Free ‘73 Cinelli Speciale Corsa
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Free ‘73 Cinelli Speciale Corsa
Through various degrees of separation and people knowing I’m a bike guy I was offered an old bike sitting unused in a basement with photos of a silver Cinelli which I quickly realized was an SC. Everything seems original other than the front rim which has no label. The rear is a Fiamme.
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.




(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.




(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
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Very cool and interesting! You are a lucky duck! What is the serial number?
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Through various degrees of separation and people knowing I’m a bike guy I was offered an old bike sitting unused in a basement with photos of a silver Cinelli which I quickly realized was an SC. Everything seems original other than the front rim which has no label. The rear is a Fiamme.
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.

(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.

(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)



#4
Senior Member
I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.
1. I can't help you except to say prepare to spend a BUNCH of money for these little globs of rubber.
2. Bullseye wheels and the like are readily available, as are brake pads.
3. It would be a CRIME to modify this frame.
Are you sure the front rim is mismatched, or is it just missing its decal?
Last edited by Bad Lag; 10-30-22 at 01:11 PM.
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#5
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Through various degrees of separation and people knowing I’m a bike guy I was offered an old bike sitting unused in a basement with photos of a silver Cinelli which I quickly realized was an SC. Everything seems original other than the front rim which has no label. The rear is a Fiamme.
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods? I believe several people make them, use the search forum here and the general internet.
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use). Kool Stop makes fabulous brake blocks that will easily slide right into those holders.
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub. I don’t think, have you tried a different wheel yet? It might be a simple matter of finagling the slightly wider hub in to frame. You might be able to simple have a slightly longer axle installed in the current wheel.




(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods? I believe several people make them, use the search forum here and the general internet.
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use). Kool Stop makes fabulous brake blocks that will easily slide right into those holders.
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub. I don’t think, have you tried a different wheel yet? It might be a simple matter of finagling the slightly wider hub in to frame. You might be able to simple have a slightly longer axle installed in the current wheel.




(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Nice find.....I hope you offered the owner a little something for the "old bike sitting in the basement"..... 
Best, Ben

Best, Ben
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"EVERY PERSON IS GUILTY OF ALL THE GOOD THEY DID NOT DO"
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Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors
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I'm not a fan, either, but for this bike, yes, buy some high quality tubular tires. I think I would just leave the front rim as it is, too. It is part of the bike's history.
1. I can't help you except to say prepare to spend a BUNCH of money for these little globs of rubber.
2. Bullseye wheels and the like are readily available, as are brake pads.
3. It would be a CRIME to modify this frame.
Are you sure the front rim is mismatched, or is it just missing its decal?
1. I can't help you except to say prepare to spend a BUNCH of money for these little globs of rubber.
2. Bullseye wheels and the like are readily available, as are brake pads.
3. It would be a CRIME to modify this frame.
Are you sure the front rim is mismatched, or is it just missing its decal?

Don't think I've ever seen a serrated tubi rim.

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Going to take the person who gave you the bike out to dinner?
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#9
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First, I would be thankful the frame fits well enough to ride. 
I would not spread the rear dropouts or do anything that was not easily reversible.
If you want clinchers, build a separate set of wheels but keep the original wheels as they are. There may not be much clearance for wider tires.
Looks like mid 70’s; have you worked out the date?
Great find in great shape!

I would not spread the rear dropouts or do anything that was not easily reversible.
If you want clinchers, build a separate set of wheels but keep the original wheels as they are. There may not be much clearance for wider tires.
Great find in great shape!
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Last edited by Schreck83; 10-30-22 at 04:21 PM. Reason: Date is in the title. doh.
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#10
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Congrats, that's a heck of a nice freebie. 👍 Something tells me, you deserve it, or at least someone thought you did. 🤔😉😁
I say keep it stock & restore it, after all, it's "Special", right? 😎
I say keep it stock & restore it, after all, it's "Special", right? 😎
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Great find. Congratulations.
I just got some hoods off the bay from a seller in Serbia. I was worried about the amount of time, but it was probably about 2 weeks to get them.
I just got some hoods off the bay from a seller in Serbia. I was worried about the amount of time, but it was probably about 2 weeks to get them.
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...a seven speed freewheel on that setup won't yield enormous benefits. You're limited in how low a gear you can accomplish by the limitations of front chainwheel sizes, and in the back by what that rear derailleur will shift (for a largest cog). I would not personally do this in your situation, even though I have done a couple in the past. Maybe if you were going to change out a bunch of stuff, and go for indexed shifting. Or even if you needed a larger cog in the back, and were changing out the derailleur. Or even if you were considering racing it, and needed the two extra options for cadence.
More is not necessarily better, in this case.
More is not necessarily better, in this case.
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#13
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Keep the frame at the stock 120.
Use the Campy shoes and search for some suitable pads.
I can sell you some lightly-used shield logo hoods for $25 shipped. PM me, if interested.
Use the Campy shoes and search for some suitable pads.
I can sell you some lightly-used shield logo hoods for $25 shipped. PM me, if interested.
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You’ve got your 710 for spreading and running modern gear sets. Have fun with an honest ten speed. It is a kick. AND WHAT A BIKE TO HAVE FUN ON.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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FREE?!?! Wow, what a score.
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Repro brake hoods and Kool-Stop pads are readily available. The little gobs of rubber are indeed outrageous for what they are, but considering how much the bike cost, you can spring for them.
I agree with the above posters about not spreading the rear. I would first ride the bike with the existing freewheel unless it doesn't shift well. If you want to change it, you should still be able to run a 6-speed freewheel as-is, I do that on pretty much all my old bikes. Sometimes a standard 6sp fits with no issues, if not you can spread it a tad with a washer, or look for a narrowly-spaced FW like a Suntour Ultra-6. Maybe even an Ultra-7 would work.
I have never had a problem with cracked Campy jockey wheels, I thought they came that way.
If you have not ridden tubies before, this is your chance to try them. Get a nice new set and ride them for a while, they are pretty nice. If you really don't want to mess with them, rebuild the wheels on the same hubs or just buy another set. You could probably find a nice Campy Record clincher set for less than the cost of new spokes/rims/labor. I would use new or nearly new tires.
Ditch the water bottle cage, it looks like somebody just improvised that one.
Congrats on a fabulous score!
I agree with the above posters about not spreading the rear. I would first ride the bike with the existing freewheel unless it doesn't shift well. If you want to change it, you should still be able to run a 6-speed freewheel as-is, I do that on pretty much all my old bikes. Sometimes a standard 6sp fits with no issues, if not you can spread it a tad with a washer, or look for a narrowly-spaced FW like a Suntour Ultra-6. Maybe even an Ultra-7 would work.
I have never had a problem with cracked Campy jockey wheels, I thought they came that way.
If you have not ridden tubies before, this is your chance to try them. Get a nice new set and ride them for a while, they are pretty nice. If you really don't want to mess with them, rebuild the wheels on the same hubs or just buy another set. You could probably find a nice Campy Record clincher set for less than the cost of new spokes/rims/labor. I would use new or nearly new tires.
Ditch the water bottle cage, it looks like somebody just improvised that one.
Congrats on a fabulous score!
#17
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I picked the bike up on Tuesday, and had a family matter to attend to this week, so I hadn’t done proper research since getting it. I did some reading today and saw that 6spd freewheels were only just being introduced around the time this bike came out, so I’ll leave it at 120 w/ a 5spd. As one poster mentioned, I do have a Trek 710 spread to 130 to fulfill more modern desires.
It came to me by way of a family friend of my girlfriend’s and I was clear about its worth. The owner is happy that it is being looked after and restored. It may be slightly small for me, but we’ll find out. We were actually also offered dinner when we went to pick it up, talk about a deal!
Serial number is 2199, which after checking online, seems to make it a ‘73. The Nuovo Record RD has a 72 Pat. as well, and the Strada crank arms have a 3 inside a diamond which I also found correspond to ‘73.
The front rim is certainly not original. There’s residue from the sticker that looks like an oval, so maybe a Weinmann or Rigida? All of the spokes also appear to be double butted. The rims also both seem to have a bit of wear so I’m wondering if new rims make sense, along with new tubulars. Im very open to recommendations as both are beyond my knowledge. I measured about 35-38mm of clearance between the chainstays, which has me thinking a 25mm tire would be a good bet.
I got some cleaning done on the frame this afternoon, then our friend came over to watch the Mexico GP. I’ll clean parts after work during the week. Gearing-wise, the 14-24 freewheel intimidates me. I’ll hold off on changing the freewheel or chainrings (there was a box of spare parts which included an extra 52t chainring as well as a 57t ring!) until the bike is up and running again tho. I plan to do red newbaums tape and white Campagnolo toe straps (but am again open to suggestions). The shield hoods seem more common on eBay but I’d definitely prefer to find some globe ones if I could. Seems like more hunting will be in order.

It came to me by way of a family friend of my girlfriend’s and I was clear about its worth. The owner is happy that it is being looked after and restored. It may be slightly small for me, but we’ll find out. We were actually also offered dinner when we went to pick it up, talk about a deal!
Serial number is 2199, which after checking online, seems to make it a ‘73. The Nuovo Record RD has a 72 Pat. as well, and the Strada crank arms have a 3 inside a diamond which I also found correspond to ‘73.
The front rim is certainly not original. There’s residue from the sticker that looks like an oval, so maybe a Weinmann or Rigida? All of the spokes also appear to be double butted. The rims also both seem to have a bit of wear so I’m wondering if new rims make sense, along with new tubulars. Im very open to recommendations as both are beyond my knowledge. I measured about 35-38mm of clearance between the chainstays, which has me thinking a 25mm tire would be a good bet.
I got some cleaning done on the frame this afternoon, then our friend came over to watch the Mexico GP. I’ll clean parts after work during the week. Gearing-wise, the 14-24 freewheel intimidates me. I’ll hold off on changing the freewheel or chainrings (there was a box of spare parts which included an extra 52t chainring as well as a 57t ring!) until the bike is up and running again tho. I plan to do red newbaums tape and white Campagnolo toe straps (but am again open to suggestions). The shield hoods seem more common on eBay but I’d definitely prefer to find some globe ones if I could. Seems like more hunting will be in order.


#18
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This is an ebay auction for 2 pairs of World Logo hoods
Campagnolo still offers brake pads for your brakes. The part code is BR-RESR.
If you are planning to ride the bike, there are plenty of aftermarket sealed bearing derailleur pulleys that look the part. Over the years I have use Tacx and BBB, but I am sure there are others.
Suntour Ultra freeweels are a great way to get another gear into a 120OLN frame. Depending on the clearance around the RH rear dropout, you may need to redish the wheel a couple of milimeters. I use them with SRAM 8-speed chains.
Campagnolo still offers brake pads for your brakes. The part code is BR-RESR.
If you are planning to ride the bike, there are plenty of aftermarket sealed bearing derailleur pulleys that look the part. Over the years I have use Tacx and BBB, but I am sure there are others.
Suntour Ultra freeweels are a great way to get another gear into a 120OLN frame. Depending on the clearance around the RH rear dropout, you may need to redish the wheel a couple of milimeters. I use them with SRAM 8-speed chains.
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...you can get that to shift a 14-26 freewheel well. Anything bigger than a 26 cog on the back might be made to work, but not well. I presume that's a 144 BCD crankset, so about the smallest ring you're going to find is probably going to be a 42, which show up used sometimes. Here is one for not too much money. (so far) The wheels are light enough that it might surprise you how high a gear you can push to proper cadence. But if you are riding a lot of hills, you might need to rethink the gearing. Usually, the simplest solution is a Super Mighty Tour crank with a smaller BCD of 110. But then you end up worrying about how many total teeth the NR rear derailleur can handle.
These were set up as Criterium bikes for younger riders when sold, because mostly that's who was buying them.
It helps a lot if you can get some scrap Suntour or Shimano 5 speed freewheels to mix and match parts from, because it's getting harder and harder to find a simple 14-26, or 13-26 5 speed freewheel, even used. I have ended up with a milk crate full of used 5 and 6 speed Suntour freewheels, just so I can manage the gearing on similar older bicycles, like yours. With a few simple tools and a solid bench vise, it's not hard to change the cogs on the early Suntour freewheels. But you do need a pretty solid chain whip and some sort of freewheel vise/holder to disassemble them.
...you can get that to shift a 14-26 freewheel well. Anything bigger than a 26 cog on the back might be made to work, but not well. I presume that's a 144 BCD crankset, so about the smallest ring you're going to find is probably going to be a 42, which show up used sometimes. Here is one for not too much money. (so far) The wheels are light enough that it might surprise you how high a gear you can push to proper cadence. But if you are riding a lot of hills, you might need to rethink the gearing. Usually, the simplest solution is a Super Mighty Tour crank with a smaller BCD of 110. But then you end up worrying about how many total teeth the NR rear derailleur can handle.
These were set up as Criterium bikes for younger riders when sold, because mostly that's who was buying them.
It helps a lot if you can get some scrap Suntour or Shimano 5 speed freewheels to mix and match parts from, because it's getting harder and harder to find a simple 14-26, or 13-26 5 speed freewheel, even used. I have ended up with a milk crate full of used 5 and 6 speed Suntour freewheels, just so I can manage the gearing on similar older bicycles, like yours. With a few simple tools and a solid bench vise, it's not hard to change the cogs on the early Suntour freewheels. But you do need a pretty solid chain whip and some sort of freewheel vise/holder to disassemble them.
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It sounds like this size bike is ride-able to the OP. Keep it original and ride it fair weather days when you're on flat terrain. Perfect.
This is why stables are good.
This is why stables are good.
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That water bottle cage is an early style, period correct (maybe even purchased at the same time as the bike, so it could be "original" to it?) Hi-E cage, and what looks to be an original clamp. Lightweight (about 30g w/o clamp), and that clamp is the specified way they secure to the frame, as in there wasn't some other kind of fancy way to secure them.
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...a-67f6bb1e45d5
https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=6016
https://www.flickr.com/photos/speedp...als/5431859723

Last edited by hazetguy; 10-31-22 at 09:40 AM. Reason: Added links
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Such a beautiful gift. I have been given a couple of bikes over the years , of course not a Cinelli, but it was such an act of kindness it moved me. It is now yours to do what you like and you know what the value is , more importantly , the generosity of the gift. I would just clean it up , grease where needed, and adjust it to personal preference. I think the party that gave it to you would love to see you enjoy it.
#23
Senior Member
This is an ebay auction for 2 pairs of World Logo hoods
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 156
Bikes: Colnago Super (panto) - Gios Professional (1st Generation C-Record) - Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra (Team USA) - Barellia Reynolds 531 - Fully chromed Columbus steel bike (Patelli?) Super Record Titanium
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Through various degrees of separation and people knowing I’m a bike guy I was offered an old bike sitting unused in a basement with photos of a silver Cinelli which I quickly realized was an SC. Everything seems original other than the front rim which has no label. The rear is a Fiamme.
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.




(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
So far I’ve stripped the worn cables and housing, the hoods started falling apart as soon as I touched them. The bar tape and toe straps likewise need replacing. At least one of the jockey wheels is broken so it’s worth changing both. Luckily all of the components seem to be in good working order otherwise. The plan is to give everything a good clean, overhaul and get it running again without changing much. I’m not into tubulars so I’m debating building up a different set of wheels but maybe it’s worth giving a shot?
A few questions for the more well informed:
1 - Where could I find good repro globe logo hoods?
2 - Same question but jockey wheels and brake pads. (I may go with modern pads/holders for ease of setup/use)
3 - Would it be sinful to spread the dropouts to 126 for 7-spd freewheel options? This would also mean finding a rear hub.




(More photos to come as cleaning and restoration proceeds)
But I, too, cast my vote against modifying this frame.
#25
Newbie