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1980s Proctor Road Bike

Old 01-13-23, 05:25 PM
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VanCityNovice
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1980s Proctor Road Bike

Hi everyone,

I scooped up this 1980s Proctor today and I'm looking for some opinions on it. I've crept around the forum looking for details but they're a bit sparse.

The tubing is 531c with a 531 fork and Campagnolo dropouts, and it's been built up with full Campagnolo Triomphe except for the rear derailleur, which has been replaced with a Shimano one. The serial number stamped at the bottom is 274.

My main concern is that the paint is in very poor condition. It is bubbling, cracked, and scratched all over the bike. I bought it with the intention of passing it along to a close friend, but I am thinking about getting it powdercoated or repainted before I do so. Would that be a mistake? If not, where might I find replacement decals for the bike once the repaint is finished?

Thanks in advance!










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Old 01-13-23, 05:40 PM
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If you really want to preserve the bike, a repaint is probably necessary. I redid a frame that arrived in similar condition, and I documented the bare frame very well in this thread, where you can see what kind of rust pitting is likely taking place under that paint.

Velocals used to be a good source for decals, but they closed up shop earlier this month. They left a page of links to other potential sources, though (scroll to the bottom): https://velocals.com/
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Old 01-13-23, 05:49 PM
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It looks like a nice bike. I always start with the attitude that I'll touch it up and see how it goes, especially with a bike like this were decals and other original features may be good to keep in place. If the touch up doesn't go well you can always repaint. I will also admit that it does have some rust under those bubbles and you will need some patience to sand it, and brush on new paint. It may require that you first start with a primer, then color and the a second and even a third application of color. And then sand and polish it to get the finish to look more uniform.

It looks like solid (non-metallic) red which may be relatively easy to match. I like Testors paint for touch ups because it is enamel. I have also used Rustolem, Again because it is enamel it is easy to work with. I always have a jar of paint thinner handy for cleaning the brush. So, a half hour here and there, and you will eventually get there if you go the touch up route.

I have gotten better at this over time, but I'm still not an expert. My latest touch up is no museum piece, but a bike to ride.
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Old 01-13-23, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by noobinsf
If you really want to preserve the bike, a repaint is probably necessary. I redid a frame that arrived in similar condition, and I documented the bare frame very well in this thread, where you can see what kind of rust pitting is likely taking place under that paint.

Velocals used to be a good source for decals, but they closed up shop earlier this month. They left a page of links to other potential sources, though (scroll to the bottom): https://velocals.com/
Thanks for the inspiration. I think I may follow in your footsteps and strip and paint this one myself.
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Old 01-13-23, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Velo Mule
It looks like a nice bike. I always start with the attitude that I'll touch it up and see how it goes, especially with a bike like this were decals and other original features may be good to keep in place. If the touch up doesn't go well you can always repaint. I will also admit that it does have some rust under those bubbles and you will need some patience to sand it, and brush on new paint. It may require that you first start with a primer, then color and the a second and even a third application of color. And then sand and polish it to get the finish to look more uniform.

It looks like solid (non-metallic) red which may be relatively easy to match. I like Testors paint for touch ups because it is enamel. I have also used Rustolem, Again because it is enamel it is easy to work with. I always have a jar of paint thinner handy for cleaning the brush. So, a half hour here and there, and you will eventually get there if you go the touch up route.

I have gotten better at this over time, but I'm still not an expert. My latest touch up is no museum piece, but a bike to ride.
I've experimented with Testors before and I've gotten pretty good results. I do feel that this frame may be a bit beyond repair though, so I'm most likely going to get it refinished. Thanks for replying!
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Old 01-14-23, 07:10 AM
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Prior to stripping the paint, take some good, straight-on photos of the decals. In the event you can't find them ready made, you will have a starting point to recreate them later.
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Old 01-14-23, 03:16 PM
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Dremel at the rust bubbling, treat with rust converter, then touch up with Testors. I've had worse and did these steps. I love patina, but I hate rust.

I have multiple 600 sets in my bin, so I'd rebuild it with 600.
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Old 01-14-23, 03:36 PM
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Think hard before you do a repaint.Proctor decals may not be easy to find. Great bike,i had one Proctor but it was not my size. Built by Brad Proctor in Edmonton i believe.
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Old 01-14-23, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by garryg
Think hard before you do a repaint.Proctor decals may not be easy to find. Great bike,i had one Proctor but it was not my size. Built by Brad Proctor in Edmonton i believe.
Do you have any pictures? I'd love to see it.
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Old 01-14-23, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101
Dremel at the rust bubbling, treat with rust converter, then touch up with Testors. I've had worse and did these steps. I love patina, but I hate rust.

I have multiple 600 sets in my bin, so I'd rebuild it with 600.
I know this isn't the appraisal thread, but are the bits on the bike worth anything? They're not in the best shape but I'm generally aware of the desirability of Campy stuff.
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Old 01-14-23, 06:35 PM
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Proctor Townsend

Try this google search and you'll find many references to Proctor and Proctor Townsend frames and bikes:

proctor townsend site:bikeforums.net

I believe that Cyclomondo has Procktor Townsend decals but not Procktor.

Good luck.

Brad
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Old 01-14-23, 07:11 PM
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I think that colorscheme and those decals are extremely cool and second just touching it up, or atleast scrape a few areas to decide how bad it is. Powder you would probably lose detail on the lugs and pantoing. Proper paint job would be expensive. It's a rider right?

Before you do anything serious I suggest you get it riding and have your friend ride it some. You want to know if it fits them well, how the fit might be changed, how they might want to modify it, and if they even like how it rides before you restore it for them or do a full overhaul. Whether they want a more correct campy sex bike or something that brakes well and has hill gears. Maybe even keep the rack.

If the bb is pitted I have had good success installing those campy cranks on a 73mm mtb JIS bb, and using spacers to get the necessary asymmetry. The correct replacement could be difficult to find or very expensive. It is a gorgeous crank and the wide shimano rear (could go wider) can eek out some reasonable hill gears. They may also want rear indexing, or better brakes. Levers with hoods or hoods for those levers should be on the agenda.
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Old 01-14-23, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by VanCityNovice
I know this isn't the appraisal thread, but are the bits on the bike worth anything? They're not in the best shape but I'm generally aware of the desirability of Campy stuff.
​​​​​​https://www.benscycle.com/campagnolo...__153-228-17/p
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Old 01-15-23, 08:13 AM
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-----

this looks like a very nice bicycle you found for your friend

appears to date from the 1983-84 time

am with others above that always make an effort to conserve rather than redo when reasonable

from what can be seen in images posted the blistering is coming from below rather than outer to inner

in such cases it tends to be due to poor preparation rather than how stored/exposure to the elements

be aware that if you retain the original finish you may see the process of blistering continue forward...

-----

Last edited by juvela; 01-16-23 at 05:23 PM. Reason: spellin'
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Old 01-15-23, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevensb
Try this google search and you'll find many references to Proctor and Proctor Townsend frames and bikes:

proctor townsend site:bikeforums.net

I believe that Cyclomondo has Procktor Townsend decals but not Procktor.

Good luck.

Brad
Thanks for the resources, I'll check them out!
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Old 01-15-23, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Soody
I think that colorscheme and those decals are extremely cool and second just touching it up, or atleast scrape a few areas to decide how bad it is. Powder you would probably lose detail on the lugs and pantoing. Proper paint job would be expensive. It's a rider right?

Before you do anything serious I suggest you get it riding and have your friend ride it some. You want to know if it fits them well, how the fit might be changed, how they might want to modify it, and if they even like how it rides before you restore it for them or do a full overhaul. Whether they want a more correct campy sex bike or something that brakes well and has hill gears. Maybe even keep the rack.

If the bb is pitted I have had good success installing those campy cranks on a 73mm mtb JIS bb, and using spacers to get the necessary asymmetry. The correct replacement could be difficult to find or very expensive. It is a gorgeous crank and the wide shimano rear (could go wider) can eek out some reasonable hill gears. They may also want rear indexing, or better brakes. Levers with hoods or hoods for those levers should be on the agenda.
This is great advice. I had them try it out today and they said the prefer the fit of their old bike, so now I need to decide what to do with it. I'm torn between parting it out or attempting to find a new RD, repainting it, and sending it along to the next owner to enjoy.

I've heard Dia-Compe 204 hoods fit well on these levers, so I'll be looking to get some of those soon.
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Old 01-15-23, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by juvela
-----

this looks like a very nice bicycle you found for your friend

appears to date from the 1983-84 time

am with others above that always make an effort to conserve rather than redo when reasonable

from what can be seen in images posted the blistering is coming from below rather than outer to inner

in such cases in tends to be due to poor preparation rather than how stored/exposure to the elements

be aware that if you retain the original finish you may see the process of blistering continue forward...

-----
Thanks for the reply and advice! I think the blistering has advanced quite far, and I'm concerned that it will continue. I think would like to prioritize the preservation of the frame and fork rather than the original finish, but it is a tricky situation to navigate.
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Old 01-15-23, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by VanCityNovice
I've heard Dia-Compe 204 hoods fit well on these levers, so I'll be looking to get some of those soon.
The Triomphe levers should take Nuovo Record hoods. Somaís NR hoods are readily available and priced right, I have them on one set of NR levers and Iím totally happy with them.
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Old 01-15-23, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by C9H13N
The Triomphe levers should take Nuovo Record hoods. Somaís NR hoods are readily available and priced right, I have them on one set of NR levers and Iím totally happy with them.
Ah, that's great to know. I ordered from them recently but I'm in Canada so duties were a tough pill to swallow. Maybe I can find a local bike shop willing to bring them in.
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Old 01-16-23, 05:11 PM
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My advice is to move away from the ocean.

Proctor Townsend bicycles were created for the dry prairies where the paint will last.
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Old 01-16-23, 05:15 PM
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Any other Proctor owners out there?


more proctors
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Old 01-16-23, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by VanCityNovice
This is great advice. I had them try it out today and they said the prefer the fit of their old bike, so now I need to decide what to do with it. I'm torn between parting it out or attempting to find a new RD, repainting it, and sending it along to the next owner to enjoy.

I've heard Dia-Compe 204 hoods fit well on these levers, so I'll be looking to get some of those soon.
Is it your size? If not, and you are looking to find it a new home, you could probably do a bit of chipping of the rusty paint bubbles then some evaporust soaks to get rid or the remaining rust. I think it would take some pretty decently available paint color.

You could probably offset the cost by selling off the parts and take your time cleaning up the frame.
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Old 01-16-23, 07:29 PM
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If you decide to go down the resto way, before touching anything, get some tracing paper tape it on the frame, and trace the decals with a pencil, then measure everything up on the orig decal (overall and individual width+height of text and letters, line thickness etc...), just in case the guys in the other proctor thread cannot help through Cycle Logic. The more detailed you can trace them, the easier it will be to recreate them. For your luck, unlike with many fancy decals, these look like printed on white vinyl, which is a big pro if a budget recreation is to be done. But of course nothing beats a NOS leftover set.
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Old 01-17-23, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Is it your size? If not, and you are looking to find it a new home, you could probably do a bit of chipping of the rusty paint bubbles then some evaporust soaks to get rid or the remaining rust. I think it would take some pretty decently available paint color.

You could probably offset the cost by selling off the parts and take your time cleaning up the frame.
I think I'm going to go down this route. I've got the bike stripped down and I'm shopping around to see who can sandblast it for me at a reasonable price. I've gotta get these parts out of the door before I get started on that process though.
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Old 01-17-23, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lattz
If you decide to go down the resto way, before touching anything, get some tracing paper tape it on the frame, and trace the decals with a pencil, then measure everything up on the orig decal (overall and individual width+height of text and letters, line thickness etc...), just in case the guys in the other proctor thread cannot help through Cycle Logic. The more detailed you can trace them, the easier it will be to recreate them. For your luck, unlike with many fancy decals, these look like printed on white vinyl, which is a big pro if a budget recreation is to be done. But of course nothing beats a NOS leftover set.
I'll definitely give this a try once I'm ready to get the frame repainted. I haven't done a graphics project in a while so I'll see how that goes!
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