Miyata 1000 cold set rear dropouts to 130mm?
11-05-21, 04:15 PM
#1
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Miyata 1000 cold set rear dropouts to 130mm?
There's a Miyata 1000 for a good price on my local craigslist. I'm considering purchasing it and spreading the rear dropouts to 130mm because I have some nice touring wheels. Am I out of my mind? Would you do it? Let me know.
This isn't so much a question about how to cold set a frame, but whether or not cold setting this particular frame would be a crime against humanity or not.
Thanks!
This isn't so much a question about how to cold set a frame, but whether or not cold setting this particular frame would be a crime against humanity or not.
Thanks!
11-05-21, 04:51 PM
#2
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not riding it with wheels and thhe set up you want would be the crime, IMHO
I happily had my 85 team miyata set to 130 so I could run modern groups (of course I have an 84 team at 126 so i am covered both ways)
I happily had my 85 team miyata set to 130 so I could run modern groups (of course I have an 84 team at 126 so i am covered both ways)
11-05-21, 04:58 PM
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It’s no big deal to spread a 126 OLD frame to 130.
11-05-21, 05:44 PM
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You can also shoot for 128 and use both 126 and 130 wheels.
11-05-21, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by multifrog
There's a Miyata 1000 for a good price on my local craigslist. I'm considering purchasing it and spreading the rear dropouts to 130mm because I have some nice touring wheels. Am I out of my mind? Would you do it? Let me know.
This isn't so much a question about how to cold set a frame, but whether or not cold setting this particular frame would be a crime against humanity or not.
Thanks!
This isn't so much a question about how to cold set a frame, but whether or not cold setting this particular frame would be a crime against humanity or not.
Thanks!
Cold setting would easily be reversed, but doubt that you’d do that, once you discover the many fine 130mm hubs that are available.
FWIW, my ‘79 912 was cold-set to 130mm, and the dropouts re-aligned (both easily done), along with switching from 27” to 700C wheels. I’ve been enjoying it that way for about 30 years with a variety of wheels.
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11-05-21, 11:00 PM
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I would not do it , and I would not buy a frame that’s been jacked by somebody else neither.
Besides I don’t see the need to. You can run a modern groupset on a 7 speed HG hub using the 8 of 9 on 7 method. There is simply no need to go to 130mm. I have 3 bikes running 126mm spacing and 2 of them have brifter drivetrains. The third one has barcons.
Besides I don’t see the need to. You can run a modern groupset on a 7 speed HG hub using the 8 of 9 on 7 method. There is simply no need to go to 130mm. I have 3 bikes running 126mm spacing and 2 of them have brifter drivetrains. The third one has barcons.
11-05-21, 11:16 PM
#10
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If you saw the amount of massaging your average frame goes through in order to be aligned right from the framebuilder or factory, you'd be fine with spreading or squeezing anything.
If you're worried about originality, you can always just squeeze it back. Nobody will notice as long as you do not wildly overshoot (and I mean like half an inch kind of overshooting) and make a ripple in one of the tubes.
If you're worried about originality, you can always just squeeze it back. Nobody will notice as long as you do not wildly overshoot (and I mean like half an inch kind of overshooting) and make a ripple in one of the tubes.
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11-06-21, 01:58 PM
#11
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I would try squeejeling the wheel in there first.
The M1000 is a great bike- but it's reputation is built on being a well made, well appointed tourer- not as a rare collector's item. The bike was in production for over a dozen years- there are tens of thousands of them.
As long as you're not significantly destroying the frame, you're golden- I'd just call that a wheel swap.
(then again, there's the guy who got a M1000, spray painted it day glo orange and THEN decided he didn't like it. That guy was a tool.)
The M1000 is a great bike- but it's reputation is built on being a well made, well appointed tourer- not as a rare collector's item. The bike was in production for over a dozen years- there are tens of thousands of them.
As long as you're not significantly destroying the frame, you're golden- I'd just call that a wheel swap.
(then again, there's the guy who got a M1000, spray painted it day glo orange and THEN decided he didn't like it. That guy was a tool.)
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11-06-21, 04:43 PM
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Yep, I'm with most of the others. Just do it if you need to. I've done that with several frames over the years, it's really no big deal.
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11-06-21, 04:51 PM
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Check the spacing first, but, go for it. Just make sure to check that your dropouts are aligned after you're done.
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11-08-21, 12:25 AM
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Spreading the rear triangle is not even necessary as it's only 2 mm on each side.. When Shimano released Dura Ace 8 speed there were no 130 mm frames yet. Shimano used convex washers on the first Dura Ace rear hubs so that all you needed to do was pull the wheel into the dropouts and the washers would spread them open enough for the wheel to slide in. I have one of these hubs. If you don't have a hub with convex washers, just pull the wheel toward the back of the bike and exert a little pressure pulling the dropouts apart. My '84 Team Miyata is running 8 speed just like this. I have cold set frames too without issue, if you're into superfast wheel changes that is.
11-08-21, 02:45 PM
#15
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I've got an old Ironman that was 126mm. I bought an inexpensive set of Vuelta XRP wheels with 130mm rear spacing. Mounted lightweight tubes & tires. No problem mounting the rear wheel. Pretty easy to spread the stays. Bike rolls very fast now. New wheels & tires can make a dramatic difference in the way a bike rolls.
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11-08-21, 04:57 PM
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As an aside, I believe my 89 1000LT is 135mm. Perhaps that was for easy adaptation of the Deore mountain bike parts. I always wondered why it wasn’t 130mm.
