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Slowest Cannondale build thread

Old 11-16-21, 11:51 AM
  #26  
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An interesting and inventive build! Love the way you used what you had/had access to and wound up with a nicely integrated whole.
It’s so sad that the thick chainstays of that period result in so little clearance for 700c tires much larger than an actual 30mm when mounted. 700 X 38’s would be an awesome combination on that frame!
I run 650 X 38’s on the Pelizzoli- as large as will fit- and they are nice and cushy, so am not surprised that you have a great ride on the ST.

Only concern is the combination of DA 7400 (?) brake levers with the Tektro 559’s. My experience with braking power using that combination was disappointing. Either an SLR Shimano lever or one of Tektro’s own levers work much, much better, especially on long fast downhills.
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Old 11-16-21, 12:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
An interesting and inventive build! Love the way you used what you had/had access to and wound up with a nicely integrated whole.
It’s so sad that the thick chainstays of that period result in so little clearance for 700c tires much larger than an actual 30mm when mounted. 700 X 38’s would be an awesome combination on that frame!
I run 650 X 38’s on the Pelizzoli- as large as will fit- and they are nice and cushy, so am not surprised that you have a great ride on the ST.

Only concern is the combination of DA 7400 (?) brake levers with the Tektro 559’s. My experience with braking power using that combination was disappointing. Either an SLR Shimano lever or one of Tektro’s own levers work much, much better, especially on long fast downhills.
Shimano 105 SLR (circa 1987-88) are the best levers I have ever used for various brake sets. They even make crappy sets more responsive...
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Old 11-16-21, 09:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by steine13 View Post
It was minus 2 degrees socialist this morning at seven.
Autocorrect...or autocommentary?
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Old 11-16-21, 10:25 PM
  #29  
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This does not look like it will be the slowest Cannondale.
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Old 11-17-21, 04:30 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Pcampeau View Post
This does not look like it will be the slowest Cannondale.
That is reserved for me when I am riding my Cannondale...
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Old 11-17-21, 08:56 AM
  #31  
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I can just squeeze 38s (700c) on my ‘97 T900 (though actually the Rene Herse Barlow Pass measure about 40mm inflated to 45psi…), but the wheel has to be perfectly true and in the drop-outs just right. Maybe 2mm clearance on each side at the chain stays. Takes a little bit of wiggling to get the wheel in past the chainstay bridge/fender bolt. Felt a bit like this was cutting it just too close, like a twig or something could get wedged (though I really had no problems for 1500 miles of mixed surface riding), so I switched to 35s (the 38s are going on an old Peugeot Appalaches I’m rehabbing to try to get my partner into cycling). 3mm doesn’t sound like much, but I definitely notice it and miss the 38s- they are just damn comfortable (the bike had 28c tires on it when I got it last spring and was pretty brutal on the crappy roads where I live- 38s were transformational)! When I wear out the 35s I think I’ll go back to the 38s, tight clearance be damned. I wonder if narrower rims might narrow the width of the tires by a mm or two....
It's interesting that in the '97 Cannondale catalog the T900 is spec'd as coming with 38c tires with the clearance being so tight... Comparing the geometries of '90 to '97 it seems the latter is just a little bit more 'tour' and less 'sport' (slightly shallower head-tube, slightly longer wheelbase...), though my T900 feels plenty 'sport' to me.
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Old 11-17-21, 03:18 PM
  #32  
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You could try even lower tire pressure. You might be pleased.
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Old 11-17-21, 03:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
You could try even lower tire pressure. You might be pleased.
I have! I vary it depending on the route/surfaces I'm going to be on. The 38s at 35psi on gravel/rough pavement was really nice. I haven't been able to do a whole lot of riding since I put the 35s on (and what I have done has been pavement/chip-seal)- I think I've got them at 40 right now. From what I've been able to glean from the Rene Herse site that seems to be about as low as I ought to go with a 35c....
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Old 11-24-21, 07:59 PM
  #34  
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Learned Friends:

I try to deliver. When I say 'Slow Thread', you won't have to worry about rapid-fire updates. But I try to pay attention. So:

rccardr
>> It’s so sad that the thick chainstays of that period result in so little clearance[..]

Agreed. But it's still better than my R200, which fits "28s" that measure to 26. Ride over a dime and you can tell if it's head or tails.

>> Only concern is the combination of DA 7400 (?) brake levers with the Tektro 559’s. My experience with braking power using that combination was disappointing.

I'm a big fan of Shimano's aero levers: https://www.treefortbikes.com/Shiman...rake-Lever-Set
and have them on two of my bikes... three, as I found out this summer, because I just realized the levers I put on my T400 14 years ago are the same. I drilled and tapped those to accept a mirrycle, and that setup still works.


thumpism asked
>> [me:] It was minus 2 degrees socialist this morning at seven.
>> Autocorrect...or autocommentary?

It's what a friend of mine calls it.. he's poking fun at those who turn everything political and I find it funny so I use it occasionally.

ehcoplex wrote
>> It's interesting that in the '97 Cannondale catalog the T900 is spec'd as coming with 38c tires with the clearance being so tight..

My all time favorite, bought-it-new, keep-it-forever bike is a T400 from 1995. By 93, they'd made them less sport and more touring. I run 38 mm Schwalbes with fenders. As far as I'm concerned, those are "peak Cannondale." The chain stays are dimpled to make the wider tires fit. And wouldn't you know it, those come up for sale about 1/10 as often als the earlier bikes.

cheers -mathias

Last edited by steine13; 11-24-21 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 11-24-21, 08:15 PM
  #35  
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Slow thread or no, I need advice. I have the perfect rear rack for my build, but it doesn't quite reach. I had a similar situation on my wife's T400, and bent the stays into submission, and it worked fine.. not that they've been stressed much since:

[1996 T400 w/ no-name rack from the cheap bin at the campus bike store]

I took the rack for the ST600 off the 84 Trek 620 I picked up recently. It's a Jim Blackburn, and the stays are a solid 8 mm... do I carefully bend these to as large a radius as I can?
I also have a Vetta (Blackburn knock-off) from the co-op that has bolt-on steel stays that would be easier to bend... but I'm thinking I'll go for it.
What do you-all think? Anybody do this? Anyone have a failure?
It's not the "investment" I'm worried about, but I'd rather not break an old, good-quality rack.

cheers -mathias


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Old 11-24-21, 08:55 PM
  #36  
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...aand finally, another question, not really part of this build, but related.

I picked up another T400 recently with the intention to refurbish it as a Christmas present for our daughter who is 22 and has been riding her Trek Lexa regularly now she's finished with school. Clearly she also needs a Cannondale tourer, like mama and papa have.

I was happy to find this an hour's drive away and paid handsomely for it despite evidence of outside storage and wonky wheels. As it turned out, the wheels trued up nicely, and the frame is in good shape overall. Light, too:


The fork, however, is 1002 g on its own...

But. When I removed the cranks, I found the chain stay pretty banged up. I can't really tell whether this is an annoyance or a serious concern. Here I'm hoping for advice from @rccardr, who's apparently refurbished a quarter of the Cannondales in the country, so he might have an opinion.

It's not like I'm considering junking the frame... he question is really how much to worry, which is kind of academic, and whether it's a good idea to sand out the gouges. On that I have no idea. My instinct is to leave bad enough alone.

But really, how cool is it to have three T400s in the family? This one is from 1994 per the imprint on the fork; mine was special-ordered in the spring of 1995, and my wife's was bought off the rack in 1996 as last year's model. These last two are bright red, and only the 1996 catalog will admit to a "T400" and those are all supposed to be black. It appears to have been a bit of a free-for-all at Cannondale in the mid-90s.

Photos submitted for your perusal.
cheers -mathias







Last edited by steine13; 11-24-21 at 10:12 PM. Reason: needs more pictures.
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Old 11-25-21, 07:34 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by steine13 View Post
While we wait for parts to come in, here's what happens when a Phil bottom bracket gets corroded and does not wish to leave the frame.

Pneumatic persuasion, but the High setting was required. Wouldn't budge on Low or Medium.
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Old 11-25-21, 07:43 AM
  #38  
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Wow. Congratulations!
Goes to show that you can get more done with a kind word and a 2x4 than a kind word alone.

I note that the Phil tool did not deform.

With new bearings, can you reuse the bottom bracket? That would be cool.

cheers -mathias
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Old 11-25-21, 08:00 AM
  #39  
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On the rack question, I have bent Blackburns to fit, no problem. Just go slow, be gentle, and keep test fitting--you don't want to be going back and forth.

On the bottom bracket/chain stay gouging question, unless it's not coming through in the photos it doesn't look too bad. Maybe file it smooth and ride on. I have not thought twice about riding bikes with chain stays that were much more banged up.
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Old 11-25-21, 04:50 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by steine13 View Post
.With new bearings, can you reuse the bottom bracket? That would be cool.
It's actually pretty smooth as is. I would not hesitate to try it in the bike once the frame is again ready for parts.
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Old 11-26-21, 04:50 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by steine13 View Post

My all time favorite, bought-it-new, keep-it-forever bike is a T400 from 1995. By 93, they'd made them less sport and more touring. I run 38 mm Schwalbes with fenders. As far as I'm concerned, those are "peak Cannondale." The chain stays are dimpled to make the wider tires fit. And wouldn't you know it, those come up for sale about 1/10 as often als the earlier bikes.

cheers -mathias
I'm with you. When I got back into 'serious' cycling last spring after a couple decades of nothing more than utility-biking I sought out (and found) a vintage Cannondale T900. In '89-'90 I was looking for a bike for an extended tour in Europe. I tried out quite a few top-of-the-line touring bikes at various bike shops- in as much as riding around the block, unloaded, can be considered 'trying out'. Nothing really felt right until a guy at a shop said, 'hey, why don't you try out this Cannondale ST600- we're marking it down to move it for the next year's models....' It was actually a fair bit cheaper than the fancy, steel-framed bikes I'd been looking at, but it felt good immediately. Man, I loved that bike! Alas, it got stolen in France, I ended up moving to NYC and my days of 'serious' cycling ended for a couple decades. But I always wanted another Cannondale touring bike...
Initially I was afraid maybe I'd made a mistake- the roads where I live are pretty awful and the ride was HARSH (it had crappy, 28c tires on it.....). 38c Rene Herse Barlow Pass (shoe-horned in, with fenders, too) were transformational, and I really love this bike. The 23" frame is a bit small for me, but 25" would be a little bit big, and I'm doing a fair bit of riding on gravel, seasonal farm/logging/state land 'roads' so a smaller frame is probably safer to be on.
Looking forward to seeing the end result of you build, however long it takes!
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