Gitane Gran Tourisme question
#1
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Gitane Gran Tourisme question
Hello,
After many attempts I finally got my hands on a Gitane Gran Tourisme last night.
It will be my winter project and as you can see from the rushed pictures I took it needs some tlc. I have a couple of question to all you knowledgeable vintage bikers.
Firstly the year of manufacture, I know they only used foil decals from the late 60’s to the early 70’s but I don’t know the year. Perhaps my pictures can help pin it down. Secondly I am worried that the stem shifters are not original. They are Suntour, while the rest of the bike is kitted out with campy. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated. Thx.








After many attempts I finally got my hands on a Gitane Gran Tourisme last night.
It will be my winter project and as you can see from the rushed pictures I took it needs some tlc. I have a couple of question to all you knowledgeable vintage bikers.
Firstly the year of manufacture, I know they only used foil decals from the late 60’s to the early 70’s but I don’t know the year. Perhaps my pictures can help pin it down. Secondly I am worried that the stem shifters are not original. They are Suntour, while the rest of the bike is kitted out with campy. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated. Thx.









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Hi PBYO988 I had a Gran Tourisme for a while. It was a little small for me so I moved it on to another BF member. Mine had Campy down tube shifters and I believe it was a '71/72. If I remember correctly they were only made for a few years in the early 70's. Your's looks pretty complete and like it should clean up pretty nicely.
It looks like a fun project.
Mike
It looks like a fun project.
Mike
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#3
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Nice score! Looking forward to seeing it cleaned up, always fascinated by Continental touring bikes. The shifters might not be original spec but they are period correct (i believe...) so the OP may have specc'ed those when purchasing the frame. Those stem shifters shift great and wouldn't be out of place. You could go with bar-ends as well.
I can't help you regarding the year of mfg.
Good luck with your bike. BTW are in the Western or Eastern hemisphere? Asking because I haven't seen too many bikes likes this on this side of the pond.
I can't help you regarding the year of mfg.
Good luck with your bike. BTW are in the Western or Eastern hemisphere? Asking because I haven't seen too many bikes likes this on this side of the pond.
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Nice score! Looking forward to seeing it cleaned up, always fascinated by Continental touring bikes. The shifters might not be original spec but they are period correct (i believe...) so the OP may have specc'ed those when purchasing the frame. Those stem shifters shift great and wouldn't be out of place. You could go with bar-ends as well.
I can't help you regarding the year of mfg.
Good luck with your bike. BTW are in the Western or Eastern hemisphere? Asking because I haven't seen too many bikes likes this on this side of the pond.
I can't help you regarding the year of mfg.
Good luck with your bike. BTW are in the Western or Eastern hemisphere? Asking because I haven't seen too many bikes likes this on this side of the pond.
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Nice score. This will be easy enough to fix up and find parts for. The rear derailleur is a bit of a boat anchor and I'd sell it. Using suntour derailleurs and downtube or bar end shifters is not a bad idea. They work better than campy. If you want to stay with a triple, I'd be sorely tempted to use a stronglight 99 or a TA triple rather than the campy as they are more versatile in terms of gearing. It's pretty darn hilly north of NYC so the triple might make sense. You can sell the campy triple easily enough.
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Really important you use mild methods to clean that bike so as not to damage paint (fragile) and chrome. Do not do OA bath as acid is indiscriminate. Do not use Aluminum foil ( this just smear Al everywhere) . Do use Brass bristled brush or bronze wool and wd40 (or equivalent) as lubricant on chrome . Make sure brass bristles are solid and not plated (ask how I know) . Scouring pads scratch so that’s a no no. Soft toothbrush is ok for nooks but be careful around lug lining paint as if too aggressive possible you can remove. Do not use simple green standard version (that eats Aluminum) instead use aviation version or Pro HD version. Evaporust is ok as long as part is submerged completely . Do not use evaporust on anodized parts (I think the campy red disks on derailleur are anodized) and I would not put that frame/ fork in it ( it would lift the paint). Recommend just soap water and wax on paint. Any wax ok but the best is microcrystalline wax.
Yes downtube campy shifters stock. Otherwise it’s all there 😉
Someone put the same shifters on the TDF I found earlier this year.



Here is catalog pic and spec sheet.
Yes downtube campy shifters stock. Otherwise it’s all there 😉
Someone put the same shifters on the TDF I found earlier this year.



Here is catalog pic and spec sheet.
Last edited by Slowride79; 11-10-21 at 02:05 PM.
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I'm thinking 1972-73 because you have the swaged seat stay tops without a rear brake cable stop bridge and the shorter lugs. I keep hoping someday there will be a combination of one of these in a 60cm size along with sufficient cash and the opportunity to acquire and ride it.
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#8
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Nice score. This will be easy enough to fix up and find parts for. The rear derailleur is a bit of a boat anchor and I'd sell it. Using suntour derailleurs and downtube or bar end shifters is not a bad idea. They work better than campy. If you want to stay with a triple, I'd be sorely tempted to use a stronglight 99 or a TA triple rather than the campy as they are more versatile in terms of gearing. It's pretty darn hilly north of NYC so the triple might make sense. You can sell the campy triple easily enough.

What do you think?
#9
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#10
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I'm thinking 1972-73 because you have the swaged seat stay tops without a rear brake cable stop bridge and the shorter lugs. I keep hoping someday there will be a combination of one of these in a 60cm size along with sufficient cash and the opportunity to acquire and ride it.
My fingers are crossed that your hope will someday be realised. I was lucky and got a good deal.
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A suntour long cage RD is just about the best vintage rear derailleur you can use. Those campy triples go for decent money and frankly don't do much. I don't think you can go below 36 on the inside. If you run a stronglight 99 or a TA, you can just run a 50/36 or 48/32. You'll end up with a simpler shifting and the same or better range. Or you can run either crank as a triple and end up with a wider range of gearing. The stronglight 99 goes as low as 28; the TA goes down to 26.
I've done my share of riding on both sides of the Hudson north of NYC. There are some serious hills long before you get to the mountains.
Last edited by bikemig; 11-10-21 at 04:47 PM.
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Beautiful bike- I love the color and I love the painted flutes in the fenders!!!
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Btw, since you plan on selling the bike, I wouldn't change anything. Just have fun cleaning it up and let it go in the spring. You're in NYC; you should be able to get a good price on that bike.
Last edited by bikemig; 11-10-21 at 04:52 PM.
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...Those campy triples go for decent money and frankly don't do much. I don't think you can go below 36 on the inside. If you run a stronglight 99 or a TA, you can just run a 50/36 or 48/32. You'll end up with a simpler shifting and the same or better range. Or you can run either crank as a triple and end up with a wider range of gearing. The stronglight 99 goes as low as 28; the TA goes down to 26.
I've done my share of riding on both sides of the Hudson north of NYC. There are some serious hills long before you get to the mountains.
I've done my share of riding on both sides of the Hudson north of NYC. There are some serious hills long before you get to the mountains.
It's self-serving of me to point this out, but you could keep the original crank, ditch the two middle and small rings, and install a Red Clover Components triplizer, which would let you use a standard 74BCD granny ring as small as 24 teeth.
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Yes, you can't go below 36 teeth with the granny ring on that crank. Or above it, for that matter: 36 was the only inner ring available.
It's self-serving of me to point this out, but you could keep the original crank, ditch the two middle and small rings, and install a Red Clover Components triplizer, which would let you use a standard 74BCD granny ring as small as 24 teeth.
It's self-serving of me to point this out, but you could keep the original crank, ditch the two middle and small rings, and install a Red Clover Components triplizer, which would let you use a standard 74BCD granny ring as small as 24 teeth.
If he isn't looking to go lower on gears, with the Crankset he has he might be able to run a NR RD if he wants to stay Campy and get rid of the Gran Tourismo.
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The crankset on the OP's bike doesn't have the the smaller diameter bolt pattern, so it would be limited to the Standard 41 tooth w/o serious modifications. I do run a 32 tooth Chainring on my NR triple crankset, but that required a custom chainring. If the OP is looking for low gears and unless the OP wants to source a NR Triple and a custom chainring, the a triplizer is probably the easiest and most cost effective solution.
If he isn't looking to go lower on gears, with the Crankset he has he might be able to run a NR RD if he wants to stay Campy and get rid of the Gran Tourismo.
If he isn't looking to go lower on gears, with the Crankset he has he might be able to run a NR RD if he wants to stay Campy and get rid of the Gran Tourismo.
So how is that set up as a triple--as a 52-47-42, or what? I'm hoping the OP will enlighten me. I'm not just imagining that I see three chainrings there, am I?
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Last edited by jonwvara; 11-11-21 at 06:43 AM.
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You're right, that crank isn't drilled for the Campagnolo granny--given the description of it as a triple, I had just assumed that it was. I...I am filled with shame.
So how is that set up as a triple--as a 52-47-42, or what? I'm hoping the OP will enlighten me. I'm not just imaging that I see three chainrings there, am I?
So how is that set up as a triple--as a 52-47-42, or what? I'm hoping the OP will enlighten me. I'm not just imaging that I see three chainrings there, am I?
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There sure are some big hills. I think I want to keep this bike as close to the original spec as possible so I’ll keep the components as they are. For me half the fun is the locating of the missing components.
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PBY0988, can you tell us a little bit more about that crankset, and maybe post a photo of it taken from the back side?
What are the tooth counts on the three rings? Are all three rings mounted on the same set of bolts, with the small (inner) ring standing off from the middle ring on spacers? Inquiring minds want to know!
What are the tooth counts on the three rings? Are all three rings mounted on the same set of bolts, with the small (inner) ring standing off from the middle ring on spacers? Inquiring minds want to know!
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Last edited by jonwvara; 11-11-21 at 06:54 AM. Reason: none
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#22
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PBY0988, can you tell us a little bit more about that crankset, and maybe post a photo of it taken from the back side?
What are the tooth counts on the three rings? Are all three rings mounted on the same set of bolts, with the small (inner) ring standing off from the middle ring on spacers? Inquiring minds want to know!
What are the tooth counts on the three rings? Are all three rings mounted on the same set of bolts, with the small (inner) ring standing off from the middle ring on spacers? Inquiring minds want to know!
I’d be glad to share whatever you want.
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If you're looking to sell (which you are, right?), it likely isn't worth your investment in money to try to get this all original. Do it if that makes you happy but if you want to maximize your return, I'd just clean it up and move it on. Luckily for you, NYC is a good market to sell quality vintage bikes and this is a good one.