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The KHS ZH2B Aero Comp just arrived!

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The KHS ZH2B Aero Comp just arrived!

Old 01-21-22, 07:43 PM
  #1  
jamesdak 
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The KHS ZH2B Aero Comp just arrived!

It seems to have survived the trip, only thing missing was one spring for the front QR. Bike is grimy with a fair amount of grease on it. But really seems like it's pretty nice under all the mess. Was expecting to have to revive the STI shifters but they are working. There's some rust on some parts and frayed cables but to be honest it doesn't look like it's seen much use.


Overall, not bad I don't think.

That's the worse cable, jockey wheels look good.

Doesn't seem like a lot of wear here either.

Steel wool will hopefully sort out most of the rust. Otherwise I've probably got a replacement in my stash

Calipers look good too.

Headset feels fine but I'll sort that out too.

Shifters decent, tape bad.

Dirty and dried grease but working OK.


21 lbs 4 ozs without any pedals. The wipedown begins and then the teardown. I'll post a full set of pics once it's done. I'm fine with the price I nabbed this for including the shipping. Seems like a solid enough ride and should be a simple project for me.
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Old 01-21-22, 08:32 PM
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very cool
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Old 01-22-22, 08:16 AM
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A couple of details I noticed last night cleaning it up.

It appears to have a replacement 50T large chainring on it pair with a 39T.

Then the tube shaping and such. Front forks not that unusual, flattened blades. Top tube is partially flattened on the sides where it goes into the headtube. Then it's flattened again top to bottom as it goes into the seattube. Fastback setup for the seatstays into the seattube. And then the most noticeable thing is the downtube shaped into a triangular shape. It appears oversized but that may just be due to the shaping. Oh, of course the curved seattube also.

The wheels are Shimano 105 hubbed with Sun Mistral rims that have a sort aero shape. I don't really know these rims as I think it's the first bike I've gotten with them on it. The rear does need truing as the seller said so I'll be pulling those off it initially. I'll go through the hubs and service them then drop them off at The Bike Shoppe to be trued. This is a "betweener" bike to me where it can have either modern wheels or the originals and look Ok. The final decision on wheels will probable come after so test rides to see if I like how it feels and of course, if it fits.

I've got some sweet Dura Ac hubbed/Open Pro rims I can use on it for now maybe. I just threw the front on and with a Grand Prix 4000s II 700 x 25 the tire clears but not by much. I may wind up trying some old Kyserium SLSCC have with smaller Veloflex 700 x 25 tires. Guess I'll see how the rear works once I pull off the original and yank off the cassette to clean it. Either wheelset will probably drop close to a pound off this bike.

Frames dimensions seem a bit odd to me. Top tube is measuring around 54.5cm CTC. The seattube though is 51cm CTC and 55cm center of BB to the top of the seattube. Pretty sure this is the middle size of these frames that only came in three sizes. I found pics of a smaller frame where the downtube and top tube pretty much touch going into the headtube.

Quick wipedown last night confirmed that the frame overall is really nice. DIdn't find any dings, cracks, or such. Paint is probably an 8/10. Some scrapes or small chips but not bad by my standards. The only bad scrapes are one on the inside of the fork blade and another on the down tube that should be concealed by a bottle cage when mounted. I'll touch those up to keep them sealed. There's also some areas that look cloudy, maybe from sweat not being wiped off. Not sure how or if I'll bother with those.

It shifts through all the gear ranges but things are gummy for sure. Rear isn't releasing all the time on downshifts and the brakes cables/housings are certainly gummy. I may try just new cables and flushing the current housings but usually it's best to just put on new housing too. When I bought it I was thinking it would look good with white bartape, white saddle and white cable housing. But now I'm thinking the black housing blends into the frame well and I should stick to that.

Chain is gummy but shows no wear. I'll swap in a new on anyway.

Need to figure out gearing on this too with that 50T being on there. Cassette is a 12-21 8 speed on it right now.

Anyway, this is an enigma bike for me right now. Not sure if it's a keeper, a fix 'er up and sell 'er, or maybe this years bike Coop contribution. I'll need to decide on that and then figure out what to do with it. If I keep it I've got Dura Ace from 7400 to 7800 that could go on it. That would not make any sense to do though if selling. I'm pretty sure no matter how nice I fix it up it's not going to draw enough on a local sale to come close to what I put into it. Still, gives me another little project to play with so all is good. What I don't want to do is wind up like I have with my Prologue TT. Fixed it all up with brand new Dura Ace/Ultegra 10 speed gear, wheels, etc, only to get wrecked by that dog and now unable to ride the bike. It's been listed a long time now locally for not much more than the cost of the wheels with no takers. Of course that is another option for me. Take all the parts off the Prologue and hang then on this KHS if I like the bike and can get it to fit.

Anyway, miscellaneous ramblings as I ponder this one early this morning. Now back to another mug of coffee to try and jumpstart the ol' brain and body this morning.
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Old 01-22-22, 09:31 AM
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Lovely project. Hope it goes OK.
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Old 01-22-22, 10:11 AM
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Conversion to a 50 tooth big ring clearly done by an amateur, as the FD is still high on the mount. A little filing will bring it down closer to the ring for crisper shifting.
After you do your usual top flight clean and tune & get some riding time in, if you keep it maybe swap over all the stuff from the Prologue TT and either sell that as a bare frame or substitute the 105 stuff from the KHS and drop the price. Bet the bare frame would sell faster on eBay as it’s a real specialty item. Plus easier and safer to ship a frame than a whole bike if you hate to do it
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Old 01-22-22, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Conversion to a 50 tooth big ring clearly done by an amateur, as the FD is still high on the mount. A little filing will bring it down closer to the ring for crisper shifting.
After you do your usual top flight clean and tune & get some riding time in, if you keep it maybe swap over all the stuff from the Prologue TT and either sell that as a bare frame or substitute the 105 stuff from the KHS and drop the price. Bet the bare frame would sell faster on eBay as it’s a real specialty item. Plus easier and safer to ship a frame than a whole bike if you hate to do it
Yep, this makes sense. I've been saying for a year now that I was going to just strip the TT down and then hang the frame on the wall in the bike cave. I do have a standing offer from a local shop in SLC for just the frame and wheels so there's that too. In the back of my mind I kept hoping the shoulder was getting better and would allow me to ride the Prologue but after an attempt a couple of months back reality said otherwise.

The FD is working as is and not a real immediate concern. I think no matter what I wind up doing with this it's going to have a 53T back on it.
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Old 01-22-22, 11:04 AM
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Continuing to play with this a bit this morning before I get serious on it. On sorta silly question for the smart ones here. I've never had a frame with an extended seat tube like this one. To get my normal saddle height the max line on this seatpost is about 3/4" below the top of the extended seat tube. I assume this is safe?


Max level on the seatpost is below the clamping assembly.

With this saddle/seatpost combo right now I can get the right height but the setback is about 3/4" forward of my norm. May not be a bad thing on this bike. With the saddle where it is right now the saddle to handlebar reach turned out to be spot on.

Also, with the bike set back upright the tire clearance on the front is not quite as tight as it seemed at first with the Dura Ace wheels. The Dura Arc/Open Pro rear has plenty of room. What surprised me was that the Kyserium with new Velofles Corsa Race 700 x 25 tires had even less clearance on the front. The older version of Veloflex tires always seemed to come in smaller than the Conti 4000s II but of course it could be a difference in the rims.
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Old 01-22-22, 12:14 PM
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Snowy and cold outside so all I'm doing this morning is playing with this, The wheel/tire swap dropped 7 ozs off the total weight.

Looking at the bottom of the rear dropputs closely it looks like at least 3 color bases on purple parts of the frame. A pink primer layer, followed by a lighter purple and then the top coat of a darker purple. I guess clear on top of that.

Grabbed on mandatory garage door shot of it this morning. This is after an initial wipe down last night. I also cleaned the really greasy and nasty cassette before moving it over to these other wheels.



Even with at least a dozen spare saddles floating around I didn't have any white ones like I wanted to use on this. But as luck would have it, two more white Fizik Kurve Chameleon saddles showed up on Ebay and are now on their way too me. These are my favorite saddles. That will let me take the white Fizik Antares R3 off the Paletti to use on this. The Paletti will get a Kurve on it to kick it's superior ride up another notch!
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Old 01-22-22, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
Frames dimensions seem a bit odd to me. Top tube is measuring around 54.5cm CTC. The seattube though is 51cm CTC
Is it because the seat tube angle is steeper than normal? Such that the longer top tube would end up putting your butt in the same place as it would be on a conventional frame?
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Old 01-22-22, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
A couple of details I noticed last night cleaning it up.

It appears to have a replacement 50T large chainring on it pair with a 39T.

Then the tube shaping and such. Front forks not that unusual, flattened blades. Top tube is partially flattened on the sides where it goes into the headtube. Then it's flattened again top to bottom as it goes into the seattube. Fastback setup for the seatstays into the seattube. And then the most noticeable thing is the downtube shaped into a triangular shape. It appears oversized but that may just be due to the shaping. Oh, of course the curved seattube also.

The wheels are Shimano 105 hubbed with Sun Mistral rims that have a sort aero shape. I don't really know these rims as I think it's the first bike I've gotten with them on it. The rear does need truing as the seller said so I'll be pulling those off it initially. I'll go through the hubs and service them then drop them off at The Bike Shoppe to be trued. This is a "betweener" bike to me where it can have either modern wheels or the originals and look Ok. The final decision on wheels will probable come after so test rides to see if I like how it feels and of course, if it fits.

I've got some sweet Dura Ac hubbed/Open Pro rims I can use on it for now maybe. I just threw the front on and with a Grand Prix 4000s II 700 x 25 the tire clears but not by much. I may wind up trying some old Kyserium SLSCC have with smaller Veloflex 700 x 25 tires. Guess I'll see how the rear works once I pull off the original and yank off the cassette to clean it. Either wheelset will probably drop close to a pound off this bike.

Frames dimensions seem a bit odd to me. Top tube is measuring around 54.5cm CTC. The seattube though is 51cm CTC and 55cm center of BB to the top of the seattube. Pretty sure this is the middle size of these frames that only came in three sizes. I found pics of a smaller frame where the downtube and top tube pretty much touch going into the headtube.

Quick wipedown last night confirmed that the frame overall is really nice. DIdn't find any dings, cracks, or such. Paint is probably an 8/10. Some scrapes or small chips but not bad by my standards. The only bad scrapes are one on the inside of the fork blade and another on the down tube that should be concealed by a bottle cage when mounted. I'll touch those up to keep them sealed. There's also some areas that look cloudy, maybe from sweat not being wiped off. Not sure how or if I'll bother with those.

It shifts through all the gear ranges but things are gummy for sure. Rear isn't releasing all the time on downshifts and the brakes cables/housings are certainly gummy. I may try just new cables and flushing the current housings but usually it's best to just put on new housing too. When I bought it I was thinking it would look good with white bartape, white saddle and white cable housing. But now I'm thinking the black housing blends into the frame well and I should stick to that.

Chain is gummy but shows no wear. I'll swap in a new on anyway.

Need to figure out gearing on this too with that 50T being on there. Cassette is a 12-21 8 speed on it right now.

Anyway, this is an enigma bike for me right now. Not sure if it's a keeper, a fix 'er up and sell 'er, or maybe this years bike Coop contribution. I'll need to decide on that and then figure out what to do with it. If I keep it I've got Dura Ace from 7400 to 7800 that could go on it. That would not make any sense to do though if selling. I'm pretty sure no matter how nice I fix it up it's not going to draw enough on a local sale to come close to what I put into it. Still, gives me another little project to play with so all is good. What I don't want to do is wind up like I have with my Prologue TT. Fixed it all up with brand new Dura Ace/Ultegra 10 speed gear, wheels, etc, only to get wrecked by that dog and now unable to ride the bike. It's been listed a long time now locally for not much more than the cost of the wheels with no takers. Of course that is another option for me. Take all the parts off the Prologue and hang then on this KHS if I like the bike and can get it to fit.

Anyway, miscellaneous ramblings as I ponder this one early this morning. Now back to another mug of coffee to try and jumpstart the ol' brain and body this morning.
I will do my best to answer as many of the questions you have as I can.
A lot of engineering went in to that tube set with True Temper and our aero design team.Zinn, Hed , Lennon . These tubes were used in the Olympic Team bikes when True Temper was a sponsor. The shapes improve rigidity in both directions but of course the aero benefits are superior. The triangular shaped DT is the frames leading edge that reduces wind disturbance over the rear triangle and rear wheel probably the most critical feature of the frame.

Sun Mistral is an American rim company that made a very high quality rim at a competitive price point. As noted the semi aero shape and hard anodizing makes them a bit of an up spec IMO vs a standard alloy flat road rim. I did some of the R&D on Sun road rims prior to KHS using these as OEM spec and probably put about 15K miles on a set problem free.

The front triangle being compact lowers frontal area of the frame and again made the design much faster in the wind tunnel. The extended seat tube allows for extra room of adjustability and keep in mind the thought was a large percentage of buyers were using these bikes for TT or Triathlon so aero bars or clip ons would be added. This is why your seat position may be slightly more forward vs a stock road frame.

Based on how frayed the rear shifter cable is I would bet a new cable and some lube in the housings is all you need. Maybe new cable housing end caps as well. IE suggest removing the rear brake cable housing end caps from the braze ons as they look a bit corroded already.

Sounds like you have a lot of fun decisions to make with your new project!
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Old 01-22-22, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
Continuing to play with this a bit this morning before I get serious on it. On sorta silly question for the smart ones here. I've never had a frame with an extended seat tube like this one. To get my normal saddle height the max line on this seatpost is about 3/4" below the top of the extended seat tube. I assume this is safe?


Max level on the seatpost is below the clamping assembly.

With this saddle/seatpost combo right now I can get the right height but the setback is about 3/4" forward of my norm. May not be a bad thing on this bike. With the saddle where it is right now the saddle to handlebar reach turned out to be spot on.

Also, with the bike set back upright the tire clearance on the front is not quite as tight as it seemed at first with the Dura Ace wheels. The Dura Arc/Open Pro rear has plenty of room. What surprised me was that the Kyserium with new Velofles Corsa Race 700 x 25 tires had even less clearance on the front. The older version of Veloflex tires always seemed to come in smaller than the Conti 4000s II but of course it could be a difference in the rims.
Yes definitely 3/4" below would be very safe on for your post. Thiis is the photo where I was referencing corrosion on the brake cable housing end cap. If addressed now will prevent any issues with paint coming off etc.
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Old 01-22-22, 04:36 PM
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Looks beautiful! A frame alone popped up on ebay right after this one sold too, these things are coming out of the woodwork for whatever reason.
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Old 01-22-22, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazzyg72 View Post

Sun Mistral is an American rim company that made a very high quality rim at a competitive price point. As noted the semi aero shape and hard anodizing makes them a bit of an up spec IMO vs a standard alloy flat road rim. I did some of the R&D on Sun road rims prior to KHS using these as OEM spec and probably put about 15K miles on a set problem free.
I've started going over the wheels now. Cleaned all the gunk off the hubs, freehub, spokes, rims, etc. Yanked off the dry rotted tires and wiped down the inside of the wheels. The front weighs in at 794 with the rim tape installed and no QR. The rear is 1048 configured the same. Looks like they are about 18.5mm wide on the exterior and I'm getting 12mm inner restricted by the hooks. So narrow by today's standards. Looks like 19mm deep.

Hubs done too. They actually looked really good when I got in there but I gave them a full cleaning, new bearings and fresh grease. Just need a light true now and they should be sorted and ready to go if I decide to stick to these.
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Old 01-22-22, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee View Post
Is it because the seat tube angle is steeper than normal? Such that the longer top tube would end up putting your butt in the same place as it would be on a conventional frame?
I'm just not used to seeing a top tube so much longer than the seat tube. Of course I'm mainly dealing with straight up road bikes most of the time.
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Old 01-22-22, 06:09 PM
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I love bikes covered in grease and grime - they’re usually very clean under all the goop! This one looks to provide further proof of that. Beautiful!
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Old 01-23-22, 11:58 AM
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Well.....damn....

I had just decided this morning to leave this pretty much like it is. Dug through the parts stash and grabbed a new 8 speed chain, new 8 speed cassette, and several FD's. I brought out the brake caliper bin too to see if there was a better looking set of 105 calipers in there. Then I also found a FC-7400 crank in my preferred 172.5 length I forgot was in there. It had a lot of rub on the arms but they actually polished up nicely. That'll get a proper 53/39 setup back on this. I just have to see if the current BB is compatible with the Dura Ace or make sure I have what I need.

Edit: Appears the original takes a 113mm BB and I see where the FC-7400 takes a 112mm so I'm betting the current BB will work. I've also just found a brand new UN55 113mm cartridge BB in my stash as well as an original Dura Ace cup/bearing BB in 112mm. So this at least is sorted, I think.

But then I took out my STI shifter bin wondering if there was maybe some 8 speed Ultegra shifters in there. What I found was a really, really nice looking set of Dura Ace 7400 STI shifters. How did I forget about those??!!

Now my dilemma. I actually have two full 7400 groupsets stashed that I don't think had STI shifters. Now maybe I should do a full Dura Ace build. Problem is, if I don't like the ride of the bike I'll never get my money back out of it locally....

Does that really matter, IDK...

Anyway, I thought I had a plan. Now I just don't know. This is why I said no more projects!

I do need to find a Shimano 8 Compatibility chart though. That may force me into a decision about sticking pretty much as is vs a 7400 build. The current FD is a mess and needs to go.
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Old 01-23-22, 03:05 PM
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Ok....more musing on all of this. Spring needs to get here so I can stop being stuck in the house obsessing over bike builds, LOL!

Here's the majority of the Dura Ace stuff on hand. Ranges from rider quality to near mint but not too worried about the looks.



What's there to choose from:

FC-7400 172.5mm 53/39 at 21 ozs
FC-7402 170mm 53/39 at 22 ozs
FC-7402 170mm 53/42 at 22 ozs

FD-7400 at 2 ozs
FD-7403 at 3 ozs

RD-7400 at 7 ozs
RD-7401 at 7 ozs
RD-7402 at 7 ozs

BR-7400 at 11 ozs
BR-7402 at 12 ozs
BR-7403 at 14 ozs

BB-7400 at 9 ozs
BB UN55 at 11 ozs

Shimano 8s chain 12 ozs
Sram 8s chain 11 ozs

ST-7400 at 18 ozs

I'll pair whatever combination I pick with a new SRAM PG850 12-26 cassette.

Now for the part I'm never 100% sure of with 8 speed Dura Ace, all is compatible above, correct? If I pick the lightest of each part there's a savings of 8 ozs total. That really matters when you weigh as much as I do, LOL!
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Old 01-23-22, 09:18 PM
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Yes, all 740X is cross-compatible within the group.
In theory, the 7403 FD will shift better with the STI’s but either will work.
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Old 01-23-22, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
Ok....more musing on all of this. Spring needs to get here so I can stop being stuck in the house obsessing over bike builds, LOL!

Here's the majority of the Dura Ace stuff on hand. Ranges from rider quality to near mint but not too worried about the looks.



What's there to choose from:

FC-7400 172.5mm 53/39 at 21 ozs
FC-7402 170mm 53/39 at 22 ozs
FC-7402 170mm 53/42 at 22 ozs

FD-7400 at 2 ozs
FD-7403 at 3 ozs

RD-7400 at 7 ozs
RD-7401 at 7 ozs
RD-7402 at 7 ozs

BR-7400 at 11 ozs
BR-7402 at 12 ozs
BR-7403 at 14 ozs

BB-7400 at 9 ozs
BB UN55 at 11 ozs

Shimano 8s chain 12 ozs
Sram 8s chain 11 ozs

ST-7400 at 18 ozs

I'll pair whatever combination I pick with a new SRAM PG850 12-26 cassette.

Now for the part I'm never 100% sure of with 8 speed Dura Ace, all is compatible above, correct? If I pick the lightest of each part there's a savings of 8 ozs total. That really matters when you weigh as much as I do, LOL!
FYI if you decide you want to polish the scratches out of the crank arms I recently found a seller on Ebay that sells Dura Ace replacement stickers for cranks.
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Old 01-23-22, 09:40 PM
  #20  
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I spent way too long getting the old crank off. Someone had buggered up the treads on the drive side and I couldn't get the puller to thread in. Thought I was going to have to resort to a gear puller. Finally got the threads straightened out enough to get the puller on. Simple then to get it off.

After that struggle I didn't even attempt the BB. Once that's off I'll really tackle giving the frame a good cleaning and polish.
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Old 01-23-22, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
I spent way too long getting the old crank off. Someone had buggered up the treads on the drive side and I couldn't get the puller to thread in. Thought I was going to have to resort to a gear puller. Finally got the threads straightened out enough to get the puller on. Simple then to get it off.

After that struggle I didn't even attempt the BB. Once that's off I'll really tackle giving the frame a good cleaning and polish.
What on earth did you use to clean up the threads on it? This sounds like top secret information worth a small bag of gold?
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Old 01-24-22, 06:39 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jazzyg72 View Post
What on earth did you use to clean up the threads on it? This sounds like top secret information worth a small bag of gold?
It's a tool I got a long time ago. Has a center guide piece that goes into the axle in place of the crank bolt. Then an outer piece that sorta like a tap cleans up the threads. It's like a 50/50 chance of working according to how bad the threads are. You have to be able to get this piece to start threading like you would a crank puller. I finally got this to grab and was able to get things to work from there.
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Old 01-24-22, 06:48 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
It's a tool I got a long time ago. Has a center guide piece that goes into the axle in place of the crank bolt. Then an outer piece that sorta like a tap cleans up the threads. It's like a 50/50 chance of working according to how bad the threads are. You have to be able to get this piece to start threading like you would a crank puller. I finally got this to grab and was able to get things to work from there.
Could you post a picture of this tool?
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Old 01-24-22, 08:15 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by daverup View Post
Could you post a picture of this tool?
So, it's like this kit here:

https://vartools.com/en/repair-kit-o...d-var-p402.php

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Old 01-24-22, 08:24 AM
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Awesome bike, but what are we going to do about that stem?
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