Atom freewheel & Normandy hub ?s
 

The PX-10 I picked up a while back had 27" steel Rigida/Normandy sport replacement wheels on it. I'm going back and forth about whether to try a 650B conversion or do 700c on this rebuild (and the point of the post isn't to start a debate about the pros/cons of 650B and yes, I've taken the measurements....). I've never built a wheel, but ready to learn/try, so while the Normandy Sport hubs aren't exactly high-end, they're what I've got here and they're in pretty good shape, so I'm thinking that's what I'll use for this first attempt.
First question is if there is any way to tell if a rear hub is English or French threaded without removing the freewheel? If it's French, I may not bother using these hubs as I don't think I'll be able to easily find a 6 or 7 sp freewheel with the gearing I want in FR threading (the frame is cold-set to 126mm).
Second question is what tool I need to remove the Atom freewheel? I think it's the Park FR-4, but not 100% sure.
Last question is can a 120mm hub be used for 6/7sp in a 126mm spaced rear triangle? It's my understanding that it can with the addition of a spacer(s) and (if needed) a longer axle.
Thanks

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The only way to determine if the threading is BSO or French is to remove the freewheel and take a look at the underside of the freewheel at the markings. Or take a known French threaded BB cup and check to see if it threads into the freewheel body.

The FR-4 tool is the correct one for removal.

Yes, though in your case it may be difficult. Without a spoke-protector it is easier.

English-threaded Normandy and Atom and (some?) Maillard hubs have a groove machined around the freewheel seat outer circumference. It can be seen in good light if that part of the hub is clean - look at the centre where the light reflects and it should be obvious:


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You have a spoke-protector which may well obscure the ring location. If so you could fashion a feeler from a bit of stiff thin wire and check for the groove from between the flanges.

And regardlesss of threading before you consider re-using those hubs check the cones for pitting. They all pit, and most of them sooner than they should.

I was afraid that would be the case- I'll see if I can get a feeler in there and..... feel something! At least the Park tool isn't too $$$.
The cones look good, though now I wonder about future availability of replacements, should they be needed...

New spokes, nipples, and rims for Normandy Sport hubs?? French or English I’d leave them on those rims as back up or future flip as they are not worthy of a PX-10.

As Pastor Bob notes, you have to remove the freewheel to check, either measuring the threads directly, trying a bottom bracket cup of known thread spec on the freewheel threads, or finding the sometimes arcane marking on the back of the freewheel body that indicates thread spec.

Yes, Atom uses the same splined pattern as Zeus and later production Regina and Everest. The Park FR-4 will work, or the Bicycle Research CT-2, Zeus, or Phil Wood tools. If the freewheel is mounted on a Campagnolo Record, Zeus, or Phil Wood hub, the Zeus and Phil Wood tools are the only ones that work without having to remove the drive-side locknut and spacer to mount the tool.

A longer axle and spacers is the preferred solution. You can squeeze the frame, or cold-set it to the narrower width, but doing it right with a longer axle is best.

Maybe not, but they're what I've got and while the pandemic has been great for me for ride-time, it continues to have a huge detrimental effect on my income & I have to strategize with my cycle-spending....:( However, a magnifying-glass exam of the front cones shows some very fine pitting, so it may be moot.

If the bike budget will be tight for some time, make do with the wheels you have. If you are certain that you must have alloy rims, Then replace the rims only to use the same $poke$. A little pitting discovered with a magnifying glass is insignificant in my experience. As a warm up to building wheels, try backing off your spokes and ret-ensioning. And if you haven't already, put a drop of liquid wrench at each spoke/nipple where the spoke enters and from inside the rim.