Early 80s Pug tandem....
#76
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Similar thing happened to me when I rode across Canada on my 1974 Grand Record all loaded up with camping gear. The first time I rode it without the load, I didn't like that feeling!
Mark B
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Last edited by bikemig; 09-19-22 at 11:42 AM.
#78
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I can't think of any advantage to the bent seat tube to compensate for that, other than a slightly shorter wheelbase, maybe handy if your bike storage doesn't have room for a longer tandem. If the curved tube is used to make the chainstays shorter as with a time trial bike, then that's just super dumb on a touring tandem. Pure "con" with no "pro".
People talk about the length of the rear TT on tandems, and it is important (longer always = better, for vintage tandems — there never was one too long). But they don't think as much about the keel tube length, which is probably equally important.
Not usually a Gitane hater, but those tandems bug me.
EDIT: Oops I didn't look at the spec sheet before I posted. That 62 cm R. TT is actually pretty decent as vintage tandems go. I still prefer a minimum of 65 cm, but that was pretty rare in the Classic era.
I take back some of the hate! Sorry about that.
Last edited by bulgie; 09-19-22 at 11:49 AM.
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The curved seat tube usually makes the bottom tube (keel tube) shorter. Though there are other ways to design it, that's by far the most common. On a tandem that's already too short in back, compared to your stoker's single bike, moving her feet forward means she probably won't be able to stand on the pedals for climbing because the handlebars are too close. Sometimes even hitting her knees on the bar. Some people never stand, and so can live with that, but I think stokers should be able to, even if only briefly to get some blood flowing in the ol' ischial tuberosities.
I can't think of any advantage to the bent seat tube to compensate for that, other than a slightly shorter wheelbase, maybe handy if your bike storage doesn't have room for a longer tandem. If the curved tube is used to make the chainstays shorter as with a time trial bike, then that's just super dumb on a touring tandem. Pure "con" with no "pro".
People talk about the length of the rear TT on tandems, and it is important (longer always = better, for vintage tandems — there never was one too long). But they don't think as much about the keel tube length, which is probably equally important.
Not usually a Gitane hater, but those tandems bug me.
I can't think of any advantage to the bent seat tube to compensate for that, other than a slightly shorter wheelbase, maybe handy if your bike storage doesn't have room for a longer tandem. If the curved tube is used to make the chainstays shorter as with a time trial bike, then that's just super dumb on a touring tandem. Pure "con" with no "pro".
People talk about the length of the rear TT on tandems, and it is important (longer always = better, for vintage tandems — there never was one too long). But they don't think as much about the keel tube length, which is probably equally important.
Not usually a Gitane hater, but those tandems bug me.
#80
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All great points and I appreciate the OP letting me hijack his Peugeot tandem thread a bit. This bike is a bit tall (21 inch) for the stoker so it may not be as much of an issue here. Plus how hard is it to get a shorter stem for the stoker and/or flip the bars? Just spit balling here but I reckon there might be solutions. Your point about room for the stoker to stand is well taken.
bikemig , I think it was discussed earlier in this thread that the frame size can be 'big' for the stoker and still work as with the right mounting and dismounting technique the stoker never really needs to 'stand over' the top-tube...
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Finally got around to swapping in a Suntour Cyclone MII FD for the Simplex I was having trouble with. Just a spin up and down the drive, but it shifts great- no issues dropping down onto the granny! Now to get the Cyclone MII RD I've got sorted out and on there...... And some Bar-cons...... Also searching for a front rack that will allow me to carry a rando bag and a couple low panniers (and that doesn't require mounts other than the ones on the drop-outs and at the crown..... and isn't crazy expensive.... and is silver and looks appropriate on a vintage French tandem......)..
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Current incarnation- built up some fresh wheels with some Phil Wood tandem hubs I scored pretty cheap and a set of NOS Mavic Mod 4 rims. Tight squeeze with 38c tires and fenders, but it works. The Cyclones ended up on my Trek, but the V-GT Luxe RD and Vx FD with bar-cons work great (and bar-end shifters sure are nicer on a tandem than reaching to the down-tube....). I'm not sure the sprung Brooks captain's saddle will stay, but it's what I had on hand. Eventually I want to try a front rack that'll take some panniers (assuming I can convince my stoker to go on enough/long-enough rides to justify). Fender lines still need a little tweaking...... when I get around to it.......





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Current incarnation- built up some fresh wheels with some Phil Wood tandem hubs I scored pretty cheap and a set of NOS Mavic Mod 4 rims. Tight squeeze with 38c tires and fenders, but it works. The Cyclones ended up on my Trek, but the V-GT Luxe RD and Vx FD with bar-cons work great (and bar-end shifters sure are nicer on a tandem than reaching to the down-tube....). I'm not sure the sprung Brooks captain's saddle will stay, but it's what I had on hand. Eventually I want to try a front rack that'll take some panniers (assuming I can convince my stoker to go on enough/long-enough rides to justify). Fender lines still need a little tweaking...... when I get around to it.......


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