Show me something interesting....
12-12-22, 07:13 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
What bike is that on? I've seen it on a Casati and it took me quite a while to even realize what was going on.
Front derailleur cable exits from an opening just below where the FD clamp is expected to be.
It doesn't look like I have a good picture of the RD exit port - it's a brazed, chromed tube coming out of the chainstay just to the right of where this pic is cropped.
Also milled dropouts as the Olympia shown by Drillium Dude and also the same end-treatment of the stay tubing (but different handling of the RD cable routing). I wonder if that came from the same contract builder?
There is a circled "MB" on the bottom of the BB shell on mine that should tell who built it (Biemmezeta? Billato?), but I don't know that I ever figured that out.
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12-12-22, 08:43 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by merziac
Did you run a fish wire with/for them?
I have a Merz that has some long ago trashed and abandoned internal cabling that would be cool to fix, likely way above my pay grade but I do think about it and wonder. 
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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12-12-22, 10:34 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by scarlson
I did not. Just pre-bent the tubing and jammed it through. Takes a few tries to get the bend right, and for something really tricky like a fork, sometimes takes a bit of planning to first bend it and then put it in and then push on it and it'll bend some more to get it through. For the fork, I first brazed the dropout, then inserted the tubing into the forkblade before I brazed the crown on, and it was still pretty hard to do! A wire wouldn't stand a chance in there, and would probably get all mangled up. If I used copper tubing, I bet it would be easier, but I used stainless because that's what I found for free in the trash and I reckon getting the right diameter copper would cost a pretty penny from some industrial supply house.
What's messed up about the internal cabling? Just curious. It may be easier to fix than you think. Some deburring and unkinking maybe?
What's messed up about the internal cabling? Just curious. It may be easier to fix than you think. Some deburring and unkinking maybe?
This frame also has a very odd square channel in the underside of the TT for the rear brake cable, not very elegant and Jim said he doesn't remember what he he did for it.
I meant if you ran a mechanics like wire inside the tubing to help keep it from kinking and maybe even help steer it some.
12-13-22, 05:31 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by cheffyjay
There is lots of odd on this bike but the Control Tech cantilevers were an odd solution to a perhaps nonexistent problem. All of the spring is in the straddle 'cable':
Mid 90s mountain biking was full of CNC milled solutions like that.
Mid 90s mountain biking was full of CNC milled solutions like that.
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12-13-22, 10:29 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by merziac
I meant if you ran a mechanics like wire inside the tubing to help keep it from kinking and maybe even help steer it some.
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
12-13-22, 12:23 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by scarlson
Yeah, that might be helpful with copper tubing! Which is what I should use! The stainless I had on-hand was so rigid that it had no problems steering. Just real problems getting it bent to the right shape that it wouldn't have too much friction inside the tube, but still had enough bend to get out, since I can't really bend it after it's inside the frame tube. It's hard to explain even now, without the bike in front of me to demonstrate. Copper and mechanic's wire may have been much easier, but I was in a "run what you brung" sorta mood when I was doing those things, having exceeded all budgetary and time constraints already and just needing to get the job done.
Often to my detriment, and success.
"run what ya brung", I drag raced mc's for 30 years, what I brung was whoop azz, oldschool Kawi brute force and did pretty good.
Last edited by merziac; 12-13-22 at 12:32 PM.
12-13-22, 06:13 PM
#32
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Headtube/Downtube junction reinforcement gusset on my 1991 Fat City Wicked Fat Chance:
Seat quick release retaining ring and seat tube reinforcing gusset, also on the 91 Wicked Fat:
Seat quick release retaining ring and seat tube reinforcing gusset, also on the 91 Wicked Fat:
12-13-22, 11:17 PM
#33
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How often do you see a pantographed chainstay and cutouts on the BB lug where the chainstay attaches?
12-14-22, 09:05 AM
#34
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Bianchi1971IntegratedHeadset on FlickrThis surprised me as I hadn't known about this approach before. Beefy BB Shell on the Pinarello Montello - SLX
P1020153 on FlickrA De Rosa version - Another SLX frameset
DeRosaProBBCluster on FlickrPInarello Veneto(?) flush mounted bottle cage mounts.
P1000955 on Flickr
P1030827 on FlickrBB and seat clusters are always interesting to me. Treks approach with the socketed stays combined with the binder bolt stands out for me. Screams cost reduction but still on a higher end bike, 760.
WP_20141102_005 on FlickrBrake bridges are another feature of interest along with CS bridges. Much fewer variations on head tube construction.
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12-14-22, 09:28 AM
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how about a Serotta road bike with a rear suspension designed by Dave Kirk?
The seat stays are curved, not unlike a Hetchins Vibrant, but has a pivot at the point where it joins the dropouts. This allows the the stay to flex and rotate at the dropout.
It even includes some elastomer attached to the stays, to damp the motion. Pretty novel, and much more functional than the Hetchins curved stays (but not as good looking.
)
Steve in Peoria
The seat stays are curved, not unlike a Hetchins Vibrant, but has a pivot at the point where it joins the dropouts. This allows the the stay to flex and rotate at the dropout.
It even includes some elastomer attached to the stays, to damp the motion. Pretty novel, and much more functional than the Hetchins curved stays (but not as good looking.
)Steve in Peoria
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12-14-22, 09:55 AM
#36
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1959 Hugo Rickert touring.
Rollers on top of BB for ‘smoother’ RD & FD shifting.
Rollers on top of BB for ‘smoother’ RD & FD shifting.
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12-14-22, 10:54 AM
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I always thought the Shimano hidden-bolt stems (Dura Ace and 600) were very interesting.
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12-14-22, 11:02 AM
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since unusual derailleurs are a popular topic nowadays, how about this SunTour Superbe Tech derailleur? Tired of dealing with the hassle of a parallelogram collecting dirt and needing lubrication? Well, just replace it with a metal band around around a spool/pulley at each end! Nothing to ever go wrong! ... or at least that must have been what they were thinking??
It does look nice and tidy, though.
Steve in Peoria
It does look nice and tidy, though.
Steve in Peoria
12-14-22, 11:57 AM
#39
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Demountable space frame, front and rear suspension, proprietary 17" wheels. Owner/fan clubs worldwide, in production for 40 years, detested & derided by Jan Heine, it's the Alex Moulton AM:
12-14-22, 04:53 PM
#40
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This will pale in comparison but… teardrop shaped down tube on my 1997 KHS Summit X:
12-26-22, 12:03 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Aquired an 80's steel Trek this summer (sorry state, but very rescuable), first Trek I've owned. Not exactly an oh, wow feature, but I though the minimalist chain hanger integrated into the dropout was kind of nifty....
(I know, I know.....blurry photo)
(I know, I know.....blurry photo
)
chain-holder-nob
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12-28-22, 07:49 PM
#45
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Where should I start on this one? Like a good film, even if you are not interested for first sight, the more you see the more things you notice....
a bit more eye candy...
shuriken bosses on a Japanese build.... BADA55
a bit more eye candy...
shuriken bosses on a Japanese build.... BADA55
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12-28-22, 08:50 PM
#46
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Not C&V, but I always found this interesting:
12-28-22, 09:05 PM
#47
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Landing on Mars. Or kitchen table. The french should design spacecraft.
Last edited by clubman; 12-28-22 at 09:10 PM.
12-29-22, 06:53 AM
#48
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This isn't the pic I wanted to post, but some may find this interesting. I've thought about buying this kit but it's spendy and you don't use it much. It's a Stien tools kit for retapping crank arm threads oversize to 23mm and then you install a self extractor
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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12-29-22, 11:28 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by Lattz
Brent
12-29-22, 11:47 AM
#50
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Originally Posted by obrentharris
Wow! What bike is this? Where can I find more information about the bike and the builder?
Brent
Brent
https://www.flickr.com/photos/11521783@N05/albums
