Pro Miyata & thanks to Hazetguy!
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Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
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Pro Miyata & thanks to Hazetguy!
The rusted sky blue Pro Miyata Hazetguy posted for sale three weeks ago is up and running. Took it out for 40 flattish miles. Wow! Best race bike I've ever ridden. The ride - no bad habits, completely confidence building. Haven't done a fast descent yet but it feels better than my old Fuji Pro which took me down Smugglers Notch insanely fast when I'd had it for a few weeks.
All the details are there. Clearances are close. 25c really doesn't work, either to get the rear wheel in with out a fight or have anything bigger than cardboard between brake bridge and rubber but 24c works just fine. My 24c Open Paves fit like they were made for each other. I'm guessing 25c tubbies will work as well and 23s would hardly be a hardship! 23s on the 330 rims I have (actual weight - I don't know know the published) will be serious fun! (Front clearance is close enough that I stubbed my finger on the tire reaching down to shift. Shades of the old Fuji.) Miyata made some interesting design choices. The DT top mounted auto-trim SunTour shifters and old school housing over the BB with brazed stops to get the shifter to BB cable run off the paint and decals. Looks like a bottom line 1970s bike boom detail but it is done just right so I won't complain. There is no ST WB bosses and no HT pump peg so this is an old school one WB bike. I'll clamp on a TT peg when I find a nice one and likewise a ST WB just like I did with my Fuji.
The parts I've put on are close to correct time-wise but just what I have on hand. Haven't spent a penny on anything but consumables yet (tubes, cables, chain ...). So, the parts - Chorus 175 52-42-30 & BB because I had it. Newer white painted Cyclone FD and older Cyclone RD. Older French Sachs 13-26 7-speed. No ramps, bells or whistles. Just the 1970s Cyclone/SunTour shifting I raced and loved. Cyclone close reach sidepulls with the pads all the way up. Score! Tektro V-brake levers simply because I love the feel and they actuate with the old Campy NR feel but actually stop if you use good calipers. (My Fuji had Grand Comps. Very good brakes. 1977 I worked in the Fuji flagship Boston shop when we had the first run Superbe equipped bikes. We all "knew" that SunTour didn't actually make the cranksets, cockpits and brakes, that their consortium partners, Sugino, Nitto and Diacomp made them. I always assumed that stayed true for things like the Cyclone brakes. Never used them before but they strike me as being one of DiaComp's best. They seem to work very well but haven't seen wet yet. Really good QR that works well partially open for on the fly brake tune.)
Wheels - fun. Sanshin LF 126 with oil ports and nice bearings that I've had a while, laced to Open Sport rims on butted DT spokes. I'll pull the rims and replace with silver 330 tubbie rims and just as light Sapim 302s. (Hoping I can get silver but black may be the only obtainable right now.)
Cockpit - right now, my custom TiCycles black painted steel -22 155 paired with unknown very long TTT-like reach and rounded "shoulders" HBs that my hands (and forearms) love. (Shoulder or outboard corner. Pista bars have sloped shoulders. Modern bars have hard cornered shoulders for forearm rests. Hate 'em. They bone-bruisemy forearms.) SunTour MTB 26.8 post. Specialized narrow, hard, grooved seat that looks harsh but is a "not even there' fit for me.
End result: Stand back and it quietly says 1980s race. Get closer and if you know what your looking at, you see "fast and fun". If you don't you see a $100 beat up pile of ****. This fall I'll tear it down, framesave it and paint the rust and chips with matching fingernail polish. This will never be a rain bike and it would cost hundreds of hours or thousands of dollars to make it presentable,
And to Hazetguy - thank you! Bike's a keeper. (And fun - I drew it up on the computer and the main triangle is the Peter Mooney to a "T"!. With race instead of tour chainstays and a degree different HS angle.) To the rest - there were no surprises. Hazetguy's photos showed clearly all the rust and abuse. His packing meant the box could have gone around the world a few times and the bike wouldn't have cared. And Hazetguy, I'm hoping I can save that Superbe FD. Got the parallelagrame loose with a lot of lock oil but 24 hours didn't touch the completely frozen limit screws. Been a few days now. Need to go out and look.
All the details are there. Clearances are close. 25c really doesn't work, either to get the rear wheel in with out a fight or have anything bigger than cardboard between brake bridge and rubber but 24c works just fine. My 24c Open Paves fit like they were made for each other. I'm guessing 25c tubbies will work as well and 23s would hardly be a hardship! 23s on the 330 rims I have (actual weight - I don't know know the published) will be serious fun! (Front clearance is close enough that I stubbed my finger on the tire reaching down to shift. Shades of the old Fuji.) Miyata made some interesting design choices. The DT top mounted auto-trim SunTour shifters and old school housing over the BB with brazed stops to get the shifter to BB cable run off the paint and decals. Looks like a bottom line 1970s bike boom detail but it is done just right so I won't complain. There is no ST WB bosses and no HT pump peg so this is an old school one WB bike. I'll clamp on a TT peg when I find a nice one and likewise a ST WB just like I did with my Fuji.
The parts I've put on are close to correct time-wise but just what I have on hand. Haven't spent a penny on anything but consumables yet (tubes, cables, chain ...). So, the parts - Chorus 175 52-42-30 & BB because I had it. Newer white painted Cyclone FD and older Cyclone RD. Older French Sachs 13-26 7-speed. No ramps, bells or whistles. Just the 1970s Cyclone/SunTour shifting I raced and loved. Cyclone close reach sidepulls with the pads all the way up. Score! Tektro V-brake levers simply because I love the feel and they actuate with the old Campy NR feel but actually stop if you use good calipers. (My Fuji had Grand Comps. Very good brakes. 1977 I worked in the Fuji flagship Boston shop when we had the first run Superbe equipped bikes. We all "knew" that SunTour didn't actually make the cranksets, cockpits and brakes, that their consortium partners, Sugino, Nitto and Diacomp made them. I always assumed that stayed true for things like the Cyclone brakes. Never used them before but they strike me as being one of DiaComp's best. They seem to work very well but haven't seen wet yet. Really good QR that works well partially open for on the fly brake tune.)
Wheels - fun. Sanshin LF 126 with oil ports and nice bearings that I've had a while, laced to Open Sport rims on butted DT spokes. I'll pull the rims and replace with silver 330 tubbie rims and just as light Sapim 302s. (Hoping I can get silver but black may be the only obtainable right now.)
Cockpit - right now, my custom TiCycles black painted steel -22 155 paired with unknown very long TTT-like reach and rounded "shoulders" HBs that my hands (and forearms) love. (Shoulder or outboard corner. Pista bars have sloped shoulders. Modern bars have hard cornered shoulders for forearm rests. Hate 'em. They bone-bruisemy forearms.) SunTour MTB 26.8 post. Specialized narrow, hard, grooved seat that looks harsh but is a "not even there' fit for me.
End result: Stand back and it quietly says 1980s race. Get closer and if you know what your looking at, you see "fast and fun". If you don't you see a $100 beat up pile of ****. This fall I'll tear it down, framesave it and paint the rust and chips with matching fingernail polish. This will never be a rain bike and it would cost hundreds of hours or thousands of dollars to make it presentable,
And to Hazetguy - thank you! Bike's a keeper. (And fun - I drew it up on the computer and the main triangle is the Peter Mooney to a "T"!. With race instead of tour chainstays and a degree different HS angle.) To the rest - there were no surprises. Hazetguy's photos showed clearly all the rust and abuse. His packing meant the box could have gone around the world a few times and the bike wouldn't have cared. And Hazetguy, I'm hoping I can save that Superbe FD. Got the parallelagrame loose with a lot of lock oil but 24 hours didn't touch the completely frozen limit screws. Been a few days now. Need to go out and look.
#2
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Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
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nice....what year?
I know the ride on my 84 team miyata with sanshin hubs, gel330 rims and not super high end challenge elite tubies in 25 mm, is simply magic, to bad they are a little light for me, but I am willing to bet this will end even better of a ride when you switch to the gel 330
I know the ride on my 84 team miyata with sanshin hubs, gel330 rims and not super high end challenge elite tubies in 25 mm, is simply magic, to bad they are a little light for me, but I am willing to bet this will end even better of a ride when you switch to the gel 330
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Likes For Piff:
#4
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I'm staying digital photo illiterate. (Did B & W in HS, took it to obsession and know I could go there in a flash. Plus I like seeing the world "as is" and not with my imaginary viewfinder over everything. Now, if one of you Portlanders wants to take some shots, I'll ride it over. (But not for a week or so, Quarantine.)
And for now it's got bolts from my stash that work but aren't bicycle at all. (Can't shop anywhere where I have to see the merchandise.)
Edit: squirtdad, I don't know the year. Haven't had the time or focus to go online and look. 1985? The auto trim shifters and aero/heavily ovalized fork and seatstays so I'm thinking not much earlier but horizontal dropouts, one WB, no head tube peg.
And for now it's got bolts from my stash that work but aren't bicycle at all. (Can't shop anywhere where I have to see the merchandise.)
Edit: squirtdad, I don't know the year. Haven't had the time or focus to go online and look. 1985? The auto trim shifters and aero/heavily ovalized fork and seatstays so I'm thinking not much earlier but horizontal dropouts, one WB, no head tube peg.
Last edited by 79pmooney; 08-03-22 at 12:08 AM.
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I've always kind of wanted a pro miyata, but I like wider tires. Good to know that I should be aware of that if I keep them on the list in the future.
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,670
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
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I'm staying digital photo illiterate. (Did B & W in HS, took it to obsession and know I could go there in a flash. Plus I like seeing the world "as is" and not with my imaginary viewfinder over everything. Now, if one of you Portlanders wants to take some shots, I'll ride it over. (But not for a week or so, Quarantine.)
And for now it's got bolts from my stash that work but aren't bicycle at all. (Can't shop anywhere where I have to see the merchandise.)
Edit: squirtdad, I don't know the year. Haven't had the time or focus to go online and look. 1985? The auto trim shifters and aero/heavily ovalized fork and seatstays so I'm thinking not much earlier but horizontal dropouts, one WB, no head tube peg.
And for now it's got bolts from my stash that work but aren't bicycle at all. (Can't shop anywhere where I have to see the merchandise.)
Edit: squirtdad, I don't know the year. Haven't had the time or focus to go online and look. 1985? The auto trim shifters and aero/heavily ovalized fork and seatstays so I'm thinking not much earlier but horizontal dropouts, one WB, no head tube peg.

I rehabbed my OM-1 (can't get mercury batteries any more, so sent it out for a fix) and do this a bit
can't wait for report on how the move to tubies goes
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)