Does this Woodrup look bent?
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12-16-22, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
RJ did it on YouTube with an impact wrench.
How do you set Problem is properly securing the frame or fork I've found success holding fork crowns down in my vise with a pair of thick, 1/2" hard rubber blocks installed on either side. For frames, it's always a vise to the bottom bracket. You aren't necessarily going to get that prep when working with a auto repair shop, unless you're on very good terms with the mechanics and have worked together on projects before.
I have an air hammer, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how you'd pull a stuck post or stem with it, unless you're smashing it down into the frame. Slide hammer attachment or something like that?
How do you set Problem is properly securing the frame or fork I've found success holding fork crowns down in my vise with a pair of thick, 1/2" hard rubber blocks installed on either side. For frames, it's always a vise to the bottom bracket. You aren't necessarily going to get that prep when working with a auto repair shop, unless you're on very good terms with the mechanics and have worked together on projects before.
I have an air hammer, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how you'd pull a stuck post or stem with it, unless you're smashing it down into the frame. Slide hammer attachment or something like that?
About clamping the frame: you missed my later edit. The problem with clamping the frame in a vise or a heavy stand before using the air hammer is that the vise or stand will absorb too much of the impact, lessening the likelihood that the stem/seatpost will move. One person should hold the frame/fork (loosely, with heavy gloves or such, as far from the point of impact as possible) while the other uses the air hammer under the stem/seatpost. To hammer out a stem, I held the frame by the seat stays while the mechanic held the bars steady with one hand and used the air hammer with the other. For a seatpost, I held the bars and head tube.
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12-16-22, 02:10 PM
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I tried the air hammer trick and I guess my air hammer isn't good enough. I wanted to try to bore it out on a lathe anyway. Unfortunately I ended up ruining the seat tube. Which I then replaced.
12-20-22, 04:46 PM
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Major progress today.
First - a bit of backstory: I was lucky enough to find someone on OfferUp willing to trade their barely-used compressor (didn't really want to shell out even more of my fun money on one) for a couple of e-bike batteries (of which I have more than I'll ever use), so my die grinder finally has a power source again. O
nly took 10 years to sort this out
Beware, all photos to follow purposefully curated to annoy those folks on this forum who can't stand messy work areas.
Existing chainstay stubs were cut short, as close to the BB shell as possible. This took a wee bit of effort on the left side to avoid nicking the cable guide.
Time to grind. For some reason - even when held tight - the carbide bit would occasionally hang on something and cause the tool to oscillate wildly in the hole. Some careful work with the speed regulator and the angle of attack overcame this, for the most part.
Did the right side first (photo above is out of order to tell the story better). I was surprised that it not only went a lot quicker with the current bit I have in the tool, it also came out really nice.
Filing the burrs smooth:
We have fitment!
Any slop will probably be filled in by brass, and the socket edges can always be tapped in a bit (a bit) when they're warm.
Left side came out good too. Note the slight crinkling of paint around the seatpost due to the crash. Soon to be burnt off once the torch is put to the stays.
bulgie helped out by providing a correct 1010 left dropout with an eyelet - THANK YOU!
Next stop will be at Mike's to get it all put together. Should be interesting. I'll take pictures, of course.
-Kurt
First - a bit of backstory: I was lucky enough to find someone on OfferUp willing to trade their barely-used compressor (didn't really want to shell out even more of my fun money on one) for a couple of e-bike batteries (of which I have more than I'll ever use), so my die grinder finally has a power source again. O
nly took 10 years to sort this out
Beware, all photos to follow purposefully curated to annoy those folks on this forum who can't stand messy work areas.
Existing chainstay stubs were cut short, as close to the BB shell as possible. This took a wee bit of effort on the left side to avoid nicking the cable guide.
Time to grind. For some reason - even when held tight - the carbide bit would occasionally hang on something and cause the tool to oscillate wildly in the hole. Some careful work with the speed regulator and the angle of attack overcame this, for the most part.
Did the right side first (photo above is out of order to tell the story better). I was surprised that it not only went a lot quicker with the current bit I have in the tool, it also came out really nice.
Filing the burrs smooth:
We have fitment!
Any slop will probably be filled in by brass, and the socket edges can always be tapped in a bit (a bit) when they're warm.
Left side came out good too. Note the slight crinkling of paint around the seatpost due to the crash. Soon to be burnt off once the torch is put to the stays.
bulgie helped out by providing a correct 1010 left dropout with an eyelet - THANK YOU!
Next stop will be at Mike's to get it all put together. Should be interesting. I'll take pictures, of course.
-Kurt
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12-20-22, 06:18 PM
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I keep looking at framesets in the sub 250 range and think they are too expensive. You're making them look like screaming deals.
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12-20-22, 06:37 PM
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If I had a frame that needed chainstays, I'd probably custom make a chainstay crown, or bent stays, to accommodate big tires. But to be fair, I'd also be making my own vertical dropouts with a chainrest and stuff because I have quibbles with every other dropout I've seen! Props for keeping this one original! That is probably harder!
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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12-21-22, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
I keep looking at framesets in the sub 250 range and think they are too expensive. You're making them look like screaming deals.
Well, to be fair, a good $250 frameset should be plug-and-play with your component bits, and hopefully have a properly aligned rear triangle.
Originally Posted by scarlson
If I had a frame that needed chainstays, I'd probably custom make a chainstay crown, or bent stays, to accommodate big tires. But to be fair, I'd also be making my own vertical dropouts with a chainrest and stuff because I have quibbles with every other dropout I've seen! Props for keeping this one original! That is probably harder!
-Kurt
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01-29-23, 05:27 PM
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Some progress, finally. None directly to the frame as it is, but it's still a lot farther than this frame has been in a while.
First off, polishing up the dropout ends and filing the tab to fit inside the chainstay:
Cutting a slot into the tube to help the file get started:
Filing the chainstay slot open to accommodate the dropout:
Giving the ends a little bevel to match what Woodrup did. Didn't come out perfect, but nothing a bit of extra brass and shaping can't sort out.
All fit with the replacement dropout from bulgie.
Fluxed up. Time for the torch (and someone much more skilled than I to wield it):
Mike doing what he does best.
All joined up. Obviously, not prettied up yet, but there are no voids here, and that's how it's supposed to be.
Mike grinding the brass out of the seatstay. Would have done it myself, but I was re-wrapping his bars while he was doing this.
First off, polishing up the dropout ends and filing the tab to fit inside the chainstay:
Cutting a slot into the tube to help the file get started:
Filing the chainstay slot open to accommodate the dropout:
Giving the ends a little bevel to match what Woodrup did. Didn't come out perfect, but nothing a bit of extra brass and shaping can't sort out.
All fit with the replacement dropout from bulgie.
Fluxed up. Time for the torch (and someone much more skilled than I to wield it):
Mike doing what he does best.
All joined up. Obviously, not prettied up yet, but there are no voids here, and that's how it's supposed to be.
Mike grinding the brass out of the seatstay. Would have done it myself, but I was re-wrapping his bars while he was doing this.
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01-29-23, 05:27 PM
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Yes, I did it top-down. That's the way he had it. If it's good enough for Eddy...
Test fit and looking good:
The phoenix is slowly rising from the ashes...
Actual brazing to the frame will have to wait for a little longer. Then we'll brace the chainstays together and attempt to straighten out the bent bit on the right side.
-Kurt
Test fit and looking good:
The phoenix is slowly rising from the ashes...
Actual brazing to the frame will have to wait for a little longer. Then we'll brace the chainstays together and attempt to straighten out the bent bit on the right side.
-Kurt
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