MarcusT

Hello. Was finally able to find my winter project. This is an ooold folding bike. First thing I'd like to do is remove the chain guard, but it seems welded together. The only screws I see are on the rear holding it to the chain stay Is there a way to remove the guard without destroying it?



I appreciate the help

C9H13N 

I’d guess you need to remove the drive side crank arm and then remove the round silver part of the chain guard. Then you should be able to see what’s holding the rest of the guard on, maybe the bottom bracket fixed cup.

disclaimer: I’ve never taken apart a chain guard like yours.

merziac

@MarcusT

I hope you have a very good cotter pin press/tool and are an absolute expert with it.

If not, I implore you to find someone who is and be damn sure that is the case.

It would be a travesty if that chain guard were to be damaged at all.

And we need many more pics, backstory, etc, etc. plz.

nlerner

The pie plate or crankarm cover is likely press fit and can be pried off with a small screwdriver. You’ll likely see a bolt attaching it to the frame under there.

markk900

On my Paff the front of the chain guard is held in place by the fixed cup. That is a wonderful chainguard so be careful not to damage it! And yeah, more backstory and pics of the bike…

Schweinhund

Please be careful with your removal, some of those are soldered together

juvela

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+1 to the above.


the silver disc surrounding the head of the drive side crank arm is press/snap fit to the chainguard - much like the hubcap on an automobile

the tip of a screwdriver blade should be adequate to pop it off

it is common on italian manufactured cycles with a chainguard for the fixed bottom bracket cup to be used as a point of retention

if you lack a fixed cup tool it is possible to inexpensively create a homemade compression type one with a large bolt, nuts and washers from the hardware store

the cup is right hand threaded so you will want to remove it by turning counter-clockwise

the likely manufacturer of the chainguard is the the Mazzucchelli firm



best wishes with your project and please keep us posted on the progress...


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juvela

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addendum(b) -

forgot to mention above:

if you lack access to a tool for crank cotter pins the removal and mounting operations can both be accomplished with the aid of a c-clamp as here -



take care that all is in good alignment prior to commencing the administration of pressure


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MarcusT

I was able to do a work around. Pulled the crank, and bottom bracket without touching the guard , the disc was removed easily enough. Yes the front of the guard was held on with the drive side bottom bracket cup/ring and could not get good leverage with the wrench I had.
Getting the chain back on required some dexterity, but all good in the end.
Cotter pin removal was a piece of cake with the C-clamp method. Worked like a charm.
This won't be a full restoration., It is for a friend's daughter who is taking it with her to school. So better to leave it rough looking to not make it a prime target for thieves. Just want to make sure it is mechanically sound

Thanks for the input

merziac

Fantastic, great work, well done.

Hopefully she will be diligent with security, this is a gem.

Can we have a DS pic of the whole bike plz?

juvela

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appears name of marque stamped into chainguard but cannot quite make it out...


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MarcusT

Waiting on parts, once complete , will post

MarcusT

It is surreal how some are so taken with this bike. Known as a Graziella, these are the most common bikes you find parked at train stations and used in beach towns.
One can literally find hundreds for sale (used) and unless in original, mint condition, commonly sell for 20-60 euro.
Of course being in another continent, it is easy to see how some bikes can be much rarer.

Pompiere

This caught my interest because I'm working on a similar bike for my wife. It is a Neroa, made in Japan for domestic sale. It has a front basket with dual headlights and a plastic skirt guard over the rear wheel. The biggest obstacle has been finding new tires. The original tires are marked 22x1 3/4 with no other markings except the maker's name, Riken. I measured the rim (per Sheldon's instructions) and they appear to be 501 mm bead seat diameter. I tried a 24 inch/507 mm kid's mountain bike tire and it falls right off. The closest I have found is a 37-501 wheelchair tire. Although narrower than what I have now, that might be my only option. What size tire is on your bike?

MarcusT

24 x 1.75, a common size for that style of bike
Amazon for yours: https://www.amazon.com/CATAZER-Bicyc...1ZQ&th=1&psc=1

Pompiere

The local bike shop had some of those. 22x1.75 would not even go on the rim. The bead seat is 457 mm.

juvela

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Graziella is a marque belonging to the Teodoro Carnielli company

juvenile and tandem folders were also produced under this name

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the image below illustrates how the fixed bottom bracket cup can be employed to hold in place a bracket for chainguard mounting -
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members of the Mercier professional racing team power a Graziella folding triplet through the streets of Cologne in June of 1965 -



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Graziella Tuttadoro of 1966

complete with dynamo lighting system, Huret cyclometer & panniers -

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catalogue page of MCMLXVI -

[Tuttadoro images courtesy of Tonton forum]

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MarcusT

That's some bad luck. There is also a bike maker here who likes to use odd sized components.

MarcusT

I decided to replace both wheels. The wheel rear was in bad shape. I was able to restore the bearings and freewheel, but the spokes were noodles, 2 were broken and several nipples seized. Front wheel is doable.
I found a great package deal on Amzn. Both wheels, freewheel, tires, tubes, rim tape for 60 euro. So complete replacement was a matter of economics. A rear wheel, freewheel, tires, tubes and tape would have cost the same.

Keeping with making the bike unattractive to thieves, does anyone have any suggestions how to make the new rims and tires look old?

dweenk 

I would go with paint. A bit of red primer spray for the rims, and some white brushed on the the sidewalls in random places for the tires. You will of course have to scuff it a bit to make it appear to be natural and not applied.