacers to a minimum, with only 3-4mm between the inside face of the dropout and the outer face of the smallest cog.

Classtime 

The left side has a fat spacer already. Because every part of the bike appeared neglected to the same degree and was complete, I assumed that no one had altered any thing and I reassembled the hub as it came to
me. Thanks dddd



And some kinda split ring thingy in a channel on the spacer.

Moe Zhoost

The 7400 hub has 130 mm dropout spacing. Was the rear triangle spread to fit it? The original wheel probably had a OLD of 126mm, but that doesn't explain the spacers. My guess is that the original wheel had been set up as a single speed wheel and spaced and re-dished to achieve a good chainline. Check the specs for that hub and adjust spacers to achieve original offsets. Then re-dish the wheel if necessary.

Edit: After thinking about this, re-spacing the hub for a single speed set up would have removed spacers from the drive side. In any case, returning to the original hub offsets and re-dishing should solve your issue.

Gonzo Bob

The spacers/washers seem all mixed up. I bet that thick spacer on the drive side needs to be swapped with a washer from the non-drive side.

I actually have a pair of wheels I built with 105SC 7-speed Uniglide hubs (126mm rear OLD) but I lent them to my brother for a tour he took a few years ago and he still has them.

The closest thing I have is a pair of MTB wheels built with on Deore 6-speed Uniglide hubs but the rear is 130 OLD and the extra 4 mm goes on the non-drive side to decrease the dish.



BTW, nice Park Tool work stand

Edit: here's another thought. The axle might just be in backwards.

Classtime 

I likely misspoke regarding my Dura Ace hubs on the placeholder wheels. They are threaded FW 126mm hubs. After moving the spacer over and a re-dish, the tension should get pretty even. My first UG bike. I think I’m a fan.

T-Mar

The FH-1050 freehub was designed for a 6 cog cassette and 126mm spacing. A spacer is required between the cone and locknut because the inside of the drive side seat stay was not relieved for chain clearance during derailing. However, the spacer width does appear excessive. I'd also question if the hub has been rebuilt for 130mm OLD.

Gonzo Bob

I don't think you did. I have the same hubs, Dura-Ace 126mm OLD FW rear hub with 6-speed Uniglide FW, and they are model 7400. Shimano used 7400 as the number for the Dura-Ace 6, 7, and 8-speed hubs. The 8-speed are 130 OLD.

Classtime 

I moved the spacer to the nds, re-dished, and things are much better. Plenty of room on both sides. 126mm spacing. One of the cones is much wider tha the other and is currently on the ds. While I'm plying, maybe I'll swap them for even more even spoke tension.

T-Mar

When they went to 8 speed, the hubs' model numbers were changed from 7400. There was an FH-7402-8 (Uniglide) and FH-7403-HG (Hyperglide)

Hondo6

This exploded diagram (downloadable PDF) might come in handy. It covers both the 7400-7 and 7400-6.

https://manualzz.com/doc/53869696/sh...-exploded-view

Not sure you want to swap cones unless you can find an authoritative source that indicates they're interchangeable. From what I've seen left and right cones on Shimano rear hubs are often NOT interchangeable.