Circa 1973 Colnago - what to do?
#51
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@VRJAKE - I'm sure you're already inundated with advice in this thread for your beautiful new find, but if I may suggest a variation: As soon as you're confident in the brake and shifter cables and adjustments, throw a set of spare 700C clinchers on it if you have a pair (with an appropriately spaced rear hub). This is the quickest and easiest way to give her a spin as-is. I know others advised similar - wisely so - but if you happen to have a spare set on another well-loved frameset, this is a great way to try it, as is, without investing too much - and on a wheelset you already know you like.
Also, though I can't speak for the mechanical reputation of the first-gen Phil hubs, second-gen Phil hubs would be a nice upgrade while retaining a nod to the frame's past build. Plus, they won't rust their centers out - it'll save you the effort of trying to clean those up. The rust on those stainless centers can be very...tenacious.
-Kurt
Also, though I can't speak for the mechanical reputation of the first-gen Phil hubs, second-gen Phil hubs would be a nice upgrade while retaining a nod to the frame's past build. Plus, they won't rust their centers out - it'll save you the effort of trying to clean those up. The rust on those stainless centers can be very...tenacious.

-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 12-24-22 at 10:58 PM.
#52
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And then someone built it up with Phil Wood hubs, Look pedals, and other bits that weren't original.
Nope (they don't call me the Bike Butcher of Portland for nuthin). With the proper tools you can cold set pretty much any vintage steel frame - I'd stay away from the more modern "super metals." Stay bridges that break when doing this weren't brazed properly. I had a repair this last year that was clearly not fully brazed all the way around on both the chain and brake bridges - but that's rare.
But just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. The OP has several other bikes he can ride up the steep mountains in the PNW, this one would be nice to keep with the components of that vintage, and a vintage Nag that has anything but Campy NR on it just wouldn't feel right.
But just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. The OP has several other bikes he can ride up the steep mountains in the PNW, this one would be nice to keep with the components of that vintage, and a vintage Nag that has anything but Campy NR on it just wouldn't feel right.
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#53
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With the proper tools you can cold set pretty much any vintage steel frame - I'd stay away from the more modern "super metals." Stay bridges that break when doing this weren't brazed properly. I had a repair this last year that was clearly not fully brazed all the way around on both the chain and brake bridges - but that's rare.
Granted, if one's worried about brake bridges popping off, a soft-jaw clamp in that area between the stays could give some peace of mind. Keep in mind that there probably will be some bowing of the stays from this point down to accommodate the wider spacing.
Here's an extreme example on my '80 Raleigh Sports - keep in mind this is mild steel and the frame went from 110 to 135mm. It's even more pronounced as the stays aren't evenly bent because the brake bridge wasn't particularly straight from factory, and I was more interested in proper operation than perfectly even stays, so long as they were centered.

It's not entirely obvious when built up - unless you happen to be looking for it:

-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 12-25-22 at 10:27 AM.
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#54
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Hey all, thanks for pitching in with many great ideas - for this bike, will retain period originality - there are better candidates for modernizing. And thanks for the grand pics of your Super's for examples. Will definitely clean and overhaul everything before riding - it wasn't ridable as is, shot tires, brake cables disconnected, tri bars, dried out grease in the drive train.
Thoughts to complete the build, perhaps two ways:
1. Stock period: Campagnolo Record/Nuovo Record, clincher wheels with low flange hubs, Cinelli 1A/CdM and Unicanitor, cloth tape.
2. Hot rod/weight weenie in period... I've some Cobra, Arnold Industries and other alloy bits, Campagnolo SL track pedals, Weyless post, perhaps build Weyless hubs to tubular rims, Mathauser brake pads, etc.
Thoughts to complete the build, perhaps two ways:
1. Stock period: Campagnolo Record/Nuovo Record, clincher wheels with low flange hubs, Cinelli 1A/CdM and Unicanitor, cloth tape.
2. Hot rod/weight weenie in period... I've some Cobra, Arnold Industries and other alloy bits, Campagnolo SL track pedals, Weyless post, perhaps build Weyless hubs to tubular rims, Mathauser brake pads, etc.

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#55
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I have several sets of 120mm spaced campy hub wheels, laced up, glued up, lubed up and ready to loan or roll.
pm me, I'm in your area.
pm me, I'm in your area.
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Last edited by Robvolz; 12-25-22 at 12:58 PM.
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Thoughts to complete the build, perhaps two ways:
1. Stock period: Campagnolo Record/Nuovo Record, clincher wheels with low flange hubs, Cinelli 1A/CdM and Unicanitor, cloth tape.
2. Hot rod/weight weenie in period... I've some Cobra, Arnold Industries and other alloy bits, Campagnolo SL track pedals, Weyless post, perhaps build Weyless hubs to tubular rims, Mathauser brake pads, etc.
1. Stock period: Campagnolo Record/Nuovo Record, clincher wheels with low flange hubs, Cinelli 1A/CdM and Unicanitor, cloth tape.
2. Hot rod/weight weenie in period... I've some Cobra, Arnold Industries and other alloy bits, Campagnolo SL track pedals, Weyless post, perhaps build Weyless hubs to tubular rims, Mathauser brake pads, etc.
Given the choice and the access to the parts, I'd dare to be different and showcase all those fantastic, less-seen bits. Don't forget an OMAS "convert-every-fitting-to-aluminum-and-pray-the-threads-hold kit.

-Kurt
#58
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