White leather handlebar tape?
#51
Strong Walker
Of course handlebar tape is a consumable. Plastic, man-made materials are more consumable in general. But good quality leather whether used to make shoes, specialized gear, and yes even handlebar tape, when taken care of lasts many times that of the man-made materials. The issue is that current society is a throwaway one, and the vast majority (most probably even on this website) do not want the extra hassle of the minimal upkeep of leather tape versus the convenience of disposable plastic tape, all other things being equal. I am not finding fault in this preference, just giving my opinion as someone that has used everything from cotton wrap in the late 70s, to the 80s trend of plastic Bike Ribbon type, to the 90s use of cork, transitioning to synthetic cork to some of the current stuff available, even leather. After all these years, I still prefer plain leather wrap that I diligently clean and preserve. It just works for me but not for the vast majority of cyclists for many reasons of their own preference - I get it. Just don't tell me it's trying to look "vintage without being so".

Last edited by martl; 05-26-22 at 03:58 AM.
#52
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Things that have been widely used back in the days, i call vintage, things that weren't used but are made to look that way i'd call "retro". Personally, i don't care what you use and for what reason, and you have permission to not care about what i think is vintage, i'm just an idiot with an opinion 

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#53
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I had vinyl seats in my 1976 Honda Civic wagon. Leather would have been better.
Last edited by smd4; 05-26-22 at 08:43 AM.
#54
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I get it. But I like the Fizik so much, I'm thinking about getting their shoes.
I wrap it probably (2 or 3 times) on the initial wrap, use Lemon Pledge to clean it, and it stays clean.
It doesn't look as good on the oversize areas of carbon bars, but on the older stuff, I like it.
My only recommendation, if you get Fizik, is do not get the lettered version. The letters wear off.
It's good enough for this, appearance-wise.

I really like the stitched sleeve setup you have, but I'd have to hire it done.
Been there, failed miserably at that.
I also like the wall-reinforced repair rack.
The close proximity of the angle grinders, though....
I'd have to have them farther away. The temptation at times....
I wrap it probably (2 or 3 times) on the initial wrap, use Lemon Pledge to clean it, and it stays clean.
It doesn't look as good on the oversize areas of carbon bars, but on the older stuff, I like it.
My only recommendation, if you get Fizik, is do not get the lettered version. The letters wear off.
It's good enough for this, appearance-wise.

I really like the stitched sleeve setup you have, but I'd have to hire it done.
Been there, failed miserably at that.
I also like the wall-reinforced repair rack.
The close proximity of the angle grinders, though....
I'd have to have them farther away. The temptation at times....
Last edited by bamboobike4; 05-26-22 at 10:27 AM.
#55
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Well, since I'm already going leather (and since leather is the subject of this thread), I won't be getting the Fizik. I don't like perforated tape, either, so that's a turn-off right there.
#56
Strong Walker
You haven't spotted the metal bands aw on the floor. About the stitching, I know people who have done it, even nicely, like you I never could. These were an aftermarket part available in the early eighties. One had to buy the bars complete with leather and stem I believe
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#57
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I agree the old school sew on is too retro, but Handlebra and Brooks wrap you'd need to take a close look to see notice it's leather. IMHO the best part of leather is the no gloves, sweat absorption part without the drama of thick tape and weird textiles.
#59
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The Handlebra came today. Not packaged at all (came packed in a express mail envelope) and no extras like the Leh, but came in two rolls with a little extra for the brake lever clamps. It is nicely textured and seems more supple than the Leh, and as noted above, the edges are feathered, which should produce a very smooth and uniform wrap.
#60
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For those of you who have actually installed leather wrap, do you soak it in water first? I’ve seen at least one YouTube video where this was done.
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Well, I couldn’t bare to throw this antiquated leather bar tape in the trash and buy me some new fangled, petroleum based tape. I prefer my handlebars wrapped like my steering wheels, with real leather. So here’s my bars wrapped with Brooks leather tape. My first experience with Brooks wrap and had no issues. Let’s see if I get the years out of it like my other leather wrapped bars.



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#63
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Gorgeous. Turned out real nice.
I’m still deciding which brand to use (I have both the Handlebra and the Leh—both have features I like), and am waiting for a good rainy day to install.
I’m still deciding which brand to use (I have both the Handlebra and the Leh—both have features I like), and am waiting for a good rainy day to install.
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From a previous post:
Handlebra is the best leather tape I’ve come across. Expensive but worth it.
HandleBra : Exemplary Leather Bicycle Handlebar Wrap : "Wait ' till you put your hands on this!" TM
This bike gets ridden less than 300 miles per year but the tape has been on since 2012 and still feels great for bare-handed riding. The chamfered edges make for a very smooth wrap. Only been wet a few times but I never had issues.

Handlebra is the best leather tape I’ve come across. Expensive but worth it.
HandleBra : Exemplary Leather Bicycle Handlebar Wrap : "Wait ' till you put your hands on this!" TM
This bike gets ridden less than 300 miles per year but the tape has been on since 2012 and still feels great for bare-handed riding. The chamfered edges make for a very smooth wrap. Only been wet a few times but I never had issues.

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#68
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I've never been a fan of perforated handlebar tape; that's just my personal taste.
I'm currently using the Profile Design "Drive" handlebar tape. It's 2.5mm thick. It retails for about $28 per box (set). The tape has no logos, and it stretches well enough to make for a tight and uniform wrap. It's generally easy to work with. The tape's hexagonal surface pattern provides a good grip, and the pattern reminds me of vintage 1920s bathroom floor tile (FWIW). The tape does have an adhesive, which I prefer. The adhesive helps keep the tape in place without creep.
I wash the tape after every ride, using a bit of dish soap on a moderately wet sponge. After 2-3 months, I replace the tape due to darkening and wear at the touch points. Here's a photo of a fresh retape:
I'm currently using the Profile Design "Drive" handlebar tape. It's 2.5mm thick. It retails for about $28 per box (set). The tape has no logos, and it stretches well enough to make for a tight and uniform wrap. It's generally easy to work with. The tape's hexagonal surface pattern provides a good grip, and the pattern reminds me of vintage 1920s bathroom floor tile (FWIW). The tape does have an adhesive, which I prefer. The adhesive helps keep the tape in place without creep.
I wash the tape after every ride, using a bit of dish soap on a moderately wet sponge. After 2-3 months, I replace the tape due to darkening and wear at the touch points. Here's a photo of a fresh retape:

#70
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I've never been a fan of perforated handlebar tape; that's just my personal taste.
I'm currently using the Profile Design "Drive" handlebar tape. It's 2.5mm thick. It retails for about $28 per box (set). The tape has no logos, and it stretches well enough to make for a tight and uniform wrap. It's generally easy to work with. The tape's hexagonal surface pattern provides a good grip, and the pattern reminds me of vintage 1920s bathroom floor tile (FWIW). The tape does have an adhesive, which I prefer. The adhesive helps keep the tape in place without creep.
I wash the tape after every ride, using a bit of dish soap on a moderately wet sponge. After 2-3 months, I replace the tape due to darkening and wear at the touch points. Here's a photo of a fresh retape:

I'm currently using the Profile Design "Drive" handlebar tape. It's 2.5mm thick. It retails for about $28 per box (set). The tape has no logos, and it stretches well enough to make for a tight and uniform wrap. It's generally easy to work with. The tape's hexagonal surface pattern provides a good grip, and the pattern reminds me of vintage 1920s bathroom floor tile (FWIW). The tape does have an adhesive, which I prefer. The adhesive helps keep the tape in place without creep.
I wash the tape after every ride, using a bit of dish soap on a moderately wet sponge. After 2-3 months, I replace the tape due to darkening and wear at the touch points. Here's a photo of a fresh retape:

Last edited by smd4; 06-10-22 at 07:54 AM.
#72
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I am still angry that Fizik dropped the Performance bar tape. Easily the best I have ever used.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
#73
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I'm just annoyed that it's harder than it used to be to find the 3 mm stuff.
#75
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Another nod for the Fizik synthetic stuff --- not leather, but i dont have to worry about getting caught in the rain --- the wrap on the DeRosa has some tiny embossed in logos though -- and it is starting to yellow but its 5 years old.
Either wipes clean with some 409
l
Either wipes clean with some 409
l

