Question about a Huret Challenger Rear Derailleur
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Question about a Huret Challenger Rear Derailleur
Hi all:
As I've mentioned in other posts, I recently got a '74 Raleigh Competition from a self-styled bike mechanic who, I'm learning, made some odd (or time-saving) choices. Just discovered another one.
The bike has a Huret Challenger rear derailleur rather than the Huret Jubilee that would have come with it. All well and good; the Challenger is kinda beat up but it seems to shift well. HOWEVER unlike every other rear derailleur I've had on any other bike, the derailleur doesn't pivot on the hanger to facilitate wheel removal. I had a devil of a time getting the rear wheel off to replace it. Am I correct that the derailleur should pivot out of the way to remove/replace the wheel, and there's something screwy about how this thing was bolted on? It's my first experience with a Huret derailleur and a Huret dropout.
As I've mentioned in other posts, I recently got a '74 Raleigh Competition from a self-styled bike mechanic who, I'm learning, made some odd (or time-saving) choices. Just discovered another one.
The bike has a Huret Challenger rear derailleur rather than the Huret Jubilee that would have come with it. All well and good; the Challenger is kinda beat up but it seems to shift well. HOWEVER unlike every other rear derailleur I've had on any other bike, the derailleur doesn't pivot on the hanger to facilitate wheel removal. I had a devil of a time getting the rear wheel off to replace it. Am I correct that the derailleur should pivot out of the way to remove/replace the wheel, and there's something screwy about how this thing was bolted on? It's my first experience with a Huret derailleur and a Huret dropout.
#2
Full Member
It should pivot. Most have a fastening bolt with a locknut or Huret also made an "expanding" mounting bolt. This type of bolt has a set screw inside it that you tighten from the opposite (wheel) side of the dropout. So you'd adjust the bolt for the desired amount of play, then lock it in place using the set screw. On the Challenger and Success, there is an intermediate part that goes between the derailleur knuckle and the dropout/hanger. One variety for Huret dropouts, the other for Campagnolo pattern dropouts. If you are missing any of these parts, I may have them. It is just too cold to go out in the garage and look right now.
Last edited by daka; 01-30-23 at 11:20 AM.
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#3
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A Trek 710 that I bought at a swap meet had this same issue with it's Huret Duopar rear derailer.
Apparently, the dropout stop adapter piece had broken, requiring that the bolt be tightened hard against the derailer's B-knuckle and the dropout itself.
So, for wheel removal, I have to remove the QR lever entirely, then wiggle the axle out of it's captivity to the bike.
(alternately, I could loosen the 6mm socket-head bolt each time)
This really slows any puncture repair, but the derailer functions and shifts perfectly across the Dura-Ace 7s freewheel.
15 years on and I have yet to find or fabricate the needed repair part, and this is among the best-shifting friction-shift drivetrains I've ever tried.
Apparently, the dropout stop adapter piece had broken, requiring that the bolt be tightened hard against the derailer's B-knuckle and the dropout itself.
So, for wheel removal, I have to remove the QR lever entirely, then wiggle the axle out of it's captivity to the bike.
(alternately, I could loosen the 6mm socket-head bolt each time)
This really slows any puncture repair, but the derailer functions and shifts perfectly across the Dura-Ace 7s freewheel.
15 years on and I have yet to find or fabricate the needed repair part, and this is among the best-shifting friction-shift drivetrains I've ever tried.
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#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
It should pivot. Most have a fastening bolt with a locknut or Huret also made an "expanding" mounting bolt. This type of bolt has a set screw inside it that you tighten from the opposite (wheel) side of the dropout. So you'd adjust the bolt for the desired amount of play, then lock it in place using the set screw. On the Challenger and Success, there is an intermediate part that goes between the derailleur knuckle and the dropout/hanger. One variety for Huret dropouts, the other for Campagnolo pattern dropouts. If you are missing any of these parts, I may have them. It is just too cold to go out in the garage and look right now.
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
A Trek 710 that I bought at a swap meet had this same issue with it's Huret Duopar rear derailer.
Apparently, the dropout stop adapter piece had broken, requiring that the bolt be tightened hard against the derailer's B-knuckle and the dropout itself.
So, for wheel removal, I have to remove the QR lever entirely, then wiggle the axle out of it's captivity to the bike.
(alternately, I could loosen the 6mm socket-head bolt each time)
This really slows any puncture repair, but the derailer functions and shifts perfectly across the Dura-Ace 7s freewheel.
15 years on and I have yet to find or fabricate the needed repair part, and this is among the best-shifting friction-shift drivetrains I've ever tried.
Apparently, the dropout stop adapter piece had broken, requiring that the bolt be tightened hard against the derailer's B-knuckle and the dropout itself.
So, for wheel removal, I have to remove the QR lever entirely, then wiggle the axle out of it's captivity to the bike.
(alternately, I could loosen the 6mm socket-head bolt each time)
This really slows any puncture repair, but the derailer functions and shifts perfectly across the Dura-Ace 7s freewheel.
15 years on and I have yet to find or fabricate the needed repair part, and this is among the best-shifting friction-shift drivetrains I've ever tried.