Peugeot PX-10(?) crank question
11-26-22, 08:25 AM
#26
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Thread Starter
Ok, well it sounds like none of this should be surprising and maybe the problems we usually see with these were encountered years ago, some by you and may have been at least partially if not mostly mitigated at the time.
That being said it also sounds like some of the fallout is revisiting now and you are managing to wrangle it yet again.
We really like to dig into this exact thing as you can tell but we usually need more blow by blow to keep up.
it would have been nice to have these gory details going in as we could have dispensed with our standard tack that usually applies 90% of the time.
Glad you seem to have gotten the best of it again and hope it gets you down the road.
That being said it also sounds like some of the fallout is revisiting now and you are managing to wrangle it yet again.
We really like to dig into this exact thing as you can tell but we usually need more blow by blow to keep up.
it would have been nice to have these gory details going in as we could have dispensed with our standard tack that usually applies 90% of the time.
Glad you seem to have gotten the best of it again and hope it gets you down the road.
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11-26-22, 08:30 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
The pedal came off the non drive side (left) crank arm because it is modern and compatible with your pedals. The drive side original crank arm is likely French and the pedal you forced on did not have matching threads. Also that replaced crank arm does not match the spindle axle thing and goes on too far. Stick with it. We learn as we go. A PX-10 is a nice place to start. You will have a very nice rider eventually.
link to other thread with a picture: New guy with an old Pueugot
link to other thread with a picture: New guy with an old Pueugot
Thanks for the info on the pedal, hope I won't have to replace the whole crank arm/sprocket assembly. :-)
11-26-22, 11:52 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
Well, the oven trick worked. I soaked the assembly for an hour at 200F, and it was still reeeeally tight but the old pedal came off ok.
It's interesting. Nothing is cross-threaded or stripped, but it is just really really tight. To the point where I'm slightly nervous about putting the new pedal in- it feels just as tight. Don't want to damage anything, but I guess I got the old one in there without hurting anything...
It's interesting. Nothing is cross-threaded or stripped, but it is just really really tight. To the point where I'm slightly nervous about putting the new pedal in- it feels just as tight. Don't want to damage anything, but I guess I got the old one in there without hurting anything...
11-26-22, 01:09 PM
#29
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You might chase the pedal arm threads with a tap.
11-26-22, 03:18 PM
#30
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Well, the oven trick worked. I soaked the assembly for an hour at 200F, and it was still reeeeally tight but the old pedal came off ok.
It's interesting. Nothing is cross-threaded or stripped, but it is just really really tight. To the point where I'm slightly nervous about putting the new pedal in- it feels just as tight. Don't want to damage anything, but I guess I got the old one in there without hurting anything...
It's interesting. Nothing is cross-threaded or stripped, but it is just really really tight. To the point where I'm slightly nervous about putting the new pedal in- it feels just as tight. Don't want to damage anything, but I guess I got the old one in there without hurting anything...
I use anti seize for chasing.
You can use a small triangle file or a small cutoff wheel in a Dremel or the like to cut the slots, spindles are hard so a file is harder to do.
Clamp the spindle in a vise and carefully get the crank started squarely and have at it, one step forward, 2 steps back , don't rush and Bobs your uncle.
11-26-22, 05:07 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
You can make a thread chaser out of a scrap pedal spindle if you strip it out of the pedal and cut/file some slots in it, just make sure it matches the pedal you are going to use and proceed with caution if the crank is hard to chase.
I use anti seize for chasing.
You can use a small triangle file or a small cutoff wheel in a Dremel or the like to cut the slots, spindles are hard so a file is harder to do.
Clamp the spindle in a vise and carefully get the crank started squarely and have at it, one step forward, 2 steps back , don't rush and Bobs your uncle.
I use anti seize for chasing.
You can use a small triangle file or a small cutoff wheel in a Dremel or the like to cut the slots, spindles are hard so a file is harder to do.
Clamp the spindle in a vise and carefully get the crank started squarely and have at it, one step forward, 2 steps back , don't rush and Bobs your uncle.
11-26-22, 05:25 PM
#32
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Yep, but not a tap, chaser, big difference, they can work to change from French to standard but its tricky and in any case can be a challenge to keep get it started square and sometimes keep it so.Remember, 1 step forward, 2 steps back or it can get off track.
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12-22-22, 11:31 AM
#33
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Really appreciate everyone's help. I did this very thing, creating a thread chaser out of the old pedal and clearing out the threads for the new pedal. Worked like a charm. Thanks for that clever idea!
Had my first commute on the bike since all of this work this morning (been a busy month!) The mechanism crank is sooo much better and quieter. Hard to believe I've been riding the old way for so many years.
Now I just need to get used to those clip in pedals - at one stop this morning I had trouble getting my foot out of the clip and toppled right over :-D
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12-22-22, 12:11 PM
#34
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If you're ever needing to apply big torque to one of the old, 38mm, eight-sided Stronglight fixed cups, know that a 1-1/2" twelve-point socket works really well in conjunction with a 1/2" breaker bar.
This got a stuck cup out of a fine 1950's Cattaneo-built, private-label Urago frame not too long ago.
Such sockets are often hoarded at pawn shops in their big buckets of sockets, might cost only a few dollars like mine did.
Be sure to reduce any deep bevel at the socket's 12-point opening, grind it flat if you can.
This got a stuck cup out of a fine 1950's Cattaneo-built, private-label Urago frame not too long ago.
Such sockets are often hoarded at pawn shops in their big buckets of sockets, might cost only a few dollars like mine did.
Be sure to reduce any deep bevel at the socket's 12-point opening, grind it flat if you can.
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12-22-22, 01:08 PM
#35
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Wow, guess I never followed up back here. Sorry about that.
Really appreciate everyone's help. I did this very thing, creating a thread chaser out of the old pedal and clearing out the threads for the new pedal. Worked like a charm. Thanks for that clever idea!
Had my first commute on the bike since all of this work this morning (been a busy month!) The mechanism crank is sooo much better and quieter. Hard to believe I've been riding the old way for so many years.
Now I just need to get used to those clip in pedals - at one stop this morning I had trouble getting my foot out of the clip and toppled right over :-D
Really appreciate everyone's help. I did this very thing, creating a thread chaser out of the old pedal and clearing out the threads for the new pedal. Worked like a charm. Thanks for that clever idea!
Had my first commute on the bike since all of this work this morning (been a busy month!) The mechanism crank is sooo much better and quieter. Hard to believe I've been riding the old way for so many years.
Now I just need to get used to those clip in pedals - at one stop this morning I had trouble getting my foot out of the clip and toppled right over :-D
Glad it worked out and you're on the road.
Loosen the release on the clips just a bit till you get the hang of it, when you start clipping out more than struggling, tighten them back up.
AND, pics or it didn't happen.
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12-22-22, 01:36 PM
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On the off chance OP is using clipless pedals, same advice except set the release to minimum until you get the hang of it.
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12-23-22, 06:54 PM
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Once you get the hang of clipless you won't go back to clips & straps!
What's the story with the NDS crank arm....?
What's the story with the NDS crank arm....?
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12-23-22, 11:14 PM
#40
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12-23-22, 11:30 PM
#41
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Ah, gotcha. Lolbut
It's likely that I replaced that crank arm myself, but honestly, I don't remember why or when; I've had the bike for 20 years or so, although only in the last few am I riding more and getting it cleaned up and running better.
(Before that it was my dad's and I doubt he remembers if/why he replaced it either haha.)
It's likely that I replaced that crank arm myself, but honestly, I don't remember why or when; I've had the bike for 20 years or so, although only in the last few am I riding more and getting it cleaned up and running better.
(Before that it was my dad's and I doubt he remembers if/why he replaced it either haha.)
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