Soody

Just jumped on this for $20

The listing says:
1982 Shogun road bike with Shimano 600 gear has been stored in the back of the barn for 30 years. 24" frame. Some surface rust. Great project for an enthusiast.

I won't have it for a month because I have to organize for it to be picked up for me. I'll post some good pics and detail the project when I get it. What is it though? Any ideas?
Is it a sport-tourer?
The drilled levers, (brooks?), and apparent 600 gear say quality. The BB cluster/lug maybe not so.
Probably Arabesque?
Shogun was like a mediocre japanese marque? Like Kabuki? Not as good as Miyata/ Bridgestone, but still ok?

pretty excited to get this because i like a tough mystery project and a bargain and the frame is my size.

Insidious C. 

Shogun offered a range of models. You probably have one of the nicer ones. The model designation is likely labeled on the top tube just ahead of the seatpost (and beneath the layer of bar tape) . Do you know if the rims are 27 inch or 700c?

Soody

I know nothing lol. I look forward to finding out when I get it !

If it's 27" and the wheels won't come up nice then I can convert it and get big tyre clearance, would be cool even. I have some centerpulls that should give the reach.

Soody

the tape kinda reminds me of wrapped exhaust headers. I reckon this guy will have a matching cool old car.

cycleheimer

I would have been all over that like white on rice. Touring/commuter set-up for $20, nice. Something us C&V guys dream about at night, only to be interupted by the alarm clock going off. Quite a project. Complete dismantling, soaking in rust remover and degreaser, sand/prime/spray parts of frame that need it, replace consumables, and swap out corroded parts with stuff from the parts bin.... just the kind of stuff C&V guys dream about at night. If the wheels are 27" , Bike Smiths (online) out of Milwaukee has 2 tires/2 tubes/2 rim liners for $27.50 + s&h. BTW, it will be begging for Bar-Cons when it's finished getting overhauled.

T-Mar

Despite it being a non-drive side photo and the tape coverage of the frame, there are some things that we can discern. The non-drive side crankarm does appear to be Shimano 600EX (a.ka. Arabesque). The inner cage of the rear deralleur is only partial at the toggle pulley and appears to be non-existent at the jockey pulley. This is consistent with the Shimano Hatch-Plate Mechanism used on 600EX. So, it does appear to have a 600EX drivetrain. The brakeset also appears to be 600EX. The headset, is not, but that was a common area of cost concessions.

The frame itself has braze-ons for the shift levers, a single water bottle and top tube cable tunnels. The rear dropout appears to be a forged model with eyelets, the gear cables are routed over the BB shell, it has sufficent clearance for fenders with 27" rims and uses calipers with exposed brake nuts. This is consistent with an early 1980s, mid-range model.

The 600EX places it pre 1984, so the seller's timeframe sounds correct. In the USA, during this era, Shogun offered two 600EX models. The 1000 was a sports bicycle with race gemomtery and 700C wheels, while the 600 was used more rerlaxed geometry and 27" wheels. Both employed a double butted CrMo main trtiangle with hi-tensiile forls. Stay material was not specified.

So, my leading candidate would be a Shogun 600. The caveat in all this, is that the OP is located in New Zealand. Often specs vary depending on the market. For instance, in 1982, the USA market 600 model used a contrasting head tube, whereas the OP's bicycle is mono-tone. This could be market dependent. However, the good news in that the US market 600 models of this era and level were typically manufactured by Miki, a very reputable Japanese manufacturer and the tubeset decals were Tange #2. If the OP can obtain the serial number from the seller, we should be able to verify the manufacturer and year.

merziac

Huh, not saying it wasn't worth $20 but that's a lot of rust, superficial or otherwise, the cost of elbow grease will be substantial on this.

Soody

Got it today.
The seatpost moved straight away.
Under the tape- Not rust! Glue residue and nice paint.
Had to look a while to even find the dynamo, and it works

Soody

Mr. 66

Barn find, looks more like a barnacle find.

I lightened up one of the pictures they are difficult to see.

Insidious C. 

Is that a Brooks sadddle than came with the bike?

T-Mar

In the one picture, the S/N looks like it may start with MOM. If so, that makes it 1980 Miki manufacture. There are a couple of different opinions how to interpret the 2nd alpha character. One method makes it late enough in the calendar year that it would be a 1981 model. So, 1980-1981.

r0ckh0und 

I have a Shogun 1000 from the same time frame, originally had the 600 Arabesque. It has the proprietary shifter bosses as I would guess this one does as well.

dddd

Some of the OEM-spec 600 Arabesque cranks were of 2-piece swaged construction, this bike has the better one though and with the cool chainring guard.

Blue label SC rims means 27" I believe(?).

Soody

it's a Kashima Professional. Seems to have copper (brass?) rivets and nose piece.
Rails are a bit corroded but seem ok. Leather seems supple in a good way.
Not sure what to do re cleaning/conditioning but id like to try ride it see if its comfy

Soody

Bars are only 35cm wide
the thick foam covered in extremely tacky cloth (hockey tape?) is pretty nice
alps stem
hoods have some kind of terrible disease

Soody

the texturing in the flutes is wierd but other than that the crank is nice. self extracting bolts even.
the rest of the group i don't like the looks of so much.
and yeah, spot on, 27". The rear hub and freewheel both feel great. Front hub is rough.

Soody

I really love this silver/blue metallic colour

Soody

What would you guys do about this internal cable routing? I'm not going to put the dynamo back on, but if i like this bike i'd probably eventually get a modern hub dynamo setup for it, so the routing might come in handy.
If I pull it out, will it be impossible to get a cable back through there? Are these just grommets or is there a tube between openings?

T-Mar

They are probably just openings in the tube. Personally, I'd just knot the ends of the existing wiring harness, where they exit the tube ports, then cut off the excess. That way, when installing a new harness in the future, you can unknot one end and attach it to the new harness, allowing you to pull the new harness through the frame. It could save a lot of frustration down the road (pun intended).

Soody

good call
done

Soody

clearance with centerpulls and 700c wheels is good
i have suntour xc pro and deore dx groups to choose between

Soody

Soody

slightly random spec but im trying to just use stuff i have

Soody

few small compatibility issues
fd is made for a slacker seat tube
the jockey wheels are way infront of the cassette with the wheel back for max tire clearance
shifters need all their throw and as r0ckh0und says its a proprietary boss they go on.

its all good though