Replace 130mm 52T and 42T 7-speed chainrings with new 10-speed chainrings
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Replace 130mm 52T and 42T 7-speed chainrings with new 10-speed chainrings
Hi There,
I have an old MBK super mirage road bike for which I'd like to replace the chainrings as they are worn out. I was looking for matching chainrings (130 - 52T + 42T - 7-speed) but could not find any exact matches. Is it ok to use more modern 10-speed chainrings instead? Maybe also a bit more compact?
I have an old MBK super mirage road bike for which I'd like to replace the chainrings as they are worn out. I was looking for matching chainrings (130 - 52T + 42T - 7-speed) but could not find any exact matches. Is it ok to use more modern 10-speed chainrings instead? Maybe also a bit more compact?
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Yes it is.
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If the 10 speed chainring fits the crank, definitely use it. However, the 10 speed chainrings will likely have a more narrow spacing between the rings. You may need to add a set of spacers under one or both rings to reduce or eliminate chain scrape on the inner chainring, when in the small chainring and on the 2nd smallest freewheel cog. Of course, you shouldn't ride the inner ring with the smallest cog (but people do it all the time anyway.).
Wheels Manufacturing makes some 0.6mm spacers as a bag of 20 (?). You can start with those first. I first used those under the large chainring, but I eventually went to 1mm spacers instead. I didn't have the chainring-to-chainstay clearance to add spacers under the inner chainring.
You may also need to use slightly longer chainring bolts. Problem Solvers makes some triple chainring bolts which you can cut down. I use a Dremel tool with the thin #409 cutting disk to slice them down to the optimum length.
Wheels Manufacturing makes some 0.6mm spacers as a bag of 20 (?). You can start with those first. I first used those under the large chainring, but I eventually went to 1mm spacers instead. I didn't have the chainring-to-chainstay clearance to add spacers under the inner chainring.
You may also need to use slightly longer chainring bolts. Problem Solvers makes some triple chainring bolts which you can cut down. I use a Dremel tool with the thin #409 cutting disk to slice them down to the optimum length.
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If the 10 speed chainring fits the crank, definitely use it. However, the 10 speed chainrings will likely have a more narrow spacing between the rings. You may need to add a set of spacers under one or both rings to reduce or eliminate chain scrape on the inner chainring, when in the small chainring and on the 2nd smallest freewheel cog. Of course, you shouldn't ride the inner ring with the smallest cog (but people do it all the time anyway.).
Wheels Manufacturing makes some 0.6mm spacers as a bag of 20 (?). You can start with those first. I first used those under the large chainring, but I eventually went to 1mm spacers instead. I didn't have the chainring-to-chainstay clearance to add spacers under the inner chainring.
You may also need to use slightly longer chainring bolts. Problem Solvers makes some triple chainring bolts which you can cut down. I use a Dremel tool with the thin #409 cutting disk to slice them down to the optimum length.
Wheels Manufacturing makes some 0.6mm spacers as a bag of 20 (?). You can start with those first. I first used those under the large chainring, but I eventually went to 1mm spacers instead. I didn't have the chainring-to-chainstay clearance to add spacers under the inner chainring.
You may also need to use slightly longer chainring bolts. Problem Solvers makes some triple chainring bolts which you can cut down. I use a Dremel tool with the thin #409 cutting disk to slice them down to the optimum length.
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No, because they are anodized aluminum, not raw aluminum. A common mistake among internet engineers misreading a galvanic table. Who ever told you to be worried about that, remove them from your life.
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