Andrew_G

I similarly vote against spreading the rear end of the wonderful Cinelli SC frameset. To fit in a wider freewheel, you can use a thinner locknut on the left side, and add spacers to the right side. Then re-dish the rear wheel, if the nipples will still turn on the spokes. The original Campy Record rear hub locknuts are 8 mm thick, part number 33/8. Campy also made a thinner locknut for the Record rear hub. The 6mm thick locknut is part number 33/6. Distributor Euro Asia still shows both 8mm and 6mm locknuts available. Here's the 6mm Record rear hub locknut: https://www.euroasiaimports.com/prod...-966p21985.htm I'm doubt a 7 speed freewheel will fit within a 120mm rear end, but I believe that a narrow 6 freewheel will (while using a 6mm locknut on the left side). Or you could use an even thinner Campy Tipo locknut and add even more spacers to the right side. The Campy Pista rear hub locknut is also extra thin. I presume the threading of a pista rear hub is the same as a road hub:https://www.euroasiaimports.com/prod...-966p21987.htm You can find freewheels on eBay. I haven't checked for 5-6 speed lately. Some of the sellers don't know or care to state what the FW threading is (ISO, Italian or British). IRD is making new 5, 6 and 7 speed freewheels. My experience is that the IRD FW threading was originally ISO but later changed to English (British) thread. I'd check directly with IRD and confirm the FW theading. You can easily find English (British) thread rear hubs (and pairs) used or new on eBay, and then have a nice clincher wheelset built. I had to add a 1mm spacer under the IRD freewheel because the FW body wasn't deep enough to properly fit on a NR rear hub. Here's the IRD freewheel page: https://www.interlocracing.com/shop?search=freewheel The legacy Sachs (or Regina, if you can find them) freewheels are nicer than the IRD, in my opinion. BF members have commented in other threads about old style new manufacture clincher rims.

Rooney 

To reiterate, I plan on leaving the rear at 120 with the 5-spd.

(Is anyone else getting an error message while trying to reach the 2nd page of this thread?)

Kabuki12

I haven’t visited this thread in a while. It looks like you have made decent headway in getting it on the road. It sure cleaned up nicely and the red bar tape is very nice. I agree with trimming the cables so the arch matches and don’t forget the locking acorn nut on the rear brake.

Rooney 

Good catch! It made me look at the first photos; no acorn nut on the rear brake there either. I guess there's still a part to acquire.

In other news, a pair of NOS red Cinelli Milano barend plugs arrived today. They feel a bit thin and flimsy, we'll see how they do.

Rooney 

Life and other projects have slowed progress on the Cinelli.

The last thing I was doing was attempting to true the wheels, however, neither wanted to cooperate. The front has clearly been rebuilt at some point already. I've been thinking it may be time to rebuild the wheels again, using the original hubs, which seem to be in fine shape. I work at a shop with plenty of vintage parts, including a handful of old tubular rims. There are a few grey anodized Mavic pairs and a set of Campagnolo rims which seem to be from the 80s. Neither of those options seems appropriate for the build. This set of "Record R.P. Italy" rims seems the most era correct, but I can't turn up any info on them. Does anyone recognize the label? There are no other markings on the rims.

I suppose another option would be rebuilding the wheels in their current configuration, with the hope that they'll true up better by starting over.

repechage

I have had success restarting with the same materials - but test:
is the rim flat when on a flat surface?
are all the spokes the same length?
( on a rear wheel- segregate drive and non drive side )
any dents? Sometimes fixable.
do the current spokes all fill the spoke nipples?

so can be done.

Set aside the spokes from one front wheel I took apart- too short spokes. This was probably from the factory but not good practice.