It DOES have a kind of Shaker vibe! I think of it as a lugless fillet-brazed rando bike with a bit of attitude - the frame's angles are a bit more aggressive than what I usually ride, but the Sirrus opened up my eyes to how much fun that can be! Now to find some early morning ride time ...

BBBBB cheater, brilliant! :thumb:

I have a 4 ft. thinwall pipe with one end pinched to go over the bullitproof Sugino wrench, no hammer needed, ever and never fails or damages any parts, pieces, tools, frames or flesh, ever, period. ;)

For one particularly stuck BB (cartridge BB fused to Ti frame - apparently no lube or antisieze when assembled) after lots, and lots of ATF:Acetone soaks for several months, a deadblow hammer on a 12" wrench (park BB tool bolted onto BB), and several cycles with the torch, I clamped a Park FFS-2 Frame and Fork Straightener tool to the wrench for a 3'+ cheater bar and just muscled it out. Was sure I was going to tear the threads or something before I got it out, but it came out and the shell threads were still in great shape. After lots of cleaning (and lots of antisieze - and plumber's tape), a new one went in nice and easy like butter.

Pix from today's ride - I really love this bike! Still mastering half-step+granny, maybe get different stem and bars for one more inch of height, but otherwise, this simply works. The drive train feels like a new bike (except for where the right shifters gets a bit mushy in the middle of the cassette), the handling is sublime, and the 32 mm Paselas soak up the road shock. And besides, it's pretty.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8f5b75e23f.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...602e7379c3.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d9224c9192.jpg

Wow, great job, looks fantastic. ;)

Updated photos
 

I made a trade with a fellow BF'er, sending me a 90mm Nitto Technomic stem for a 110mm version of the same. I then swapped out the too-short SR Custom for the Nitto, raising the bars to a more comfortable level. Unfortunately, the shifter cables and housings were too short to go as high as I really wanted, and the extra tautness interfered with smooth operation of all gears. Still, it rode great, as seen here -

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec403ccda4.jpg

A few days later I revamped the cabling, using the old rear cable as the new front and fitting a brand new wire for the rear mech. I also cheated and grafted new short lengths of housing to the existing ones, butted them together and taped the joints securely to the bars where it would all be hidden - handlebar tape covers a multitude of sins. This also allowed me to get the bars up just that extra little bit more. I am very pleased with the fit of this bike.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3366b00b39.jpg

A perfect sports tourer, love it.

What is that extra hole/nut on the non-drive side seat stay? Apologies if this already was asked earlier in the thread, I haven't yet read through it carefully.

It looks great and bonus points for getting it to where you want it fit wise.
Hard to tell in post 26 but do the different housings rub the headtube? Would some frame protector be in order?

That appears to be a generator lamp mount. There are small loops for wiring on the underside of the down tube and the back of the seat tube, and I am assuming the original owner planned to run the wire up the underside of the left seat stay, down the back of the seat tube, underneath the BB shell and up to a headlamp. No boss for a headlamp, nor for front racks of any sort. If I decide to electrify it, I'll build a front wheel around a dynohub and shorten the wiring, and probably in the near future I'll use the generator boss to mount a battery-powered blinky tail light. If I ever have it repainted, I'd consider having small bosses added to the fork for a rando bag and its required rack, and mount a headlamp on that.

Probably. The last time I had a nice bike with bar end shifter cables routed like this, I put short lengths of surgical tubing over the bottom bits of the shift cables to protect the head tube, and that seemed to work. Or I could get those little discs of clear plastic and put them where the cables touch the frame.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

I ran the Rivendell with this setup from when it arrived new in late 2000 until 2006, when I switched over to Silver downtube shifters.

In many ways, the Lighthouse picks up where the Rivendell left off, and in other ways it is what the Rivendell was meant to be, but never quite achieved. No fancy lugs, but really finely-crafted fillet-brazed joinery combined with a fork that I fell in love with the moment I saw it. There is a certain stark simplicity honed by the lack of lugs, raised fork crown, etc., and the term Shaker sensibility comes to mind, a kind of artistry in making everything clearly functional and elegant at the same time with zero adornment. The standard diameter 531 tubing is a lot springier and livelier than the OS stuff on the Rivendell, which I wound up selling in 2012 after realizing I hadn't ridden it in 50 miles in three years.

On the road the Lighthouse captures all of the best traits of my 1982 Mercian Colorado, which started out as a team-issued bike for the Harvest/The Spoke/Mercian team - zippy, eager feeling on the road, but shockingly stable and smooth - but the greater tire width of the Lighthouse soaks up road shock better and makes it surefooted on gravel and hardpacked dirt as well, something I discovered when I had to take a shortcut home after biting off more than I could chew.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec38f0ac1.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59bc11f35.jpeg

The bike really needs fresh bar tape and two white cages, and I may later on splurge and build up some fresh wheels on CR-18s - but it's fine right now, and I'll be riding it for some time to come pretty much as it is.