VRJAKE 

Opinions wanted. What to do? Just got this circa. 1973 Colnago in original finish. Some parts replaced (trip-bars!), some trash (rusty Phil hubs with rusty spokes to beat tubular rims). It's a bit rough though - frame is sound, aligned, threads good, no dents, no serious rust, parts came off quite easily. But the paint is faded in some areas, lots of chips and scratches. I WANT TO RIDE IT like crazy.

As is, it'll never be pristine, but it's original finish and all decals are all there though some chipped. So from the frame up, how to equip it?
Should it be built as a patinated period Campagnolo Record racer and ride it in Eroica?
Should it be built with more functional stuff, like Shimano/Suntour/etc. with lower gearing as just a fun kick-around bike?
Should it be built with pretty Campagnolo Record parts?

BFisher 

Your call, really. Doesn't look too bad from those photos. Personally, I'd clean it up, address those wheels, all bearings, and consumables, put a nice drop bar on it, and ride it. Mine rides like a dream. If I only ever got down to one bike, it'd be my Super.

Good luck with it.

Andy_K 

I think that's the keystone right there. Replace what you need to replace to get it on the road then let the bike tell you what it needs.

I would hold off on cleaning anything that doesn't need to be cleaned for function. As soon as you touch that frame with polish you've cut yourself off from the full patina route. It does look like it could clean up pretty nicely, but you need to figure out if you want it clean, right? I've got a Gios with a thick layer of patina on it. I made the mistake of trying to rub off some dirt from the head tube and I almost had to polish the whole thing. You don't want a patina bike with one bright clean spot.

Of course, if it were me I'd put 3x10 Campy stuff on there with new wheels, but that's my own particular pathology.

I would definitely try to save the hubs. They look awful now, but who knows what might be possible.

VRJAKE 

Interesting points. The condition of the paint is worse than shown in pics, looks good from 20 feet... Have fully disassembled it. Drivetrain has thick grime and I like a very clean ride, a bit OCD on that. But hear you on preserving the patina. The paint under the front derailleur clamp looks great, but not faded like the rest of the frame, I'll thoroughly but gently clean it so the layer of grime is removed, but will test polish inconspicuous areas to see what happens. Some areas are faded, not sure if from sun, sweat, wear, I don't think there is a clear coat on this era of Colnago.

Understand I can do what I want with it, but just looking for different perspectives, some fun discussion and debate.



Clean calipers, but GS, not Record. HS is super smooth, though some chrome has flaked off.

BB Shell is caked with grime. Cranks and Phil BB came out easily, as did all the components.

Derailleur is caked with grime inside the parallelogram and around the jockey wheels. Dropout screws came out easily!

repechage

Repack the BB and headset
I would return to toe clips and straps.
polish the paint- I have two from this era- the paint behaves differently - I equate it to MBZ auto paint- softer clear than others-
the paint has scratches and chips, but I have seen worse.
I bought one with Phil hubs- go Record Campagnolo, low or high flange.
trade out those brakes for Campagnolo regular reach Record calipers. Wonder who that curious mechanic was that assembled the front caliper adjuster wrong... GS brakes?!? Go Record.
rebuild the shifters, R&R the seatpost.

they are fun bikes to use.

"My name is Ernesto, I am Colnago"

repechage

clearcoat was variable. Some did, some did not. Best check is at the chrome fork crown

kunsunoke 

1) Repack headset
2) Repack BB
3) Replace cables if necessary
4) Swap the bars for Cinelli non-tourist types; wrap with Benelli or Neubaum's.
5) Get a seat you can tolerate
6) Clean the frame and fork
7) Clean the mechs, brakes, brake levers
8) Pull and lube the stem and seat post
9) Examine Phil hubs for bearing wear. They may be rare enough to refurbish if the bearings are shot - https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/pages/contact-us
10) Check the wheels for run-out and true them (or have them trued)
11) Purchase and mount some new tubular tires - such as Tufo S33s, or Continental Sprinters - or ask Santa to bring you some Veloflex under the tree this year

nlerner

1) Pull off Campy bits.
2) Resell piece by piece on eBay.
3) Use proceeds to buy a Sensah 11-speed group on AliExpress.
4) Pocket extra cash and ride the cr*p out of it.

repechage

always a sensable one.
real old guys don't need index shifting and a silly number of cogs.

one needs nut fixation brakes for this frame.
Tekros...? Don't go visiting Ernesto or Valentino.

bikingshearer 

Bingo. /thread.

This is a good strategy with any new acquisition. Get it into riding condition and ride it for a few months, long enough for the "it's new" excitement to wear off and allow you to live with it and make an informed decision about whether you really want to keep it. If so (and that is the most likely outcome - the Colnago rep didn't come from nowhere), then you can go about gathering the stuff you really want for it, all the while enjoying the heck out of fit. If not, sell it, and no harm done.

Nice score, by the way.

nlerner

Wait, are you calling @VRJAKE a very old man? I’ve ridden with him several times now, and can report that the “very” is downright excessive.

Two words (one repeated): Drill, baby, drill!

VRJAKE 

NO! On a Raleigh, YES, got a Competition to mangle, but on one of Italy's finest, NO!

bikemike73 

It's only original ONCE


Clean parts and lube


Then ride 😁😁😁🚲🚴‍♀️🚵‍♂️🚵‍♂️

Great score !!!!

Robvolz 

Was that bike in portland?

did he ever go down in price?

repechage

Just saw the images on a bigger screen, a cartridge bottom bracket?

when Shimano 7400 index arrived we called it Sissy shifting.
of course, just like manual transmissions on cars, the take rate is very low.
thank goodness for Gordon Murray Automotive.

gearbasher

Clean it up and get rid of those bars.

fender1

Cold set to 135
Shimano Acera 9 speed "Gruppo"
650 a Wheels with Tannus Solid tires
Store in basement and post lots of conversion pics on the internet

63rickert

Look like early Phil hubs. Test them. If early they all had freeplay/bearing shake. Came with index card in the box saying .003"-- 004" play at rim was normal. There were ways to adjust out that play but don't bother yourself. Keep as a curiousity or just bin them. If a few years later they became great. If you can find a way to clean them up. That's more than patina on the hub.

1973 was right on cusp of small flange/large flange Campy hubs. Either would be correct. 1973 would also be just about the last time you might find old stock hubs just sitting on shelf at an LBS. Hubs from a couple years earlier would be fine.

'73 Colnago would wear tubulars. The old frame has plenty of clearance for currently fashionable 700x28. There were a few of us in '73 who resisted the then new fashion for stupid narrow.

Beautiful bike. My wife has the twin in red.

VRJAKE 

Made a local deal here in Portland. Nice man on the cusp of a big move, needing to pass along a lot of things, including multiple bikes - Bianchi, Campy equipped Univega, multiple Mondia's. Wish him well.

VRJAKE 

Few findings:

• Early Phil hubs. Bearings are smooth, barrels are hopelessly rusty. Can arrest the rust but won't improve the look much. Cut the spokes out, on rear wheel all were very rusty, the front used straight gauge stainless. One rim Fiamme Yellow the other Ergal. Anyone want 'em? Between me and a pal, we have numerous good condition vintage tubular rims to pass along.
• BB is also Phil. Bearings smooth but feel less than fully tight, a careful regreassing may prolong the life of it, no harm to use it.
• One of those good finds where the grime preserved components, prevented significant rust. A pain in the neck to clean however. But one of those finds where the refurb will come out wonderfully.
• Whomever put the parts on did a fine job greasing threads, etc. All came apart with modest effort due to dried out grease. Even dropout screws turned easily. HS spins like a new one just installed.
• Saddle is a Cinelli Unicanitor - suspect it was suede which is all matted smooth now.
• Oh those aero bars held by a Cinelli 1A that is horribly engraved with someone's name. Early Dura Ace levers held on with Campagnolo clamps. Crusty but functional Campagnolo bar end shifters poking out the end of those ugly bars...
• Cracked jockey wheels on the Pat 73 rear derailleur, of course.
• Have yet to clean the frame and test the paint to see if faded areas will un-fade with a light polish compound. Winter hours in the basement beckon!

Andy_K 

Those Phil hubs could be a good case for chrome spray paint. I've got some that doesn't look like chrome but would pass for anodized aluminum. On the hubs it would probably stay looking reasonably nice.

I really like Module E rims. Your replacement wheels sound great.

I'm not sure I've ever used a saddle I liked less than the Unicanitor. I hear some people like them.

Trying to gather 1973-or earlier Campy components would be a fun way to spend a lot of money. I mostly did that with my '73 DeRosa. I ended up buying an entire bike to get the right brakes.

Reynolds 531 

You cant cold set to 135. The stay bridges will probably break before it takes a cold set. The Colnago tapered stays and construction defy this. It will go right back to 126.

I have pics of pushing to 165 and chickening out, but I can't find them.

I usually just find an Ultra 6 and run with it.

Reynolds 531 

Phil hubs soaked in Oxalic Acid.

repechage

consider the bearing seals.
I am not sure what to do, the plating was thin and marginal.
I have read about how the flanges were assembled. But I would have to reference again regarding press or thread on
there was a change as I recall from the first version and the examples shown here which look '74- or later
maybe the drive side rear flange threaded on and the others pressed?

Reynolds 531 

Take them apart first, silly!

Edit: Not the flanges, just replace the bearings, and clean everything up while it is apart. BMX websites have excellent tutorials for using Oxalic Acid to clean things up. I have bought (several) rusty Colnago that nobody wanted, and made them shine.