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Broken Freewheel removal tool......

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Broken Freewheel removal tool......

Old 06-25-22, 12:45 PM
  #1  
SwimmerMike 
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Broken Freewheel removal tool......

When removing freewheels, my "go to" has been a 24" crescent wrench. I can usually get enough torque to get any freewheel off with it. This freewheel was really stuck. I did what I normally do, PB blaster, cheater bar, etc. I felt the freewheel give and thought I had it. No, I didn't.......

I did finally get it off (dismantled the freewheel and used a big pipe wrench). My only thought is that the wrench wasn't tight enough on the flats of the removal tool.
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Old 06-25-22, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
When removing freewheels, my "go to" has been a 24" crescent wrench. I can usually get enough torque to get any freewheel off with it. This freewheel was really stuck. I did what I normally do, PB blaster, cheater bar, etc. I felt the freewheel give and thought I had it. No, I didn't.......

I did finally get it off (dismantled the freewheel and used a big pipe wrench). My only thought is that the wrench wasn't tight enough on the flats of the removal tool.
Thats impressive. I’ve never seen one of those shatter/break...
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Old 06-25-22, 01:19 PM
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Mike,
A testament to your awesome strength! Glad the pipe wrench did it. Smiles, MH
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Old 06-25-22, 02:03 PM
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See folks, if you bike and swim, you'll be strong enough to be like Mike.

I always chuck my freewheel tool in a vise and use a quick release to keep it from popping off the freewheel, especially the two pronged SunTour types. Grab the wheel and twist to break it loose, but stop right after it's loose, remove the QR, and unthread the rest.
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Old 06-25-22, 02:39 PM
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Park "quality", never been a fan, have plenty, most work ok, my Spin Dr crank puller works better and Park BB wrenches suck IMO, especially when you need them not to the most and compared to 45 year old Sugino's that have never failed.

Just sayin.
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Old 06-25-22, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
When removing freewheels, my "go to" has been a 24" crescent wrench. I can usually get enough torque to get any freewheel off with it. This freewheel was really stuck. I did what I normally do, PB blaster, cheater bar, etc. I felt the freewheel give and thought I had it. No, I didn't.......

I did finally get it off (dismantled the freewheel and used a big pipe wrench). My only thought is that the wrench wasn't tight enough on the flats of the removal tool.
I always use a box wrench so it encircles the tool with force, skewered on and with a cheater, any struggle can end poorly as it did here.
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Old 06-25-22, 03:06 PM
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-----


and just how many stone is the pedaler of this gear block?

remember to always apply anti-seize when mounting

-----

Last edited by juvela; 06-25-22 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 06-25-22, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----


and just how many stone is the pedaler of this gear block?

remember to always apply anti-seize when mounting

-----
Well if you are Hondo, you probably have been stoned a lot! Keystoned that is. Smiles, MH
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Old 06-25-22, 03:29 PM
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LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY


This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have ‎other rights which vary from state to state.‎
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Old 06-25-22, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
I always use a box wrench so it encircles the tool with force, skewered on and with a cheater, any struggle can end poorly as it did here.
I had the right size box wrench, but had chose the crescent since it has always worked for me. I looked at the box wrench after and since it was 12 point, plus the open end on the other side, I decided to buy the Park wrench to remove freewheels. Very heavy duty and 6 point, and it also has a set screw to make sure it doesn't move laterally on the freewheel removal tool. I used it today to remove the freewheel (which was pretty stuck) from the wheels (1959 No Record hubs) that I bought the Trek 614 for. (Yes, I bought a bike for a set of wheels that I wanted, but didn't need).
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Old 06-25-22, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post

LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY


This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have ‎other rights which vary from state to state.‎
My guess is that it way more of a hassle that ordering a new one from Amazon for under $10. (Which I did)
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Old 06-25-22, 05:58 PM
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Note to self: don't arm wrestle with SwimmerMike.
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Old 06-25-22, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
My only thought is that the wrench wasn't tight enough on the flats.
Shoulda used yer teeth!
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Old 06-25-22, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
Shoulda used yer teeth!

-----



Righty-O, that's what orthodontists are for!


-----
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Old 06-25-22, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
My guess is that it way more of a hassle that ordering a new one from Amazon for under $10. (Which I did)
I would still give them a piece of my mind.

Good tools used to be lifetime warranty because they lasted a lifetime, now its a fall back, "we'll replace it for free" because they know it will break and the cost is built in so they can afford it.

Anybody that has been a flat rate mechanic knows that is crap, if it breaks, the job doesn't get done, it's not going to get replaced within the timeframe the job is supposed to be done.

I did it for twenty years, backstops and workarounds saved a lot tool failures but they also ate up valuable time when a reliable tool would have made short work of it, and more money.

Many shops now days will charge you back for delays, other problems that come up after you worked on it and any repairs you did that were not perfect whether it was your fault or not.

Tools by nature have a brutal job, they should be up to the task, especially at premium prices.
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Old 06-26-22, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
I always chuck my freewheel tool in a vise and use a quick release to keep it from popping off the freewheel, especially the two pronged SunTour types. Grab the wheel and twist to break it loose, but stop right after it's loose, remove the QR, and unthread the rest.
….as do I. Clamp in all in the vice and, like a city bus driver, turn left. However, I had one wheel off an old Raleigh that fought back valiantly. Penetrating oil, heat gun, lots of torque, give up. More oil down the back of the FW and park it next to the wood stove (this was a winter project). Repeat and fail and repeat. It took over a month to “crack it loose” but it did yield. Patience often beats brute force and saves the tools.

Clear justification for owning multiple bicycles.
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Old 06-26-22, 06:54 AM
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My bad experiences with park tools has been the headset wrench/BB open eared wrench (which shattered), the cable cutters (which I found out you must constantly re-tighten the pivot bolt), and oddly the one piece crank extractors which are not as good as going two piece.

Speaking of which, I need to find one of those darn offset brake centering wrenches one of these days.

Did VAR make freewheel tools?

And Sugino tools are awesome. Though I haven't figured out the use of one I have.
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Old 06-26-22, 07:00 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
...Did VAR make freewheel tools...?
Yes. I have a few. Very beefy. No pictures, however.
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Old 06-26-22, 07:57 AM
  #19  
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Yea, even good quality tools can break under load. I had one of my favorite 1/2” drive sockets do that when I used with a breaker bar, I was shocked as I have used this set for years. I am one of the guys who uses a vise and workbench method and not had a failure…..YET! I used to use a big wrench and my wife to hold the wheel until I saw a guy at the bike shop use the vise method . I had a wheel that I bought and wanted to remove the FW with a two prong SunTour tool but I was afraid to put too much pressure on the wheel so I took it in with the tool and Mark put the tool in the bench vise , and like driving an old VW bus , just steered the FW into submission.
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Old 06-26-22, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by prowler View Post
….as do i. Clamp in all in the vice and, like a city bus driver, turn left. However, i had one wheel off an old raleigh that fought back valiantly. Penetrating oil, heat gun, lots of torque, give up. More oil down the back of the fw and park it next to the wood stove (this was a winter project). Repeat and fail and repeat. It took over a month to “crack it loose” but it did yield. Patience often beats brute force and saves the tools.

Clear justification for owning multiple bicycles.
exactly!!
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Old 06-26-22, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
I had the right size box wrench, but had chose the crescent since it has always worked for me. I looked at the box wrench after and since it was 12 point, plus the open end on the other side, I decided to buy the Park wrench to remove freewheels. Very heavy duty and 6 point, and it also has a set screw to make sure it doesn't move laterally on the freewheel removal tool. I used it today to remove the freewheel (which was pretty stuck) from the wheels (1959 No Record hubs) that I bought the Trek 614 for. (Yes, I bought a bike for a set of wheels that I wanted, but didn't need).
Yeah, I get it but a 12 point in a size like that is brutally stout, not giving much if anything up to a 6 point unless your working on a D14 Cat or the like.

Those kind of sizes can be bought in the really cheap ones and still be nearly unbreakable.

Sounds like you're set from here on.
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Old 06-26-22, 12:58 PM
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6 point Impact driver sockets don't break.

I have had a Phil tool twist on me, gave the illusion of working... nooo,
usually if it is too tough with that tool I take the axle apart a bit and use the very solid Atom tool.
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Old 06-26-22, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
6 point Impact driver sockets don't break.

I have had a Phil tool twist on me, gave the illusion of working... nooo,
usually if it is too tough with that tool I take the axle apart a bit and use the very solid Atom tool.

I used that method via suggestion from MadHonk. It obviously carries a bit of risk but removed a completely fused Dura Ace freewheel from hub.
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Old 06-26-22, 07:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
I would still give them a piece of my mind.

Good tools used to be lifetime warranty because they lasted a lifetime, now its a fall back, "we'll replace it for free" because they know it will break and the cost is built in so they can afford it.

Anybody that has been a flat rate mechanic knows that is crap, if it breaks, the job doesn't get done, it's not going to get replaced within the timeframe the job is supposed to be done.

I did it for twenty years, backstops and workarounds saved a lot tool failures but they also ate up valuable time when a reliable tool would have made short work of it, and more money.

Many shops now days will charge you back for delays, other problems that come up after you worked on it and any repairs you did that were not perfect whether it was your fault or not.

Tools by nature have a brutal job, they should be up to the task, especially at premium prices.
I decided that seeing how Park responded would be good. Submitted a claim. It was very easy.
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Old 06-26-22, 07:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SwimmerMike View Post
I decided that seeing how Park responded would be good. Submitted a claim. It was very easy.
Excellent, they need to be held accountable, if for no other reason than that, very telling and if they snap too and send you a new one then you will have a spare.

For the next time it breaks.
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