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Broken Freewheel removal tool......

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Broken Freewheel removal tool......

Old 06-28-22, 06:28 PM
  #26  
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I, too, have broken a freewheel tool or two. Snapped in half, exactly like the OP's. I have also managed to round off the tabs on a two tab freewheel tool and had several bikes come my way with the two tap/slot ruined due to slippage. These days, I employ extreme caution when removing two tab freewheels and, if possible, try to avoid having anything to do with them. Four tap, OK. Splined, just great unless dealing with the kind that won't fit over the axle nut.

I have also gone the pipe wrench route, disassembling the freewheel and then fitting my 18" pipe wrench onto the bare freewheel hub. I used to be worried about the pipe wrench jaws damaging the hub but, so far, no worries.
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Old 06-29-22, 12:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Excellent, they need to be held accountable, if for no other reason than that, very telling and if they snap too and send you a new one then you will have a spare.

For the next time it breaks.
New freewheel tool as in its way.
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Old 06-30-22, 06:07 AM
  #28  
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I did the same thing a while back. I found 1" Milwaukie socket with a a square base that will clamp securely in my bench vice. Works good...

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...ets/45-34-9108

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Old 06-30-22, 12:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
I always use a box wrench so it encircles the tool with force, skewered on and with a cheater, any struggle can end poorly as it did here.
All Park freewheel tools are designed to fit a 1" box end wrench. Park actually makes a 1" wrench especially for that purpose, the FRW-1. It's better than a standard 1" box-end wrench in that it has a set-screw to secure the remover tool in the handle and can accept a cheater pipe when more leverage is needed.


https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...r-wrench-frw-1
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Old 06-30-22, 01:17 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
All Park freewheel tools are designed to fit a 1" box end wrench. Park actually makes a 1" wrench especially for that purpose, the FRW-1. It's better than a standard 1" box-end wrench in that it has a set-screw to secure the remover tool in the handle and can accept a cheater pipe when more leverage is needed.


https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...r-wrench-frw-1
I bought this right after I broke the FR-1.3 in the first post. I had another freewheel to take off last weekend. I was very pleased with the FRW-1. As a side note. When Park was determining if they would replace the FR-1.3 they made it very clear that "Using a vice can destroy the freewheel tool" and that if I used a vice and the tool failed it was NOT a manufacturing defect.
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Old 06-30-22, 01:39 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
I bought this right after I broke the FR-1.3 in the first post. I had another freewheel to take off last weekend. I was very pleased with the FRW-1. As a side note. When Park was determining if they would replace the FR-1.3 they made it very clear that "Using a vice can destroy the freewheel tool" and that if I used a vice and the tool failed it was NOT a manufacturing defect.
That logic would only apply if the vise was way too tight, very hard to reasonably say, more BS from a company that full well knows better and still chooses to need an "out" when things go south.
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Old 06-30-22, 01:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
All Park freewheel tools are designed to fit a 1" box end wrench. Park actually makes a 1" wrench especially for that purpose, the FRW-1. It's better than a standard 1" box-end wrench in that it has a set-screw to secure the remover tool in the handle and can accept a cheater pipe when more leverage is needed.


https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...r-wrench-frw-1
I get it and if it works for someone then fine.

Based on the vise story Mike got, I doubt they would replace either tool if you told them you used a cheater pipe.

Parks prices are in Snap-on territory and I already have 2 or 3 of those plus some very stout cheaper versions that would never break anyway.

As most of us know, Snap-on will replace almost any regular handtool with no questions asked, they would laugh you out of the truck if you told them you broke one of their tools working on a bicycle.

And then they would replace it anyway.

And yes, many of us know they are very expensive, but that's only until you start saving time and making money with them.

If I thought any of my real tools were as potentially weak as some Parks seem to be, they would never make to into the work or dragstrip tool box.
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Old 07-02-22, 10:01 AM
  #33  
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Looks like using the Milwaukee 1” socket (with flats) secured in a vise is the way to go! (At least when making a claim to ParkTool ). I’ve been mostly successful with the freewheel tool in the vise and have never damaged a tool. I have had to resort to the “disassemble freewheel then use a pipe wrench” method but only a couple of times. Applying anti-sieze compound prior to reassembly is a great idea but of no help on a freewheel that’s never before been removed.
RE: the high-end, professional mechanic tools (Snap-On, Matco, etc.) I see the trucks frequently making the rounds to local independent repair shops as well as many automotive, truck and farm equipment dealerships and repair facilities. It seems to me that there would be little need for that if the tools were of such high quality . Are the mobile units replacing damaged tools or are mechanics buying specialty tools as the need arises?
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Old 07-02-22, 11:07 AM
  #34  
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sovende,
Yes to both questions. I have Snap-On and Mac and they both have specialty tools and they have lifetime replacement. The specialty tools are for a lot of different applications, like replacing the marzelvanes in a turbo encabulator. Smiles, MH

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Old 07-02-22, 11:14 AM
  #35  
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I expect the problem is actually the use of the "pipe wrench". If it is the traditional style, it was designed with slightly inclined jaws and a loose clamp such that it can grip a round pipe. The harder you turn it, the more clamping force is on the pipe until the teeth dig in and the pipe turns. What likely happened is that the sides of the pipe wrench did not (and could not) hold the tool squarely, and the harder you pushed on the wrench, the more crushing force was applied to the tool, eventually crushing it.

FWIW, for stubborn freewheels, I clamp the tool in a vice and use the wheel as the lever arm to torque the freewheel off.

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Old 07-02-22, 12:05 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk View Post
sovende,
Yes to both questions. I have Snap-On and Mac and they both have specialty tools and the have lifetime replacement. The specialty tools are for a lot of different applications, like replacing the marzelviens in a turbo encabulator. Smiles, MH
With turbo encabulators costing over $750 million, it’s unlikely that I’ll ever have one to work on . If anyone that did have one came to me and asked if I’d replace the marzelvanes for them, I’d just have to say “bring it to the dealership”! Prolly wouldn’t buy the Snap-On tool for what would be a one time use. If O’Reillys had a loaner tho, I might take a crack at it.
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Old 07-02-22, 12:51 PM
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sovende,
I couldn't resist posting the joke for you. I hope you got a chuckle out of the presentation. Smiles, MH
BTW, I use a black steel socket and an impact wrench to remove freewheels. About a 20 second procedure to remove them, and very little chance of breaking anything.

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Old 07-02-22, 08:58 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk View Post
sovende,
I couldn't resist posting the joke for you. I hope you got a chuckle out of the presentation. Smiles, MH
BTW, I use a black steel socket and an impact wrench to remove freewheels. About a 20 second procedure to remove them, and very little chance of breaking anything.
Had to Google “turbo encabulator” and found a YouTube video. I was brought nearly to tears laughing as the video went on 🤣. Showed it to my wife and she thought it was hilarious too! Can’t imagine how the “engineer” made it through his presentation without cracking himself up 😜. Thanks for sharing 👍.
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Old 07-02-22, 09:45 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sovende View Post
Looks like using the Milwaukee 1” socket (with flats) secured in a vise is the way to go! (At least when making a claim to ParkTool ). I’ve been mostly successful with the freewheel tool in the vise and have never damaged a tool. I have had to resort to the “disassemble freewheel then use a pipe wrench” method but only a couple of times. Applying anti-sieze compound prior to reassembly is a great idea but of no help on a freewheel that’s never before been removed.
RE: the high-end, professional mechanic tools (Snap-On, Matco, etc.) I see the trucks frequently making the rounds to local independent repair shops as well as many automotive, truck and farm equipment dealerships and repair facilities. It seems to me that there would be little need for that if the tools were of such high quality . Are the mobile units replacing damaged tools or are mechanics buying specialty tools as the need arises?
All of the above, each truck is a franchisee, they sell a lot of tools, come when called for replacements and special requests. They also usually have a scheduled day that they come to take care of regular non-urgent business. They will also usually replace a worn or damaged tool if you want and I can tell you from experience that when you break one, its not normal and probably involved abusive, excessive force, they almost always replace it anyway.

Mech/techs are an odd lot, I knew several that had well over $100K in tools, I probably have at least $20-$30K but I almost never carried a balance, some guys have a $1K a month tool payment and more.
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Old 07-02-22, 10:05 PM
  #40  
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merziac, as we have discussed before the three boxes here likely contain enough for the War Department to spend freely after my demise. I just hope she doesn't wheel them out to the curb with a $10 price on each one.
sovende, The narrator was the innovator who began using hidden ear pieces to recite the program. He would record the printed text before and then use it to do the actual presentation. The ruse started in the 40's with some engineer folks creating a technical sounding document with no actual meaning. There was a follow up with a mechanic "Sparky" with a torch appearing to work on a Viper in the background while the presentation was going on. Sparky set the Viper aflame and a volunteer FD put the fire out. That one was very funny, but somehow has been lost in the series. I'm glad your wife got to see the humor in what we bike mechanics do for fun. Smiles, MH

Last edited by Mad Honk; 07-03-22 at 09:01 AM.
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