Circuit Rebuild
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Circuit Rebuild
EDIT: I've updated this thread as I am closing in on finishing the build.
Several months ago, I picked up an '87 Schwinn Circuit (the black matte finished one) that was in rough shape. It appears that it was put up wet as a trainer bike given the scrapes, surface rust and corrosion on the top tube. On top of that, the nicks and corrosion were touched up with another black paint that left a shiny, rough finish. Not a good look. When I got it home, I also discovered that the stem was fused into the steerer tube. The rebuild languished as multiple attempts and various methods of removing the stem failed (heat, penetrating oil soaks for weeks on-end, "putting it on the rack" to pull it out with a come-along between two trees, etc). I finally gave up and dissolved the stem in NaOH.
Now, I'm to the point of addressing the frame, having stripped it of all the hardware. My goal is to try an airbrush to replace the matte finish, given that I read somewhere on the forum that a matte paint finish is more forgiving. I've done one other frame repaint with rattle cans (Rasta Ride) that turned out acceptable, but I'm looking forward to learning to use the airbrush and compare the results. I'm hoping that the finer detail and better uniformity of an airbrush over hand painting will allow me to save a fair amount of the original frame paint, unless the new and old matte finishes are too dissimilar. Unfortunately, the frame has various areas of dinged paint down to the metal, spidering under the paint that I had to carefully sand down and other areas where the matte finish is gone that I'll be airbrushing places all over the frame.
My current decision has to do with the top tube "Circuit" decals. The DT and fork "Schwinn" decals are in decent shape so I won't touch those and work around them. However, the TT decals have been marred and there is spots of bare frame that amongst the decals that I won't be able to protect from the airbrush. Therefore, I'm debating on either 1) removing those decals prior to the airbrushing or 2) paint over them. That "Circuit" decal is available online and my plan would be to replace them. If I remove them, what suggestions do people have on how to do so? To me, it doesn't appear that there's a clear coat over the decals, given the matte finish. However, I can't discern an edge to the decals. It has me wondering if the "Circuit" logo was painted on rather than being a decal.
EDIT: The original Circuit decals are painted on. I wet sanded down the rough spots on the frame to prep it for touch up painting.
Thanks in advance!


Several months ago, I picked up an '87 Schwinn Circuit (the black matte finished one) that was in rough shape. It appears that it was put up wet as a trainer bike given the scrapes, surface rust and corrosion on the top tube. On top of that, the nicks and corrosion were touched up with another black paint that left a shiny, rough finish. Not a good look. When I got it home, I also discovered that the stem was fused into the steerer tube. The rebuild languished as multiple attempts and various methods of removing the stem failed (heat, penetrating oil soaks for weeks on-end, "putting it on the rack" to pull it out with a come-along between two trees, etc). I finally gave up and dissolved the stem in NaOH.
Now, I'm to the point of addressing the frame, having stripped it of all the hardware. My goal is to try an airbrush to replace the matte finish, given that I read somewhere on the forum that a matte paint finish is more forgiving. I've done one other frame repaint with rattle cans (Rasta Ride) that turned out acceptable, but I'm looking forward to learning to use the airbrush and compare the results. I'm hoping that the finer detail and better uniformity of an airbrush over hand painting will allow me to save a fair amount of the original frame paint, unless the new and old matte finishes are too dissimilar. Unfortunately, the frame has various areas of dinged paint down to the metal, spidering under the paint that I had to carefully sand down and other areas where the matte finish is gone that I'll be airbrushing places all over the frame.
My current decision has to do with the top tube "Circuit" decals. The DT and fork "Schwinn" decals are in decent shape so I won't touch those and work around them. However, the TT decals have been marred and there is spots of bare frame that amongst the decals that I won't be able to protect from the airbrush. Therefore, I'm debating on either 1) removing those decals prior to the airbrushing or 2) paint over them. That "Circuit" decal is available online and my plan would be to replace them. If I remove them, what suggestions do people have on how to do so? To me, it doesn't appear that there's a clear coat over the decals, given the matte finish. However, I can't discern an edge to the decals. It has me wondering if the "Circuit" logo was painted on rather than being a decal.
EDIT: The original Circuit decals are painted on. I wet sanded down the rough spots on the frame to prep it for touch up painting.
Thanks in advance!



Last edited by Triplecrank92; 01-21-23 at 02:59 PM. Reason: added picture
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Painting
Having removed the stem from the fork, I prepped the frame for touch-up painting. This touch-up was achieved by using an Iwata airbrush. I taped the "Schwinn" logos, the "warning" decal between the DT shifters, and the head tube badge. Amazingly, it only took two small jars of Testor's flat black paint to spray multiple coats of paint. The airbrush was easy to use and gave stellar results. The paint was smooth and evenly coated the frame, however, one could see the difference in the sprayed flat paint and the paint around the Schwinn logo. After letting it dry, I made the dumb mistake of thinking that I should spray the inside tubes to protect it from rust. In doing so, I let some of the Frame Saver leak out on the paint. Back to a second round of wet sanding and a touch-up of small areas of the frame. However, I did learn that the Testors wasn't going to adhere to the frame for very long and would need a clear coat





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Clear Coat
To prevent the Testors flat black from rubbing off, I used a can of Rust-Oleum's Matte Clear Enamel to very lightly spray 4 to 5 coats on the fork. If I was going to mess up, I figured it would be the fork first before the frame.

With a success with the fork, I tackled the frame. Fortunately, I avoided any major runs or goofs using the clear coat. The clear coat actually helped out to balance the old black paint around the Schwinn logos and the touch-up Testors paint. Letting it set up for a week, I started putting the bike back together today, given that it's been raining on and off all day. Sorry for the poor lighting....








Tomorrow, I hope to get the new hoods on the original Dia-Comp brake levers and build the cock pit. I have already reworked the original wheel set, but just have to dig them out of their hiding spot in the garage. Hopefully, I have more pictures tomorrow and possibly the completed bike. Until later......

With a success with the fork, I tackled the frame. Fortunately, I avoided any major runs or goofs using the clear coat. The clear coat actually helped out to balance the old black paint around the Schwinn logos and the touch-up Testors paint. Letting it set up for a week, I started putting the bike back together today, given that it's been raining on and off all day. Sorry for the poor lighting....








Tomorrow, I hope to get the new hoods on the original Dia-Comp brake levers and build the cock pit. I have already reworked the original wheel set, but just have to dig them out of their hiding spot in the garage. Hopefully, I have more pictures tomorrow and possibly the completed bike. Until later......
Last edited by Triplecrank92; 01-22-23 at 10:00 AM.
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That looks great. I really liked mine and the Sprint is fine stuff. I’d give it a few more weeks of drying time. My best luck with Rustoleum is a full week in the sun between coats.
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Mock Up
Last night, having dissolved the original stem, I installed the handlebars on a parts bin, 110 mm Cinelli stem, but couldn't tighten the clamp down on the bars. The central sleeve of the bars measured 26.37mm. In reviewing the web, I couldn't find where Cinelli made a larger clamp diameter size so I'm suspicious that the clamp of the first stem is out-of-round. I pulled a second Cinelli stem out and it did tighten up but the stem is 120 mm long. With that length, I'm slightly concerned that the handling will be compromised and act like a boat tiller, but we'll wait to see after first test ride around the block.
Trying to keep the original look of the bike, I purchased a white Turbo saddle to use. I never have ridden a Turbo so I hope that it is compatible with "me hindquarters". This morning, I loosely installed the saddle on the post (after carefully cleaning my hands, the seat post and anything else close by for grease) in anticipation of what the bike will look like........
Trying to keep the original look of the bike, I purchased a white Turbo saddle to use. I never have ridden a Turbo so I hope that it is compatible with "me hindquarters". This morning, I loosely installed the saddle on the post (after carefully cleaning my hands, the seat post and anything else close by for grease) in anticipation of what the bike will look like........

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CAUTION - wet rims require increased stopping distance.
WARNING - hands atop the bars require increased reaction time for braking.
CAUTION - saddle may make your butt numb.
WARNING - chain lube may get on your socks.
WARNING - hands atop the bars require increased reaction time for braking.
CAUTION - saddle may make your butt numb.
WARNING - chain lube may get on your socks.
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lovely transformation.
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I installed the handlebars on a parts bin, 110 mm Cinelli stem, but couldn't tighten the clamp down on the bars. The central sleeve of the bars measured 26.37mm. In reviewing the web, I couldn't find where Cinelli made a larger clamp diameter size so I'm suspicious that the clamp of the first stem is out-of-round.
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was just looking at an old 1986 Circuit ad: in addition to the white Turbo, it had white hoods and tape, and red toe straps…damn sharp.
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I've got the white tape and hoods on stand-by. I lucked out and found some white NOS Did-Comp hoods online cheap. The original hoods were sticky, dirty and falling apart. SO, if anyone has any ideas on keeping the new ones from doing the same, I'm all ears. When it came down to the cable housing color, white, red and black were in the running. The house poll landed on black but red was running a very close second. If I wasn't putting black clipless pedals on the cranks in order to wear the cleats, the old-school red toe straps would have been the winner, which of course would have required the red cable housing. The red highlights of the brake cables, the "Circuit" logo, and toe straps would have been enticing. Maybe later....
Last edited by Triplecrank92; 01-24-23 at 08:02 PM.
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I've got the white tape and hoods on stand-by. I lucked out and found some white NOS Did-Comp hoods online cheap. The original hoods were sticky, dirty and falling apart. SO, if anyone has any ideas on keeping the new ones from doing the same, I'm all ears. When it came down to the cable housing color, white, red and black were in the running. The house poll landed on black but red was running a very close second. If I wasn't putting black clipless pedals on the cranks in order to wear the cleats, the old-school red toe straps would have been the winner, which of course would have required the red cable housing. The red highlights of the brake cables, the "Circuit" logo, and toe straps would have be enticing. Maybe later....

I like how the black paint turned out. Normally, I am not a fan of black paint, but the semi gloss finish looks good. Also, my vote would be for red cable housing.
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The 1986 ad shows black cable housing, but I agree, in lieu of red toe straps, the red cable housing might hit the proper accent.
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I'm a fan of silver cable housings. But I can tell no matter what you choose, that bike will be killer when done. It already is.
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Kickin the tires
I hobbled the bike together enough to ride around the block a few times this morning to get a quick assessment (like the brake hoods?). Here are the results:
- The stem is on the fence in terms of length. While it is doable and would be ok for long straight rides, I like the handling to be a little quicker. So I'll start looking for a 90 or 100mm length Cinelli to swap out.
- There's a bump in the rear wheel that I could feel on the smooth pavement. Jumping off, I spun the wheel and saw a bump in the tire but not the rim. So, I'm hoping the tube is just kinked. A small afternoon project.
- Seeing the light of day for the first time, I thought the Circuit with the airbrushed Testors paint and the matte clear coat looked good. My painting skills have improved since painting the rasta Bianchi, but I next need to learn how to do a better job of smoothing the old paint before spraying. There were a few spots on the top tube where the old chips could be seen under the new paint. But the braking cable should hide some of that. Speaking of which....
- While riding and looking at the top tube, I began doubting the "house" poll results for the black cable housing. I might just have to get the red housing. I think it will pop.
- Lastly, I was really impressed with the ride of this thing. It is a tad big for me. It's a 24inch / 60cm frame which I can ride but 58cm is my preferred. However, the bike felt light underneath me and handled well, even given the slow pace that is was doing and the long stem. With only one brake set up and wearing tennis shoes on small clipless pedals, I didn't have the opportunity to put any power to it to see how it felt at speed. That will come later....

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Looks like you need one of these for that XA stem in the right color.

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That photoshop job actually isn't too bad; at least you get an idea of what red cables would look like.