Double checking - this frame is a total bust and to be trashed, right?
05-29-22, 07:03 AM
#2
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What is it? If it’s a lowend 4130 frame probably. If it’s a nicer Columbus or Tange frame it might b worth fixing it
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05-29-22, 08:13 AM
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*20 Singletrack. Nice little bike, but not special...mid 90s, I guess with the wishbone RT.
If you want to try your hand at metal bonding, it wouldn't be a bad little knockaround bike.
If you want to try your hand at metal bonding, it wouldn't be a bad little knockaround bike.
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05-29-22, 08:53 AM
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05-29-22, 09:12 AM
#6
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc;[url=tel:22523729
22523729[/url]]*20 Singletrack.
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll;[url=tel:22523755
22523755[/url]]
05-29-22, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by hihik
Mountain track actually, not sure what’s the difference among it and Single and Antelopes from that era..
Did it come as a bike, or just the frame?
There are a few 820s that have lingered for sale near me at $50-100 to give you a frame of reference.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, Cannondale M500, etc...Need to do an N -1...
05-29-22, 10:05 AM
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When people ask met this question, without looking at the frame my standard answer is "I can probably fix just about anything, given enough time and money. If you don't like the time, give me more money."
Chainstay could be replaced. Or one could cut out the cancerous area and braze a bit of donor tubing hacked down to size and shape. The question you've gotta ask yourself, for the price of the repair and paint, couldn't you find another one in better shape for less money than the repair?
Chainstay could be replaced. Or one could cut out the cancerous area and braze a bit of donor tubing hacked down to size and shape. The question you've gotta ask yourself, for the price of the repair and paint, couldn't you find another one in better shape for less money than the repair?
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05-29-22, 10:18 AM
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I see a shop stool project
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05-29-22, 11:49 AM
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When I was a kid, my friends’ older brothers were always doing DIY body work on their rusted out muscle cars. Lots of fiberglass kit repair. It might be worth a try to salvage this frame: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Fib...-Pint/17056867
05-29-22, 12:08 PM
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Looking at the picture more closely, I see that rust might be creeping under the paint in both directions...and it being a chainstay, I’d say if you received as a bike harvest the parts. If just the frame, make it into a cool lawn art project piece.
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05-29-22, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
looking at the picture more closely, i see that rust might be creeping under the paint in both directions...and it being a chainstay, i’d say if you received as a bike harvest the parts. If just the frame, make it into a cool lawn art project piece.
05-29-22, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hihik
Mountain track actually, not sure what’s the difference among it and Single and Antelopes from that era…
84-87 850 and 830 are good classic mountain bikes, the first from Trek.
800 series Antelopes from 1987 to 1993. They’re pretty decent, mostly chromoly. Pretty standard for the era.
The “track” bikes are all from the same early to late 90s era. This is around when market segmentation really went off the rails and it seems like there’s a bike for every fifty buck price increment. The 900 series Single Track frames ‘89-99 are all branded butted oversized chromoly tubing while the ‘94+ 800 Mountain Track series were not very nice hi ten. There’s also Multi Track hybrids and Double Track tandems and some kid bike and trailer bike whose names I’m forgetting. The 900 series are the nice ones and have nice components but by this time they were not top end. The top end bikes were bonded aluminum (or carbon). It’s the middle of this run where everything grows suspension forks. At the end it’s nearly all replaced with welded aluminum or in mold carbon frames
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 05-29-22 at 01:13 PM.
05-29-22, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
If you are in a busy bike market you usually can’t throw a rock without hitting a Trek 820. Higher middle digit is better spec and there are some really nice ones.
84-87 850 and 830 are good classic mountain bikes, the first from Trek.
800 series Antelopes from 1987 to 1993. They’re pretty decent, mostly chromoly. Pretty standard for the era.
The “track” bikes are all from the same early to late 90s era. This is around when market segmentation really went off the rails and it seems like there’s a bike for every fifty buck price increment. The 900 series Single Track frames ‘89-99 are all branded butted oversized chromoly tubing while the ‘94+ 800 Mountain Track series were not very nice hi ten. There’s also Multi Track hybrids and Double Track tandems and some kid bike and trailer bike whose names I’m forgetting. The 900 series are the nice ones and have nice components but by this time they were not top end. The top end bikes were bonded aluminum (or carbon). It’s the middle of this run where everything grows suspension forks. At the end it’s nearly all replaced with welded aluminum or in mold carbon frames
84-87 850 and 830 are good classic mountain bikes, the first from Trek.
800 series Antelopes from 1987 to 1993. They’re pretty decent, mostly chromoly. Pretty standard for the era.
The “track” bikes are all from the same early to late 90s era. This is around when market segmentation really went off the rails and it seems like there’s a bike for every fifty buck price increment. The 900 series Single Track frames ‘89-99 are all branded butted oversized chromoly tubing while the ‘94+ 800 Mountain Track series were not very nice hi ten. There’s also Multi Track hybrids and Double Track tandems and some kid bike and trailer bike whose names I’m forgetting. The 900 series are the nice ones and have nice components but by this time they were not top end. The top end bikes were bonded aluminum (or carbon). It’s the middle of this run where everything grows suspension forks. At the end it’s nearly all replaced with welded aluminum or in mold carbon frames
As far as the OPs salvage project, like you said, the 820s are everywhere.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...5-ce17c3902df7
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...5-ce17c3902df7 (an older one)
And this package w/o wheels for $100. Has sat for 12 weeks.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, Cannondale M500, etc...Need to do an N -1...
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05-29-22, 02:17 PM
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Looks like it could have been rusting from inside out.....which means it could be all rotten in other parts, inside the frame......
Try tapping the tubes with a screwdriver all over to check. If you get a dull thunk in some areas, then it means there's a much bigger rust problem than you can see.....
Try tapping the tubes with a screwdriver all over to check. If you get a dull thunk in some areas, then it means there's a much bigger rust problem than you can see.....
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05-29-22, 02:32 PM
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Thanks everyone! Helpful _and_ educational as usual. This is a complete bike I found on the street - it certainly doesn’t have a sentimental value to me and I already have more bikes than I really need 
I guess I just enjoy fiddling with bikes especially if they are FREE and in roughly shape. It’s just when it’s at the point of “no longer safe to ride” is when it should be abandoned. But I’m still negotiating with myself, the JDWeld product looks interesting 
I guess I just enjoy fiddling with bikes especially if they are FREE and in roughly shape. It’s just when it’s at the point of “no longer safe to ride” is when it should be abandoned. But I’m still negotiating with myself, the JDWeld product looks interesting
Last edited by hihik; 05-29-22 at 02:38 PM.
05-29-22, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hihik
Thanks everyone! Helpful _and_ educational as usual. This is a complete bike I found on the street - it certainly doesn’t have a sentimental value to me and I already have more bikes than I really need I guess I just enjoy fiddling with bikes especially if they are FREE and in roughly shape. It’s just when it’s at the point of “no longer safe to ride” is when it should be abandoned. But I’m still negotiating with myself, the JDWeld product looks interesting
I guess I just enjoy fiddling with bikes especially if they are FREE and in roughly shape. It’s just when it’s at the point of “no longer safe to ride” is when it should be abandoned. But I’m still negotiating with myself, the JDWeld product looks interesting I would harvest the parts, put them in a box, wait for a cool frame to be tossed and make some person a cool bike!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, Cannondale M500, etc...Need to do an N -1...
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, Cannondale M500, etc...Need to do an N -1...
05-29-22, 04:54 PM
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Oh and the one remaining steel road bike from the 90s “track” era is 420 or 470 Fast Track
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05-29-22, 09:56 PM
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Huh, it almost looks like water got in there and froze and burst the tube like a plumbing pipe in a poorly insulated house. Is it bulged out in that area, or is that just the effect of the camera lens?
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05-30-22, 02:39 PM
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I would salvage the parts and send the frame to the recycler. I would'nt sell it, the frame appears to be a liability.
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05-30-22, 03:28 PM
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I wouldn't use JBWeld there. The quick and dirty fix would be cleaning the area with a wire wheel and if the rust isn't too extended brazing a piece of sheet metal molded to shape IMO.
05-30-22, 03:32 PM
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A two-part, flowable structural resin could be used to fill the chainstay, at which point the stresses on the metal would be reduced quite a bit and no entry of water would be possible.
Some epoxies flow readily at mildly elevated temperatures, but which also accelerates the rate of cure. So first rule out any fast-curing epoxies.
Some electrical "potting compounds" flow well, and have published mechanical properties, so could perhaps add a lot of stiffness and strength to the inside of that chainstay.
Since some of these two-part "glues" are expensive, one might best fill the tail end of the chain stay to a precise level with a lesser filler material first, then add a structural filler (such as short lengths of coat-hanger wire or all-thread) as (or after) the structural liquid is introduced into the warmed chain stay. You might only have to fill a few inches of the chain stay's length with the structural liquid in order to fully reinforce the ruptured area, as the filler will displace the liquid further along up toward the bottom bracket by perhaps another couple of inches.
J B Weld conveniently cures very slowly, and could perhaps be used to fill a ~50cc syringe with a hose attached, then might flow readily into the chain stay if warmed.
The J B Weld product certainy has more than adequate mechanical properties for this repair.
Some epoxies flow readily at mildly elevated temperatures, but which also accelerates the rate of cure. So first rule out any fast-curing epoxies.
Some electrical "potting compounds" flow well, and have published mechanical properties, so could perhaps add a lot of stiffness and strength to the inside of that chainstay.
Since some of these two-part "glues" are expensive, one might best fill the tail end of the chain stay to a precise level with a lesser filler material first, then add a structural filler (such as short lengths of coat-hanger wire or all-thread) as (or after) the structural liquid is introduced into the warmed chain stay. You might only have to fill a few inches of the chain stay's length with the structural liquid in order to fully reinforce the ruptured area, as the filler will displace the liquid further along up toward the bottom bracket by perhaps another couple of inches.
J B Weld conveniently cures very slowly, and could perhaps be used to fill a ~50cc syringe with a hose attached, then might flow readily into the chain stay if warmed.
The J B Weld product certainy has more than adequate mechanical properties for this repair.
05-30-22, 05:02 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Looking at the picture more closely, I see that rust might be creeping under the paint in both directions...and it being a chainstay, I’d say if you received as a bike harvest the parts. If just the frame, make it into a cool lawn art project piece.
Plus, if that tube has rusted through you have to ask yourself, what is the internal condition of the others?
