SDHawk

Just scored this one last week for $50. I think it's 100% original down to the tires (which are amazingly supple and ride great). Ok, the seat is a s Specialized, so that's one non-original bit.

Here's the 1989 Fisher catalog: https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...nualFisher.pdf

Only one problem. The right crank arm has some side-to-side play and the bolt head is stripped. I'm 95% sure the problem is where the arm attaches to the spindle (I think that's the name for it?). The BB seems very smooth an spins great. Left crank arm has no wobble. I'm guessing I need a new right crank arm? Is that the most likely problem?

Any thoughts about that would be appreciated , and how to remove the current arm given the bolt head issue.

Dylansbob 

Spray some good penetrating oil on that cap if you haven't already. If the hole is stripped, you'll have to destroy it to remove it. Usually people either file a slot for a flat screwdriver or drill two holes for a pin spanner. Once it's off, you'll be able to remove that right arm and see how bad it is. Older Shimano mtb cranks are still very plentiful used, especially if you have a co-op nearby.

Cool bike, I have a similar one in red.

Bianchigirll 

Fabulous find! It looks to be in great shape. One of those was first real mountain bike. Stupidly I gave it up for a Campagnolo equipped Cannondale. I would have loved to swap groups.

I always thought that Evolution HS was pretty cool but needed a taller top nut with afew more threads.

wrk101

I've got one and the stem is white. But who knows?

SDHawk

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a shot. Is it more likely that the crank is bad, or that the spindle (?, the "connector" that stick out of the BB) is bad? How could I pinpoint the problem?

Thanks for encouraging my bike problem.... such an enabler haha.

Yah, I wondered if the stem was aftermarket. But when I was looking up the bike online, I believe I saw a white one with a blue stem. And then there's this version that's all blue incl the blue stem. So it seems plausible it's original? No biggie . https://picclick.com/Vintage-1989-Fi...l#&gid=1&pid=1

DiegoFrogs

The taper on the crank is aluminum, and the taper on the bottom bracket's spindle is steel. If it was ridden loose for any length of time, it's usually the crank that loses the battle since aluminum is softer than steel.

You may be able to just replace the bolt and tighten it on there, though. It's hard to say.

SDHawk

Makes sense, thanks for the info. I'll report back when I am done.... gonna need some help so it might be a lil while.

SDHawk

Hi again,

Well good news and bad news. The stripped bolt head was only the circular cover disc. I eventually got it off. I tightened the crank bolt and....no more wiggle! I thought I was done, but a 5 min ride later it's loose again.

I tried tightening a little harder, but haven't tested it yet.

What are options for getting the bolt to stay tight? Would putting on a lock washer help.... or is that a no-no? I saw a video where a guy used locktite. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

merziac

We need pics of the bolt or nut and the end of the crank, take the cap off and tighten the bolt or nut, then remove the bolt or nut and take a good pic of the crank/spindle, if it is flush with the crank it may be compromised and not be able to tighten enough anymore.

If its a nut, it should be serrated to grab the crank to stay tight, if a bolt there should be a washer and either way needs to be properly torqued to stay tight. If the crank arm is tight on the spindle when torqued then Loctite/super glue may help and still needs to be properly torqued.

If the crank has come loose to many times already, then the war may be lost.

merziac

No worries, we aim to please, you're in the right place.

Soody

Probably:
The bolt isn't loosening.
It stays in the same place. The crank is moving away from it, further up the taper. The taper hole on the crank arm is badly damaged from being ridden loose and this will always happen, it will just keep getting worse, and it will never stay tight. But the bolt itself is not the issue, especially if you torque it down super hard (as you should), how do you imagine it loosening?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/...ng-cranks.html

You may find this helpful.
Likely the solution is a new crank. First though, I would suggest removing the crank arm, cleaning it and the bottom bracket thoroughly, inspecting the spindle to see if that is worn, replacing the bb if it is, and then lightly greasing the taper, and the bolt, and tightening -hard as f- (to drive the crank onto the taper) and then re-tightening 'somewhat tight' for ~6 rides (to snug the bolt against the crank that automatically has walked some way up the taper, but not drive it further).

ollo_ollo

Nice find! Here's my peacock blue HK-II comfort cruiser.

At home in Oregon

Or Florida
It has a few age appropriate, old man mods: V/O bar, Vetta "Bassano" leather saddle, Mt. Zefal fenders, 26 x 2" Cyclepro kevlar slicks. Don

SDHawk

Thanks a lot. I took the crank arm off and spindle looked good to me. Taper hole was not smooth but I cleaned and lubed and tightened "hard as f-" which I hadn't done before. I've done a couple of short 5-mile rides and it didn't come loose and wobble as it had before. However, after each ride I was able to tighten the bolt just a hair more as instructed. So we'll see what happens after a few more rides. Thanks again.

clubman 

If you have to break a sweat everytime, it may be easier to replace the crank arms. There's a gabillion (yes a real number), of them around.

Nice bike! You too ollo_ollo I think Fishers are some of the most underrated production bikes for the wrong reasons.

SDHawk

Thanks. I have patience if nothing else and I'm gonna ride it a few more times to see what happens. Maybe it'll settle in to a happy place where the bolt remains locked down.