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C & V pet peeves!!

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C & V pet peeves!!

Old 11-18-22, 05:56 AM
  #151  
smd4
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Originally Posted by Chuck M View Post
I fixed a flat tonight on the bike I hope to ride tomorrow and after airing it up, I noticed that the label isn't aligned with the valve stem. I'm only slightly peeved though. A bourbon neat should fix that. The peeving that is, not the label.
More importantly, is the label on the drive side?
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Old 11-18-22, 06:57 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by smd4 View Post
More importantly, is the label on the drive side?
Yes. It is a directional tire and I would almost definitely probably very likely for sure remove it for that. But I just wasn't in the mood to deflate a tire I just mounted to position the label with the stem. That would have been a waste of air and waste is a peeve of mine.
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Old 11-18-22, 07:34 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by styggno1 View Post
Brilliant use of a trainer, I'll have to copy that.

So, as a very casual rider and wrencher I really shouldn't contribute here in the first place, and apologies if it's come up already (it's a long thread by now), but I hate bike computers. Even period-correct ones, no, especially period-correct ones, with the sensor wire coiled around the brake cable, looking like a CB radio microphone. Gawd that's ugly.
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Old 11-18-22, 07:54 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by EVlove View Post
So, as a very casual rider and wrencher I really shouldn't contribute here in the first place, and apologies if it's come up already (it's a long thread by now), but I hate bike computers. Even period-correct ones, no, especially period-correct ones, with the sensor wire coiled around the brake cable, looking like a CB radio microphone. Gawd that's ugly.
I'm also not a fan of the computer wires, which is why I bought a basic Garmin. It's only a little bigger than a regular bike computer, but no wires or sensors to clutter things up. If you really want to keep the vintage look, you can hide it in a pocket and it still records your ride.
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Old 11-18-22, 08:37 AM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by smd4 View Post
More importantly, is the label on the drive side?
That's not always possible. I recently put a Continental TourRide (700x42) on my back wheel, and it drove me nuts for about 10 minutes, because it's definitely directional, with an arrow, but the label ends up on the NDS. 🤔

I finally said why worry, the tire's fine. 😁
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Old 11-18-22, 09:05 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by Pompiere View Post
I'm also not a fan of the computer wires, which is why I bought a basic Garmin. It's only a little bigger than a regular bike computer, but no wires or sensors to clutter things up. If you really want to keep the vintage look, you can hide it in a pocket and it still records your ride.
Most of the time I don't even remember to start the speedometer app on my watch. (And I would literally rather not ride than have my every move recorded on Strava.) It's just not relevant to me. Speed is dictated by circumstances on the road/trail and by how I feel. Like I said, very casual over here.
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Old 11-18-22, 11:57 AM
  #157  
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Weenie worlds. LBS's that don't respect the classics, They'd faint if you rolled your vintage Schwinn or Raleigh in and asked for parts.
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Old 11-18-22, 12:21 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I was trained to set bikes up the way Italian racers did. My boss was persnickety. So am I by nature, and I try to beat back that tendency.

A couple of years ago, I was setting up a bike for myself, and my intuition told me to rotate the bars back a bit. OK, a bit better. Then I tipped them back a bit more, and oh my goodness, I'm in heaven, why did it take me so long? It looks bad and feels good. I'm leaving it this way.
When the bike gets comfortable you know you're doing it right.
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Old 12-09-22, 03:40 PM
  #159  
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Pet peeves? Hmmm...

sloping crowns --> clunky

most standard quill stems --> neuter weapon, and flexy

dead horizontal top tubes --> lack of clearance for the boys, and boring

friction (non-indexed) shifting --> hunting around for the right gear

shellacing handlebars --> hello, changing handlebars?

drop bar ends flat with ground --> puts brakes a mile out in front

some others, while I'm at it...

lug lining --> most lugs brazed poorly, so highlighting bad workmanship

tubulars --> hassle, $$$, getting rolled or welded to rim

steel --> it rusts


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Old 12-10-22, 02:36 AM
  #160  
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Rusty allen RD hanger bolts, the socket the wrench goes in.

We spend countless hours and $$$$$ turning these into works of art only to soil the outcome by leaving a rusty eyesore right there at an apex focal point.

Yes it can be a PITA to mitigate, yes I am guilty of it too but come on, at least squirt it with PB, circle back later and scrub it out with something and close the deal.

And while we're at it, screw the RDO screws all the way in or take them out of any and all bare frames, especially for shipping, again.
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Old 12-10-22, 03:21 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Rusty allen RD hanger bolts, the socket the wrench goes in.

We spend countless hours and $$$$$ turning these into works of art only to soil the outcome by leaving a rusty eyesore right there at an apex focal point.

Yes it can be a PITA to mitigate, yes I am guilty of it too but come on, at least squirt it with PB, circle back later and scrub it out with something and close the deal.

And while we're at it, screw the RDO screws all the way in or take them out of any and all bare frames, especially for shipping, again.

I wonder if a couple drops of evaporust w/ a piece of tape over those little allen bolt heads would do the trick. I have a few (dozen) I can experiment with.
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Old 12-10-22, 03:46 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO View Post
I wonder if a couple drops of evaporust w/ a piece of tape over those little allen bolt heads would do the trick. I have a few (dozen) I can experiment with.
Maybe, it can be pretty stubborn and IME just like any part, Evapo will work faster and better if you knock down the rust before it.

I usually PB, scrub with brass or SS brush and strip with brake or carb clean then soak.

Some things seem to stain if it has to work to hard on the rust or results are lackluster if the rust is bad.

They have gel that stays put but it takes a long time to work.
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Old 12-10-22, 04:29 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by Robvolz View Post


What's yours?
pneumatic tires, chain drives, "safety" bicycle topology. Are you men or are you mice?
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Old 12-10-22, 04:55 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Rusty allen RD hanger bolts, the socket the wrench goes in.

We spend countless hours and $$$$$ turning these into works of art only to soil the outcome by leaving a rusty eyesore right there at an apex focal point.
Swap out the steel bolt for aluminum or titanium.
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