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It's been awhile, & a '74 International

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It's been awhile, & a '74 International

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Old 11-06-21, 10:35 AM
  #26  
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Bikes: 07 Vanilla, 98 IRD road frame built up with 25th Ann DA, Surly cross check with 105 comp, 78 Raleigh Comp GS, 85 Centurionelli

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Originally Posted by kroozer
Beautiful International. I also have a circa-1974 model, a sad-looking-but solid specimen I bought cheap here on BF. I had the fork rechromed, and repainted it at a local auto body shop. We did the tinted clear over the base, just like the original, and the metallic copper really came out nicely. I set it up with mixed vintage parts and of course it's a great rider. I do have two quibbles with the International, though. First, the brazed-on rear brake cable stop is set quite low, leaving very little space for the cable to move. Also, the minimal chain stay indentations limit tire size to about 35mm.
Do you have pics of this? I'd love to see it. Ditto your thoughts on the chainstays, I actually tried to "clearance" mine with a very big C clamp when I saw how close my 1 1/4" Paselas run, but nothin doin. I put some leverage on that turner-torquer bar too, enough to bend it a smidge in the process. Those tubes have some real lateral strength.
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Old 11-06-21, 05:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by poprad
Thanks for all the comments, and it's good to see some names I recall. New ones, too.

Pics definitely don't do the color any justice. No matter what I do with the white balance it still reads more red than it should. Steve is dead on about the glow in the sun, it's hard to stay focused on the road riding this bike!



It's definitely a color you have to see in person, like the late 90's Cannondale flip-flop color jobs that changed from green to gray to purple depending on the angle you look at.

Oh, and yeah, I know I need to deal with the cable ends, I like to solder mine to facilitate easy maintenance and those tools are in storage. I just hate crushing a little aluminum hat onto a cable, it feels like cheating... And the cable housings...I also know you can run without the end caps on this kind of setup, but I dislike how the outer plastic bugles at the frame mount. To me that indicates there is some cable housing compression happening, and I also don't like the look of it. So, I use the end caps even thought not necessary.

Bill, nice to see you're still flying the colors. S/F and almost Happy BIrthday!
Semper Fi bro, looking forward to 10 Nov, 246 years since Tun Tavern! And, nine days later I’ll hit 65 times around the sun!!😉

Bill
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Old 11-06-21, 05:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ollo_ollo
Great job on the new ride. Looks spectacular. Will be a joy to ride when back in Oregon. Too bad our bodies aren't as durable as our bikes, but time marches on. Currently I'm enjoying Pensacola sunshine, biding time until my return to Oregon for surgery on 11/19 to restore lung function. Should give more good cycling years. Don.
Don, your in my area, shoot me a PM if you want to grab a cup of coffee, or just meet up. We are in mid-Escambia county, north of I-10, just off the Alabama-Florida line/Perdido River.

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Old 11-08-21, 11:26 AM
  #29  
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Just now seeing this thread, having assumed (wrongly) that this was a thread about a Nishiki International!

Great build, I can only hope that it rides as nice as it looks.

How's the chain-freewheel compatibility, is there a point where the chain never slips during shifts, @below some particular level of pedaling force?

I've got a Champagne/silver colored International, which gets my attention for how well-composed it stays and how relaxing it feels on the fastest descents.
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Old 11-09-21, 06:32 AM
  #30  
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Thanks for asking, the chain works fantastic. I've been using these shimano 6-7-8 spd chains on my vintage bikes for along time now and love them. I am at (maybe past) what one should use for total gear teeth, and I avoid the extreme cross chains just because of the massive angle it puts the sideplates at. It will shift to the big-big though, with nary a wrap on the pulley cage, but the top jockey wheel doesn't hit. Small small works too, and same; the chain just barely grazes the pulleys and the derailleur is at complete non-tension. I set up a Colnago like this for L'Eroica once, although the range was mostly at the crankset, and had similar results. I tend to shift my vintage bikes gently in any case, as I see them more as something to preserve than to use hard, parts costing what they do for these now.

Hope that answers your question!

Mark
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