Roypercy

I just picked up a '74 Raleigh Competition with the original GB quill stem. It's set 1"-2" too low for me, so I need to raise it or replace it. I just loosened everything that looked like it needed to be loosened, and nothing. Won't budge at all. I was only working with my hands, and was being careful not to put torque on the front fork.

What am I missing? How can I get this thing loose?

repechage

What I did not read was unwinding the quill bolt 4 turns (so still engaged) and tapping it down with a hardwood block and a hammer.
That should free the expander.
Then, without too much trouble the stem should move.
If it does not then... Kroil it. and wait for a few days.

Roypercy

that worked! Thanks a million

merziac

bulgie 

I don't believe you since you didn't add a picture (POIDH)
Kidding, but I would like to see what you call too low. Most old stems cannot be raised by 2", or even 1", because that won't leave enough stem down in the fork.

Newer stems have a stamped-in minimum insertion line, but your GB almost certainly does not. So it's recommended that you measure about 6 cm up from the bottom and draw one on yourself, say with a Sharpie, and then don't raise the stem above that line.

Different authorities differ on where that line should be, with some more conservative saying more like 7 cm from the bottom. Even that is not a guarantee you won't have problems, but it's safer than raising it higher than that.

Ideally you'd also take the fork out to see how many threads they left you with. The cone at the bottom of the stem really should be tightening in the unthreaded part of the steerer, and some forks with too many threads require the stem to be rather low. This is close to criminal negligence on the part of the bike maker IMHO but it's depressingly common. Requiring the user to diassemble the headset to see if they did their job right should be a hangin' offense (OK calm down there Mark!). A nice feature of threadless steerers! Though I'm still a fan of threaded steerers with quill stems, they need to be done right.

If you really want the bars 2" higher (and there's nothing wrong with that), then you'll need a stem with a longer quill, like a Technomic, or else one with an angled-up extension. Or get a bigger frame that puts the bars higher with a traditional stem.

EDIT: I forgot to mention handlebar options. Some randonneur handlebars have an upsweep that puts your hands 1 cm or so higher, can be enough for some bikes that are close to tall enough. And then there's the swept-back touring bars that can have tons of rise, though switching from drop bars really changes the character of the bike, and brake levers have to be changed too.

Mark B

Roypercy

Here’s a pic of how it looked when I bought it. To me the stem looks low even for vintage. But thanks for the good advice; I’ll definitely pull the stem and check how much I’ve got before I ride on it. Any idea what the stem diameter would be in case I decide to get a replacement?

bulgie 

Yeah that frame looks too small for you, by my standards. Lots of racers like such an extreme saddle-to-bar height difference, but few non-racers do. If you want to keep that frame but get the bars up, say level with the saddle or only a little below it, you'll need to replace the stem.

Definitely 7/8" (22.2 mm). Unless you mean the handlebar clamp diameter, which is 1" (25.4 mm)

These are common dimensions for quill stems, except a lot of newer and/or fancier ones might have a larger handlebar clamp, for example 26.0 mm (though there are other sizes as well).
If you get, say, a Technomic, those come in both 25.4 and 26.0 clamp diameters, so just order the right one.

-mb

Roypercy

the frame is fine, actually at 23 1/2” right at the top of what I can ride. That seat height was where it was set when I bought it; I guess the previous owner was taller than me and really liked riding in the drops. I put my own saddle on today and lowered the seat post somewhat, to the classic “fistful of seatpost” level, but I prefer to have the handlebars more or less level with the seat

gugie 

@bulgie, that pic was as purchased.

Roy, consider purchasing a modern, taller stem to get your bars level with the saddle. Nitto Technomics are the "go to" tall stem, SOMA sells one nearly as tall. Make sure the stem ID matches the handlebar OD.

Since most C&V bike rider are a bit V themselves, bending over in the racer position of our youth is too much for our older, stiffer bodies.

Soody

Oldschool bikes are mostly setup for riding in the drops. I would also look to change that bar to one with a more modern geometry that gives you a better hoods position, and has a less extreme reach.
I like this style: Lever butts against a line through the bottom of the drops. They are perpendicular to that line. Bar can be tilted up as far as still gives good braking from the drops without straining your wrist, usually between parallel to the ground and pointing at the rear brake.
And get a taller stem. High bars is a noble pursuit. You're not even necessarily making your bike less aggressive if you consider how many road setups people never touch the drops on.

Soody

Absolutely beautiful bike btw. I love those satanic cranks.

bulgie 

Ah gotcha, sorry about my lapse in logic and/or reading comprehension. I guess I meant the frame was too small for whoever the seat height was set for. Unless he liked it that way!

Have you tried marking a safe height on the existing stem and raising it to the max — maybe it's tall enough for you? It can go up some from that as-bought pic. I have a preference for keeping a classic bike that original, tho of course safety, fit and comfort outweigh that. Only keep the original stem if it'll adjust to your preferred height safely. Maybe I'm belaboring the obvious.

Cool bike, let us know how it turns out.

Mark B

Pompiere

The Soma Sutro stem is about 20 mm taller than a normal stem. On my bikes, a Sutro is just right to bring the bars up level with saddle and doesn't look out of proportion. The Nitto Technomic is about 40 mm taller than a normal stem. I have a Technomic, but it is really tall and looks funny, which is why it is currently in the parts bin.