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What old tech are you not willing to use on your C&V bike?

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What old tech are you not willing to use on your C&V bike?

Old 11-21-21, 05:24 PM
  #26  
Trakhak
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Originally Posted by jforb427 View Post
I can't think of any. I even put the old balls back into the bearings, after cleaning and inspecting them.

They don't make stuff like they used to (for better or worse!) and if it's lasted 40+ years, I suppose it probably wasn't so bad, after all.
Used to drive me crazy when bike mechanics I was overseeing argued against using new bearing balls during overhauls. I definitely agree with Sheldon Brown (see this page) on this one:

"Have a new set of bearing balls on hand. They are sold at bicycle shops and over the Internet. Get a couple of spares in case you lose some -- they can be elusive little devils. It is hardly worth the trouble to rebuild a hub without new bearing balls."
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Old 11-21-21, 05:26 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by steelbikeguy View Post
Of course, that might be why I don't want to own stuff that pre-dates the 70's much... even though cottered cranks might have been the top of the line gear, I'm not in the mood to start messing with cotters, and I'm not going to own a bike that I don't ride routinely. If I had a lot more storage space, then I might consider a bike that just gets ridden a few times a year.
thankfully Stronglight solved the problem of coffered cranks all the way back in 1933 so itís possible to build 40ís and 50ís frames without them!

Someday I want to experiment with some of the bizarre early derailleurs, but Iíll match them with the good old 49D.
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Old 11-21-21, 05:40 PM
  #28  
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Pre PBA plastic water bottles.
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Old 11-21-21, 06:28 PM
  #29  
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On thing that I like in a vintage bike is the use of braze-on fittings instead of using clamps; i.e. clamp-on bottle cages or cable guides or shift levers. As a general rule, the clamp-on devices are an opportunity to nick the paint or accumulate crud and moisture, both of which cause paint damage and promote corrosion. This is more of a concern for bikes that get ridden in all conditions, versus the "sunny day only" status of most of my vintage bikes. This might be a result of my experience with my trusty Raleigh Gran Sport that I enjoyed for 14 years.

Another effect of clamp-on fittings: pump pegs, and the tendency to tear up Reynolds tubing decals at the top of the seat tube. It's not just me, is it?? Frame-fit pumps were definitely an improvement.

I will say that the use of braze-on fittings seemed to wax and wane over the years. The braze-on fittings for the rear brake cables on my Raleighs existed at the same time that top tube cable clamps were popular.
here's a shot of the braze-on stops for the rear brake cable on my '74 Raleigh International, as well as the T.A. handlebar bottle cage that I use to avoid clamping a bottle cage on this bike's down tube. I really like this h'bar bottle cage!



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Old 11-21-21, 06:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Trakhak View Post
Used to drive me crazy when bike mechanics I was overseeing argued against using new bearing balls during overhauls.
If I were working on bikes for a living, I would probably have a different attitude.

I play with old machines because I like old machines. And it's also fun to point out to folks that they still do what they were designed to do. Think back to when the old technology was state of the art...we sure praised it then...
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Old 11-21-21, 06:43 PM
  #31  
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I try to stay away from Maxy like these.

I'll include pull down Suntour derailleurs to.
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Old 11-21-21, 07:34 PM
  #32  
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...when I bought this, it had a set of the original, white plastic fenders on it. I knew that, as a former victim of a crash caused by fender jam, I would worry constantly about them as I rode, and it would be counterproductive to keep using them. So first I removed them, then when it got to the rainy season here, I replaced them with some SKS fenders that are a little less likely to cause problems.

Those wheels are a replacement for the originals, the rims of which which were both hookless and made of stainless steel, so heavy.

And I tossed the original steel stem, for something nicer in alloy, along with the steel bar, which weighted a ton.

I think most of the other stuff is original or close to it. I routinely toss old rubber stuff like tyres, tubes, and brake blocks, so that doesn't count. I'll use an old chain iff it's clean and not badly worn, but I often toss those too. I want something I can regularly ride without the adventure of a roadside repair.
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Old 11-21-21, 07:48 PM
  #33  
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Spoon brakes
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Old 11-21-21, 08:06 PM
  #34  
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  • Delrin derailleurs
  • Metal water bottle
  • wooden rims
  • vintage brake pads (old brakes are bad enough)
  • plastic bar tape
  • vintage shoes
  • bottle generator

also not a fan of tubular tires, but I do have them.
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Old 11-21-21, 08:48 PM
  #35  
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I prefer cartridge BBs these days.

Otto
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Old 11-21-21, 09:47 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66 View Post
I try to stay away from Maxy like these.

I'll include pull down Suntour derailleurs to.
why? That looks pretty good to me.
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Old 11-21-21, 11:01 PM
  #37  
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Most of the stuff mentioned, I wouldn't use.
But old tires?? LOL. In 2017 I got a 1973 CCM in really good shape. But anyway I wanted to change the rear SA 3 hub and tire size from 590, so I changed the whole wheels. Except the front hub that spun so easy.

I was using it to try the bike and service it along the way and wait for parts. So I just decided to wear the OLD tire out first. I changed the tube and put the old tire back on. The rubber was so hard I got out sandpaper for the inside lip. LOL. The front one then went a whole year and 1,930 miles. Second last ride was 45 miles around Jasper. Last ride was a 76 mile highway ride too. Got a nail with 30 miles to go. Fixed it and broke some more rubber off the lip. It wobbled slowly home. LOL.
Tire had to be 40+ years old. Rubber/ nylon?? in those days was actually far BETTER than what came out in the 1990s. They lasted 3 years before disintegrating. PERIOD.
The brand name was Ryker. I still have old the rear wheel as it was.

Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 11-22-21 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 11-22-21, 07:58 AM
  #38  
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I have two that are period correct, 83 Colnago Superissimo and a 1972 Bottecchia.

The Colnago was likely a frame only sale but with period components. There were only 4 items that were incorrect on the bike, the post, pedals, chain and block. all were replaced. Although the hubs were Mavic 501's, the weels were replaced with Campagnolo small flange set. I believe the rims are still correct.
1983 Colnago Superissimo on Flickr

The Bottecchia was purchased with a mix of parts, very few parts were correct. They were replaced with parts from the crashed Moto Le Champ and turned from a Giro to a Professional just with part replacement. I have yet to find a stem and still need to add the missing decals.
1972 Bottecchia Giro D'Italia (Professional conversion) on Flickr

The Pinarello is close to being period correct. I really don't know. I do have the DA stuff it had at purchase. The preference is to use it as a rider with more modern parts.
P1050224 on Flickr

Then there is the current favorite that is no where near period correct and is a joy to ride. Again, 1988 De Rosa Professional with a mix of Campagnolo 10 speed components.
P1050284 on Flickr

The next project is a 1983 Trek 760. It will have near period correct parts of Suntour Superbe Pro variety. The hidden springs calipers rival dual pivots in performance and the shifting is a lot of fun. It is also the lightest bike in the stable. It will likely be painted black at some point but it will continue to be an ugly sleeper in the stable. I am looking forward to riding it on a longer route.
P1040796 on Flickr

Always forgetting this beast. It is all correct except for the conversion to 7 sprocket block and HB shifters. Saddles also replaced.
1994 Burley Duet in the raw on Flickr
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Old 11-23-21, 09:38 AM
  #39  
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The first tech (not worn consumables) I dispose of is pedals with toe clips. But, I keep some around in case I ever want to do another Eroica.
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Old 11-23-21, 12:03 PM
  #40  
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Component-wise, there isn’t much made prior to 1985 that I’ll use. When Shimano came out with 7400, then 1050, then 6400 (note that both of those series included non-aero brake levers with SLR technology) every component was a revelation. The braking power that came with 6401/7403 was just astounding. Mid-late 80’s Deore stuff is still some of the best triple crank touring bits I’ve ever ridden for that purpose, and it Just.Won’t.Die.

Only real exception is first gen/early Dura Ace, and even that…not for racy bike rides.
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Old 11-23-21, 12:40 PM
  #41  
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I guess I'm brave, stupid or over confident in my thinking. From iab 's list the thing that would stop me is the wooden rims. That is until they were removed from the spokes and refinished. Then an occasional short ride would be fun. Old tires and tubes and all else would be scrutinized but, if it looked ok, I'd ride it. Right now I have a pair of tires on a bike from the 1980"s. They were skinwall tires. Most of the latex has come off. But I can still pump them up with only one bulge which I will place a piece of silk tie material into to reinforce it. This is only temporary until I decide how much I like the bike and which specific tires I would get. I am tempted to get a jar of liquid Latex and go over the cotton cords. The rest of tire is good.

Cottered cranks. No problem.
Plastic derailleurs, well we know they have a limit life so I wouldn't go too far on them.
Galvanized spokes, yea, as long as they are not thinned out by rust.
Tubulars, yea
Steel rims, as long as they are not rusted too badly
Old freewheels, they don't make them like they used to and I prefer to rebuild them when I can, so a big yes
Old brake pads, only if they are still up to reasonable braking, otherwise replacements are inexpensive
Spoon brakes, I wish I had a bike with spoon brakes (that were original)
Old tubes, yea, I would rather patch some of the old tubes than get the new tubes with presta valves 3" (or more) long
Dork disks, sometimes they look right, like on my Schwinn Continental
Toe clips. Yes. I am using them on only one bike now. And I don't have SPD's or other shoe pedal interfaces.
Turkey Levers, Safety Lever, Extension Levers. I tried. They just don't do it for me

The "Death Fork", Aha! There it is. The one piece of old tech I would not ride. I have a Lampert that has had the death fork replaced by a Tange fork by the previous owner. Thank you Yamaha.
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Old 11-23-21, 03:07 PM
  #42  
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Things I would willingly do without ever again:

52/42 chainwheels for any place less flat than a beach.
downtube shifters (I have several sets of Suntour barcons stashed away)
steel wheels (except with the 3 speeds)
Campy Valentino
sidepull brakes

Last edited by pfaustus; 11-29-21 at 11:07 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old 11-23-21, 03:12 PM
  #43  
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Centerpull brakes....... I just find them quite fugly......
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Old 11-23-21, 03:45 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by uncle uncle View Post
Pre PBA plastic water bottles.
BPA can be washed off with repeated washing:
https://www.cbc.ca/news/washing-can-...-says-1.732388
So don't throw away that Campagnolo C-Record bottle yet!
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Old 11-23-21, 03:53 PM
  #45  
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Old 11-23-21, 04:25 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee View Post
BPA can be washed off with repeated washing:
https://www.cbc.ca/news/washing-can-...-says-1.732388
So don't throw away that Campagnolo C-Record bottle yet!
Thats good, got a bunch of the aero bottles that Iíve been using since about the mid eighties. Bought a case of those suckers when they first came out, pretty much a lifetime supply, they seem to last forever.
Tim
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Old 11-23-21, 05:15 PM
  #47  
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Never thought about using wooden rims. If I had a machine of such vintage, I'd be afraid of damaging the rims beyond a short test ride.

I wouldn't use old lights as new ones are so much better. And I see no reason to use old consumables.

Otherwise I can think of nothing I would be unwilling to use. There is new tech I'd be willing to use, but I wouldn't be unwilling to use the vintage equivalent.
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Old 11-23-21, 05:29 PM
  #48  
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French derailleurs. After several disappointments and outright failures, I'm just not willing to go there any more. Although my wife has a Huret Duopar on her 1984 Trek 620 that works quite well (for now).
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Old 11-23-21, 07:42 PM
  #49  
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I refuse to use.

Any Simplex derailleurs.

Huret rear derailleurs.

Any type of cottered crank unless the bike only works with cottered cranks.

Steel handlebars, unless there is a reason that I have to.

I have not and will not put steel square taper cranks on any of my bikes.
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Old 11-23-21, 07:57 PM
  #50  
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Trygg kickstands. strap-on leg lights (mentioned earlier), bulb horns, streamers, hockey cards in the spokes, transistor radios, battery powered anything, generators that run off of tires, Perry (and other) coaster brake hubs, plastic spiral housing protectors, Esge racks. That's most of it.
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