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Wrenching yes; Touch up painting No

Old 12-30-21, 01:19 PM
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Wrenching yes; Touch up painting No

Kind of an addendum to the rider, wrencher, collector thread. I enjoy wrenching, but have little patience for the precise detail work needed for touching up paint on a nicer frame. That is above wrencher tinkerer and crosses into artistic. I am attempting it again now and am looking at it as a necessary step before I can grab wrenches and grease for the fun reassembly. Iíve seen beautiful work here which lets me know it can be done, but probably not by me. Oh well.
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Old 12-30-21, 02:10 PM
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I picked up a pearl Raleigh Competition a couple of months ago that I thought was going to need some touchup. Pearl was going to be a pain I thought. After cleaning it up, I decided to leave it as is as it really wasn't that bad after all.

My next project is going to be a Gazelle money pit. I'm seriously thinking about doing the best Krylon multiple coats and wet sanding I can do because I may as well waste time as well as money.
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Old 12-30-21, 02:18 PM
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An airbrush or touch-up paint guns are the best for metallics. There is little/no blotching of clear with metallics falling to the bottom of the area being touched up.


IMO, better for metallics....

Nice for touch-ups.
Best, Ben
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Old 12-30-21, 02:54 PM
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I agree that good touch up is really difficult.
It is not only finding a good color match, it's good prep and then meticulous application of said paint.
Way above my pay grade.
My hat is off to anybody that can do it well.
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Old 12-30-21, 03:14 PM
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...besides what has already been said here, it often works out that even with a good color match, fading the touched up area into the area you are repairing is difficult. One workaround is to simply mask off the rest of the bike, with the exception of the frame member you're working on. For example, some bikes are OK except for the stays. So you can mask off the rest of the frame, and simply spray out the stays, after you prep the chips with sanding.

The other thing to learn is that it is pretty rare to find a paint color that is completely opaque, especially in the metallic colors. So you often need to figure out what the primer color is on a particular frame, and prime the area again in places where both the color and the primer are missing.

Rauler blue and Colnago blue are basically the same color coat paint, with a different primer under the blue.
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Old 12-30-21, 03:52 PM
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Mine is not big areas, just numerous chips and small nicks from use since 1972 on this one. I am dabbing paint in the chipped areas and have some 800 and 1200 grit paper. It’s only original once, so trying to keep it stock looking. Good from 3 feet is my goal here. I see some before and after pics here and am amazed. I will try the polishing compound then. Will also do my first graphics and maybe clear coat. Give me a wrench instead please.
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Old 12-30-21, 05:14 PM
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...I'm so old and nearsighted, I don't see a lot of the smaller chips from 3 feet away any more.
Helps a lot. And some of the squeaks and rattles that used to bother me have stopped because I don't hear them.

But if a lot of chips are on one frame member, like a stay, it's almost always simpler to mask off and respray that one thing from end to end.
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Old 12-30-21, 05:58 PM
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While I heard that red trucks don't rust, its black bikes that can truly hide a multitude of sins... and the most crude rust treatments and touch ups.
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Old 12-30-21, 06:22 PM
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I often do touchups,rather poorly. I still find them an improvement.
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Old 12-30-21, 06:23 PM
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I'd also count myself among those who don't have the skill or patience for this, but I've had some surprisingly good results mixed in with some terrible results. My current project looks really good in the garage, but when I took it out to n the sunlight today the touched up spots made themselves quite visible.

I have definitely found that black and various shades of red are easier than most other colors.
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Old 12-30-21, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
.
And some of the squeaks and rattles that used to bother me have stopped because I don't hear them.
I can't ride with my hearing aids as sweat shorts out the batteries. I had a noise on one of my bikes that because of my hearing, I couldn't decide was coming from the free hub or bottom bracket. I switched to Look compatible pedals a while back. Yesterday I couldn't hear it at all so either my hearing is worse or the noise was the SPD pedals and metal cleats. At any rate I sure enjoyed the ride without that noise.
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Old 12-30-21, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I'd also count myself among those who don't have the skill or patience for this, but I've had some surprisingly good results mixed in with some terrible results. My current project looks really good in the garage, but when I took it out to n the sunlight today the touched up spots made themselves quite visible.

I have definitely found that black and various shades of red are easier than most other colors.
One of the reasons is that the surface is not smooth around the repaired area. It isn't just about a color match. It is a bit of a complicated process but a good repair often requires smoothing out extra clear so that damaged area doesn't reflect light in a different way. That may involve extra coats of both color and clears requiring both sanding and polishing with compounds.
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Old 12-30-21, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug Fattic View Post
One of the reasons is that the surface is not smooth around the repaired area. It isn't just about a color match. It is a bit of a complicated process but a good repair often requires smoothing out extra clear so that damaged area doesn't reflect light in a different way. That may involve extra coats of both color and clears requiring both sanding and polishing with compounds.
That makes sense. It's a metallic paint with a really deep look to it. In the sun, the patched spots look darker than the rest of the paint.
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Old 12-31-21, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by xiaoman1 View Post
An airbrush or touch-up paint guns are the best for metallics.
Yeah. Iíve been trying to use a paint brush to touch up the metallic blue paint on my Nishiki Aero II, and the results are horrendously bad because I can never get all the colors and metal flakes even. I think I have to learn to use spray gun. What air compressor do you need for that?
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Old 12-31-21, 12:22 AM
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An example I repaired last summer:






...the three main tubes of the frame, and the lugs were pretty much OK. The decals were not perfect, but acceptable.
There were a lot of little chips from chain slap on the chainstay, as well as some on both seat stays.

The fork was chrome, but it was starting to fail in many places, where you could see blooms of discoloration.

This was the final result, using a spray can of a metallic color custom mixed by the local Auto Paint store nearby, prepping those areas by sanding the stays smooth (and roughing he chrome fork), then priming and painting those while the rest of the bike frame was masked with tape and newsprint. I then did a final clear coat of Spraymax 2K urethane. This turned out better than I had hoped.
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Old 12-31-21, 03:51 AM
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^^^ nice work. I will leave the painting for someone else. If I could get results like that I would be tempted but that is a skill I lack. I really don’t mind that some of my bikes are less than perfect and the chips don’t bother me much.
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Old 12-31-21, 04:09 AM
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I’m with the OP on this one. I did a Rustoleum job this past year, and I revived an old faded paint job on another and covered it with clear varnish, but I don’t think I’ll do this again. I’ll either preserve the paint or get a good powder coat in the future. I just don’t have the patience, and the reward of riding the bike is still so far off once you get the frame to a good state. I’m happy I did all this once, but it’s really not my thing.
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Old 12-31-21, 07:07 AM
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Looks like I’m not alone. Good thing it’s winter and I am retired and have time as I am forcing myself to at least dabble a bit in this art. My largest damaged areas are perhaps 3x10cm. The 800 and 1200 sandpaper made a nice finish, but my color match is off. Looks like that first coat will be considered primer. The factory paint seems thick and tough which seems to help a bit.

I have done some crude touch ups before, but this is an attempt to up my skills a wee bit. That first coat as primer is good perhaps as this frame is chrome underneath. That may be why my color match was off too. I am also repairing a gray/silver sort of color which I’ve heard in the automotive world is hard to match. Nice winter chores I guess.
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Old 12-31-21, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sd5782 View Post
Looks like Iím not alone. Good thing itís winter and I am retired and have time as I am forcing myself to at least dabble a bit in this art. My largest damaged areas are perhaps 3x10cm. The 800 and 1200 sandpaper made a nice finish, but my color match is off. Looks like that first coat will be considered primer. The factory paint seems thick and tough which seems to help a bit.

I have done some crude touch ups before, but this is an attempt to up my skills a wee bit. That first coat as primer is good perhaps as this frame is chrome underneath. That may be why my color match was off too. I am also repairing a gray/silver sort of color which Iíve heard in the automotive world is hard to match. Nice winter chores I guess.
sd, here is an idea that might work for you and others sometimes. My friend Tom (a now recently retired UPS driver) brought by this Schwinn to me to be refreshed. He sanded the whole frame lightly but throughly with very fine sandpaper to prepare the surface for clear coats. He didn't even have me spray some touch up black in areas of missing paint. When I sprayed the new final clears for him, I added an additive that cuts polyurethane's gloss. I think the final result is decent. It now has an its old/its new look.

btw, I haven't forgotten our correspondence about your Super Sport frame. I have to show Tom painting procedures now that he has retired. You're welcome to come too for a day or two. Toledo is an easy drive away from Niles on the Indiana Toll Road. I've got 2 yellow Super Sport bicycles that I usually keep in my spray booth to be out of my way unless I am painting. They were given for me to sell with the understanding the proceeds go towards our Ukraine Bicycle Project. I'm thinking they should be repainted when the bikes are overhauled. I could use some help with that. My only fear is that you and Tom will start talking about working at UPS and that might make me want to punch out my eardrums.

I
an old Chicago Schwinn with a new clear coat
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Old 12-31-21, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee View Post
Yeah. I’ve been trying to use a paint brush to touch up the metallic blue paint on my Nishiki Aero II, and the results are horrendously bad because I can never get all the colors and metal flakes even. I think I have to learn to use spray gun. What air compressor do you need for that?
IMC,
with the air brush, I use an olde tankless model for non metallic...I think its rated at 1/5hp. When shooting with metallic paint and a touch up gun I use my craftsmen with a 1.7 hp motor, The air pressure will vary depending on the consistency of the paint that you are using......When using a nail polish to touch up metallics the metallic particles will not rise/flow because the paint is too thick, the "guns" will give you a better flow-out and control. Practice on the pressure and mixture of the paint, I does take time to master the skill but touch up can be more than satisfactory.

A few tips:
Use a loose masking technique when painting.....meaning do not tape a hard line around the area being painted. I tear a ragged edge of paper and "lift it off of the surface of the frame and paint "over it towards the damaged area using light cotes.
You can also cut/tear a hole in an index card, hold it away from the frame and spray the paint through it. moving the card so that you do not have a hard edge...easier to blend.
Good luck, Ben
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Old 12-31-21, 11:19 AM
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Thanks Doug

Originally Posted by Doug Fattic View Post
sd, here is an idea that might work for you and others sometimes. My friend Tom (a now recently retired UPS driver) brought by this Schwinn to me to be refreshed. He sanded the whole frame lightly but throughly with very fine sandpaper to prepare the surface for clear coats. He didn't even have me spray some touch up black in areas of missing paint. When I sprayed the new final clears for him, I added an additive that cuts polyurethane's gloss. I think the final result is decent. It now has an its old/its new look.

btw, I haven't forgotten our correspondence about your Super Sport frame. I have to show Tom painting procedures now that he has retired. You're welcome to come too for a day or two. Toledo is an easy drive away from Niles on the Indiana Toll Road. I've got 2 yellow Super Sport bicycles that I usually keep in my spray booth to be out of my way unless I am painting. They were given for me to sell with the understanding the proceeds go towards our Ukraine Bicycle Project. I'm thinking they should be repainted when the bikes are overhauled. I could use some help with that. My only fear is that you and Tom will start talking about working at UPS and that might make me want to punch out my eardrums.

I
an old Chicago Schwinn with a new clear coat
Thanks for the offer, and I may take you up on. I wouldnít ever have enough bikes to invest in spray equipment, but learning would be of great interest. That Schwinn in black is a seldom seen color, and I understand the patina look too. Iím off to buy some 1500 grit paper and a better match of Testors. This old Super Sport is way past touch up stage and was bought from my co-op for parts. Too small for me too.





Interestingly, the chrome parts on 72 this bike were fantastic and helped me complete a time capsule restoration on another 73. I joke with my wife that I could repair bikes for money in my retirement and make tens of dollars.
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Old 12-31-21, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sd5782 View Post
Looks like I’m not alone. Good thing it’s winter and I am retired and have time as I am forcing myself to at least dabble a bit in this art. My largest damaged areas are perhaps 3x10cm. The 800 and 1200 sandpaper made a nice finish, but my color match is off. Looks like that first coat will be considered primer. The factory paint seems thick and tough which seems to help a bit.

I have done some crude touch ups before, but this is an attempt to up my skills a wee bit. That first coat as primer is good perhaps as this frame is chrome underneath. That may be why my color match was off too. I am also repairing a gray/silver sort of color which I’ve heard in the automotive world is hard to match. Nice winter chores I guess.
...there are a boatload of variations on metallic silver. Not only the color and value will vary, but the flake itself is all over the map. I just stripped and painted an entire frame last summer, that was not that bad, and had good decals still, just because I didn't want to fiddle around with matching the silver paint on it.

OTOH, think how much you will learn.
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Old 12-31-21, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by sd5782 View Post
Thanks for the offer, and I may take you up on. I wouldn’t ever have enough bikes to invest in spray equipment, but learning would be of great interest.
The principles of painting are the same whether I am using my expensive equipment or you are spraying outside with a rattle can. So any knowledge you get is transferable. Also it is possible to set yourself up with an inexpensive spray gun and compressor that would be a big improvement over rattle cans or brushing. Not knowing how is a huge barrier to getting started with a real spray gun. Once you see how it do it, you will probably want to go to that next stage.

My motives for inviting you aren't pure. Doing the wrenching and sandblasting on the matching pair of Super Sports would save me time and get them out of my way. Of course I'm sure Tom will eventually be able to do that for us so my salesmanship ability on you won't be the determining factor in getting money out of them so those guys on the Ukrainian Russian border can have a bicycle to get around. Non military motorized vehicles are not allowed on the roads. They get to choose between riding a bicycle or walking. Of course they can't afford either a car or gas to run it anyway.
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Old 12-31-21, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...there are a boatload of variations on metallic silver.
I have touched up for years with great to OK results until silver! I could not agree more with you. I have tried for months to get even in the ballpark on a custom with spotty paint damage and have failed miserably. Various silvers and light and dark to mix from model shops, hobby stores, hardware stores and everything I have done is terrible. I am on my second Prep Pen sanding pen from removing touchups. I doubt I will ever get another keeper but if I do I can guarantee it will not be silver!
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