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I said that I would never … (Peugeot content)

Old 05-06-22, 11:51 AM
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I said that I would never … (Peugeot content)

I said that I would never get anther bike with cottered cranks,
I said that I would never get another bike with 27” wheels,
Never say never, I just bought this Peugeot this morning.

And it basically fits me so I will probably be keeping it for awhile.

There is a 72 stamped onto the front rim, and also on the rear derailleur, so I’m 95% sure this s a 1972 model year.

It has Record du Monde, and looking at the bikeboompeugeot site I think this is a U08 model (maybe?)

What tires does anyone recommend for this bike?

I will also be shopping for brake pads to help slow down the steel rims.

pics to follow…
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Old 05-06-22, 11:53 AM
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First batch of pics ( my phone browser doesn’t always play well with image uploads)










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Old 05-06-22, 11:55 AM
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Second batch of pics










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Old 05-06-22, 11:58 AM
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It also came with a frame pump. The internal rubber is disintegrated so it is just for looks until I can find a replacement rubber stopper pressure thing.


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Old 05-06-22, 12:11 PM
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Yep, looks like a U-08 to me which is a fine thing. Straight up though, ditch those steel wheels. Find some used alloy 27" or even hit up Velomine for some cheap, new ones. Even with brand new Kool Stop pads and aggressive brake tuning the steel rims will still be marginal in the dry and worthless wet. To me that's the one weakness with these. That said keep an eye on the plastic parts on the derailluers, they have cracked for a lot of folks. Mine were still good on my 1972 and never gave me a problem. Sold the bike about two years ago finally but it gave me many an enjoyable day in the saddle.

Enjoy the bike.

As you can see here, an alloy rim upgrade is not going to hurt the classic look of one of these but it may keep the hurt from you.

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Old 05-06-22, 12:15 PM
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Wow - that is so original it hurts! Your dating seems pretty accurate and I think you will enjoy cleaning that up and riding it.... I like the Panaracer Paselas myself but have also used the Continentals.
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Old 05-06-22, 12:16 PM
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I either sold or donated the last of my 27” alloy wheels a year or three ago.
But, yep, I will be cautiously using these while I watch for alloy wheels.
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Old 05-06-22, 12:43 PM
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That's in great shape -- nice find!
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Old 05-06-22, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by treebound View Post
I either sold or donated the last of my 27” alloy wheels a year or three ago.
But, yep, I will be cautiously using these while I watch for alloy wheels.
I guess you really did swear off 27” bikes if you donated your old 27” wheels. Problem is that a lot of nice mid grade bikes pop up with 27s at give away prices. As long as Paselas are still around, life is good. That saddle is awesome too.
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Old 05-06-22, 02:28 PM
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Looks to be in good shape.

I second what everyone else says about swapping out the steel rims.

Also it looks like you have an AVA stem on this bike. Those are prone to failure and should be replaced.
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Old 05-06-22, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter View Post
Looks to be in good shape.

I second what everyone else says about swapping out the steel rims.

Also it looks like you have an AVA stem on this bike. Those are prone to failure and should be replaced.
I will measure that and see what I still have for quill stems. Thanks for the heads-up.
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Old 05-06-22, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by treebound View Post
I will measure that and see what I still have for quill stems. Thanks for the heads-up.
From my understanding/internets 'research' (to decide whether to ditch the stem on my PX-10) the main failure point was at the top of the cut in the vertical tube for the expansion slug. The end of the cut was often hard squared-off, which became a stress riser point. If the cut was rounded (or was made to be so) the risk of failure is greatly diminished. At least that's the info I came up with, and as the end of the cut in mine is rounded I decided to keep it (but will check regularly for signs of cracking....).
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Old 05-06-22, 04:03 PM
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The brakes have room to adjust to a smaller wheel, right? If you're replacing wheelsets and you don't like 27" rims, why not just swap to 700c?

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Old 05-06-22, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Clang View Post
The brakes have room to adjust to a smaller wheel, right? If you're replacing wheelsets and you don't like 27" rims, why not just swap to 700c?
And going from 27" to 700c will give you a wee bit more clearance for wider tires (should you want them...).
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Old 05-06-22, 04:59 PM
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Great find!

For the cranks, simply oil-can the bb bearings as needed, no need to mess with the cotters unless you'll be putting many, many thousands of miles on this bike.
Bearings can be adjusted with left crankarm in place!
I would also simply oil-can the headset bearings myself for all but lengthy, hard use.
Aerosol lithium grease using a tapered applicator straw will put lasting lubrication into the existing bearing assemblies. Sounds rough-turning until the solvents evaporate.

Removal of cotters, using even a proper press, is best facilitated with a torch, getting the crankarm end hot enough to issue a bit of smoke when the torch is pulled away.

Must save the original cotters!!!

This bike's original front derailer shows no cracking! Resist the urge to tighten further the clamping bolts or cracking is likely in the succeeding months after said tightening.

Good luck fixing that pump. Please follow up here with any success that you have!

I'm in full agreement with markk900 with regard to tires!

The original brake pads may work well, mine still do!

Treat the saddle and wait a day or two for the oils to permeate fully before riding on it.
The black coating will appear on any non-black shorts to some degree.

Oiling up the shift lever's internals and getting the inner cables to run only against polymer-lined surfaces will drastically improve shifting ease and accuracy, and the levers will no longer feel flexible.
The correct choice of cable housing (including needed ferrules) can be a challenge on vintage bikes, but is effort well spent imo.

The stem should be inspected, but should be fine for less than aggressive riding based on my experience.
The quill and clamping diameters are French!
If a longer 10cm stem is desired, an Origin8 or similar Kalloy stem will at least have a compatible quill diameter already, but will be compatible with alloy bars having 25.4 or 26.0 diameters (depending on the particular stem's labeling).
A compatible wider bar would be nice, as will the increased grip diameter of an alloy bar (24mm vs. 22mm).

You'll need to tap the crankarms out to 9/16" in order to use modern pedals.


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Old 05-06-22, 05:36 PM
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I found a set of 27” wheels that were still stashed in the garage rafters, complete with corded liners (which I will replace). I just hope I can get the freewheel off, or maybe just run it for awhile.

Ben’s in Milwaukee still had some spare new cotters in a couple of sizes/bevels/lengths in case I need to replace one or both of them.

I wondering if the pedals are already “normal” threading since the bike appears to be a 1972 model. I thought I read about pedal threading changing from the 1960’s to the 1970’s.' But the existing pedals feel and spin good so I’m in no hurry to find out right now.

Ps, I just looked closer and the corded wheels are not hook beaded, but surprise surprise I found another pair of wheels up there that are hook beaded. These other wheels have a 6-speed freewheel so maybe I can just swap it or run the friction shifters as a 6-speed initially.

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Old 05-06-22, 05:46 PM
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I am in agreement with dddd on *almost* everything: couple of tips: I have had incredible luck (or maybe its just not a big problem) with SR quill stems fitting quite well into the standard Peugeot steerer tubes of this era - TBH as a young pup I didn't even know there were differences and my own AO-8 has had at least a half dozen different stems over the years and none of them were a problem; second point is that the seat post is easily replaced (again I have had good luck with several SR Laprade posts) *if* you take out the spacer from the frame. Can't tell from the photos but if your current seat post is not stepped where the seat clamp goes on be aware that even a tiny bit of looseness can result in the seat slowly sliding down the post and the end of the post eventually carving its way through the leather of the saddle (DAMHIK) and even potentially poking you where you probably don't want to be poked. Finally, I have not found the pedals on any of the cranks I have seen from this era of Peugeot to be anything other than 9/16 standard thread, again might be just anecdotal. You won't know until you try!

edit: just saw your update: I have used 6 speed on mine for decades.....



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Old 05-06-22, 07:53 PM
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Thanks for the heads-up on the non-stepped seatpost.

I slipped a 700c front wheel and tire on the forks and it looks like it would work just fine.

I tried a 700c rear wheel and the axle has too large of a diameter to slide into the dropout slots.
I then tried the 27” wheels I have and those also have too large of an axle diameter.

So, what to do, grind the dropout slots open a little, or grind some flats into the axle ends (wouldn’t take much), or run steel on back and an alloy on front? ? ? I will have to get out the digital calipers this weekend and do some measuring.

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Old 05-06-22, 08:09 PM
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Nice looking original survivor. Enjoy it!
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Old 05-06-22, 11:41 PM
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If you're going to file open the dropout slots for a 10mm axle, be sure to only remove metal from the lower edge of the slot, elsewise you may be messing with the alignment that positions the axle horizontally across the rear fork.
Check first that a known-dimensionally-accurate wheel sits vertically, as you might want to correct any tilt before doing all of your filing on the lower edges of the dropouts.
Axles on used wheels might be bent, so be sure that's not the case with your test-fitting wheel (that you use to verify alignment before filing).
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Old 05-07-22, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by treebound View Post
Second batch of pics










...I can't tell for sure from your picture here, but if you look closely at the front derailleur clamp where the bolt for the front clamp goes into the plastic body, I think I see the crack at the usual spot where these fail. It's not a big deal to replace it with something like a Suntour front mechanism, that has a stop for a cable housing built into it. They work well as replacements.
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Old 05-07-22, 05:59 AM
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Had a look at my frame and the dropouts measure just a hair over 10mm wide. So check your measurements on both the frame and the axles.
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Old 05-07-22, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by treebound View Post
First batch of pics ( my phone browser doesn’t always play well with image uploads)

​​​​​​https://newspaperarchive.com/kenosha...-11-1982-p-39/

​​​​​​https://markcz.com/one-sweet-dream-kenosha/
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Old 05-07-22, 07:02 AM
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Thanks for the bike shop article, neat.

The dropout slots measure about 9.4-9.9mm, so I will carefully remove just a touch from the lower face of the slots.

Front derailleur no cracks that I could see.






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Old 05-07-22, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Ah Schlitz, "The beer that made Milwaukee famous"

"When you're out of Schlitz, you're out of beer."
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