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-   -   Stuck, crossthreaded BB. (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1245179-stuck-crossthreaded-bb.html)

cyccommute 01-16-22 12:23 AM


Originally Posted by Mad Honk (Post 22375627)
In the case that both sides are of the same design I would use a semi deep socket that will fit over the spindle but would engage the removal tool (or two one on each side) and then use a c-clamp to hold the tool in place. And then use a wrench and if needed a cheater bar. Smiles, MH

You don’t have to worry about both sides. The drive side is the problem so work on it…at least first. The nondrive side crank arm with a cotter pin will hold the wrench in place better than a c-clamp. It’s also handy.

jdawginsc 01-16-22 06:36 AM


Originally Posted by grant40 (Post 22375588)
The fixed side is the same style as the adjustable side except it is completely inside of the frame.

So both sides would have taken a lock-ring? I wonder if as English thread BBs, they were installed reversed..where the left side thread was installed in the right side shell, and vice versa...which brings up a conundrum...

If true, then the drive side would have to backed out in the reverse it would ordinarily (instead of clockwise removal...the reverse...or normal thread removal), as would the NDS (which would be normal counterclockwise removal...but would be removed clockwise).

Hard to tell...need to take a good look from the up close.

Honestly, those cups and threads are likely bodged...you'll probably need to get the threads recut. Read the threads on the exposed cup and use a pipe wrench to remove it. Then know that the other cup will remove opposite and use the Sheldon Brown tool to remove.

That's how'd I'd attack it, but there are much smarter folks/wrenchers out there.

jdawginsc 01-16-22 06:38 AM

Looking at the first picture posted (of the NDS) it is what I thought. I think. You will have to remove it across the cross threading.

How the heck did they do that...?

madpogue 01-16-22 11:57 AM

Second photo in first post is of the non-drive side, and depicts a right-hand-thread cup, so no, it doesn't look like they've been installed in the wrong position left-to-right.

grant40 01-16-22 03:45 PM


Originally Posted by jdawginsc (Post 22375792)
Looking at the first picture posted (of the NDS) it is what I thought. I think. You will have to remove it across the cross threading.

How the heck did they do that...?

I had another similar bike that was an old 10 speed with 26" wheels that was probably made by the same manufacturer and it had the same thing. It's probably a manufacturing defect on these because it's so cheap.

grant40 01-16-22 04:27 PM

The drive side pics.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7c17d2cfe.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...013a1aaeb3.jpg

jdawginsc 01-16-22 04:43 PM

What tool are you trying to use to turn the cups? A spanner of sorts?

you might wish to try to turn them opposite of how they should be if they are reverse cross threaded?

grant40 01-16-22 05:25 PM


Originally Posted by jdawginsc (Post 22376426)
What tool are you trying to use to turn the cups? A spanner of sorts?

you might wish to try to turn them opposite of how they should be if they are reverse cross threaded?

a pin spanner.

nlerner 01-16-22 05:56 PM


Originally Posted by grant40 (Post 22376476)
a pin spanner.

Guess you didn't see my advice about a hammer and punch. Pin spanner is far too weak.

jdawginsc 01-16-22 07:03 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 22376508)
Guess you didn't see my advice about a hammer and punch. Pin spanner is far too weak.

it especially might work well if it isn’t really “stuck” but more reverse cross threaded.

Pin spanner is a no go for anything you need oomph for.

i remember seeing a homemade tool for these...it was a pair of channel locks with two ends ground into pins that fit into the slots.

i wonder if those bent needle nose pliers might help.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-90-Degree.../dp/B072JV2RV3

merziac 01-16-22 08:02 PM

Freewheel tool clamped on? ;)

jdawginsc 01-16-22 08:04 PM


Originally Posted by merziac (Post 22376667)
Freewheel tool clamped on? ;)

I wondered if the two prong SunTour tool would fit, but even if it did the spindle would be in the way until the first cup was off.

grant40 01-16-22 08:31 PM

I got it out a couple of hours ago with a tool that the bike shop provided.

merziac 01-17-22 12:24 AM


Originally Posted by grant40 (Post 22376704)
I got it out a couple of hours ago with a tool that the bike shop provided.

:thumb: Can we see the tool plz? ;)

grant40 01-17-22 01:31 PM


Originally Posted by merziac (Post 22376878)
:thumb: Can we see the tool plz? ;)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cd1389d209.jpg

merziac 01-17-22 01:56 PM

Tx!

Should have known. :twitchy:

Always considered that one to be a bit wimpy.

Did you get both cups out with it, were they very stuck, actually crossthreaded?

grant40 01-17-22 03:18 PM


Originally Posted by merziac (Post 22377477)
Tx!

Should have known. :twitchy:

Always considered that one to be a bit wimpy.

Did you get both cups out with it, were they very stuck, actually crossthreaded?

I got both cups out. They were not really stuck.

grant40 01-17-22 03:19 PM

The left side cup was defected, but the frame is fine. I am fitting a Sugino BB on it and I just need a 70mm square taper spindle.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...96dca40b19.jpg

cyccommute 01-17-22 06:54 PM


Originally Posted by grant40 (Post 22377579)
The left side cup was defected, but the frame is fine. I am fitting a Sugino BB on it and I just need a 70mm square taper spindle.

I think you need to measure again. 70mm is far too short…if it is even available. Your bottom bracket shell is 68mm. I’d also suggest going with a Shimano BB-UN300 or similar sealed bottom bracket. It makes life much easier.

grant40 01-17-22 07:06 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 22376508)
Guess you didn't see my advice about a hammer and punch. Pin spanner is far too weak.

I actually tried the hammer and punch and it didn't work.

grant40 01-17-22 07:08 PM


Originally Posted by cyccommute (Post 22377787)
I think you need to measure again. 70mm is far too short…if it is even available. Your bottom bracket shell is 68mm. I’d also suggest going with a Shimano BB-UN300 or similar sealed bottom bracket. It makes life much easier.

The original spindle is a 70mm spindle.

jdawginsc 01-17-22 07:17 PM

Glad I was completely wrong again...haha.

No way the spindle is 70 mm if the bottom bracket is English thread, which itself should be 68mm. Unless it is a mighty thin crank arm...!

nlerner 01-17-22 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by grant40 (Post 22377794)
I actually tried the hammer and punch and it didn't work.

Clearly, you need a bigger hammer.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4de541532.jpeg

grant40 01-17-22 08:01 PM


Originally Posted by jdawginsc (Post 22377803)
Glad I was completely wrong again...haha.

No way the spindle is 70 mm if the bottom bracket is English thread, which itself should be 68mm. Unless it is a mighty thin crank arm...!

I think you just don't understand what I'm talking about because I'm talking about the ridges that hold the bearings in and the distance between them.

jdawginsc 01-17-22 08:47 PM


Originally Posted by grant40 (Post 22377836)
I think you just don't understand what I'm talking about because I'm talking about the ridges that hold the bearings in and the distance between them.

Ok. I’m out. BSA BBs are 68mm for your reference.


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