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Ishiwata Trek Fat Tire Project

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Ishiwata Trek Fat Tire Project

Old 07-01-22, 03:01 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
More progress!

Drilled the front and rear brake bridges to allow recessed nutted brakes. Usual process, no problem with the right tools.

I have had sets of the TRP mid reach brakes in black, but never a pair in silver until today. dang. these are really elegant, nicely finished brakes. big fan!

So, I think that brake cable bridge is the main limit in tire size, except for between the chainstays. If I would use fenders on it I would not go any bigger, unless Iím feeling lucky.
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Old 07-01-22, 03:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
More progress!

Drilled the front and rear brake bridges to allow recessed nutted brakes. Usual process, no problem with the right tools.

I have had sets of the TRP mid reach brakes in black, but never a pair in silver until today. dang. these are really elegant, nicely finished brakes. big fan!

Another one: how did you drill out the rear brake stay? It must have been from the outer side, not the seat tube side. Then the OD of the recessed nut has to match the ID of the new hole?
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Old 07-01-22, 05:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
So, I think that brake cable bridge is the main limit in tire size, except for between the chainstays. If I would use fenders on it I would not go any bigger, unless Iím feeling lucky.
It's a close call, but the chainstays are probably the limiter on this frame, but there is plenty of room with the 33's now. could probably go to 38, but i would not, this is going to be the happy size for this bike and my uses.

Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
Another one: how did you drill out the rear brake stay? It must have been from the outer side, not the seat tube side. Then the OD of the recessed nut has to match the ID of the new hole?
Drilled from the seat tube side. I used a right angle or "close quarters" drill and I cut the drill bit down to be very short, about an inch sticking out of the drill chuck. Just enough clearance to get the job done.
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Old 07-01-22, 10:49 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
Isnít it an even cheaper solution to cut a pair of brake cable outer housings (or just one if you only really need to guide the FD?), hold it under the BB shell, thread in the FD or RD cable, and attach the cable and adjust it? Youíll still need a bottom cable housing stop at the end of the DS chainstay. But if you kept scraps of outer brake cable and bought the lined stuff, like Jagwire, that part of the project should be essentially free
Maybe, never tried that myself to know if cable tension alone would keep the housing(s) in place on that BB shell over all shifting and conditions.
Anybody care to give firsthand reports if you've done just that?
I would be a little more confident that you could get away with the "unsecured" housing for the FD cable IF you used a FD with built-in housing stop, such as the old Sun Tour the OP has shown. At least that's going to anchor the housing a little bit on one end.
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Old 07-01-22, 11:54 AM
  #30  
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I'm still confused whether there's even an issue. As said in post # 7, the original FD is bottom-pull, using the existing DT-mounted housing stop (it's actually a stop for the FD and a guide for the RD), and a housing stop on the FD itself. Why will that not work? You seem to conflate bottom-pull with under-BB routing, and the two have nothing to do with one another. The entry- and mid-level Treks up to about '82 had bottom-pull above-the-BB cabling, as did many others of that period.
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Old 07-01-22, 01:41 PM
  #31  
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drill baby drill!

2nd bottle cage successfully installed! A little unnerving to take a centering punch and drill to a bike frame, but progress and all.





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Old 07-01-22, 01:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
I'm still confused whether there's even an issue. As said in post # 7, the original FD is bottom-pull, using the existing DT-mounted housing stop (it's actually a stop for the FD and a guide for the RD), and a housing stop on the FD itself. Why will that not work? You seem to conflate bottom-pull with under-BB routing, and the two have nothing to do with one another. The entry- and mid-level Treks up to about '82 had bottom-pull above-the-BB cabling, as did many others of that period.
Sorry, perhaps I was not clear - See the image above of the FD i intend to use, a bottom pull unit with no cable stop. The old FD was trashed.
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Old 07-08-22, 03:56 PM
  #33  
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The shifty bits are sorted!

>Big barrel DT shifters
>XTR RD loaded with upsized Hope jockey wheels
>Suntour FD

This brings the tally of holes drilled in the frame up to 6

1+2) ST bottle cage mounts
3) Fork crown
4) Rear brake bridge
5) Drilled and tapped hole for under BB cable guide
6) Drain hole for BB

Next up: Brake levers and cable routing once parts arrive.

Getting close to the road!

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Old 07-09-22, 02:51 PM
  #34  
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And this one is done. Came out pretty well I would have to say. Just under 20# complete.

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