You don’t have to worry about both sides. The drive side is the problem so work on it…at least first. The nondrive side crank arm with a cotter pin will hold the wrench in place better than a c-clamp. It’s also handy.

So both sides would have taken a lock-ring? I wonder if as English thread BBs, they were installed reversed..where the left side thread was installed in the right side shell, and vice versa...which brings up a conundrum...

If true, then the drive side would have to backed out in the reverse it would ordinarily (instead of clockwise removal...the reverse...or normal thread removal), as would the NDS (which would be normal counterclockwise removal...but would be removed clockwise).

Hard to tell...need to take a good look from the up close.

Honestly, those cups and threads are likely bodged...you'll probably need to get the threads recut. Read the threads on the exposed cup and use a pipe wrench to remove it. Then know that the other cup will remove opposite and use the Sheldon Brown tool to remove.

That's how'd I'd attack it, but there are much smarter folks/wrenchers out there.

Looking at the first picture posted (of the NDS) it is what I thought. I think. You will have to remove it across the cross threading.

How the heck did they do that...?

Second photo in first post is of the non-drive side, and depicts a right-hand-thread cup, so no, it doesn't look like they've been installed in the wrong position left-to-right.

I had another similar bike that was an old 10 speed with 26" wheels that was probably made by the same manufacturer and it had the same thing. It's probably a manufacturing defect on these because it's so cheap.

The drive side pics.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7c17d2cfe.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...013a1aaeb3.jpg

What tool are you trying to use to turn the cups? A spanner of sorts?

you might wish to try to turn them opposite of how they should be if they are reverse cross threaded?

a pin spanner.

Guess you didn't see my advice about a hammer and punch. Pin spanner is far too weak.

it especially might work well if it isn’t really “stuck” but more reverse cross threaded.

Pin spanner is a no go for anything you need oomph for.

i remember seeing a homemade tool for these...it was a pair of channel locks with two ends ground into pins that fit into the slots.

i wonder if those bent needle nose pliers might help.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-90-Degree.../dp/B072JV2RV3

Freewheel tool clamped on? ;)

I wondered if the two prong SunTour tool would fit, but even if it did the spindle would be in the way until the first cup was off.

I got it out a couple of hours ago with a tool that the bike shop provided.

:thumb: Can we see the tool plz? ;)

Tx!

Should have known. :twitchy:

Always considered that one to be a bit wimpy.

Did you get both cups out with it, were they very stuck, actually crossthreaded?

I got both cups out. They were not really stuck.

The left side cup was defected, but the frame is fine. I am fitting a Sugino BB on it and I just need a 70mm square taper spindle.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...96dca40b19.jpg

I think you need to measure again. 70mm is far too short…if it is even available. Your bottom bracket shell is 68mm. I’d also suggest going with a Shimano BB-UN300 or similar sealed bottom bracket. It makes life much easier.

I actually tried the hammer and punch and it didn't work.

The original spindle is a 70mm spindle.

Glad I was completely wrong again...haha.

No way the spindle is 70 mm if the bottom bracket is English thread, which itself should be 68mm. Unless it is a mighty thin crank arm...!

Clearly, you need a bigger hammer.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4de541532.jpeg

I think you just don't understand what I'm talking about because I'm talking about the ridges that hold the bearings in and the distance between them.

Ok. I’m out. BSA BBs are 68mm for your reference.